Karlštejn – A Bohemian Fortress Fit for a Holy Roman Emperor
Built to impress, Karlštejn is one of the most imposing symbols of imperial might outside of Prague. Home to the King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV (Charles of Luxembourg), it has not only withstood war, but also time itself to remain a potent symbol of medieval Czech society.
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Geography
Located south of Prague in the hilly river valleys of central Bohemia, this Castle overlooks a small market town. Located a few kilometers from a train station, it is easily accessible by public transit from Prague.
In fact, it is its proximity from Prague that made it an ideal residence for the Bohemian crown.
A Brief History
Dating from 1348, Karlštejn underwent continuous construction until 1365. Possibly conceived by a Civil Engineer, or by the french architect Matthias of Arras before his death in 1352, the project was supervised by its commissioner the emperor Charles IV. For those unaware, this is the same Charles that is credited with the commission of many of Prague’s most esteemed structures.
Built to house the imperial treasury including the Imperial Regalia, construction lasted for nearly 20 years.
The castle saw military action in later years, including during the Hussite War where rebels nearly took the keep. Although the crown jewels were returned to the castle after the siege, they were removed from the keep and stored in Prague after the Thirty Years’ War along with the archives. The castle became a holding of the Habsburg monarchy Emperor Ferdinand II during this period.
The castle finally fell to the Swedes in 1648, thereafter falling into a deep state of disrepair. This was remedied during the 19th century, then it was remodelled in Neo-Gothic bohemian style, becoming a national symbol in later years.
Exploring Karlštejn
Walking in from the train station or after finding parking if you chose to drive (I strongly advice against it in the on-season) you will arrive in town. A one street affair, the town of Karlštejn is nestled between the river and the protective embrace of hills on all sides, giving it a canyon effect leading towards the castle.
Speaking of winch, you will soon see it looming far above the rooftops of the village.
The market town now consists mostly restaurants, boutique hotels and gift shops, some of them built in the shape of gild homes.
The town’s heart is a roundabout built around a large tree with a statue at its base. The man is the statue has been hit by arrows, that now protrude his body. In a pink building nearby you will find a a small children’s museum.
From here the road becomes steep as it climbs up the mountain and you reach the castle gate. Like an onion, the castle’s defences layer until you reach the upper reaches of the structure where the big tower is located.
As pretty as the castle is it, it was made to be almost impregnable by siege alone, coming close to capture during the Hussite War when it was bombarded by dung and diseased cattle for over seven months. Once past the gatehouse a winding pathway will lead you up to the tiered castle, at the top of the promontory you will be confronted with three separate levels of defenses.
Before entering the first of these tiers you will find the castle courtyard where you will have a good view of the upper reaches of the structure as well as find the ticket office.
You can also access a lower tier, called well tower for amazing view of the town below.
This perched structure not only offers a commanding view of the landscape below, a perfect vantage point for defenders, but also a magnificent view of the castle (probably the best view of the structure that you will find).
Below is a small gallery of pictures with different views offered by the tower as well as the inside of the tower itself.
After entering the first tier, you will be ushered into the royal palace.
The palace is connected to the Marian Tower and the Big Tower (the highest tier) by two drawbridges (one for each tower) with the space between the towers serving as a moat.
To visit the big tower, once home to the treasury you need to book an aditional tour that is not available in the off season (the time of my visit). Yet the two other towers can be visited where a series of items are still on display, including old bedrooms, paintings of previous owners, old playing cards that guards once used, ect. For more information just visit the castle! It is absolutely worth your while.
Before you leave the village to return to the train station (or your car!), make a stop at the elevated church and cemetery of Karlštejn, located just before the river at the entrance of the village and on the western slope of the canyon.
It may be easy to miss but offers a sublime view of the landscape.
Conclusion
Although mostly barren on the inside, the hulking shell of the castle still dominates the landscape as a testament to its former grandeur. A visit to the structure will reveal not only the power that the Bohemian lands one wielded over the whole of Europe but also the beauty of the surrounding Czech landscape.
