Ljubljana – A Small Baroque City that Packs a Big Punch!
Billy Joel’s 1977 Album “The Stranger” contains a song called Vienna. In it the narrator relates a message about enjoying life and not rushing forward too quickly. The perfect place for this is obviously Vienna as the narrator says “Vienna waits for you”. I never got that impression from Vienna, not once, but I did here in Ljubljana, capital of the Slovene people.
Table of Contents
- Who Are The Slovenes?
- Myths and Legends, The Dragon of Ljubljana:
- A Brief History:
- Gallery
- Easy Day Trips:
Who Are The Slovenes?
Slovenia has only been truly independent since 1991. It is a young country and one still grappling with its history of occupation. As an independent nation it has become the richest post-Yugoslav republic and retains an identity that is both Slavic and Germanic, a legacy of its long subjugation by the Austrian Empire. As such, the religion defers from its Serb and Montenegrin counterparts, Slovenes are Catholics like Croatians and not Orthodox.
As a legacy of their Slavic heritage, Slovenes speak Slovene and can understand or speak other southern Slavic languages. The Serbo-Croatian dialect is wildly understood due to Slovenia’s time in Yugoslavia. The Slovene language makes use of many Serb-Croatian and German words but is a distinct language. Furthermore the culinary culture seems shares many similarities with their southern neighbours as well as the Austrians to the north.
Myths and Legends, The Dragon of Ljubljana:
The symbol of the city is the Dragon; it can be found on the flag, on its coat of arms as well as in many statues around town.
According to Greek mythology Jason and the Argonauts stopped here on their return from their quest for the Golden Fleece. In the marshes surrounding the Ljubljanica river they set up camp and encountered a fiery lizard-like creature. Since the Argo was dismantled and the heroes could not retreat, Jason was forced to confront the beast.
In Slavic myth, the Dragon symbolises the fertility of the Ljubljanica river, where the dragon releases the floodwater from the marsh to flood the river bringing abundance to the land.
The final myth, and the most accepted one, relates to that of Saint George‘s slaying of the dragon. Saint George is the patron saint of the chapel in Ljubljana castle, therefore the dragon may have been added in tribute to Saint George. In Christian mythology the defeat of the dragon by St. George represents the overcoming of the old pagan traditions by Christianity.
Had to borrow this one from the internet
A Brief History:
The area has been settled since prehistoric times. In this era the people built houses on piles by the river and used canoes for transportation. The oldest wooden wheel in the world (5150 years) was found in the marshes near Ljubljana.
The area would eventually fall under Celtic and Illyrian rule before the rise of Rome. Under roman rule a settlement was established in the vicinity of Ljubljana called Emona. This settlement, about 5000 people strong, played a crucial role in defending northern Italy from barbarian invasions. As a consequence, it was burned down by Attila in 452AD and the terrified citizens fled to nearby Istria, located in present day Croatia.
The medieval history of the city on mimics that of nearby Bled. Slavs settled here in the sixth century establishing the principality of Carantania. They would be conquered by the Germanic Franks in the ninth century. The new name for the city would then become the Germanic Laibach. The Dukes of Sponheim, a German family would own the deeds to the city, which at that time was just wood structures and a castle. Market rights were granted by the Holy Roman Emperor and the city grew; Guilds halls were sprung up and newcomers migrated here including many Teutonic knights and Franciscan Friars . Due to the flammable construction the city burned down many times. In 1270 the city was conquered by the kingdom of Bohemia before passing to the Austria, the conqueror Slovenia is most associated with, due to the long length of its occupation.
In the 15th century the city was levelled by an earthquake. The city remained stagnant, with a tiny population of 5000 people, until the 16th century when the protestant reformation took hold. Fearing the worst Jesuit missionaries were sent here to counter it, these industrious newcomers introduced baroque music and eventually in the 17th century the city was rebuilt in Baroque style.
In 1809 the city briefly passing into Napoleons hands as the capital city of his Illyrian Provinces before being returned to Austria. It hosted the Congress of Laibach, where the borders of the post Napoleonic era were set. After a massive earthquake in 1895 was rebuilt in the classic Vienna Succession style. Reborn, the population swelled.
