Manchester – The “Cottonopolis” of the Industrial Revolution Re-Invented
Flying from Bucharest, Romania through to Manchester via Paris I did not know what to expect. I had just completed what had been the best trip of my life spending months in the Balkans, and by now I was at the tail end of things. The goal of my visit was to catch up with my buddy Deano, a friend whom I had met at the very beginning of my Balkans trip in Corfu, Greece. Sitting beside me on my flight was a french couple visiting their friends in the city. The told me how they had their doubts about the city when they first visited Manchester decades ago to visit friends, but have since returned every year. In my head Manchester, the titan of a long past industrial age, was a decaying city made entirely of soot covered masonry warehouses. To my surprise, my illusion was shattered as Manchester is anything but. Over the hill my ass, it is one of the most dynamic cities in the UK! The city is cultured, much more than the steel and glass skyscrapers or the blackened masonry of its past would indicate. It is a friendly place with good people with a rich sports and musical heritage (Yes! I am an Oasis and Stone Roses fan!)
Table of Contents
Geography
Manchester is located in the north-western quadrant of England, in a dense region of the country known for its industry and working class people. Due to its proximity to port of Liverpool, just north east of the city, Manchester was able to gain a foothold on the sea – thus owing its importance to that port as an outlet to ship out its various exports.
History
“Cottonopolis”, “Warehouse City”, “Madchester” these are all names have been applied to the great industrial center. This history section attempt to explain how this small medieval core grew to become one of the most important urban localities in the world during the Industrial Age.
Antiquity and The Medieval Ages
Manchester was founded in Roman times by general Agricola as a fort called Mamucium. It was built to protect the neighbouring cities of Chester (Deva Vitrix) and York (Eboracum) from a Celtic tribe called thr Brigantes. The Celts had previously occupied the site and had built a settlement where the Manchester Cathedral stands today.
The civilian settlement was abandoned in the third century and eventually Rome withdrew completely from the province of Britannia. The Saxons would fill the void left by the Romans but they too would be displaced by the Normans when they crossed the English channel in 1066. In 1069-1070 the revolting north of England was laid to waste during the Harrying of the North, an event so terrible that, even he, William the Conqueror, regretted it. Manchester was mentioned during the great survey of the 11th century called the Doomsday Book. The city was held from a Norman Manor House referred to as Manchester castle. Two evens would lay the foundation of the city’s future as a textile manufacturing center; in 1282 a town market was opened and in the 14th century the town saw an influx of migrant weavers from Flanders (a present day region located in both Belgium and France).
The Industrial Revolution, Science and the early 20th century.
Very little survives from the the medieval in Manchester apart from the Cathedral. By 1540 it was the largest town in Lancashire, at this time cotton was beginning to surpass wool in importance. During the English civil was the supported the Parliamentarians but saw little action. Of little relative importance Manchester was but a second rate city until the Mercey river was made navigable.
The industrial era in Manchester truly begins with the construction of the Bridgewater Canal, connecting Manchester to the seadocks upstream. Like many things to come in Manchester, the canal, a massive work of engineering, was a first – the only navigable river channel in Brittan at that point. The construction of the canal lowered the cost of coal, the burning fuel of the industrial revolution. From the canal imports of raw cotton began to make its way into Manchester and the city became a textile market for surrounding cities. In 1780, Richard Arkwright began construction of Manchester’s first cotton mill, ushering a new era for the city. The culmination of these events was to be that by 1913, 65% of the world’s cotton was processed here.
In the 19th century an unprecedented building boom accompanied the creation of employment. By the mid century for better of for worst Manchester was the first, and greatest Industrial city in the world. The engineering and chemical industries has expanded from cotton production and dyes to many other industrial applications. During this time the city also developed as a banking and commercial center. The city developed its own identity as a capitalist center pioneering “Manchester Liberalism” a powerful liberal pro-free trade movement that believed that free trade could alleviate poverty. As such it should be no surprise that the city was strongly against the Corn Laws, historically important import duties that were the political hot potato of 19th century Brittan. With the advent of capitalism so too did Marxism and socialism. Despite the lightning quick progress, wealth and employment generated by the city, poverty and squalor were still visible. The black soot from such extensive industry left the city polluted and many working class suburbs in squalor. Friedrich Engels, a important founding figure in Marxism lived in Manchester (sadly his beautiful house was demolished in the 1970’s).
