Too Square to be Hip

A narcissist's guide to travel and culture

Magog, Orford and the Land of the Lakes – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 2)

by admin

Expanding on my previous post on the Eastern Townships, this article will explore the touristic heartland of the townships, an area central located containing stunning ski trails, crystal clear lakes, quaint pastoral land and tree covered hills. This area is known for its rural charm but also hosts an underrated food and drink scene.

In fact , love the Magog area so much that every fall I return to the area and stay at the local hostel to have a writing retreat. During the day I hike and drive around the scenic countryside and at night I find a local watering hole to settle down in, have supper, pound back a few pints and get as much writing done as I can. People in this part of Quebec are very friendly and by the end of the night I have usually traded in my pen and paper for the comforts of chatting with random strangers.

Please see the following posts for more information on the different geographical areas of the Eastern Townships:

The Abbey of St. Benoit set among the stunning scenery of the townships.

Table of Contents

Geography

See An Introduction to the Eastern Townships Part 1.

Lake Memphremagog from the shores of Magog.

A Brief History

See An Introduction to the Eastern Townships Part 1.

Exploring the Townships

The sights covered in this post will be the following:

  • Magog
  • Mt. Orford Provincial Park
  • Lake Memphremagog (Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey, Owl’s Head)
  • Lake Massawippi (North Hatley and Ayer’s Cliff)
  • Lake Magog (Sainte-Catherine-de-Hatley)
  • Compton
  • Coaticook
Église de Saint-Patrice, Magog, Québec, Canada

Magog

The most touristy of towns in the region, Magog is a popular summer destination when tourists from Montreal fill its beaches a position it maintains to a lesser extent into the fall when it becomes a mecca for hikers. In fact, the town is popular enough to have its own hostel, witch is what originally brought me to the area and I have not been able to extract myself from it since. I’ve been making yearly pilgrimages to Magog and yet it is never enough.

The town itself dates from 1776, when Loyalists from Vermont set up shop, calling the area “The Outlet” ( since the Magog river outlets here!). Magog was once a major center for the textile industry but that was undercut by the easing of tariffs on low wage countries and the industry collapsed in the 1990’s. Today the town has reinvented itself into a tourism hub. Below are a few things you can do in town.

Make sure to visit during the fall festival at the end of September! The town really come alive!

Restaurant Chez Bénito

Pointe-Merry Park

In the daytime, I recommend a visit to the Pointe-Merry Park. From here you will get a great view of the Magog beach and its distinctive tower, the center of the action in summer. The backdrop of mount Orford makes for a pretty place to visit. The peak is built at the outlet of the Magog River and Lake Memohremagog

Magog River Waterfront

In the summer and late fall, boats fill the docks on the Magog river. Here you will find the waterside Restaurant Chez Bénito, a popular drinking establishment on the water and even a MacDonald’s important when you are getting ready to stumble back to your hostel room.

The riverftont continues behing the town and you will find many more moored here. Many boaters can be found out on the lake during the day and out at the bars at night.

Lake Memphrémagog Waterfront and Beach

This is the heart of the action in the summer time, but empties out in the winter despite being equally beautiful (but the water is cold!).

On the waterfront promenade itself you will find a representation of the monster of Lake Memphrémagog, La Memphré (like the brewery name). This menacing sea creature is a Serpent that was first “spotted” in 1816. Much like Champy, the Lake Champlain monster or the Loch Ness, there is no proof of this creatures existence.

You will also find Magog’s old railway station, now a visitors center, as well as some interesting rail cars on the working railway line. Note the Orford Express tourist train ceased operations during COVID 19.

Lake Memphrémagog Tower and Lakefront Excursions

From the Lake Magog tower (It is free to climb!), you will get a great view of the town and its iconic church. This is also the home of the boat tours who will take you around the lake.

From the tower you will also get great views of Mount Orford and the boats that crowd the lake!

At the opposite side of the lake you will see the silhouette of Owl’s Head, a ski hill mentioned at the end of this post.

