The Hawk Lakes – An Introduction to the Algonquin Highlands
Escaping my dreary life in the city during the 2020 Covid 19 Pandemic, I found myself staying at a cottage in the Algonquin Highlands, a wild region of Canada just south of the famed Algonquin Park. As usual after a day of rest i was finding myself restless and looking for adventure – a call to the great outdoors. During my second day here, I put on my hiking shoes and was fast on my way out the door.
Table of Contents
Cottage at Hall’s Lake
The Algonquin Highlands consists mostly of two things; forests and lakes. This combination makes it a popular back country getaway for cottagers and day trippers. Like many of the cottages in the area, we had access to a little dock.
The region’s clear lakes make for great swimming for both humans and dogs!
The sunsets on the lakes can also be quite lovely, especially when you have gotten a few brews in you! This is typical cottage stuff so I wanted to keep this section short.
Little Hawk Lake
From Little Hawk Lake, a short 10 minute drive from Hall’s lake, you will find the trailhead for the Circuit of Five Viewpoints Trailhead and the Crests of Kennisis trail. Although the later one is the newest of them, it is by far the more interesting hike. But more on that shortly. On little hawk lake you will find large docking facilities, a marina and many boats moored on the water.
Crests Of Kennisis Trailhead
You will find the entrance for this trail where google indicates the trailhead for the Circuit of Five viewpoints. The path will take you from Little Hawk Lake to the Log Chute at Big Hawk Lake, via scenic vistas, hence the “crests”. I recommend bringing two cars and leaving one at either lake so you don’t have to double back on your steps. More information about the trail itself can be found in the Big Hawk Lake section.
Big Hawk Lake and Dam
The mirror image of Little Hawk Lake, Big Hawk lake has a smaller marina located in a little inlet leading to a small dam controlling the reservoir drainage to a small river. This is the Kennisis River and provides drainage to Halls Lake.
The dam was constructed in 1929 and replaced a previous timber and stone structure. It was part of a massive system of dams/reservoirs used to regulate water for hydroelectric production and navigation. Believe it or not one can navigate the lakes all the way down to the massive Trent-Severn Waterway canal system! At the time of its construction the area held but a few lumber camps. As the area became a cottagers paradise conflicts began over the water drawn from the lakes (low water levels can leave docks stranded). The conflicts raged throughout the 1960’s but has since been resolved.
Hawk Lake Log Chute
The main attraction in the the Hawk Lakes, this log chute is the last remaining of its kind in Ontario. The log chute was first developed in Ottawa, Canada to circumvent the Chaudiere falls. It allowed loggers (“Draveurs) to to direct the logs down the falls in a controlled maner. There were built in conjunction with damns and were attached to them. A chute has existed here since 1861 but was rebuilt in 1948. Since then it has been repaired but damage can still be seen today despite multiple renovations.
The flow of the water though the system is something to be seen!
Today you can walk along the length of the chute as well as across the dam where you will find the trailhead for the Crest of Kinnesis. The park stretching parallel to the dam contains information panels explaining the history of the region and the hardy people who worked the forests in camps up this way. I have attached a quote from the panel to give you an idea what kind of backbreaking labor went into logging at that time.
I remember the first morning we went up there to start tailing the Hawk river and I said I wonder how we’re gonna get them logs into the water. You see, I’d never done it before. When we come to the river, this old Sam Whittaker, he had the peavey over his shoulder and he was ahead of us and we were following him like a couple of pups.”
Logger, 1947 river drive for Hodgson’s Mill
The type of wood logged in this part of Canada was the mighty pine. The region developed when England’s lumber supply in the Baltic Region was threatened by war and political tensions. In turn they turned to Canada driving development in the nearby town of Haliburton and throughout the Highlands. The main trading partner eventually became the us but a deadly mix of tariffs and depletion ground the industry to a halt at the start of the 20th century. The last big lumber drive in this region happened in 1947 and the chute was last used in 1952. As you can see in the picture below the middle of the chute is heavily bowed but I can imagine that heavy lumber trunks would be damaging to this type of installation and repairs must have been frequent. The old dam masters hose can be found nearby on Big Hawk lake but it is a private residence accessed by private road, as such i am not sure if you can visit it.
Crests Of Kennisis Trailhead
It does not matter if you wish to take this trail from little Hawk Lake or Big Hawk lake, as it is an out and back trail. From the dam you will climb up a steep escarpment. From there the part will take you up and down a few crests, while sometime merging onto old logging roads.
The mosquitoes are very bad in the early summer so bring bug spray, even then my dog and the rest of us were bitten quite badly. This is especially bad in the thick underbrush, but it is not as bad when you gain elevation. The trail is not particularly well marked, so just be aware of your surroundings.
As you will surely see the best part of the hike is the view from the crests!
Swat away the mosquitoes and black flies, then put your feet over the edge and enjoy the view.
