Königstein and the Bastei Bridge – Exploring the Elbe Valley From Dresden
An easy daytrip from Dresden, the Elbe Valley’s eastern extents approaching the Czech border is magnificent. Tall soaring rock formation intersect with historic villages, railways and towns all the while the ancient river flows by them, knowing that it will outlast them all.
This is the touristic hear of the Saxon region and a must see for any would be traveller! This fact is echoed by German August von Goethe, an esteemed traveller and member of the gentry had this to say about Bastei and its surroundings as far back as the early 19th century.
“Here, from where you see right down to the Elbe from the most rugged rocks, where a short distance away the crags of the Lilienstein, Königstein and Pffafenstein stand scenically together and the eye takes in a sweeping view that can never be described in words.”
August von Goethe
Arrival By Train From Dresden
Rushing along the southern bank of the Elbe from the main station in Dresden train is a major rail line. Not only will you have a nice view from the vehicle but you can take the S2 line directly to Königstein station. If you wanted to you could continue to ride the train directly to the Czech border where you could hop on a train and experience the wonders of Bohemian Switzerland.
Königstein
From the train station you will find a ferry crossing if you wish to access the other bank, however for the sake of this post we are staying on the south bank of the river.
If you do cross however, you will be able to climb the iconic Lilienstein mountain, once home to a Bohemian castle.
The town of Königstein, itself is nothing more then a small hamlet but it is steeped in history. It received mention in 1379 as a settlement of the castle. For most of its early history, it belonged to the Kingdom of Bohemia, but eventually was incorporated into the Saxon. Today the town is a walkable with a few coffeehouses for your convenience.
The town was home to some industry as you can tell y the smokestack in town but now the primary industry is tourism.
One of the more interesting monuments in town is a mile marker with distanced to other cities. You will also be able to find a public fountain trapping nearby Springwater from the hills.
Hiking up to the Castle
Looming heavy above the town is Königstein Fortress, once a rock castle it was improved during Saxon time and at the time was seen as being unconquerable. The Saxon monarchs recognized this and used it to deposit valuables and as a retreat in times of crisis.
From the town square you can either take a shuttle up or hike. I prefer to hike as you will have a nice view of farmers fields, woods and even the castle itself… if you get creative.
Near the entrance to the fortress, where the ticket office is located, an elevator will take you up to the walls where a pedestrian promenade will allow you to walk its perimeter. From far these walls may not seem so high but when you finally arrive they combine with the steep rock incline to create a rebootable bastion on top of the rocky plateau.
Records of this castle go back to the time of King Wenceslas I of Bohemia in the 13th century. Its named, Königstein translates to the King’s Rock, an apt description of the massive sandstone massif its sits upon.
Sitting high above the Elbe the caste was helped control and grow the river trade. This location belonged to the Kingdom of Bohemia but was soon contested by the Germans in Messen, the predecessor to the Kingdom of Saxony. It was King of Bohemia (and subsequent Holy Roman emperor) Charles IV that had the castle signed the authority for shipping rights in 1359 after his stay in the castle.
The margraves of Meißen (meissen) took the castle in 1408 during the Dohna Feud, an act that was made official in 1459 during the Treaty of Eger (Cheb, present day Czech Republic, not the Hungarian city). This act settled the Saxon-Bohemian border.
Königstein retained its importance, despite the discontinuance of the other Bohemian rock castles in the region.
The castles evolution from a simple rock castle to an impregnable fortress took place from the 16th to the 19th century. By 1597 Prince-Elector Christian I of Saxony and his successor ensured it was the strongest in Saxony.
Improvements continued though the years, including its transformation into a star fort with zig-zagging stone walls and a treasury being added in the 19th century. It was also used as a country residence for the gentry. During the second world war a prisoner of war camp for allied officers was opened in the castle.
The main building of note is the one constructed over the main bastion and entrance to the fortress. Today it is home to the Museum der Festung Königstein, the history museum of the site. It is located to the very west of Königstein.
Inside you will find many displays from Bohemian times to the Bombing of Dresden, the old capital of Saxony, during the Second World War. I was really happy to see that many signs were in Czech, the native language of Bohemia.
At the center of the complex are the support structures, some of which indicates Königstein’s brief used as a monastery. The oldest building is a 13th century chapel.
Remarkably the fort did not have a well until the 16th century and rainwater had to be collected until a massive hole over 150 meters was dug into the rock.
