Liverpool – The Mercantile City with a Rock and Roll Pedigree
On the banks of the River Mersey, where the watercourse spills it’s full content out to be dispersed into the Irish Sea, stands a solitary port city… Liverpool, the gentle grey giant that once dominated the world’s shipping industry. It is in this decaying Lancashire port that one of the great Rock and Roll bands emerged, the Beatles. Here is a quick look at the city that changed rock and roll history forever!
Table of Contents
- Geography
- History
- Exploring the Mercantile City
- Explore the “Knowledge Quarter”
- Ropewalks
- Wander the Historic Streets in the Downtown Core
- Conclusion
Geography
Located in the North-Western quadrant of England, Liverpool falls within the historic boundaries of Lancashire, although it outgrew the confines of this historic county in the 1880’s to form what is now known as Merseyside. Liverpool was into the ridge of coastal sandstone cliffs and occupies a desirable protected port setting at the mouth of the River Mersey. On the other side of the Irish Sea, almost at the same latitude, past the northern point of Whales, you will find Dublin, the historic capital of the Irish people. Cursed with a poor economy many Irish immigrants settled in Liverpool in the hope of finding work. As you will notice when engaging with locals, they have a “distinct” accent – Scouse! Although Liverpoolians, much like Mancurians are lovely people, the Scouse accent is rated as one of the least pleasing in the UK.
History
Much like its sister city Manchester, Liverpool comes from humble beginnings. Liuerpul, as it was once named, began as a small village founded in 1190. It would not take off until trade with the African continent and the West Indies supplanted that of the Irish Sea trade with Whales and Ireland. The first commercial wet dock was established in 1715 cementing Liverpool as a center of trade, this trend only continued with the opening of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway in 1830. Nicknames quickly developed for the settlement such as “the second city of the Empire”, and “the New York of Europe”.
Antiquity and Medieval Liverpool
Occupied since the Stone Age as witnessed by the presence of ancient neolithic Calder Stones, the region fell to the Romans in 70AD after an initial Druidic/Celtic resistance. The closest Roman settlement was nearby Chester, not far from the Welsh border. A Roman tile works may have existed where Liverpool stands today. After the roman withdrawal the region was fought over by many kingdoms including the Anglo-Saxons and the Welsh and eventually ended up in a Viking state called the Danelaw. The viking would populate the region of the Merseyside after their expulsion from Dublin, in 902.
By 1207, a real settlement called Livpul was established by the King of England. This settlement was to be free of the control of the Earl of Chester and a castle was constructed, yet it grew slowly. It eventually was referred to as a dilapidated royal town.
Shipping, Slavery and the Industrial Age
By the mid-seventieth century the river Dee in Chester had begun to silt up, it did so badly that the towns exchanged positions. Liverpool took up much of the former’s trade with Ireland and the Isle of Man. In 1644 it played part in the English civil war when the royalist under Prince Rupert of the Rhine besieged Liverpool castle. By 1648, Liverpool received its first cargo from the Americas, then the West Indies and by 1699 it sent out its first slave ship. The first sugar refinery in the city opened its doors here in 1699. In 1715 the first commercial wet dock in the world was established and it bypassed Bristol, a rival slaving port, in terms of importance. By 1800 it held a market share of 40% of the world’s slaving activity and the city would become the second most important metropolis in Great-Britain. Wealth derived from the trade turned the city into a major financial center. Public opinion eventually soured on the question of slavery and the city had to turn to new industries.
The 19th century was kind to the city, the city industrialized rapidly and the Great Famine of Ireland cause the population to swell, many of the Irish migrants looking for work. In 1830, Liverpool and Manchester became the first cities to have an intercity rail link and during periods the city was more wealthy than London. The customs house in Liverpool was the largest contributor to the British exchequer.
WW1, WW2 and Decline
Massive social unrest followed the Great War including racial riots and union strikes. During the second world way it received a similar treatment to London, becoming the second most bombed city in the UK. Despite these challenges, the battle of the Atlantic was planned, fought and won from Liverpool – the main war port for a a nation tethering on the edge of destruction. After the war, the city was in shambles. Over half of the housing stock was destroyed and thousands dead. The city was hastily rebuilt in an architecturally unappealing style just like many British cities. Although many commonwealth soldiers settled in the city, the shattered economy would lead to Liverpool losing population and much of its status. It would not recover till late in the 20th century. Unemployment was the highest in the UK at the time but at least the 1960’s allowed Liverpool to provide Britain with some of the greatest rock and roll beats it would ever see – the Beatles.
