Marrakesh – The Miracle of Water (in Berber Lands)

While in the Jardin Majorelle, an iconic attraction of Marrakesh, I picked up a book called the Miracle of Water. Apart from giving me a great name for this blog post, the book also offered an insight on the establishment of Marrakesh an arid city surrounded by the Atlas Mountains. The book details the way that the Berbers moulded the natural environment to provided water to the desert, molding a livable environment out of a harsh landscape. From their works emerged a city full of gardens, palaces and caravansarai. This luxury attracted the greedy eye of many would-be conquerors making the wealthy caravan town a prized possession of many imperial ambitions.

Welcome to the Petra (ish) of Morroco, where the inhabitants relationship with water mirrors that of the isolated Nabatean city.

Table of Contents

• Geography
• A Brief History
  • Almoravids, Almohads and the Zanata Decline
  • Saadians, Moulay Ismail and the Alawites
  • Colonial French and the Modern Era
• Transportation
• Where to Stay?
• Exploring Marrakesh
  • The Ville Nouvelle
    • Gueliz
    • Menara
    • Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Mansion
  • The Medina, Jewish Quarter and the Kasbah
    • The Koutoubia
    • Jemaa el-fna Market, Snakes and the Grand Balcon du Café Glacier
    • Ben Youssef Mosque and the Ben Youssef School
    • The Tanners Quarters
    • Almoravid Koubba and the Museum of Marrakesh
    • The Souks and the Café Des Épices
    • Le Jardin Secret et Le Café Arabe
    • Saadien Tombs, Moulay el Yazid Mosque and the Kasbah
    • El Badii Palace and the Place des Ferblantiers
    • Jewish Quarter and Cemetery
    • Bahia Palace
• Where/What to Eat and Drink
• Scams and Staying Safe
• Conclusion

Geography

Lying in the Tensift River valley, with the backdrop of the High Atlas mountains in the distance, Marrakesh is a curiosity. In the winter the massifs gleam with snow, their grey caps covered in the white substance all the while the city sits amidst a harsh environment, an oasis in the desert.

A Brief History

Although accepted by Berbers tribes since the Neolithic Era, Marrakesh would see its ascendancy tied to the fate of various Islamic dynasties.

Almoravids, Almohads and the Zanata Decline

Unlike some of the more ancient coastal settlements, the city of Marrakesh would not be founded by the Berber The Almoravids until 1070 A.D. Their capital, it quickly developed as a trading center for sub-Saharan Africa and the Maghreb. The architecture of the city became an interesting and unique mix of Andalusian moorrish and sub-Saharan African styles.

In 1125, the influential preacher Ibn Tumart founded the Almohad dynasty in the mountains. This radical preached against the Almoravids taking territory from them before his son Abd al-Mu’min would take over the city in 1147. Purging the city of its previous Almoravid inhabitants they would rebuild the city in their image constructing the Kutubiyya Mosque, one of the most famous structures in the ancient Muslim world. Previous Almoravids religious structures were destroyed as the religious reforms of the Almohads were enacted. In addition they would construct many gardens (a staple of the city) such as Menara by crating a complex system of reservoirs to capture the water from the mountains. A series of dynastic clashes would paralyze the kingdom over the 13th century and the city was capture by the Zenata tribe in 1269. The city then declined and lost its stature to Fez in the north. It would not recover until the 16th century when it was once again made capital by a new powerful dynasty of kings.

Saadians, Moulay Ismail and the Alawites

The Saadian dynasty knew how to party! Oh so I think… what is known to us is that they established lavish palaces from the profits of the newly reestablished Caravan trade. This trade was created from the Saadians renewal of relations and expansion into sub-Saharan Africa including present day Mali and Niger. Old monuments were given new life and the city was once again the capital of Saadian Morocco.

During the 17th century, Moulay Ismail took over the city and stripped it of it spender once again, raiding the Saadian palaces for his new ones in his capital of Meknes. Despite this the city continued to be an important center. It also developed as a pilgrimage hub for sufism being home to Morocco’s seven patron saints.