Among the buildings you will also find the old military barracks dating from from 1694 to 1756.
One of the most interesting stories dates from August the Strong of Saxony (and King of Poland) a man of copious apatite for the finer things weather flesh or architectural splendor. He built the famed Königstein Wine Barrel (Königsteiner Weinfass the largest and best known wine barrel in the world. It held a capacity of 249,838 liters and filled with product from the Meißen vineyards, had to be removed again in 1818 due to its poor condition.
The fortress is also has a tie to the manufacturing of the first European porcelain.
From the fortress the small industrial lands along the roadway can be seen from above.
The east side of the structure is mostly forested and includes the zig zag short walls mentioned earlier. It is here hat you will get the best views of the town itself.
Before you leave be sure to check out the Friedrichsburg, a yellow gazebo on the north side of the fortress that offers fantastic views of the landscape.
You will exit the castle at its actual entranceway rather then the elevator you came in upon. Here you will find the drawbridge mechanism.
Looking back you will really get an impression of how impregnable this frontal bastion really is.
Train and Boat to Rathen-Bastei
From Königstein you can take the train back to the town stop of Rathen. This small town is located on both sides of the river, but it is the part of the town on the north shore of the river – opposite to the train station that you will need to reach.
Luckily the little hamlet on the south side the river is home to a historic ferry crossing. The historic Rathen cable ferry only costs a few euros each way.
From the flood plains you will see the massive sandstone formation rise from the water.
A lot of people come here on bicycles, riding along the riverbank, and as such you could always keep it in mind as a way to travel the Elbe.
Across the river you will find the town of Rathen, a hamlet that is overlooked by a small stone castle. This adorable town will be your base camp for Bastei, a short walk from the town.
Town of Rathen
This town will be you base of operation for trips out to the stunning Amselsee Lake or the famous Bastei bridge. The lovely stopover is worth a quick look around and includes the Old Mill of 1567, and several timber-framed houses. Unfortunately the castle you can see from the water is not accessible to the public.
You will surely enjoy the pastoral life in and around town with fields of sheep grazing away!
Hike up to the Bastei Bridge
Just north of the town, the main street bifurcates. You will want to take the westbound fork towards the rock formation in the distance. This will be the way to both Amselsee or Bastei.
A short walk in you will find a sign indicating the climb up to Bastei. This will take you through a pleasant forested area up towards the sandstone formations that you saw from the river.
As you approach the top the path will become more interesting as you weaver your way around the large sandstone rocks.
From here you will be privy to great views of the Elbe river and the town of Rathen below.
Neurathen Castle
Once you reach the upper reaches of the sandstone formations, you will find a entrance to visit Neurathen Castle. Unlike Bastei, witch is free, this trail along a series of catwalks will cost you a few euros. This was once the site of a 13th century Czech hill fort but there is little left of it.
Today it offers an alternative view of the famous Bastei bridge.
Bastai
Speaking of which, Bastei stands for the English word bastion, a reference to the previously mentioned castle. It has long been a tourist attraction, first mentioned in a travel publication in 1798 by Christian August Gottlob Eberhard. As leisure was developed Saxon Switzerland was explored and this spot became a place of legend.
By 1824, a wooden bridge was built to connect some of the rocks together which was replaced in 1851 by the present sandstone Bastei Bridge.
Among the many painters to take the “Painter’s Path” to Bastei, Caspar David Friedrich was perhaps the best known. His painting, Rocks in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains is possibly the best known of his works.
After you cross over the bridge, a secondary path will take you over to one of the many rock fingers in the landscape where a panoramic view of the Bridge will be offered.
Carl Heinrich Nicolai, writer of the first walking guides on Bastei in 1801 wrote :
“What depth of feeling it pours into the soul! You can stand here for a long time without being finished with it (…) it is so difficult to tear yourself away from this spot.”
Carl Heinrich Nicolai
A visit to Bastei in a sense a journey through the history of the tourism industry itself. A alpine locomotive was planned for this location but it was eventually scrapped.
Do make sure to check out the Bastei lookout before you leave this section. Located on the west side of the bridge by the restaurant and hotel, is the highest point on this strech of the Elbe.
Conclusion
As easy as it is to get here from Dresden by public transportation, I’ve noticed that many people take tours. I want to assure the reader that is an easy day trip by public transit that wont break the bank! It makes for a perfect day out in the sun and is one of the highlights of Saxony.
