Lake George & Bolton – The Southern Tip of the Adirondacks
This article should be read in conjunction with my previously released Champlain post as well as Saratoga.
Why spend a weekend at Lake George, I was asked? I remember stopping at Six Flags Lake George as a child and enjoying myself. I was in the Upper Adirondacks the previous year and had such a good time that I had planned to return again the following year, but to a new location this time around. I remembered my family stop at the Six Flags Lake George Amusement Park and decided that it would be fun to see the actual town this time.
Table of Contents
- Hearthstone Point
- Lake George
- Bolton Landing
- Queensbury (Six Flags Lake George)
- Other Day Trips
- Conclusion
Hearthstone Point
Looking at campgrounds in the vicinity of Lake George, I had a difficult time choosing between camping at Hearthstone or Moreau Lake State Park. Luckily for me, Moreau booked out and the choice was made for me. Although it’s a smaller campground it is only a ten minute drive from Lake George and not significantly more than that to the town of Bolton Landing. This campground is a hidden gem, it is in a wooded area right on the water with a small beach. The only disadvantage is that you are located beside the 9N, a busy local roadway. If you book a site choose one away from the road.
From the campsite it is easy to go swimming in the lake. I visited in late august so the water was warm and clear, yet still perfectly refreshing on a sunny day. Something to keep in mind for those planning to drink is that a shuttle into town runs all summer long along the 9N. A stop is located at the entrance of the campground and makes the rounds every so often.
For those of you planning on visiting Saratoga Springs, to the south of Lake George, Moreau lake may be a better option.
Lake George
The slogan for this lakeside town is “The Original Vacation”, and for good reason. In the 1800’s the town experienced a massive surge in visitors. Ideally located at the southern tip of the Adirondacks, with easy access to the park, Lake George was the greatest beneficiary of this newfound wealth.
These “vacationers” came after reading the works of H. H. Murray, a preacher that spent the bulk of his time in the Adirondack mountain chain. Known as the father of the outdoors movement he popularized the term “vacation” and made the American people fall for the wild wilderness of the Adirondacks.
Much like the Champlain Region, the Lake George area lies between Albany and Montreal. In this case the town of Lake George is located at the southern tip of the lake of the same name. It is connected to Lake Champlain to the north though the La Chute River, a channel that connects both lakes. Although it may not seem like it today, the region was once highly prized by the British, French and American Empires due to its geographical position.
A Brief History:
Colonial Period
At first occupied by Mohican tribes, the regions was discovered by Samuel De Champlain in 1646. The French named the lake “Lac du Saint-Sacrement “, a named that did not stick after the British occupied the site during the Seven Years War (That would be the French and Indian Wars for American readers). The British victory here, in 1755, at the First Battle of Lake George would be their first against French forces in North America. To consolidate their newfound territory the British renamed the lake in honour of George II and built Fort William Henry. These gains would prove to be short lived.
In that same year the French, under the leadership of the brilliant general Montcalm, built fort Carillon (Ticonderoga) nearby. In 1757, the French along with their native allies, came back to take Fort William Henry. They succeeded, burned the fort down and forced the British to retreat to Fort Edward. This British march was characterized by a brutal incident where native allies of the French massacred the surrendered British soldiers against orders from Montcalm who had promised them safe passage.
In 1758 Robert Rangers, an irregular force of the British army, responded with their own attack on Fort Carillon. Inspired by the guerrilla tactics used by native Americans, the unit gained much much notoriety. The present day US Army Rangers are named after the unit. Lake George remained an important settlement after the war. The town was a prized strategic position during the American Revolution but did not see military action.
Development as a Tourist Center
The area remained relatively calm until the tourism boom of Tourism boom of the late 1800’s when such luminary families as the Roosevelt’s, Vanderbilt’s, Whitney’s and Rockefeller’s graced its shores. It is around this time that the construction of the current town of Lake George and the Sagamore Hotel complex in Bolton takes place. Artists began migrating to the region and Lake George was very prosperous. Much like what happened with the “nouveau riche” in Newport, this all changed with the advent of income tax and other forms of taxation on the rich. They could no longer afford their sprawling estates and with the introduction of air travel, their money went elsewhere.