Colonial French and the Modern Era

The modern Era’s truly begins with the arrival of the colonial French. Under revolt in the early 20th century. In the ensuring lawlessness Dr. Mauchamp, a French doctor, was murdered and the French used it as a pretext to invade capturing the city in 1912. The French installed a local, T’hami El Glaoui “Lord of the Atlas” as their governor (pasha), and his rule lasted until 1956 – a remarkable 44 years. This rule is widely seen as a period of corruption due to his lavish lifestyle. Like in other cities, Marrakesh had its own colonial Ville Nouvelle developed outside of the old town.

Marrakesh was one of the cities of benefit from independence, soon becoming one of the, if not the, leading center of Moroccan tourism and fashion, becoming an important stop of the famed Hippy Trail.  Yves Saint Laurent, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Jean-Paul Getty all spent time here during this period. This economic boom has also cause the population of the city to balloon, with no signs of slowing down. Marrakesh is chaos, but beautifully so!

Transportation

Not only is Marrakesh an important international hub for the aviation industry, it also possesses a massive train station. Located in the heart of the Ville Nouvelle, it is many travelers first impression of the city and is a hub worthy of the city it represent. If anything it is the opposite of Marrakesh. Clean, orderly and well maintained. As for the airport, it is located near the Menara gardens and as such is not too far from the city’s core.

Where to Stay?

During my stay in the Marrakesh, I stayed in the old Medina. The principle type of accommodation in the Moroccan old town is the riad. I would also recommend staying at one of these establishments authentic experience. One of the staples of Moroccan hospitality these guesthouses located in the narrow alleys of the old town are unassuming from the outside by fabulous in the interior.  Constructed with Moorish motifs, the are usually built around an inner courtyard and usually include a fountain or a water feature. Staff is usually on had to cook meals or to offer other services in the hotel styled ones. Yet for budget travelers like me, these riads exist as cheap hostels which are a great way to meet people. These riads are numerous as many underwent renovation in the 1960’s wave of hippies tourism.

For those with more western taste modern hotels in Ville Nouvelle or super ultras luxury “palatial” hotels with their own hammams (baths)

Exploring Marrakesh

Like many Moroccan cities redeveloped by the French protectorate, Marrakesh is at a time both Modern and deeply archaic. For all of its touristic activity today at its hard to believe that until 1867, Christians were not allowed to enter the city without permission from the sultan. This a city of contrast poverty and wealthy, the past and the present… and it is absolutely worth a exploring. This city pulses with an energy unmatched by its neighbor’s with its central arteries and public spaces filled at all times of the day and just as much so at dusk.

The Ville Nouvelle

Located to the north and west of the old town, this was the section of the city that the French Protectorate created for foreigners and administrators. Today it serves as a hub for trendy middle and upper class Moroccans as well as many tourists. 

Gueliz

The chic home of many of many of Marrakesh’s best restaurants and cafes, this modern district is built around a giant roundabout where avenues Mohammed VI and Mohammed V meet. From here streets radiate out in every direction, from space looking much like you would picture a spiderweb. Not only is the area heavily built up, home to many hotels and residential structure but it is well lit and clean. It is also home to the train station, just a five minute walk west from its center.

Beyond the dense central area, a second low density area exists holding many high end hotels. Built in the area behind the Koutoubia these structures are almost palatial in scope.

Menara

Although not technically part of the Ville Nouvelle, this sprawling garden complex borders it. Intrinsically linked to the history of the city, it was conceived under the Almohad Caliphate ruler Abd al-Mu’min in the 12th century. The garden is orientated around a reservoir and a stunning 19th century pavilion at the view of the atlas mountains to the south dominates its landscape.

The complex irrigation system of these gardens has led the gardens to dry up as the gardens saw periods of neglect under certain rulers.

Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Mansion

One of the most iconic structures in Modern Marrakesh, this property is located in the north of the city outside of the Medina in a modern section of the city. Constructed by French Orientalist artist Louis Majorelle, it served as his home from 1923 until his divorce in the 1950’s. The structure was inspired by the colourful tiles and mosaics of the city and is painted with a distinct shade of cobalt blue named after the artist. Do be warned, this access property is much more then other sites in Morocco.

