Lake Bled – Better than Austria at a Fraction of the Price
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From Ljubljana to Bled:
Located a mere 35km from Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, Lake Bled is a great option for a day trip. The enchanting fairy tale destination is nestled by a ring of hills blessing it with the dramatic backdrop of the Austrian Alps. The bus ride can be made within the hour and has many departures throughout the day.
The area, famed for its thermal springs, became a destination for tourism in the 19th century and hotels began to appear around the lake. At this time the town developed world class medical centers and the elites from Vienna began to take notice.
The bus stop in Ljubljana is located just north of the old town, beside the train station while the station in Bled is within a short walk of the lake. This is convenient for those travellers without a car.
A Brief History:
Bled, sometimes referred to by its German name, Veldes, was first mentioned as early as 1011. Slavs settled here in the seventh century establishing the principality of Carantania. They would be conquered by the Germanic Franks in 788. Since the area was of minor importance, the administration of the territory was gifted to the Bishop of Brixen and his successors for their services to the imperial crown. Due to their oppressive leadership style, the prince-bishops provoked a pan Slovene revolt which the peasants of Bled joined in 1515.
In 1808 it became part of Austria, briefly passing into Napoleon’s hands as part of his Illyrian Provinces before being returned to Austria. The abolition of the feudal system did wonders for Bled and the beginnings of the town’s prosperity can be traced to this period. Ownership of the estate passed through many hands before finally resting with an ethnic Slovene in 1919, when a hotelier from Bled named Ivan Kenda bought the castle along with the lake. After the first world war Bled was incorporated into Yugoslavia. The House of Karađorđević, a royal house of Yugoslavia built a summer residence here, a tradition that Josip Broz Tito continued after the Second World War. During the Second World War the castle was used as a German headquarters.
What to do in Bled:
Well, you can try the cake for one. Bled is known for a vanilla cream delicacy called Kremna Rezina. It was introduced in 1953 at the Hotel Park by a Serb called Ištvan Kovačevič. The pastry has since gained acclaim and has become the dish of choice to sample while in town.
Now that you are done with your cake, you can go for a walk. The town revolves around a glacial lake, with a stunning the azure tinge. When walking from the bus stop you will see the Župnijska cerkev sv. Martina church with its white spire poking above the trees. Besides it is a rocky outcropping along with the castle that dominates the town from above. If you walk straight through the green park at the lake’s shore you will see a path that will take you all around the full circumference of the lake. This 8km trail will take you about 2.5 hours.
Home of the old Bishops of Brixen, the Romanesque castle has an entrance fee of 8 euro. It is the oldest castle in Slovenia, built in 1011 when it was gifted to the bishops by Henry II, King of Germany and Holy Roman Emperor (also referred to as Henry the Exuberant), as a reward for their service to him . Although the pathway was closed off, I snuck around the castle and got a few photographs of the lake from the back door. It was more than worth it. My travel companions were not impressed by me, but I didn’t care, they needed to loosen up a little.
Halfway around the lake there is a restaurant and a small jetty you can stop at. You can get a nice panorama of the lake from here.
Further along the trail there is a cafe with a dock. Here wooden flatboats called “pletna” can take you to the Assumption of Mary Church located on a small island at the center of the lake. This 17th century structure is a favorite for weddings. The oarsman that take you here all originate from the twenty-two (22) local families given the monopoly on chartering guests to and from the island by Austrian Empress Maria Theresa in 1740. The church is accessible by way of a long flight of stairs and contains beautiful old frescoes.
Lake Bled is a quiet place, come here on a sunny day to escape the chaos of the city and enjoy the sun. It is well worth it.
PS: Don’t miss Tito’s villa. It is located on the south side of the lake but can easily be walked past due to all the trees along the pathway.
As a fun fact this is not the only beautiful waterfront retreat that Tito owned. If you are touring around the Balkans as I was you can visit his other properties at Villa Galeb, Igalo (Montenegro) and along the shores of Lake Ohrid (Macedonia)
Gallery
Want to see more pictures of this pristine alpine wonderland? Here are a few that did not make the cut!
