Košice – Eastern Slovakia’s Surprisingly Urbanized Metro
Located in the far eastern reaches of Slovakia, is a city with flair, both style and substance. Home to the oldest Marathon in Europe (and third in the world!), its name will not be familiar to most travel aficionados. Yet Košice is an absolute delight. Populated a grand avenue, filled with monuments of cultural importance, it still retains its playful nature and is a surprisingly great place to enjoy a unique European nightlife.
Table of Contents
Geography
Built on the river Hornád, Košice is located at an interesting juncture in the geographical landscape. The city is located both near the near the border with Hungary, to the south, and Transcarpathian Ukraine to the east. (Once part of Czechoslovak). It is also part of the eastern end of the Slovak Ore Mountains.
With a population of over 200 000 people, Košice is the second-largest city in Slovakia (only after the capital Bratislava). It serves as a hub for the eastern part of the country, host to many transportation nodes such as an airport offering discount flight carriers and ground based transportation.
A Brief History
An in depth look at Košice reveals a city with a vibrant and sometimes grim past, with many stories to tell. Once known under the latinized Cassovia, the city played part in many page turning events in Hungarian History. Its original named was Villa Cassa, derived from the Slavic name Koš.
Great Moravia and the Hungarian Kingdom
Although settled by the Slavs, staring in the 7th century, the city itself took root under Hungarian Rule, as the Magyars would own all of Modern day Slovakia after the demise of the Slavic Great Moravian Kingdom.
Like many cities in the Kingdom of Hungary, Košice get its big break after the 1241 Mongal invasion of Hungary. This devastating event put Hungary into ruin and forced King Béla IV to rebuild his nation. He chose to invite German colonists in this endeavour and the city was divided into two halves Lower Kassa and Upper Kassa, now the circular old town you see today, divided by the main square. The city was made a Free Royal Town and was gifted privileges by the king. This helped attract craft guilds and the necessary skilled labour to build fortifications. In fact the first guild regulations were registered here in 1307. They were the oldest in the Kingdom of Hungary. The city was also part of the Pentapolitana an organization consisting of five most important cities in Upper Hungary (Bardejov, Levoča, Košice, Prešov, and Sabinov).
The 14th century was an eventful one for the city, as it participated in the Battle of Rozgony. Many of the structures we see today were also constructed. The city reached its peak under King Matthias Corvinus, settling in as one of the largest centers in medieval Europe.
Austro-Hungarian Era and Principality of Transylvania
The era after Covinius saw the Kingdom of Hungary fall into a sustained period of decline witch resulted in internal strife and a reduction in trade, both of which were felt immediately within the city. The city was besieged and even taken several times times over the 15th and 16th centuries before being incorporated into the Austrian Empire. The city was on the border with the Ottoman Empire and served as a military district near the front for the Habsburg dynasty.
This period saw religious strife as Catholics seized a Lutheran church and in reprisal Stephen Bocskay, Price of Transylvania took the town for the Protestant side. He was backed by the Ottomans, in order to sow chaos among the Austrian side. Future big name players in Transylvanian affairs, the future Prince of Transylvania George I Rákóczi and the Italian born Habsburg military commander Giorgio Basta both took part in events here. The city was returned to Austria after the the Treaty of Vienna (1606), in return for religious toleration. The city would again be returned to the Principality of Transylvania, when more anti Habsburg uprisings began. The city was an important city under Transylvanian rule, even seeing a princely wedding when Gabriel Bethlen married Catherine von Hohenzollern in 1626.
Half way through the 17th century the city was once more in Austrian hands and it became a center for the counter reformation. Yet Transylvanian rebellions were still common with a failed attempt to take the city and a successful attempt in 1682. The city also became home to the Royal University of Kassa, an institution that would last until 1921 and housed the Archbishop of the Hungarian city of Eger, while that city was occupied by the Ottomans.
The 18th century saw the Ottomans pushed back out of the Balkans and the city back in civilian control. There was “little need” for city walls and they would eventually be demolished. Unfortunately for the city, this rearranging of borders shifted trade routs and the city decline further in importance becoming an agricultural town. On the flip side it was the homes of the Hungarian linguistic revival, leading to the Revolutions of 1848, when Hungarian rebels too the city but were driven out by the Russian Empire on behalf of the Austrians. The regions Slavs of Slovakia saw in Russia the hopes for their own emancipation. Horse drawn trams came to the city in 1891.
Czechoslovakia, Soviet Union and the Modern Era
After the defeat of the dual monarchy, Austria-Hungary by the Entente powers in the First World War, the “Eastern Slovak Republic” of Czechoslovakia, was declared on December 11, 1918, in Košice. This was the long awaited Slavic emancipation. Czechoslovak Legion units would enter the city in 1918 but they would soon clash with the occupation forces of a communist Russian puppet, the Slovak Soviet Republic in 1919. The city was confirmed as part of Czechoslovakia after the Treaty of Trianon.
The First Vienna Award in 1938, ceded the town (and much of southern Slovakia) to Hungary and under Axis control over 12 000 Jews were deported to concentration camps. Jews had previously not been allowed to settle in town due to a 16th century law that had excluded them from being in the city after dark but their population increased after that law was repealed in the 19th century.