Note: Be prepared to pay European prices for entry. Furthermore if you wish to visit the Berber museum and extra ticket is required.

Surrounding the property is a stunning garden, including his personal cactus collection found in front of the house. Developed over a period of almost forty years, this massive undertaking was his life’s work.

In the gardens you will find a memorial to the second owner of the house, the designer Yves Saint-Laurent. After the sale of the house it fell into disrepair, including the gardens. Mr. Saint Laurent would purchase the property in the 1980’s and would invest in the property to preserve it. His ashes are scattered in the gardens.

These gardens are bisected by Marjorelle blue water channels and fountains. Inserted below is a quick gallery of what you will see in the gardens.

Today the house and outlying buildings serve as museums and showrooms. The distinct blue house with its front facing fountains. If you purchased a ticket to visit the interior at the entrance, you will have the chance to visit the the Berber museum. Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed inside but I can say that they had a great hall that simulated the stary sky and explained how the Berbers used the sky to navigate the desert. St. Laurent being a fashion chain also has a great deal of Berber costumes, something that matches their interest in fashion. You will also find the museum shop here.

In the old studio you will find a museum of Islamic art and a little later a small cafe. Honestly, just enjoy the gardens they are a worthy reprieve of the Moroccan heat

The Medina, Jewish Quarter and the Kasbah

The Koutoubia

The granddaddy of many similar towers such as Hassan II in Rabat and the Giralda in Sevilla, the Koutoubia was the home to the city’s first major mosque complex, the ruins of which can still be seen in the adjoining Koutoubia gardens today. It faces the Jemaa El Fna souq, the town market since time immemorial. It is considered to be at the very limit of the Medina as the French built their extensive network of roads around and radiating out from the mosque.

It was first constructed in 1147 by the Almohads post conquest from the Almoravids. Yet what you see today is a second version of the mosque, rebuilt in approximately 1158 with the iconic and detailed minaret tower completed sometime around 1195. The tower is 77 meters (253 ft) and is considered a sublime example of Almohad architecture and a symbol of the city. Like the adjoining market area serves as an important public places today where visitors can escape the chaos of the Medina.

Jemaa el-fna Market, Snakes and the Grand Balcon du Café Glacier

The beating heart of the city, the Jemaa El Fna souq has the distinction of always serving as the city market. This space will likely be your first impression of the city for better or for worse. The best place to observe the commotion from above is the famed Le Grand Balcon du Cafe Glaciers.

Long past its prime, you wont find any alcohol at this tourist hangout and consumption of a drink is obligatory, although the view is worth it for the price of a soda.

From here you get views of the Koutoubia oposite to the market.

As well as the market and the Medina skyline itself. During the day you will get a chance to observe the chaos below as touts work their game and the night market sets up. At night the square transforms into a sea of light and is even busier then during the day, especially at sunset!

Back down in the square your usual scams and tourist tramps apply but you will also have the change to interact with snake charmers and trained monkeys wearing funny suits.

Note: Beware of the snake charmers and animal handlers in the market. They will often try to drape the animals on you and ask exorbitant rates for a picture. Make sure you negotiate a price before you touch the animals. You need to be firm on this point as they are quite aggressive in their tactics.

At night the square transforms into a giant open street food market, including lots of delicious street meats. This is a tourist trap but is also a unique experience. There are plenty of vendors to chose from but the experience and price point will be similar.

The vendors can be quite aggressive and even rude if their tactics don’t work. Be prepared to keep moving if the vendor is too rude.

Ben Youssef Mosque and the Ben Youssef School

This religious complex, where Ben Youssef can be substituted fro Ibn Youssef, dates from the Almohad period and includes a 1070 A.D Almoravid mosque, the oldest in the city and a Madrassa (Islamic School). As such it is an essential piece of the Almoravid old town. The Almoravid Minbar from inside its walls can now be found at the Bhadi palace. All the while the adjoining madrassa was constructed in the 14th century during the reign of the Marinid dynasty of Sultans. What you see today is a 16th century Saadian reconstruction, although unfortunately the later was shut for renovations at the time of my visit.

