Hong Kong – The Pearl of the Orient
Landing at the Hong Kong International Airport built on a large swath of reclaimed land off Lantau Island in Hong Kong, it felt as if I had entered into a tropical paradise. The hills were filled with dense green subtropical vegetation and the air had a wet humid feel that lingered around. After a cold march in Beijing, I would finally be able to bust into my t-shirts, a prospect that exited me as I waited to be taken to my hotel. The sparkling airport had replaced the old Kowloon airstrip where a landing between skyscrapers was required, a terrifying, yet seemingly exhilarating prospect. Nevertheless, the drive into the city was incredible massive retaining walls held back the sides of mountains ans our car zipped though viaducts and tunnels. Crossing over a series of bridges, I could see the skyline of my destination in the distance. It made me want to become an Engineer.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- History of Hong Kong
- Culture
- Transportation
- What to do in Hong Kong?
- Lantau Island
- Conclusion
Geography
The semi autonomous territory of Hong Kong, located in south-east China can be subdivided into four main districts; the New Territories, Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and Lantau Island.
The New Territories
The largest part of Hong Kong’s territory, it is located to the north of Hong Kong island and Kowloon. It is part of the Chinese mainland and was acquired via a 99 year lease in 1898. It served as a crucial expansion point for Hong Kong’s ballooning population under colonial rule.
Hong Kong Island
Where it all started, Hong Kong island is the Singapore of China. The mountainous plot of land is the heart of the city.
Kowloon
An original part of the Hong Kong concession, Kowloon is located on the mainland, facing Hong Kong island. The vastly dense city is home to soaring skyscrapers, the largest in the city as well is the massive high speed rail terminal.
Lantau Island
Part of the New Territories, Lantau island is located to the west of Hong Kong island. Home to the international airport, this is the most interesting part of the New Territories. The green mountainous plot of land shows Hong Kong to be a surprisingly green city and a great hiking destination.
History of Hong Kong
The most western of China’s cities, Hong Kong is a city that comes from humble beginnings. Don’t be fooled after incorporation into the British Empire this city quickly developed into one of the most impressive metropolises on the planet. This long period of growth outside the influence China may explain why Hong Kong has clung so strongly to its customs.
Imperial Chinese Era
Although occupied since the Neolithic period 6000 years ago (and possibly even more) it spent a large part of its history as a simple fisherman’s settlement with some rice cultivation (semi-coastal). The area was captured in 214 BC by the Qin Dynasty and incorporated into Mainland China. It had one belonged to the Baiyue, an indigenous tribe and after the collapse of the Qin state it passed to the Nanyue, a precursor state to Vietnam. The Chinese were lured to it for its mild climate and its access to the trade of luxuries from south east Asia, as such it is no surprise that it was re-conquered by the Han Chinese shortly after.
Although not a particularly important settlement, Kowloon was brief home of the Song dynasty court and their resistance against the invading Mongol Yuan dynasty. In 1279 the song were defeated at Battle of Yamen, bringing an end to the Song Dynasty. Hong Kong once again languished in obscurity.
The Five Ports (Colonial Settlement)
In 1513 the Portugese explorer Jorge Álvares, and shortly thereafter established a trading post. The Portuguese were expelled by the Ming Empire but by 1557 they had re-established relations with china and obtained a permanent lease on nearby Macau.
Under the reign of the Qing dynasty, the Kangxi Emperor restricted western trade to the nearby port of Canton (Guangzhou). The Chinese would export their goods but refuse to buy manufactured good from Europe. This in turn created a trade imbalance, one that the British corrected by selling Opium to the Chinese, correcting the imbalance but angering the Qing emperor. The Daoguang Emperor cracked down on the Opium trade after rejected a middle ground taxation scheme. This resulted in both the First Opium War (1839-1842) and the Second Opium War (1855-1860). During the First War, the British gained Hong Kong Island and in the second war they gained territory on the mainland, including Kowloon. Furthermore the Europeans gained significant concessions in trade, the Five Ports system had begun and Europeans moved in mass to them to trade carving their own “concessions” in those cities(ex: Shanghai). In 1898, the British Gained a 99 year lease on the “New Territories”.
The turmoil in China over the 19th and 20th centuries drove many native Chinese to find refuge in Hong Kong and the city grew rapidly.
The Second World War
A glittering gem of the empire watched nervously as Japan decimated China during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937) and inflicted unimaginable war crimes on its citizens. As a Canadian, I well versed in the horrors that awaited commonwealth solders (as well as civilians), either during the looting or in prisoners of war camps – I would like to preface this by saying that the Chinese suffered the worst of Japanese war crimes but it was not limited to them. Japan has only half-heatedly apologized for what it had done and still denies many claims.