Saint Patrice Church and Hostel (Merry Street Pt. 1)

The hostel, Auberge de Jeunesse Magog Orford, is located beside the Saint Patrice Church. The church dates from 1872, and is a pretty stone building with a central spire that helps guide me back to my bed after a night out on the town. The church itself is surprisingly well lit at night and the stair glass looks amazing in the darkness. I stay here every year and plan on continuing this tradition well into the future.

Speaking of which, the town of Magog is spectacularly lit and every time I stop off here in the evening I feel like I’ve entered a bit of a tasteful Christmas wonderland, whatever the season. Many of the trees have lights installed on them and the buildings are well illuminated. The warm feel of the town on a summer of autumn night makes it feel very alive and vibrant.

The hostel structure is a pretty masonry building and is located right next to an art museum. The best part is that from the hostel you have a two-hundred meter walk to the local microbrewery – Microbrasserie La Memphré, one of my favourites in Quebec. You are also located even closer to a popular nightlife spot called the Café St-Michel and le Vieux Clocher de Magog a church shaped concert hall.

The hostel itself is relatively quiet. It is frequented by hikers and many couples, especially from Europe. Breakfast is included, the place is clean and the staff is particularly knowledgeable about what to do in the area.

Merry Street Pt. 2

As previously mentioned you will find a few museums on merry street including the Maison Merry Museum and the Musée international d’art naïf de Magog. I’ve never felt the need to go into the latter but the former is a charming local history museum.

Not far from the church, you will find old textile mills that have been converted into condos as well as the previously mentioned nightlife locations.

La Memphré Microbrewery

You are probably wondering why I included this as an attraction onto its town. That is because the microbrew is a strong contender for my top 3 in Quebec, up there with Dieu du Ciel in Montreal, Tête d’Allumette near Kamouraska, and the Chambly Brewery. It is also where I happen to do the majority of my writing while in town.

This microbrew is the spot to be early in the evening but by its end the party shifts to the Café St-Michel across the street.

Rue Principale (Main Street)

During you stay, make sure to to explore the 20th century main street, typical of the Eastern Townships – it has somehow managed to keep many businesses open and thriving while other towns in the region fill with vacancy signs. You will find plenty of restaurants available along here, including some high caliber dining options. In the summers many high rollers will cruise down this street in their porches and other luxury brand cars.

You will also find a grocery store, which is great to make sandwiches for a hike, and a collection of retro signs along the street.

Sentier des Cerises (Pathway of the Cherries)

In the fall take the Sentier des Cerises for a beautiful view of Mt. Orford. Located just a few hundred meters from the hostel, and just north of the beach, this multi kilometer hike through a swamp/nature reserve is well worth it for the views of Mt. Orford from its swampy grounds but also for the wildlife you may encounter. This is a great activity for those with kids or who wish to take it easy.

The pathway leads through forests on both ends of the swampy Rivière aux Cerises (Cherries River). When the forest cover dissipates, you will get a view of mount Orford in the distance, as previously mentioned. The area over the river is marshy and the pathway will become more of a boardwalk.

At the center of the pathway is a bridge over la Rivière aux Cerises (the Cherry River).

From this structure you will get a phenomenal view of the river system as well as some wildlife, especially birds and waterfowl. The edge of the forest begins to turn red at the start of the fall giving it a phenomenal colour.

The pathway is well maintained and dog friendly (with poop bags to grab right on the trail!).

Le Cep d’Argent Winery (The Silver Cask)

Finally, you really must visit Le Cep d’Argent! Located just north of the city, within mere kilometers of the downtown, this beautiful and popular winery makes for a lovely bookend to a visit to Magog.

This winery is one of the three oldest in Quebec and has a surprisingly good pedigree. I recommend trying the Fleur de Lys wine.

Mt. Orford

Overlooking splendid Lake Memphremagog, is the towering Mount Orford. In the fall this green giant turns itself into a red colored paradise. On your way in from the village of Magog you will see the entrance to the park itself as well as the entrance to the ski hill. This is one of the rare SEPAC areas (Quebec Parks) that has commercial activity of this kind operating within it.

Ski Hill and La Flambée des Couleurs (Festival of Colours)

A good option is to park at the ski hill (you now have to pay for parking, confirmed in 2020). The modern loge is quite comfortable and is the base of Magog-Orford’s fall festival “La flambée des couleurs” (the Festival of Colours). It is also home to a fantastic September beer festival at its base.