The Tanners Quarters

Oh the smell of the tanneries… bring some mint they tell you! Yet I’ve always found this to be an exaggeration. The dye vats are stinky but not enough to scare me away. Although they do pale in comparisons to the Tanneries of Fez the Tanners quarter of Marrakesh is still impressive and worth a quick visit.

To get here you will have to navigate the confusing mess of streets of the Almoravid Koubba and the Ibn Youseff complex and head all the way west to the extent of the Medina.

Do beware this area is a hotbed for scam. Don’t follow anyone anywhere for any reason. It is all set up to force you into a shop to buy something. A peak through the building to the backyards will reveal the

And a peak inside will reveal the pressing and rolling process. Although this was all interesting, I would skip out if you have already visited Fez.

You will be able to find this raw leather drying on top of roofs. Much of the raw unrefined product not used in the shops are sent to the souk and sold in bulk rolls.

Almoravid Koubba and the Museum of Marrakesh

One of the must see areas of the medina, in fact it is located in its very heart, this public space is home the only surviving example of Almoravid architecture in Marrakesh and a fabulous palace turned museum. 

The Koubba (Qubba) dates from the 12th century. Built sometime before 1117 A.D, this strange tower like monument has almost been built over during the subsequent centuries. Known for its beautiful detailing and reliefs. Some scholars believe that it was part of the early Ben Youssef Mosque and may have been used for ritual cleanings before prayer. Today it has been re-exposed so it can be visited from the bottom up including the ruins of latrines and an old cistern!

The palace for its part once belonged to Al-Mnebhi, the Vizier to the Sultan and his favorite. Built at the very start of the 20th century, it was seized by the previously mentioned Pasha Thami El Glaoui when the former was out of the country serving as an ambassador. The autocratic French puppet ruler was ousted in 1956 when the country gained independence and the palace fell into disrepair.

When you first enter the palace via the yard take a look around. After entering the palace you will find portraits of what this courtyard as well as the rest of the building looked like before renovations at the turn of the millennia, when it underwent a 1997 renovation into a museum.

This museum now houses many items that one would find in an art or history museum with traditional items from the throughout country.

One of the first courtyards that you will enter near the start of the concourse is beautiful with the light filtering in from the glass roof. From here you will find side corridor leading to the palace basement.

Here you will find the remains of an old bathhouse styled room, in fact it was an old hammam with a beautiful roof and vaulted chambers, where art has been hung up to be viewed.

Past the courtyard you will find the incredible main hall of the palace with fine tile work, painted wooden details and detailed ribbed ceilings inside the chambers.

The Souks and the Café Des Épices

At the hear of Marrakesh is an ever growing monster called the Souk. This market is home to many raw goods found throughout the city as well as tourist trinkets. If you look closely you can even find a section dedicated to the Tanneries and their Marrakesh produced leather.

Much of the Souk is covered and is very typical of these types of markets. A dense network of crowded pedestrian passageways are linked together in a central cluster, enough to make one feel like they are in a labyrinth.

At the south-eastern tip of this complex is the Place des Epices, home to the famed Cafe des Epices. This well known public space is a grand contrast to the cramped bazaar.

An open air spice market, you will get a great view of the activities of merchants here from the Cafe. This is a popular destination for tourists.

Le Jardin Secret et Le Café Arabe

Located in Mouassine a Saadian district on the western side of the Media, this “secret garden” dates from the Saadian Dynasty. First constructed in the 16th century, it was abandoned in the 17th as the dynasty decline before being resurrected in the 19th century before once again being abandoned in 1934. The competing viziers that owned it during the 19th and 20th centuries have interesting tales of intrigue attached to them including poisonings, but you can read up on that on your own.

At the entrance you will find a pond with many turtles, but the real treat is around the corner…

Where a central central courtyard greets you with a beautiful colonnaded pavilion and a central fountain covered by a gazebo.