In a bid to ward off Japan, Hong Kong was declared a neutral port, no matter was was on the 8th of December, 1941, leading to the Battle of Hong Kong. The British government had evacuated civilians from the area but nurses and essential military personnel remained, including a large contingen of Canadian soldiers (along with their British and Indian partners). Outnumbered 4:1, Hong Kong held out for 18 days but under heavy pressure, little water and with no relief in sight, it surrendered. Japan proceeded to rape, kill, mutilate or burn alive many nurses practicing in Hong Kong during the battle and prisoners of war were sent to labor camps where many perished. Treatment of Chinese civilians and nurses was just as appalling, yet resistance continued throughout the ocupation.
During the battle a Victoria Cross was awarded to the Canadian John Robert Osborn who jumped on grenade to save his fellow men and a Dickin Medal was awarded to a dog! Not just any dog though, Gander the Newfoundland dog gave his life to protect his fellow humans, carrying an enemy grenade back to the Japanese and dying in the explosion.
The Modern Era
Hong Kong rebounded and continued to expand quickly as refugees from the Chinese Civil War pored across the border. With a rising standard of living the economy switched to a service and financial one and by the 1990’s it was a leading center of Asia along with Signapore, Korea and Taiwan (see Four Asian Tiger).
In 1997 the 99 year lease on the new territories expired and all of Hong Kong was handed back over to China is exchange for primises of “One Country, Two Systems” where Hong Kong would be able to cling to its beleifs and have a limited form of Self Goverment. Since the handover these rights have been slowly eroded leading to massive protests (2019).
In 2003, the Sars paralyzed the city and brought the economy to its knees.
Culture
As mentioned in the history section, Hong Kong has retained a distinct flair unique to the rest of China. Although China is pushing for the adoption of the Mandarin, Cantonese still dominates south-eastern China. Although similar both languages have distinct differences. As a warning do not adress Hong Kongners in Mandarin, many would rather speak to you in English or in Cantonese as they are extremely proud of their unique cultural heritage. Also understand that China is slowly destroying much of the British architectural fabric, to the great dismay of residents.
Since Hong Kong is relatively free, you will be glad to hear that the “Great Firewall of China” does not extend to its territory.
Transportation
Hong Kong has a high population density, as such it should be no surprise that the city possesses one of the most dense transportation networks in the world.
For domestic tourists, the underground high speed rail station in Kowloon is one of the largest of its kind in the world and will connect you with your destinations in a rapid fashion. For local needs, the road network in Hong Kong is quite developed and you can take a car/cab to your destination but it would be easier (and often quicker due to the traffic) to take the Metro. The underground is well developed and lines crosses from Hong Kong island to Kowloon and almost anywhere in between. Alternatively, if you would like, you can also take ferries across the Chanel to Hong Kong Island. Finally for your above ground transportation, you can hop on a big red double Decker much like in London. For a ride to the top of Mt. Victoria you can also take a tram, with the largest vertical incline in the word (this is covered in the next section)!
What to do in Hong Kong?
Here is a comprehensive list of what to do in Hong Kong as sorted per city district.
Kowloon and the New Territories
The New Territories
Although the new territories are not of a particular interest to the average tourist, a visit to the “Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery”, in Sha Tin, to the North of Kowloon. This massive Buddhist temple will require a steep hike among thousands of statues of Buddha (13 000 to be exact!). At the top you will find the temple itself along with a thin, nine-story pagoda. Here you will find even more Buddha statues.
Kowloon City
Kowloon city has activities that are best done by night and others by day. During the day I recommend taking the Star Ferry across the waters to visit Hong Kong Island, the view was incredible. The historic ferry has been running since 1888 and many of the boats date from various periods of the early and mid 20th century. Alternatively you can charter a traditional Chinese Junk Boat to explore Hong Kong Harbor. Another activity I recommend is to visit the Bruce Lee statue, not far from the water and the avenue of stars paying tribute the city’s movie history.
At night, Kowloon really come alive. Start out by stopping by the waterfront for the sound and light show. Hong Kong island is fabulous among the lit up skyscrapers.
When done with the light show, go to Temple Street and attend the famous night market. Enjoy savory street food and the lively/crowded atmosphere. This cramped space, filled with advertisements is one of the most famous streets in China.
