Lindsay, the Kirkfield Lift Lock and Fenelon Falls – The Heart of the Kawartha Lakes and the Trent-Severn Waterway
In the heart of the Kawartha’s you will find the town of Lindsay, bisected by the Trent-Severn Waterway. Along this watercourse are a series of engineering marvels, and it makes for a worthy day of exploring. Welcome to the Heart of the Kawartha Lakes!
Note: This post should be read in conjunction with that on the town of Bobcaygeon, one of the region’s scenic stopoffs.
Table of Contents
Geography
Located north east of Toronto, in a lake filled region of Central Ontario, the Kawartha’s are a popular summer destination. The municipality is bisected by the Trent-Severn Waterway, an important canal that links Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, via Lake Simcoe. Open since 1922, it is popular with recreational boaters. Lindsay is the largest city in the municipality.
The name Kawartha itself is a geographic indicator, an anglicization of the word Ka-wa-tha. In the Anishinaabe language it means “land of reflections”, a shout out to the surrounding lakes.
A Brief History
The Kawarthas were settled in the early 19th century for example 1825, in the case of Lindsay. Due to its dense forested areas and availability of water power it quickly attracted the lumber industry, and sawmills to process those products. Later in the mid 19th century, the railways came, connecting the then rural region to larger centers of Upper Canada such as Peterborough and Toronto and in the later 20th century to Ottawa amongst others.
The locomotive was essential to the region’s development, and although growth stalled in the 20th century, the ruins of the hold mills, and the active Trent-Severn canal still remain to remind us of those early settler days.
Exploring the Kawartha Lakes
Kirkfield Lift Lock (Lock 36)
Out from the landscape this concrete and steel behemoth emerged! This is the second highest hydrophilic lock in the world and was constructed between 1900 and 1905. Today you can climb up to its control tower for views of he surrounding landscape. It is similar to the Peterborough Lift Lock but uses metal frames instead of concrete towers. Its average lift is around 15 meters!
Fenelon Falls (Lock 34)
This small town along the canal may not seem like much to look at judging by its diminutive main street, but it actually does have a few attractions worthy of visiting.
The town was originally called Cameron’s Falls, and of course those falls necessitated the construction of a lock station at this location
In the summer this area is lined with boats, among the coloured houses along the water but in the winter it is a little more depressing. You will find a waterfront park to enjoy the falls themselves however.
The rent-Severn Waterway, Lock 34 at Fenelon Falls follows a parallel trajectory to the watercouse.
It is lined with some of the towns nicest structures, including an old stone warehouse how housing the Fenelon Falls Brewing Co., the best attraction in town.
There are also a number of beautiful old masonry Victorians.
At the west side of the canal you will find the local history museum, the Maryboro Lodge. This was once the home of James Wallis, an Irish immigrant that helped settle the town building it early nucleus including its saw and grist mills. The home was built in 1837 and was once home ancient oak grove.
Lindsay (Lock 33)
The main settlement of the Kawartha region, Lindsay is the focal point of this post. The town has a stock of old masonry homes and a larger (and livelier!) downtown core then the adjoining settlements.
The foremost attraction on town is the Kawartha Lakes Museum & Archives, witch was once the city jail. If you are up for it this is by far the best museum in the region featuring a multitude of displays ranging from history to art.
By far the best exhibit is the one on the old jail. Built in 1863 and opened until 2003, it went from state of the art to outdated very rapidly. This is a place full of stories for you to discover, and part of the jail has been restored so that you may experience it as it was.
The are a few landmark buildings in town, including the old armoury.
As well as a public library near the war memorial.
The downtown area deliniated by the rivers curvature, revolves around Kent and Russell streets.
There are a few businesses as well as 19th and 20th century masonry structures, typical of an Ontario downtown.
On the north side of the downtown core, you will find McDonnell / Old Mill Park an area lining Lock 33.
It is in this area that you will find the ruins of the old stone mill. This is a pleasant area to walk you dog in and well worth a stop if you have time 🙂
Conclusion
This may not be the most glamorous region of Canada but it can make for an enjoyable visit if you come with an open mind, especially if you take in the old jail. Enjoy!