From here you can climb up into the palace (and up the tower if you pay more… a rip off if you ask me). From here you will have a great view of the garden and its plentiful citrus trees.

Finally, known for its Moroccan and Italian Cuisine, le Cafe Arab is located across the street from the Jardin Secret. This is one of the few places in the Medina that will sell alcohol and as such it is quite popular with ex-pats, who crowd its rooftop patio.

Saadien Tombs, Moulay el Yazid Mosque and the Kasbah

Located south of the central section of the Medina, the walled Kasbah is well worth a visit. Accessed via the Bab Agnaou gate or a series of smaller pedestrian gates, it is home to many Saadian era monuments. A Kasbah is another word for citadel, in this case created as an imperial district. The Kasbah was a walled area that contained the palaces of the Saadian dynasty while dissuading attack on the city.

What is essential to understand is that this area of the city was completely transformed by the Saadian dynasty. Although the rulers of Marrakesh resided in the the Kasbah built by the Almohads had been occupied since the 12th century. It was the Saadians that would leave the biggest mark starting with the ascension of Sultan Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib (1557-1574).

On your way in from the north make sure to check out the beautiful statues of an elephant and camel!

One of the fist monuments you will notice when entering the district is the Moulay el Yazid Mosque, with its minaret tower. Built as a challenger to the Kutubiyya Mosque, it was partially destroyed in a 16th century explosion and rebuilt by the Saadians. Unfortunately non-Muslims cannot visit. Three cheers for religious discrimination (yes I am being facetious)!

Honnestly, fuck the mosque I can’t enter! Behind it you will find a real gem… the Saadian tombs. It is tucked into a small walled courtyard in behind the mosque.

Upon entering you will get your first glimpse at the beautiful Islamic tombs, built flat to the ground and tiled over.

Yet the real beauty is on the interior chambers. Considered to be the high point of Moroccan architecture, the Saadian dynasty surely did not disappoint with these tombs. The incredibly ornate interiors are like nothing I’ve ever seen. There are individual mausoleums and smaller loggias depending on the statue of the person burred.

The most impressive of these pavilions is the Eastern Mausoleum. It is where Muhammad al-Sheikh, the fist Saadian sultan is laid to rest along with his descendants, also sultans. Meanwhile the western mausoleum is home to the fifth sultan.

Do beware these tombs were also used pre-Saadians, specifically the Marinids during the 14th century. Whereas the period most associated with the tombs is the 16th. There is even an Alaouite sultan interred here. Do notice the many citrus trees that dot the tombs.

Believe it or not the tombs were actually abandoned and subsequently forgotten about for centuries afterwards. The Alaouite sultan Moulay Isma’il, the founder the Saadian palaces, restricted access to the Saadian necropolis by sealing it off from most of the surrounding buildings. In 1917 they were “rediscovered” by the Service des Beaux-Arts, Antiquités et Monuments historiques (“Service of Fine Arts, Antiquities, and Historic Monuments”) of Morocco.

While walking through the Kasbah to the next set of Saadian ruins, the Badii Palace, you will be trapped between the Kasbah walls, offering you a chance to appreciate the complexity of the Saadian fortifications system.

El Badii Palace and the Place des Ferblantiers

After winding through the maze of Kasbah street, in an easterly direction, you will enter a public area in front of the the old Badii palace. This is the colonial era Place des Ferblantiers, this French plaza is actually a superior area to find quality goods then the massive bazaar at the center of the Medina. Here you will find many things including a smaller spice market and more importantly

The palace itself was funded by both trade and plunder and was constructed in a particularly fruitful time in Saadian rule . The sultan Ahmad al-Mansur al-Dhahabi (1578-1603) constructed the palace with a large ransom paid by the Portuguese after the Battle of the Three Kings in 1578. This ruler was also supplemented this income with funds derived from his large trading empire. In fact by this time the Saadians had conquered both Timbuktu and Gao in Mali allowing for the control of the rich trans-Saharan trade routes giving him access to gold but also to slaves. He also controlled the sugar trade, a major export to Europe and silk, copper and leather..