You can either hike up the hill or pay for the gondola, but I recommend the hike to absorbe the fall beauty.

The hike up is not overly long and will encourage you to enjoy a proper brew at the bottom of the hill upon your return.

There are many small peaks you can stop off in along the way, including the Pic-au-Corbeau (the summit of crows) for some equally stunning views.

You will aslo have some great viewpoints of lake Memphremagog below.

At the peak you will find a platform right under the gondola with panoramic view of the maple forests below.

You will also see multiple other viewpoints looking in several different directions.

Sentiers des Crêtes Loop (Pathway of the Crests)

From here you can do the Sentiers des Crêtes loop (Pathway of the crests). Heading along along the crest of the mountain north, you will be privy to a view of the beautiful view of the lake Stuckley from above. From there it the pathway continues around the lake. In late September this hike has a beautiful red hue from the tree cover. Be sure to start early as this is no short trail!

This loop links both the Mt. Orford and Pic de L’Ours/Lac-Stukely sides of the park.

Parc national du Mont-Orford – Secteur du Lac-Stukely (Pic de l’Ours, Colline Des Pins)

Located on the eastern slope of Mt. Orford as well as its northern one, this section of the park contains a marsh with the Colline Des Pins (Hill of the Pines) view point offering beautiful views of Mt. Orford itself with a marsh in its foreground.

To the north you have the beaches of Lac-Stukely with the Pic de L’Ours (Summit of the Bear) that offers views of Lac-Stukely itself.

Other Nearby Attractions (In the Land of the Lakes)

Lake Memphremagog

The lake that Magog is built upon has a lot of wonderful attractions on its southern flank including ski hills and an Art Deco Abbey, Cideries, Wineries and ski hills amongst other things.

Town of Austin and the Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey

From Magog it is easy to drive to the Sait-Benoit-du-Lac Abbey, located midway across the lake, on the west bank. The scenery becomes more mountainous and rugged as you make it along towards the US border. Before you turn village of towards the abbey you will hit the town of Austin. The backdrop of the church and the mountains here is very pretty.

Village of Austin, among the stunning backdrop of rolling hills.

There is a parking lot near the apple orchard the monks make their own cider and the property is a beauty, stay to pick up some apples. There are 3500 trees, labelled by type, so enjoy walking the property. Do make sure to try the cider!

Opposite to the orchard is a pretty chapel on a hill. It is built in the same style as the abbey.

The abbey itself has a fascinating history. In 1912, a group of monks was exiled from France due to an anti-clerical law and began the process of establishing a congregation. In 1938 the monks began the construction on the priory building you see today, as such it reflects the architecture of the time, Art-Deco! The inside is host to a marvel of coloured tile and brick mosaics, as well as a large church structure. Unfortunately the church spire lookout is closed outside of the summer months.

For more information on the abbey itself, you can take a tour with the monks during the summer months. They number only about fifty at this time, a sharp decrease from times past. In the fall the tour replaced by an audio one.

For more information click here.

Owl’s Head

This ski hill on Lake Memphremagog, past the St. Benoit Abbey and located on the western shore of the lake is a little out of the way. But if you can make it for a summer/fall hike you will be greatly rewarded. In the winter you can ski hill and I have no doubt that the lake views from its top would make for a great backdrop!

For more information click here.

Lake Magog

Sainte-Catherine-de-Hatley

This small town, built on a bluff, overlooking little Lake Magog is little more than a crossroads on a rural road heading from Magog to Sherbrook. From the southern end of the main street, you will be afforded a striking view of the pastoral landscape as well as Mount Orford on a good day and the northern end, you will be driving down towards Lake Magog.

You will encounter type of typical buildings found throughout the counties interlaced on the main street.

But the real prize is is the town church, an ancient structure dating from 1872. The spooky stone building is of the Catholic denomination and is worth a quick stop off for a look. It looks quite massive in comparison to the village it serves.

Beside the church you will find a cemetery that looks quite lovely in the fall, when the trees are turning.

