Jūrmala – Latvia’s Beachfront Paradise
The Venice Beach of Latvia, Jurmala is the place to see and and be seen in this small Baltic Nation. This seemingly endless sandbar on the Bay of Riga with its pristine beachfront is located a mere 20km from the capital city of Latvia, Riga, it is an easy day-trip for those seeking a sunny summer escape!
Once known for its pine tree aroma, sea breeze, sandy beaches, mineral springs, wonderful sanitariums and spa’s, the town has adapted to changing times. You will find something for every sort of traveller here.
Table of Contents
- The Train Ride From Jurmala (A Mixup)
- What is Jurmala exactly?
- Where do I Get Off the Train Then?
- Exploring Jurmala
The Train Ride From Jurmala (A Mixup)
As the train pulled away from Riga Central Station, I felt a sigh of relief. It was a beautiful day out and although I could used to the sunshine, I felt it best if I had a refreshing dip in the Baltic first. From the platform I could see many if Riga’s landmarks which I must say was a lot of fun. I was with my friend john and we were already a few morning beers deep!
Taking the train west, you will have the chance to cross the river over the iconic Riga Railway Bridge. Dating from 1871, and a survivor of bombings during two World Wars, it is known for its semicircular steel trusses, it is the last remaining rail crossing in the city. The view of the river along with the Dom cathedral is simply stunning.
Partway along the journey we begin talking to a Russian guy on the train who asks us where we are going. My friend responds “To the beach”, he gives us a gregarious laugh and responds “The beach is that way” pointing in the oposite direction. Somehow the ticketing agent must have gotten confused and sold us tickers to Jelgava, a town in the interior of Latvia (and a worthwhile destination in its own right – it was the seat of the Dukes of Courland), instead of Jurmala. We thanked the Russian for this info and got off at the next stop.
From here we were able to return to a station outside Riga and try again! Good thing tickets are cheap!
What is Jurmala exactly?
Jurmala is not exactly one city but a collection of towns/resorts built on a sandbar separated from the marshy mainland by the Leilupe River. These towns include small resorts. From west to east, these include Ķemeri, Jaunķemeri, Sloka, Kauguri, Vaivari, Asari, Melluži, Pumpuri, Jaundubulti, Dubulti, Majori, Dzintari, Bulduri among others.
Where do I Get Off the Train Then?
The train will take you along the Leilupe for a beautiful ride, but you want to make sure to get off at what I consider the most interesting area, that at Majori. This station is built right on the river for a pretty view! This section contains the tourism bureau, the city museum and Jomas iela, a lively pedestrian area with bars and restaurants.
Exploring Jurmala
Jurmala developed as a spa destination starting in the late 18th century at first it was wealthy landowner but starting after the Napoleonic wars, Russian soldiers began to pour in, at first to rest and then with their families. The process was accelerated in 1877 with the opening of the Riga – Tukums railway. Under Soviet Rule it was a popular hangout for leaders Nikita Khrushchev and later Leonid Brezhnev.
The first thing you will see after getting off the train is the famous Lāčplēsis state, my boy Lac is better known as the “Bear Slayer”. The national hero is beast known through the work of Andrejs Pumpurs, and touches on the time of the Livonian crusades. I explore the life and times of the “Bear Slayer” in my post on Gauja National Park if you would like to know more about him.
Starting at the beautiful, blue painted, Sasliki restaurant you will find Jomas iela, the main pedestrian thoroughfare.
Along this street you will find many shops, bars and restaurants as well as the regular tourist trap fares. This street eventually leads to an intersection with a globe. Despite its touristy vibe the area is quite green and tree lined as well as cosmopolitan. Beyond the streets eastern extension is a park with an observation tower looking over the beautiful pine’s of Jurmala.
In the few blocks of subdivision separating the main street from the beach you will find beautiful wooden cottages. Some of these buildings belonged to famed Latvian Poets such as Aspazijas Māja and the Cottage of Rainis, considered to be one of the the nation’s greatest playwright. It was later bought by Aspazija, also esteemed for her writings. Others belonged to important interbellum figures such as Emīlijas Benjamiņas, a press baron (the first to publish in the Latvian Language) and one of the wealthiest women in Europe. As a quick aside I want to share her story, a remarkably moving one.
An opponent of both the Nazi and Soviet regimes shes was had opportunities to save herself but instead bravely awaited her fate. Her property nationalized, she was sent to Siberia, where the sixty year old would die of hunger in a forced labor camp. According to legend this completed a prophecy she had once been told by a fortuneteller where “you will die of starvation, lying on bare wooden boards”. A tough lady she was offered help carrying her suitcase when she arrived at the camp but she responded that from now on “she carried her own destiny”. In a cruel twist of fate it was her former employee and a her regular party guest/friend who would betray her. His name was Vilis Lacis, the new Communist Interior Minister…
The blocks of cottages will eventually give way to the beach (and the famous “The Turtle” sculpture). Here you will find the symbol of Jurmala the former bath-house of E. Racene. The former thermal bathhouse was built at the turn of the 20th century and was used as a hospital in Soviet times.
The splendid beach has been intruded on by the occasional resort and/or patio tents but there is plenty of space to sit down of go for a swim, especially as you move towers less busy sectors.
As mentioned previous times the resort was a popular one during Soviet times. Many canteens and retro bars from this time still exist and are worth getting a beer in.