With the rise of industry, so too did the trades of science and its byproduct innovation. At the start of the 19th century, physicist John Dalton formulated his atomic theory in Manchester. While Ernest Rutherford kickstarted experiments into nuclear physics when he first “split” atom. This headline was an awful descriptor of his work as the scope was much larger through his experiments at McGill university in Montreal, Canada (an experiment with a gold sheet only an atom wide projected with radiation!) and Manchester, he discovered a truer composition of the atom – where the atom was composed of a small nuclei with revolving electrons. This was among many other things – an interesting character to read up on if you have the chance!
Industrial achievements at the time included the construction of the the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, the first intercity passenger rail line, the Manchester Ship Canal bypassing Liverpool and allowing direct access to the sea and Trafford Park the first purpose built industrial area in the world.
Modern Era
For all its sucess, the mid and late 20th century were unkind to the city. Trafford Park was a major supplier of war equipment and the city was mercilessly bombed. Most of the historic core was leveled, particularly during the Christmas Blitz – a massive display of firepower from Nazi Germany.
After the war, much like in other English cities and town centers, the wholesale destruction of it’s dense working class ‘slums for modernist nonsense was begun. Although much of the city suffered, there were still many buildings salvageable from the bombing that was nerveless sacrificed in the name of modernity. To further compound the architectural decline, the textile industry collapsed, much like in every other advanced economy at the time. The competition came from abroad where centers like Bombay, India used the very same machines designed and exported from Manchester to take over the industry. By 1968 it was over, the cotton exchange was shuttered and by 1982 it was the turn for the port to be closed. In this time-frame the city shed over 150 000 manufacturing jobs.
In 1996 the famous Manchester bombing by the IRA took place. Although nobody was killed, it was one of the most expensive disasters in the United Kingdom, over 200 were injured and 400m quid in damages were reported. Since then the city has been on the comeback trail, competing with Birmingham for the unofficial title of “Second City”
In 2017 a bomb went off at an Ariana grande concert. It was set up by the Islamic state, 23 were killed and 800 wounded. It was the deadliest attack since the 2005 London bombings.
Exploring the City
My friend lived in the typical working class suburb of the city, with masonry rowhouses, linked to the downtown core by ways of a tramway. Although of no particular historical importance it was interesting to see life in the city from a different point of view, that of its middle class and lower class residents who cant afford a fancy loft downtown.
In the neighborhood, a few streets from his place I came across the most British thing ever! A furry friend with an almost bulldog like face peering over a low built masonry fence. From his place we would ride the tram into town during the day/evening for some touring around and to enjoy the vibrant nightlife.
One of the first things we set our sights on after my arrival was a night out on the town. We loaded up on spiced rum and lemonade in the backyard and caught up before hitting the lively Manchester bar scene for a night of debauchery. We somehow
The next morning we were in need of hangober
Downtown Manchester
After a night out, my trip to Manchester began with a trip to the urban core, the epicenter of the Manchester comeback after the 1996 IRA bombing. My first stop was Corporation street, near an overpass, where that very same bomb went off. My friend explained to me that much of the impetus for the Manchester rejuvenation actually came from this explosion. Damage was extensive and dollars to rebuild much of the street pored in. The act of coming back from such an event was one of pride and togetherness! Look out for a red pillbox (British mail box) nearby! it is the only structure to have survived the bombing, Nearby we head some god awful band playing on the street corner and ducked into a pub with some of my favourite coaster I have seen anywhere!
Corporation Street is one of the major commercial arteries of the city, as such many civic attractions can be found nearby. One such attraction is the National Football Museum, dedicated to Manchester’s pride and joy. For fanatics of Football, you will have to pay a visit to old Trafford Stadium, home to Manchester United. Behind the glass museum, to the north, you will find the Chetham music school as well as Chetham’s Library. I recommend a visit to the later as it is the oldest public library in the UK. The beautiful wood interior has been in continuous use since1653 and is one of the best kept secrets in the Manchester area.
An important building, just around the corner from the museum is the Manchester Cathedral. Built in 1421, the Gothic structure has been reconstructed and renovated several times. It survived heavy damage during the blitz and again during the 1996 Ira bombing. It is more impressive from the inside, than outside.
Just behind the cathedral is shambles square. A collection of 17th century buildings will greet you, along with a lively pub that is popular with locals and tourists alike. These are some of the only timber framed buildings left in Manchester and as such are a treasured part of the city’s heritage list.
