Jerez de la Frontera – Not Just for the Sherry (But Mostly for it)!
Oh Sherry, how the fine wine spills. Welcome to Jerez de la Frontera, the birthplace of the famous desert wine. Most Spaniards know the city simply as Jerez, one of the 25 largest cities in Spain, yet hardly known to the outside world. The city is a hub of industry rather than government, something reflected in its working class roots. The city is located in Andalusia, one of the most picturesque regions of Spain!
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A Brief History of Jerez
Although Jerez has been occupied since the prehistoric era, the city was not settled until the first century B.C. under the rule of the Tartessians, a minor kingdom. It was later a Roman colony of little importance called Asta Regia.
Medieval Era
During the fall of the Roman Empire the city was sacked by the Vandals and later the Visigoths before succumbing to the Arabs in 711. It was briefly the capital of a small Moorish state before its annexation to a larger Arab state based out Seville. It is during the Moorish period that the old town and defences were laid out.
In 1231, the Battle of Jerez took place and the Moors would be defeated by the outnumbered Christian Castilians. The city on the other hand was not conquered until 1261.
Renaissance and the Modern Era
Like the rest of Andalusia, Jerez greatly benefited from the discovery of the New World in 1492. Trade filled the ports of Cadiz and Sevilla, helping the town grow. By the end of 17th century, the wine industry had taken off.
Things to do in Town!
Visit the Cathedral and get Cultured
At the heart of old Jerez, built on a high point beside the Alcazar, stands the city’s cathedral. Architecturally, it reminds me strongly of the one in Sevilla. The view of the whitewashed buildings from the front of the cathedral is very pretty, as much as the building is in itself.
The Cathedral itself, a spacious buildings with a central dome, dates from the 17th century. Like in Seville the style is a mix of Baroque and Gothic, with a belltower off to the side. Several flying buttresses reinforce the tall outer walls.
The interior is surprisingly illuminated and a 15th century statue of the Virgin can be found within its bowels.
Alcazar de Jerez
The central palace/castle of the city, it was once the home of Moors who constructed it during the 11th century. Upon reconquest by Castile it served as the seat of the mayors of the city. Today you will find the remains of a Muslim mosque (converted into a church), large stone walls, a palace and a hammam bathhouse). The complex is part archaeological ruins and part active tourist site. Along with the cathedral its is well worth the visit.
Pay a Visit to a World Class Racetrack
For those interested in Formula One, Jerez is home to a world class speedway, the “Circuito de Jerez”!
Stop off at One of the Many Terrace and Explore the Narrow Streets of the Old Town.
Jerez has a wealth of interesting places to discover. Unlike Seville and other Spanish cities, the old town road network has never been modernized giving it a maze like feel. It is easy to get lost here, something that I would argue ads to its charm. There are great public spaces and what I enjoy about them is that, like the narrow streets, they are cramped and intimate. Most of the spaces are built around 15th or 16th century around imposing stone built Gothic churches, with the lot lines on the surrounding buildings awfully close to the belltowers and walls.
The most recognizable of these spaces would be the Plaza de Arenal, just south of the cathedral. The public space features a statue of a man on a horseback over a fountain along with elaborate tiling and a host of 20th century neoclassical buildings lining it. Just to the north you can access the Plaza Esteve via a pedestrian walkway. The public space features terraces and the Mercado Central de Abastos, a popular local market. Another cool space is the Plaza de la Asuncion where you will find the Palace de la Conesa de Casares, a neoclassical building. You will also find the 15th century Real Iglesia Church and other pretty buildings. On the backside of the church you will find my favourite terraced spot, the Plaza Plateros where you will get a great view of the Torre de la Atalaya attached to the previously mentioned Real Iglesia De San Dionisio Areopagita church.
West of the cathedral you will find two of the most popular wineries the Bodega Tio Pepe and the Budegas Fundador. On the east side you will find the Plaza San Miguel with the church of the same name. This is the second most important church in the city. This large religious structure can be recognized by its large and point central tower, it looks different than many of the other Andalusian religious buildings on the exterior.
To the north west of the cathedral you will find a large public events space, the Plaza de Belen, it was still under construction during the time of my visit. Continuing north-west from here you will find the remains of the city walls, the Bodegas Tradition winery (I wandered into by accident) and the stunning Plaza Del Marcado fronting in the Archeological Museum and the Palacio de Riquelme. Although this space has seen better days, the feeling of decay of the palace only adds to its charm.
Do Not Miss: Calle Ciegos, Jerez
Don’t miss this alley! Covered in thick grapevines, giving it a canvas over the cobblestone it is possibly the prettiest alley of its kind in Andalusia!
Try a World Famous Fortified Wine!
One cannot leave Jerez without a taste of its main export, Wine. Sherry is a fortified wine that actually translates to Jerez in Spanish, a word derived from the Moorish Sherish. The region has had a wine culture since at least the Phoenician era in 1100BC and the famous drink that bears its name has had a long history in this town. With the conquest of the city by the kingdom of Castile in the 13th century, exports to Europe took off. So popular was the drink that it made its way into exploration history. Christopher Columbus brought Sherry to the New World and Ferdinand Magellan, the man who sailed around the world, spent more on sherry than on weapons.
Distilleries and wineries can be found throughout both the city and region. Make sure to stop by the many distributors to try some samples. Warning they are quite strong! At these locations you are bound to find many UK residents! This is all due to Sir Francis Drake. The privateer sacked the nearby port of Cadiz in 1587. He was able to steel over 2900 barrels of Sherry, unloaded in the port and brought them back to England, thus popularizing the drink in the British isles.
Some of the best wineries to check out include the Budegas Fundador, with its magnificent courtyard, the Bodega Tio Pepe with its tree lined alley and the Bodega Tradicion. These are the only ones I have visited but many more exist.
Pay a visit to the Municipal Archaeological Museum
This small museum in an old whitewashed villa buildings is surprisingly well organized for a city of this size. On the inside of the well kept building you will find a classic pastern of black and white tiles and a central courtyard. Artifacts are displayed along the walls, including that of a Corinthian (Greek!) Helmet found nearby.