After the first world war it was annexed to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. During the Second World war it was occupied by Italy and the later by Nazi Germany. This was a bloody period in Slovenian history, with infighting between communist partisan groups and fascist home guard militia gripping the nation. Mass graves can be found outside many cities, some of the atrocities due to the Nazi troops and others the clashing civilian groups. After the war Slovenia fell behind the iron curtain and “re-joined” Tito’s Yugoslavia. After the death of Tito’s and the rise of Milosevic in Serbia, tensions grew between the Yugoslav Republics. In 1991 it was the first country to leave the union and a brief 10 day war ensued, the result of which was independence. In 2004 Slovenia joined the European Union.
What to do in Ljubljana?:
Ljubljana is a very compact and walkable city, it is best discovered on foot. Since there are not many sights to keep you running back and forth across the city, it is an ideal place to lounge and absorb its charm.
The main attraction is the castle, sitting high above the city center, it can be accessed either by foot by way of a path that winds around the hill, or by funicular. As always I choose the first option, as you get a good workout and you get to more angles to observe the city from. The castle grounds were originally used as a stronghold by the Romans. The present structure dates from 11th century and was a timber and stone structure. It was rebuilt a century later in stone and has been modified many times since. It served as the seat of the lords of Carniola and was at one point a prison. The grounds are a major public space. If you come on Friday night there is section of the castle that serves as a Jazz club and, in the summer, movies are often played here.
The second best view in town can be access from one of the Nebotičnik cafe, one of the Tallest buildings in the city. Built in 1933, it was once the tallest structure in the Balkans. Sit down, kick back, and enjoy the view.
The most picturesque part of the city is Prešeren Square. At this point many city streets meet and the intersection leads to the famous ornamental triple bridge. Built after the 1895 earthquake it is one of the most remarkable urban spaces in the region. At the foot of the bridge is the Pink Church of the Annunciation, built in baroque style it sticks out daring you to take pictures of it.
Other sites include the gorgeous central market located by the famous dragon bridge, the 18th century yellow baroque cathedral, the national gallery of Slovenia and Congress Square.
For those looking for some greenery, the city is surrounded by mountains and Tivoli park offers ample respite from the city.
When to Visit Ljubljana:
Although summer is nice, it may be a little quiet. Be sure to come when the students are still in town, either in the spring or fall. Although a little rowdy they add a lot of atmosphere to the city. On a good night in Ljubljana, the riverside cafe are filled with people and the city comes alive.
Nightlife and Beer:
Ljubljana is not known for its nightlife but there are a few lively cafes and clubs. That’s why I was surprised by my rather odd German roommate stumbling in drunk saying he couldn’t find a brothel, who comes to Ljubljana looking for a prostitute? Even more so at during broad daylight!
If you are looking to meet interesting people, I would recommend making friends with the locals and they will show you where the real party is at. I spent one night with a large group of Dutch tourists at a club called Shooters, it was a fun evening but one I could have had anywhere in Europe, I got a better feel for the place when I befriended some Slovenians and they showed me around.
For the beer lovers, there is two main macros to check out (see article on Balkans Beers). These are Laško and Union breweries. They are served at any pub worth its name and offer a wide variety of beers. Both have their breweries in the suburbs, but Union has a cafe in the old town where you can sample their product!
Unfortunately Heineken owns Laško and Union and has merged both companies together. Don’t be fooled, Union is the superior beer but Laško offers great specialty beers like the one below.
Gallery
Cant get enough of the city? Here are a few extra pictures that did not make it into the post.
Castle Views
Old Town
Easy Day Trips:
Both the train and bus station are located just north of the city center and it easy to do day trip to anywhere in Slovenia from here. Slovenia is a small country but with much to offer. Take advantage of this by seeing as much of the country as possible and use Ljubljana as a base to do so.
Lake Bled: Located less than an hour drive north of the capital. This idyllic destination is a must do.
Piran and the Adriatic Coast: Believe it or not Slovenia owns a thin strip of coastline between Italy and Croatia. This small town is well worth a visit.
Maribor: Located North-East of the capital this small city boasts the best wineries in the country.
Celje: Experience authentic Slovenian culture in the country’s third biggest city.
Kamnik: Know in medieval time by its German name, Stein. The city boasts ruined castles and pretty mountain vistas.
Kranj: The fourth largest city is Slovenia is the capital of Industry of the Upper Carniola region. Come see to see the Sava river and the old town.