In January of 1945, The Soviet Union captured the town and made it the temporary capital of the Czechoslovak Republic until the Red Army had captured Prague. After the Second Word War war ethnic Germans were deported from much of Czechoslovakia. The Soviets outright seized the country in 1948 after which they tried to change the character of the city to suit it to their anti-bourgeois ideology. They industrialized and built massive iron works, helping to grow the population well over the 60 000 it had started with.
The city was the site of large demonstrations during the Velvet Revolution, which would bring down the communism regime imposed by the Soviet. There is some resentment in Eastern Slovakia towards the west of the country, as they feel like their contributions to this event are underappreciated. Under an independent Slovakia, Košice was now second-largest city in the country, home to a seat of the constitutional court, three universities and a new Archdioceses of Košice.
The Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022 brought a large influx of refugees fleeing from Ukraine. Due to their close ties to Carpathian Ruthenia during the Czechoslovak years, there is a sense of kinship with the Ukrainian newcomers, allowing for a minimization of disruptions from this brutal invasion.
What to do in Košice
Although the downtown is small, it is a wonderfully beautiful place that will have you taking your time to explore and enjoy the details. Every building has something unique or fun about it and it is easy to waste hours of your time just walking and enjoying the city for what it is.
St. Elisabeth’s Cathedral
Possibly the most beautiful building in Slovakia, this Gothic cathedral is the country’s largest. It dominates the central square and is impossible to miss. I would argue that is it possibly one of the most beautiful structures I’ve ever seen. But, I digress. From the south side, you will find a garden, a public square, a fountain and a smaller chapel that is part of the complex.
The cathedral itself was built from 1378–1508, in several stages and also received a few renovations in the last century. It features a large central nave and is dedicated to Saint Elizabeth of Hungary. It stands where the first church it the city was once located back in the 11th century. Slovaks are still fairly religious and you will find that mass is still a big deal here with both young and old.
At night, this area really comes alive with many people walking up and down the central promenade.
Hlavné Námestie (Main Square)
This is where all the action happens. At the south end of the square you will find a grate that allows you to look down at the old lower town gate. Obviously like everything in archaeology, it is buried under the modern city.
Working your way south you will find the cathedral gardens.
Once you pass the cathedral you will find the centuries old Urban’s Tower as well as the the tower bell, now on display. Yet this section of street is dominated by the State Theatre of Košice, a marvel of Neo-Baroque architecture put up in the 19th century. Keel and eye out for the Old Town Hall as well as an old medieval building called the Levoča House. It is in front of this building that you will find the Singing Fountain, a water and light display that plays in the evening.
At the opposite end of the building you will find the Fountain of signs.
As you work your way south you will find some interesting diversity of styles. of architectural styles including the Art Nouveau architecture at the Slava restaurant and the Church of the Holy Trinity, an old Jesuit building with twin towers. For those of you that like museums, you could check out the Slovak Technical Museum.
Don’t miss St. Anthony of Padua Church, the second oldest in the city – and a great example of the Baroque style.
Near the sign fountain you will find the city’s Plague Column. Dedicated to Virgin Mary, it credits her for ending 1709-1710 plague epidemic.
This is where the square comes to an end.
Eventually the Square will taper off and become Hlavna street where the tram runs towards the Eastern Slovak Museum. They had a neat exposed water channel in the center lane, not sure what the idea was but I like it!
Mestský Park, The Mikluš Prison and the Jakab Palace (East Side)
Heading east from the main square on Mlynska street you will find the Evangelic church of Kosice and a block north from there the Mikluš Prison, medieval buildings that once served as a prison.
If you follow the street down however you will come across the Jakab palace, a castle like buildings that is one of my favourites in a city full of beauties.
You can take a cast iron bridge, known as the bridge of love, from here to the park.
In the park you will find an old villa, gardens and a gazebo where bands will sometimes play.
Eastern Slovak Museum
At the north end of the main square, where Hlavna street ends you will find the most important institution in eastern Slovakia, the Eastern Slovak Museum. Constituting two large buildings it is home to a large nature museum and a history museum.
University District, Steelpark Museum and the Surrounding Midtown
East of the old town you will find a university as well as the midtown. Here the homes are their new or badly preserved compared to their downtown counterparts. This is a good place to see what Kosice looked like twenty years ago before the city was cleaned up. One landmark is the statue of Štefan Moyzes, Chair Matica Slovenska (one of the original Slovak cultural institutions).
The most important attraction here it of course the Steelpark / park vedy. Located in the south end of the city, the old steal yards include a museum and green space.
Day Trips
There are so many easy daytrips in nature, such as the Ore Mountains, so I will keep this list short and just mention one place. However do know that there are a lot of beautiful landscapes to explore in this part of the nation.
Prešov
Located north of the city, in Eastern Slovakia, Prešov gateway to ruined castles and old medieval towns that played host to fighting between Hungarians and Poles for centuries. Its medieval old town is similar, and also almost as pretty as Košice.
Conclusion
Košice makes up for its size due to its attractive and bustling city center. As the sun fades, its main promenade fills to the brim with people as they look to have supper, enjoying what is left of the warm summer weather. This is a city that gets by on charm, both human and architectural, allowing the visitor to take in its beauty one step at a time. The longer you stay, the more charming it becomes.
