La Malbaie – Charlevoix’s Summer Capital, a Newport of the North
Charlevoix’s Summer capital, the small waterfront town occupies a scenic bend in the St. Lawrence shoreline. Here in the shade of the town’s famous hotel and casino, gather the province’s most talented artists, writers, painters and such, escaping the heat of the urban Quebec landscape. Supplementing them was a contingent of wealthy tourists from the south of the border, including a man who would rise to the title of President. Maybe it’s time that you too, enjoy one of Quebec’s most cherished destinations.
A Brief History
French and British Colonial Era
The town was an early miss in Quebec’s history when in 1605 the intrepid explorer Samuel de Champlain neglected to stop it, failing to find anchorage. A settlement wouldn’t blossom until nearly a century later when a lumber exporting, fur trading and fishing town sprung up in 1688. by the early 18th century a local farm begins to produce meat and grain for the French King.
The Fall of Quebec City would cement the end of the French colonial era. British rule sees lands go up for sale though a system of private ownership rather then Seignorial holdings. Under this system the town expands. Although tourism would begin in 1760 when the Scottish feudal lords John Nairne and Malcolm Fraser would host visitors in their estates, the 19th century would bring about steamships for the express purpose of tourism. The steamship Waterloo being the first of these, starting in 1830.
It was John Nairne and Malcolm Fraser that would rename the bay, settlement, and river to “Murray Bay” after the British general James Murray (1721–1794), the successor to James Wolfe. This new name “Murray Bay” is in quotation marks as it was never the official name, just an accepted toponym for the town in the 18th and 19th centuries. Its current name La Malbaie remained in local used throughout those years.
Canadian Statehood and the Era of American Tourism
The town would continue its growth as a tourism centre in the 20th century when it set off the era of the fameux bateaux blancs (Famous white boats). This is a reference to the white colored steamships that would dock in town. It is in these years the the famous hotel and casino emerged, fed by a network of Auberges (Inns), restaurants and winter resorts along the coast.
A permanent wharf was built on piles at Pointe-au-Pic in 1853. The Americans would soon poor in to “Murray Bay” and with them wealth flowed. Starting in 1892, the future president of the United States William Howard Taft and his family begin summering in La Malbaie. He loved it here and he would visit every year, for nearly forty years, with the exception of the time he spent serving his term in office as president. Soon Murray Bay would be named the “Newport of Canada.” Tycoons, mayors, governors and Supreme Court Justices, are among those esteemed visitors that sought to escape the sweltering cities south of it. Many of these old U.S families still frequent the town, including the decedents of Taft.
Although the wealth seen in town is not quite what it was, the prestige still exits. In recent years the region was home to a G7 summit, a testament to its idyllic beauty and time transcending appeal.
A Note on Taft: The former president was a beloved figure in town, and was loved by the locals. They revered to him as “le petit juge” (the little judge) and would greet him by lifting their caps to him as he drove by. When he passed they lit a candle for him, and when betrayal by Theodore Roosevelt they spat, in disrespect to the latter. A funny anecdote is they would also perform skits in the winter where Taft was played by the most rotund villager.
What to do in La Malbaie?
There are actually two main centers to the city, the first is located on the mouth of the Malbaie River in the bay inlet and the second is located to the south, it is called Pointe-au-Pic and is built on a point overlooking the bay.
There is a plethora of things to do in La Malbaie, as it is a world renewed tourism center served by scenic train, Le Train de Charlevoix. This train terminates in La Malbaie not far from the casino, where the wharf is located and where the Casino/Chateau Richelieu is located.
Explore the La Malbaie City Center
The city center of the township is located where the bay meets the river. It is home to a pretty stone church as well as a traditional main street.
It is best seen from the roadway across the river (to the north) or from the cemetery near that roadway.
Walk Out on the Malbaie Waterfront
When the tide goes out, the muddy shore bottom become a popular walking area.
Pointe-au-Pic
This neighbourhood surrounding the casino and train station is one of the prettiest in Quebec. This is where the wealthy Americans built their cottages and where many still summer to this day. It is built right into the St Lawrence bank and features pubs, churches and beautiful homes with views of the river.
Visit the Musée de Charlevoix
This art and ethology museum located in Pointe-au-Pic cn make for an interesting stop.
Manoir Richelieu and Casino of Charelevoix
The crown jewell of the town, this is the place to be! First constructed in 1899 and a luxury accomodation with 250-rooms, it soon became a popular summer destination. It unfortunately burned down in 1928 and was rebuilt for the 1929 summer season. The Manoir Richelieu has it own golf course and casino attached to it.
The current hotel structure was built in Châteauesque style (to look like a french chateau from the Loire Valley), by architect John Archibald and was once owned by the Canada Steamship Lines.
The hotel promenade offers sublime view of the St. Lawrence estuary, and features cannons on the overlook.
Jardins de Quatre-Vents (Four Wind Gardens)
Visiting this word renowned garden is a tricky proposition, it is only open a few times a year and tickets sell out fast, so book in advance! The private gardens are among the best in Canada and includes an old seigniorial mansion type house. The highlight is a hedge garden with a french styled tower and pond. This is not to be missed, if you can even get in!
For more information, you can visit their official website here.
Jardins de Cap-à-l’Aigle (Gardens Cape of the Eagles Garden)
Just a small lilac garden near the water on the north side of the Malbaie bay. There is a waterfall nearby.
Astronomical Observatories and Charlevoix Meteorite Crater
This location is host to a small walk with information on our solar system, with a museum detailing the story of the Charlevoix meteor crater.
The Murray Bay Golf Club
Third oldest gold club in north America its chairmanship was once occupied by U.S. president William Howard Taft (1914).
Site Patrimonial de la Montagne de la Croix (Clermont Belvedere)
This cross serves as a belvedere hosting 360 degree views of the town of Clermont, the Malbaie river valley, and the Charlevoix mountains. On a clear day you can see out to the St. Lawrence. There is some historical placards detailing the history of the regions lumber industry.
Forge Menuiserie Cauchon
Housed in an old wood building, this museum offers displays and informs visitors about the work of blacksmiths in the 20th century.
Transportation
The town is serviced by the scenic Charlevoix train, a railway following the St. Lawrence River, and by car.
Where to Stay
Although I have never stayed here, the historic Le Manoir Richelieu and casino is one of the premier luxury hotels in Quebec, even Canada. Alternatively there is a camp site just north of town on the river or you could stay in town.
Day Trips
There is a wealth of things to do from Charlevoix, much of it in the great outdoors.
Baie-Saint-Paul
Located in the heart of the Charlevoix region of Quebec, not far from the water and the endless rolling hills and mountains for north of the St. Lawrence, sits the quaint town of Baie-Saint-Paul. A refuge for skiers and hikers, it is a lively community with nightlife and a worthwhile artistic scene. For more information click here.
Les Éboulements
A small town not far from the St. Lawrence with an old Seignorial Mill and a quaint hike through farm fields. For more information click here.
Park des Grand Jardins
An underrated park with towering hikes overlooking deep valleys.
Skiing at Le Massif de Charlevoix or the Mont-Sainte-Anne
These ski hills are both worth your time, and offer great views of the St. Lawrence river, particularly Le Massif that is home to a triple black diamond.
Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie
The best hiking area in Quebec, this park is located in a mountain gorge. Its pictures often appear in tourism guides for the Charlevoix. For more information click here.
Conclusion
Charlevoix’s summer capital is exactly what one would expect from it. The waterfront town and its famous hotel & casino team with the upper crust of Quebec society and in the town its writers and painters take residence, witness to the Chalevoix’s beautiful landscapes. Enjoy it!