Luckily, Lake George was able to appeal to a new demographic of people, the middle class. With their growing income and buying power, it was an attractive market and one that would cement the moniker “The Original Vacation”. The 1950’s coincided with the creation of the Interstate Highway system, a factor that surely helped the town grow its tourism potential. People from downstate NY had become interested in the Adirondacks due to it’s portrayal in the popular media of the time. They dreamed of wilderness and adventure, something that had suddenly become quite convenient with the opening of Highway I91. This highway, connecting the city of Montreal in Canada to major centers in New England, passes right to the the base of the Adirondack Park. For most this meant a stop in Lake George and the quiet town of Lake George would be ready to greet them… and their money. This period sees the boom in the accommodation industry as well as the leisure business.
Fun Fact
US President Thomas Jefferson praised Lake George for its beauty.
What To Do
The last time I visited the Lake George region, I found it to be stuck in time. The area had a 1950’s feel that was charming, albeit off-putting when you realized that it would have a hard time competing with the newer mega attraction being built elsewhere in the state. The amusement park has gone though a large revamp lately and so has the town. It now no longer seems tired but lively, without sacrificing what got it there in the first place.
As an aside I’ve never found people from New York State to be particularly polite or welcoming. I did find that Lake George breaks that stereotype. People here are excellent, must be something in the water!
In Town:
When driving into town the first thing you will notice is the large proliferation of motels. Unlike the stereotype of the run down, out of date motel, these are nice. They have the charm of their 50’s heyday, while still being updated and maintained. Not a bad choice for those that don’t want to go camping. Many are along the water and for the ones that are not, they often have a pool.
One of the main attractions in town is the Million Dollar Beach. This sand is named for the fact that its construction necessitated a million dollars worth of sand. If you want my honest opinion, the beach is busy and overrated. There are other, more secluded, spots to go for a swim at. Instead, keep your swim trunks for latter and walk to the grass field right behind the beach. This is Battlefield Park.
This park was home to both the 1755 and 1757 battles of Lake George. (3) Three statues can be found on the site; one is located at the wooded area in south of the battle field, the second at the edge of the wooded area and the third one a small hill to the east side. The statue located in the woods is of a Mohawk warrior, the Mohawks served with both the British and French armies and often formed friendships with the colonial powers. The statue on the hill is that of the British General William Johnson with King Hendrik of the Mohawks. The last is of Father Isaac Jogues, the French missionary who dubbed the lake “Lac du St. Sacrament”. On the hill you can see the exposed foundation of a stone fortification that was never completed. While poking around the stockade, I ran into a large Muslim congregation having a picnic on the site. Since it is a state park, there are barbecues around the property, and many campers and community groups take advantage. Don’t be afraid to bring your lunch!
Since you just visited the Battlefield Park you may as well visit Fort William Henry and the Fort William Henry Hotel. The fort is a 1950’s replica of the original burned down by the French. The site is now living history museum and demonstration with actors are held here. I was disappointed in the Hotel. Although I did not stay here I did visit the grounds since I needed shade from the sun. The new hotel pays no tribute to the previous hotel. The grand old building, originally built in 1909 (an earlier iteration dates from the 1850’s), was a jewel. New ownership demolished it in 1969 without any remorse. Only the dining room survives, and what a shame that is.
Back on the waterfront there are quite a few things to do. One of these is to take a historic steamship on the lake. This was a lot of fun, I loaded up on morning mimosas and cruised down the lake on a boat called the Minne Ha Ha. I had a blast taking this ship early in the morning. I purchased a few breakfast mimosas and enjoyed the summer heat from the top deck. While cruising the lake, the loudspeakers give you a history of the area. Every so often the steamship lets off its steam whistle in song or even to greet cottagers.
Other activities in town include a wide array of rock concert at the lake auditorium as well as live music playing at most of the waterfront bars. As well you can parasailing on the lake. It is expensive but that obviously does not deter people as you will see people up in the air at all hours of the day. Some of the more outdated attraction include the house of horror, a wax museum. There are many shops, bars and even a small outdoor market. The 1845 courthouse now serves as a small history museum.