Exploring the Mercantile City
My hotel in Liverpool was located not far from Dale Street in Liverpool. A walkable distance from most attractions and closer to the northern side of downtown which seems to have mostly avoided the bombs. If venturing the once war town downtown, may be disappointed at first. Many of the pre-war buildings have been demolished and replaced with drab nondescript offices drab complexes or atrocious mall complexes such as Liverpool one. The trick to Liverpool to to expand your sights beyond this area.
Enjoy a Visit to the Merseyside Waterfront and the Royal Albert dock
The heart of the mercantile city, the port was the center of commercial activity for most of the city’s history. As such all tourists should start their tour of the city here, at the waterside Customs House. Although the beautiful waterfront views have been somewhat obscured by awfully shaped modern towers, the waterfront still remains the hub of cultural activity in the city. Most of the museums in Liverpool are located here.
Three landmark buildings headline the center of the district. They are referered to locally as the Three Graces, one of them a graceful domed building will stand out, this is the old Port of Liverpool Building and a symbol of the city. In front of it you will find two things, a massive statue of the Fab Four (the Beatles) and the intermittently covered Liverpool canal link. The other two are the Cunard Building and the Royal Liver Building, the later is easily recognizable by its iconic clocktower. The Cunard Building (completed in 1917) is known for its ornate palace like sculptures whereas the Royal Liver Building (completed in 1911) is one of the first buildings completed in reinforced concrete and was once one of the tallest in the country. If you look closely at both cupola’s you will find Liverbirds, the symbol of the city. A local legend explains that if these two birds where to fly away the city would cease to exist. The Edwardian Baroque Port of Liverpool Building along with the two others is built on reclaimed land from the sea to form what is called the Pier Head, on reclaimed sea land that made up George’s Dock. The Building is renowned for its maritime sculptures. Beatles walking tours leave from its front doors.
Facing the water you have the strikingly ugly modern structure housing the Museum of Liverpool (although the collection is quite nice) and the equally ugly ferry building. Take an iconic ferry ride across the River Mersey to Birkenhead where you can visit the old industrial lands and dockyards. In a seamless experience, some of Europe’s oldest trams will take you to the Wirral Transport Museum for an unforgettable journey though an old maintenance shed and several type of vehicles including old firetrucks. Before you head back across, make sure to catch the 1 0’Clock Gun , a cannon guarding an old industrial area/dock and the u-boat museum called U-boat Story near the ferry building. It is an old German u-boat on display with interactive exhibits.
Just south of the Three Graces you will find both the Liverpool One mall on the mainland and extending into the water is the most famous Liverpool attraction the Albert Dockyard. The unenchanting Liverpool One site, was where the the custom house, Liverpool’s fifth, was built in 1823. It was destroyed in the Second World War and the ruins of the beloved structure completely dismantled in 1948. What is notable is that you can find viewing holes around the site peering down into the bowels of the structure below. The old custom house was built on reclaimed land of the Old Pier, the third pier of Liverpool and first commercial wet dock. Hence you can see the foundations of the dock and the concrete used to fill it.
The Royal Albert Dock, another famous wet dock, is the most impressive structure in Liverpool. Opened in 1846 as a complex of warehouses and docks, it was the first structure in the UK to be constructed from cast iron, brick and stone, without the need of structural lumber. It was also the first such complex to use a hydraulic crane. The rectangular pool of water had warehouses on all sides allowing easy access to unload goods. After being used by the admiralty during the second World War due to its secure shape, it was heavily bombed. After the war it was shuttered for a time and considered to be one of the most famous of Britain’s endangered heritage complexes. Luckily it was saved from the wreaking ball by a rejuvenation scheme. On your way in you will find the the Victorian pump house, now a cozy pub and a replica ship. Further-down the pier you will find the masonry pier-masters house (1852). The second would war interior has been kept for visitor to see. Admission is free.
One branch of the complex is now the Merseyside Maritime Museum, with a free admission it is well worth the visit. It details the seafaring history of the city including the history of customs, the role of the city in the second world war, transatlantic trade, slavery well as the history of white star lines and the titanic. Another part of the complex is now a branch of the Tate art museum.
On the other side of the docks you will find a Ferris wheel, restaurants and the departure for the Beatles magical mystery tour bus.