The work on the palace begun in 1578, and would continue throughout the Sultans rule. Although mostly completed by the 1580’s, he continued to order improvement until about 1602, a year before his death.

Upon entering the thick walled Saadian palace you will notice their ruined and denuded condition. The Alaouite sultan Moulay Isma’il ordered its renowned marble and to be reused for palaces in Meknes. Many of its materials now adorn buildings throughout Morocco. Just as a side note this is by far my favourite attraction in the city. This is abundantly clean as you move throughout the massive complex. Built around a central pool your exploration will take you through a tour of all the surrounding ruins. The fist of which features a chimney now home to many birds and barren walls.

Underneath it is an old vaulted passageway, converted into an photography gallery.

Yet beyond the bare wall, you can still spot the tiling used in the complex especially in old fountain or bath areas. In the pictures below you can see northwest side of the palace, which contained residential quarters where foreign ambassadors may have stayed.

Upon emerging into the courtyard you will have a chance to see the exposed piping/trench system that once fed the palace. Saadian architecture featured many gardens, pools and fountains (with jets of water), requiring lots of water to maintain. This palace was modeled on the Andalusian architecture of the Alhambra, in Granada – like all Saadian architecture. More of this underground infrastructure can be seen at the demolished eastern pavilion. In the western pavilion, Qubba al-Khamsiniya, you will find the former throne room.

The large central pool stands at the center (of course!) of the complex and is rectangular in shape.

Four central gardens adjoin this pool and the palace is arranged in a rational, symmetrical, fashion.

Today these sunken gardens consist of citrus and various flowers.

The main palace area is the the reception palace where guests would be entertained. Gold, onyx and Italian marble colonnades adorned it, showing the wealth and power of the Sultan.

Behind the reception palace An annex area on the south side of the palace, probably including the remains of a bathhouse (hammam). It now houses the 12th-century Almoravid minbar that once stood in the Kutubiyya Mosque.

This is a really neat area and is away from much of the tourists. I recommend walking around it as iy is some of the best preserved in terms of mosaics.

At the end of your tour you will be able to climb up to get a view of the whole complex including the previously mentioned eastern pavilion

Jewish Quarter and Cemetery

Continuing east from the palace you will find the old Jewish quarter, now unfortunately emptied of its Israelite population. Chased away by unfavourable and anti-Semitic government policies after Moroccan independence, Jews once played an integral part in the life of the county. It is weird to have people try to sell you on tours of the area when you know how some of the people living here were treated in the post colonial period.

The main attraction in the neighbourhood is the well preserved Slat Al Azama Synagogue. Home to the Sephardic Jews, many who come to Morroco after they were expelled from Spain in 1492.

This synagogue is not as old as others in morrocoy but the Jewish quarter dates from 1557. It is built around a central courtyard with the synagogue in side hall. Inside the courtyard of the synagogue is a good exhibit on Jewish life in Morocco. Of the 300 000 Jews that once lived in Morocco only 2000-2500 remain. At least this restored synagogue will give visitors the chance to experience what was once the vibrant Jewish life that existed here.

Just east of the synagogue you will find the Jewish Miâara Cemetery. Like the Synagogue you can enter for a small fee. Many of the graves are in French, the language of choice for many Moroccan Jews and a connection to the French Colonial Era but just as many are in Hebrew.

Honestly, this is just a pleasant reprove from the busy streets of the city. Although the area saw a large Sheperdi Jew infusion, after 1492, the area has been used for limited Jewish burials since the 12th century.

It is one of the largest in the country and has over 20 000 graves. The Jewish community maintains this site and I recommend leaving a donation.

Bahia Palace

This is one of the strangest attractions in the city, but certainly worth your time. Located just north of the Badi Palace and Jewish Quarter, it is not a palace per say but a complex of mini palaces built in 1859 by Si Musa, the grand vizier of the Alaouite sultan Muhammad ibn Abd al-Rahman. It was continued by his son Si Ba Ahmed ibn Musa, grand vizier of Sultan Moulay Abdelaziz between 1894 and 1900. To access it you must walk down a long walled corridor to the entrance, it may seem hidden and just like the Saadian tombs locals will try to mislead you in the wrong direction.