Lake Massawippi

Opposite to Lake Memphremagog, to the east, is Lake Massawippi, the former’s sister lake. This area was a once a loyalist stronghold and still holds much of its anglophone character. During the 20th century the area became known as a summer destination for wealthy Americans. The name of the lake is aboriginal and can be roughly translated to “the big deep lake” in English. Us industrialist Foxhall P. Keene, writer Upton Sinclair, and the Barron family (of Barron’s Magazine) are some of the illustrious names to have their homes on the lake.

Ayer’s Cliff

At the south tip of the lake you will find the town of Ayer’s Cliff, where many of the Americans build their summer estates. The city is home to the famous Ripplecove Inn and is not far from the the luxurious Hovey Manor. There are several nice summer homes and cottages in the town itself.

On your way into town you will surely get a chance to stop at the municipal beach and enjoy beautiful views of the lake.

Located rather exclusively on a small peninsula north of the city is The Ripplecove. This hotel was featured on CTV, a Canadian new outlet, who rated this property as one of the most romantic Canadian Most Romantic Hideaways.

This expensive spa was built in 1945 and is worth the look, even if you dont want to pay the outrageous price. Like Hovey Manor, the property is beautiful.

Hovey Manor

Located just west of North Haltley, Hovey’s legacy differs greatly from that of Ripplecove Inn. The building is a legacy of US citizens, predominantly those south of the Mason Dixie line. After the civil war, many refused their regular vacation spots in New England, a place they referenced as Yankeeland and replaced it with a vacation to Canada. Popular legend has it that they would ride private trains and draw their blinds when passing though the northern US. Famous people that have stayed in Ayer’s Cliff include railroad mogul Charles Keller Beekman, Chicago attorney David Leavitt Hough, Charles W. Parker, and George Fuller Parker, a close friend of President Grover Cleveland. The beautiful building is rather secluded and I felt like a bit of an intruder when entering the property.

North Hatley

At the northern end of the lake you will find North Hatley. The current from the the connecting river flows into the lake from here. This town is another Loyalist settlement that once received plenty of US Southerners in the Summer months, yet it was also a refuge for several Canadian poets.

Unlike the town of Ayer’s, ‘Nor’ Hatley saw most of its visitors stay in inns instead of private compounds or estates. In 2003, Jacques Chirac, a president of France, spent a summer at an inn in town.

  • Construction on the North Hatley Bridge.

North Hatley may be small but there are several attractions to check out. you should take you time to see the iconic Hatley pier, with the stunning cast iron sign bearing its its name. You should also visit the many historic inns including that of the Auberge La Chocolatiere. Finally make sure to grab a beer at the Pilsen Restaurant et Pub. Located right on the river it has a delightful outdoor patio, perfect for a warm day.

The city has also seen its likeness in film, particularly in the movie Secret Window with Johnny Depp and The X-Files as the Cigarette Smoking Man’s hideout. For those who who have watched secret window, you will recognize this beautiful shot of the lake at the pier!

Other Attractions

Maison Louis St. Laurent in Compton

This town, located in the south-eastern reaches of the Townships, is a sight to behold. Around the village are a success of low lying hills and fertile farmland. In the small town of Compton, you will find a National Historic Site of Canada. It is the home of one of my favourite Prime Ministers the Honourable Louis St. Laurent. The site itself is the general store of Louis’s fathers and exhibits take you back in time to explore the world of world of 1950’s Quebec.

On the outskirts of town you will find the Pont Drouin on the Coaticook river, a beautiful example of a covered wood bridge as well as King’s Hall. The later is a beautiful masonry and wood Tudor style building. It was at one time the college for young Anglo-protestant women founded in 1874. This building reflects the strong loyalist influence in the Townships during the 19th century.

Coaticook

This park is located in a beautiful gorge, and is home to one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in Canada. This is a must visit attractions, especially when it plays host to a sound an light show called Foresta Lumina in the evenings. .

For more information click here.

Conclusion

As mentioned previously, I have been vacationing to the Eastern Townships for years, yet I never get bored of it. The more I discover of it, the more things I find to come back for. This region is captivating and I hope you enjoy it just as much as I do!

Share on Facebook
Post on X
Follow us
RSS
Follow by Email
Facebook
fb-share-icon
Twitter
Tweet
Pinterest
Instagram