Just outside of Town:
One of my favourite things to do is Prospect Mountain. A walking trail will take you up the mountain for free or you can drive and pay the roadway toll. From the summit, at 610m, you have a wonderful view of the area. The coolest thing to do it to check out the charred remains of a ruined mountain house at the top. Originally built in 1895, it was designed to served wealthy guests who would take the attached cable car to the top. At night they would be hosted in the dining room and dancing would take place. Revenue for the property maintenance was to be generated by the cable car but as admission declined the property ran into financial difficulties. The house burned down in 1932 and the charred stone ruins can be seen nearby along with the rusty cable car equipment.
If you are tired out you can hit the local Adirondack Brewery. Between you and I, the beer is horrible. If you want good beer, drive to Bolton and check out the microbrewery there. (Or read my post on The Best Breweries in Upstate NY)
Bolton Landing
Founded in 1799, Bolton is the home of the historic Sagamore Hotel. It was built in Victorian style and located on Green Island, just outside the modern town of Bolton. This area feels a lot more secluded than Lake George, as it is located on a single lane regional road (9N). The town seems to be filled with either cottagers or wealthy hotel guests.
To get to the Sagamore Resort turn off the main street on Sagamore road. From there, you must follow the road all the way to Green Island and cross the bridge. Before crossing you will see a boating dock on one side of the Chanel and on the other a historic plaque with a pretty stone bed and breakfast. The plaque indicates that this was the home of George Reis, the one-time owner of the fastest boat in the world and the champion of the Boating Word Cup in 1933, 1934 and 1935.
The boathouse, doubles up as a gas station is a very busy spot. You will see people sitting on the dock having beers and pulling in with their boats all day long.
When on the island you will see the Sagamore tower beckoning you in. The island includes many amenities such as a kayak club and tennis course but the hotel is the main feature. Built in 1883, the white painted, L shaped building is a nod to a bygone era. The richly decorated interior features a beautiful wood dining room and a luxurious bar.
The outside features a perfectly manicured lawn and a lakefront patio. Fell free to walk around the property, it is open to visitors, with the exception of the waterfront restaurant.
The inside of the hotel was not very busy when we were here. It was beautiful outside and much of the rear yard was filled with guests enjoying the weather. If I had the money I would definitely spend a night here, legend has it that the hotel is haunted if you believe in such things (I don’t)!
When heading back into town, there is a small war memorial by the Bolton Baptist Church.
On the main street you can find many shops including an antique store with many old signs. There is a small local history museum and an excellent brewery. If you are here on a weekend night there is the possibility that there will be some live music.
Other sights include a stone “castle” up in the hills that you can rent on air bnb. You can’t access the property as it is on a private road but I still snooped around anyway. There is also a few public beaches and an opera museum (not my thing).
Queensbury (Six Flags Lake George)
Returning to this amusement park after so many years was rather odd. The park and the attractions have hardly changed but additions have been made to keep the experience fresh. Across the street a 1950’s diner and ice cream stop still stands as well as a drive-in movie theater. I remember visiting this theater as a child and getting an ice cream cone bigger than my head. I was glad to see that it hasn’t changed at all.
Pulling into the park I could see that it has undergone a massive redevelopment. A new indoor waterpark and resort has been added as well as a restaurant or two. The park itself has hardly changed, the same outdated decor still hangs and the aging coasters still attempt to thrill. The waterpark looks like it now draws the majority of the visitors and I can see why. Its modern, clean and fun! They have the big bucket that dumps water on you and many slides.
As much as the coasters at this park are forgettable, “The Comet” coaster is a must ride. Built in 1948 for the Park in Chrystal Beach in Canada it has undergone extensive reconstruction and the steel truss coaster is now the premier historic coaster in the Adirondack. One thing that surprised me was how fast this coaster goes! Beyond expectation!
Other Day Trips
Saratoga
This quaint spa town is located nearby. The town is home to a racetrack that is the crown Jewell of horse racing in New York State, a state park that offers a history of the spa town and pretty shops that will keep you busy. Come see why Saratoga is a top rated attraction
Champlain
From Lake George you can easily access the historic Champlain region of New York State. You can visit historic fort Ticonderoga and Ausable Chasm, “The Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks”. Enjoy one of the most pristine and untouched parts of New York State.
Conclusion
Although Lake George is not the sexiest destination known to man, it is in fact well worth the time to come see it. The region is packed with activities for people of all ages and with varying interests. Whether you need a getaway in nature or want a thrill, Lake George is the place for you.