Party Like a Beatle on Matthew Street
Ok, so this part of my trip is a little fuzzy. If in the area while there is still sunlight out, you should start with a visit to the Beatles Museum nearby. Afterwards, shuffle out and begin drinking at a karaoke bar on Matthew Street and then continue the night with a pub crawl or hitting the Cavern Club, a famous nightclub and jazz venue, that played host to the Beatles in the early year. It was filled in during the construction of the underground Merseyrail commuter system in the 1970’s before being re-excavated and returned to its former glory. In front of the club you will find the Liverpool Wall of Fame where all the number 1 hits produced by Liverpool artist are displayed. The Beatles lead the pack with 17. You will have not problem finding lively bars packed to the brim, not bad for a former fruit market.
Visit North Liverpool and its Rich Football History!
For football fanatics, pay a visit to Anfield stadium in the north end (soon to be replaced by a stadium at Stanley park). Beside the stadium you will find Stanley Park, a historic park with a Victorian Conservatory built in 1899.
For fans of Everton F.C, you must take the time to visit the Everton Lock-Up! This old jail cell is used on Everton’s crest! It was built in the heights that prince Rupert of the Rhine, the famous royalist cavalier, looked down upon the now demolished Liverpool castle and prepared his assault on the parliamentarians.
Explore the “Knowledge Quarter”
This massive neighbourhood spans from Liverpool’s Lime Street Station (and St. Georges) to the massive cathedral overlooking the Baltic quarter. It is host to two universities and a hospital, hence the name.
The main attraction is the 20th century cathedral. The massive giant can be seen from any part of the city. It is the largest religious structure in the world and one of the largest churches. The landmark red sandstone building is known for its Gothic style and its central tower contains arches that are the highest in the world. In front of the building you will find a neoclassical styled building that looks like a roman temple, this is the oratory. This is a cant miss attraction!
Just outside the district, to the north in the decapitated Edge Hill district, you can find the Williamson Tunnels. Built by a tobacco merchant when the district was still a rail road hub, its true intent has not yet been discovered. The site is open to tourists!
Ropewalks
This neighborhood of warehouses and residential structures is known for its long parallel streets. It takes the name of the craftsman who once inhabited it, rope-makers. Until the 19th century, the workers of this district would lay out sailing rope in the long uninterrupted roads during the production stage. Look out for the bombed out St. Luke’s church. One stained glass window of a liver bird remains! Today the district is better known for its restaurants and clubs.
It should be no surprise that as one of the world’s the leading port, Liverpool hosted the first Chinatown in Europe. It can be found in the Ropewalks! North of the Ropewalks, in Edgehill you will find the landmark catholic cathedral of Liverpool. Its ugly but I felt compelled to mention it as Liverpool has a large population of Irish catholic immigrants over the years and part of their story is that of Liverpool’s.
Wander the Historic Streets in the Downtown Core
Although the downtown core has seen its fair share of destruction and modern monstrosities, there are still a few gems. Take Water Street for example. On this street you can visit the stunning limestone clad town hall. Open to the public the residence of the lord mayor is gorgeous.
This street intersects with Dale street where you will find an eclectic collection of pretty 19th and early 20th century structures.
Immerse Yourself in Culture at St. Georges Heights
On a hill above the city you will find a second cluster of museums. Conceived in the 19th century these are more traditional and are some of the most serious/best in the city. The impressive buildings of this district is the first thing when you emerge from historic Lime train street station and it will give you an immediate feel for the importance of the city.
Clustered around the Steble Fountain and the St. John’s Garden you will find the World Museum, Walker Art Gallery and the St George’s Hall Liverpool. The later is not a traditional gallery but a venue but I would poke my head inside anyway. In front of the Hall you will find a cenotaph and a horseback statue.
Explore the Heart of 20th Century Liverpool in the Baltic Triangle with a view of the Stunning Liverpool Cathedral!
The gritty part of Liverpool, the working class Baltic triangle is overshadowed by the massive red sandstone Gothic cathedral of Liverpool. The old industrial part of the city has become somewhat of a hipster district in recent years hosting great bars, restaurants and digital enterprises. The cathedral was discussed in the knowledge quarter section but it looks so good looming over hood!
There are many theories about the origin of the district name, one of witch involves the importation of timber from Norway and the Baltic Sea to build many of the original houses.
Conclusion
Liverpool may be little more that an association with the Beatles to many, but this city is one of the most important in the history of the world. Come experience the culture and flair of a city that is distinctly English but yet has hosted historic minority populations longer than most parts of the country. From the Irish to West Indies migrants the city has been exposed to a wide array of cultures and customs.