Walking south on Corporation, I eventually come across the Royal Exchange, not far from Saint Anne Square. The exchange was constructed in 1914, in Portland stone and its floor saw the large extent of the cotton trade – in reality the Royal Exchange was the Cotton Exchange. It can be easily identified by the turret it hosts in its corner and a visit should be payed to the building to see its ornate interior.
Turning north from the exchange onto St. Anne street itself you will come across the statue line St. Anne’s square between the church itself and a perpendicular pedestrian street. This square was the center of life in 17th century Manchester, a small town then, at a time where it hosted a country fair and the buildings were still but made of timber frames. Today a statue stands at each end, one one side a memorial to the boer war and on the side closest to the church a statue to Richard Cobden, a liberal statesmen that led many Free Trade campaigns.
The church was built in 1712, when Manchester was still a town. The red sandstone neoclassical building was referred to as the new church, while the cathedral was called the old church. It was not uncommon for many attendees would try to hit both buildings for a service on Sundays. At the time of my visit a makeshift memorial was set up to honour the victims of the 2017 Ariana Grande concert bombing. The interior of the church is much lighter (painted in white) and light filled than the old Gothic cathedral.
Continuing south you can visit the John Rylands Library, a neoclassical building that is part of the university of Manchester. The Gothic masterpiece almost looks like a cathedral naive on the inside.
South of corporation street, in the very center of downtown you will find a very important cluster of buildings. These intersect with Oxford Road, the most important thoroughfare in the city. The first of these fine buildings is the Manchester train station
South of corporation street, in the very center of downtown you will find a very important cluster of buildings. These intersect with Oxford Road, the most important thoroughfare in the city. The first of these fine buildings is the Manchester train station and convention center, a massive masonry structure. Another is the Manchester free trade hall where Emily Pankhurst (a suffragette) assaulted a Policeman. You will also see the Manchester central library, a circular structure surrounded by buildings, a massive art gallery and the town hall.
The city hall is one of the most recognizable buildings in the city. Completed in 2877, its Gothic clocktower is a symbol of the city.
After you are done, make sure to explore Oxford Road, it really is the most impressive of Manchester’s shopping districts with tall 20tth century mid-rises poking up from the street. If you are craving green space, the Piccadilly Gardens is a good place to sit around and people watch.
There is a large collection of stunning masonry bindings from the city’s heyday to check out, here are a few streets scenes from around town.
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South Manchester
South Manchester is a funky place, the historic midtown it is host to an eclectic mix of modern and olden structures. A must to visit in this part of town is the Manchester museum, an archaeological collection hosted in a series of stunning Gothic buildings. You can also visit the The Whitworth, an art gallery with a collection of 55 000 items that looks like a castle. Finally, escape to the old Victoria Baths, a 19th century bathhouse that is considered to be an endangered heritage building.
East Manchester
The old industrial heartland of the city, the east end industrial suburbs have led the way for Manchester’s cultural. Built around the Manchester Ship Canal, a connection to the Mercey river port in Liverpool. Much of the change began in Salford Quays, the shuttered Manchester port when a large re-development of the ex industrial land took place. On the other side of the Manchester ship canal from the Quays you will find whats left of Trafford park, the world’s first planned industrial estate and legendary production center. A tram used to run here but its infrastructure has been abandoned for quite some time. Frankly there is little left to see of this once proud giant. The only attraction that would interest a tourist is a large modernist war muse located by the water, directly across from the Quays.
Instead of visiting either, you should pay a visit to the Castlefield historic district. This was actually the fist thing I saw from the train car window after I first flew into Manchester and was heading over to his place and I was impressed. The area was an important industrial site throughout its history, the masonry mills on all sides being bisected by canals and rail lines. This is where the first passenger line terminated (see below) and the first Manchester canal was constructed. It is possible that this was also the site of the roman fort.
Make sure you stop by the Science and industry museum. It is one of the best that Manchester offers. Located in the glass structure of one of the first train stations in the world, it is an educational journey though time.
Conclusion
Manchester has far outgrown its dirty industrial beginnings and with its recent success one could argue that it is quickly becoming England second city. I am inclined to agree with them. One thing that may get lost in the shuffle is why Manchester has attracted so many… Mancurians are some of the friendliest people in Europe, something that may change as the city grows. The working class beginnings of the people has not diminished their love of life, something can can even be traced in the music of a Manchester pop band like Oasis.