The compound is a labyrinth, completed in ad hoc fashion as the needs of the owners changed, it would be easy to get lost within its endless courtyards and gardens over a two hectare footprint.

The fist courtyard is more of a portico. It is modest but it really ramps up from here.

When you come past the doors you will enter the second courtyard, a lavish garden with a reception hall. In this first courtyard you will have a chance to see the wall details that the palace is known for. Ceilings are made of finely carved wooden ribs, mosaics floors and carved stone details above doors. This is usually referred to as the Petit Riad.

The reception hall is just as impressive with its large tiled firepits and painted ribbed ceilings. This was the viziers council chamber!

After exiting the petit Riad, you will enter the Small Courtyard with its beautiful central fountain.

From the Small Courtyard you will emerge into the superb Grand Courtyard. This 30×50 meters area is the most impressive in the complex and will surely cause an impression.

The structure is decked out with Italian Carrara marble, carved wood and mosaics with 80 rooms worth of galleries what were once part of Ba Ahmed’s harem (the residences of his concubines). At the east end of this courtyard is the 20×8 meters Grand Hall with phenomenal decorations.

Off to the side you will find the Grand Riad, a beautiful residential area with a courtyard garden.

While exiting the portico look up and take in the detail of the ceiling.

This area is larger then the other garden courtyard and has some beautiful galleries.

Where/What to Eat and Drink

Although many of these items and places to drink have been previously mentioned, I will make a quick summary. If you wish to have a modern dining experience, you will find plenty of suitable places in Gueliz. In the medina, I recommend the night market, le Café des Epices and the Café Arab.

One of the few places that will sell you alcohol, le Café Arabe is a popular hangout. Morroco has some strange liquor laws and alcohol must be served with appetizers meaning be ready to eat, even if its just delicious Moroccan olives. If you like wine, Morroco has a treat for you… gray wine (vin gris). Almost a style of rosé, vin gris is made from red grapes but in a style that is associated with that of white wine practices. This wine is mostly created in the northern provinces around cities like Meknes. 

For those interested in something non alcoholic, I recommend the delicious Moroccan Mint Tea and Berber Tea.

Scams and Staying Safe

Although Morocco is a safe country, especially for tourists, it should be noted that it still has some risks. On the surface Marrakesh may not seem particularly safe but it is in fact not too bad in comparison to other centers such as Fez, Casablanca or Tangier (and even those are fine). With your head on a swivel and a little bit of common sense you can mitigate the worst of the city’s seedy underbelly. More of an issue here are the scams while most of the crime that happens in the city can be traced back to the Medina, with its tights alleyways and hidden driveways. Yet often not discussed are other more mundane dangers. Moroccan vehicular traffic is just as hectic as the rest of the Arab world, even in the new town while in the old town motorcycles zoom along at high speeds, seemingly appearing out of nowhere.

On the scams side look out for pickpockets and extremely aggressive touts but especially strange men talking to you for no reason. As a tourist you will stick out like a sore thumb and will likely attract attention with less then noble intentions. These people will often ask if you are lost and “offer directions” to you destination. This is almost always a lie and their goal is to get you lost and send you to a vendor friend of theirs or into a bad situation. Furthermore many will offer services out of “the goodness of their heart” but then get aggressive if you don’t pay them or outright refuse their offers. Furthermore many fake guides exist for the sole reason to scam you. Be wary of this at the tanneries in particular.

Conclusion

The most touristic of Morocco’s cities, filled with peeps, scammers and shady characters – Marrakesh may seem like a place to avoid. Yet there is a reason people visit the city, it is noisy, boisterous and brimming with life. You will find excitement on every street corner and adventure awaits for those road trippers looking to explore the Atlas mountains. Many have come to seek their fortune and just as many failed, yet those who persevered have seen their star shine brightly and full of riches. The promise of Marrakesh is reflected in its famous pools of water, how could so much grow in a land so harsh. Water is the conduit for the Miracle of Marrakesh and from its holy waters may you be reborn.