For history Lovers, I recommend a visit to the Former Marine Police Headquarters Compound, now a hotel. Built in 1884, it is a sublimely beautiful building with a stunning courtyard. Another worthy sight is that of Kowloon Walled City Park. Part of the territory handed over to Britain during their acquisition of Hong Kong island, it was originally a small walled Chinese city. It eventually became an extremely dense and corrupt slum, full of wall to wall high rise buildings. Razed to the ground in the 90’s it is now a city park containing remnants of the ancient settlement.
Hong Kong Island
Victoria Peak and Tramway
Any visit to Hong Island should begin with the breathtaking view from top of Victoria Peak. Although not the tallest mountain in the territory, it does have the distinction of being located right at the base of the city.
To access it you can either use your legs to climb up the hill or take the funicular railway to the top.
This tramway was built in 1888 and connects the central business districts to the peak. It operates at a gradient as high as 27 degrees so hold on for the ride!
Once up on the mountain you will find the historic storage and maintenance shed for the tram at No. 1 Lugard Road. Among the most expensive real estate in the city, you will also find the Peak Tower and The Peak Lookout Restaurant. The later is a Victorian heritage home from the 19th century. At the lookout itself you can see the dense skyscrapers from above. Make sure to walk around and enjoy the view!
The highest part of the peak is of course the Radio Tower but this building cannot be currently accessed. If you have a car, I recommend driving the scenic Lugard Road lookout. This scenic road will blow you away. Even better come up here at night during the hours of dusk or during the light show to be totally overwhelmed.
If you are interested you will find trails heading both south and west. The view provided of the southern side of the island is wild an still untamed, away from the skyscrapers. A mountainous green wonderland for you to discover. When the British first arrived there was but 3000 inhabitants scattered among a dozen or so villages, much has changed since then.
The Central Business District (Victoria)
In the actual city itself I strongly recommend a ride along the longest escalator in the world along with a visit to the modern Hong Kong Museum of History. The later traces back the heritage of the city from prehistory to modern times using massive displays, artifacts and scale models. Although the central business district you see today is just referred to as Hong Kong, it was once a seaside village called Victoria. Much of the present city is built on reclaimed land and the area of the harbor has slowly shrunk in size.
For history lovers there is little left of the original urban fabric unfortunately. One building that has survived the development onslaught is the aptly named Government House, located not far from the tram base. This residence served as the administrative center of the colony (the governor) from its construction in 1855 to the transfer to China in 1997. In front of it you will find the Duddell Street Steps, home to the last four remaining gas lanterns. Walk though at dusk for a truly 19th century authentic Hong Kong experience. Not far you will find the Anglican Bishop’s House along with with the Foreign Correspondents’ Club. Not to miss is the Hong Kong Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception and St Johns church. The later is a beige colored Victorian masonry building that was completed in 1849, making it Hong Kong’s oldest church. Another building the Central Police Station has been turned into a hip urban art gallery. For nightlife afigianoes hit the clubs at Lan Kwai Fong!
By far my favorite building in the city is the Main Hall of the University of Hong Kong, nestled in the hills eastern hills of the city. Ranked number three in Asia, it was founded in 1911 and expanded heavily refocused on the education of Chinese students during the 20’s. Although heavily bombed in the Second World War it quickly rebuilt and landed on its feet. Another building to check out on campus is Eliot Hall.
Hong Kong Island Villages
Outside of the central business district I recommend visits to the seaside towns of Aberdeen and Stanley, or alternatively just hike around the hills of the island. Both Aberdeen and Stanley are historic fishing villages with historic police stations and a variety of attractions. Stanley was the administrative center of the island when the British first acquired the territory in 1821, before the state designated Victoria (Central Business District of Hong Kong) as the new capital. In December 1941, the Canadians and British mounted the last defense of Stanley island from nearby Fort Stanley. There is little left of this historic point but you may visit the heritage protected gun battery if you wish. A better use of your time would be to visit the the Stanley military cemetery to pay respect the war dead. In town take the time to visit the Stanley market and the Main Street for all your shopping needs. Look out for Tin Hau Temple, built in 1767 it remains one of the oldest temples on the island.
The main attraction in Stanley is to explore the waterfront. Anchored by Murray House, the old officers quarter’s of the now demolished Murray Barracks, it can be an absolutely stunning sight on a sunny day. The historic structure dates from 1846 and was moved brick by brick from the central business district and placed in Stanley.
Take the time to walk along the rocks for a pretty view of the building. For those who would like to swim there are a few good beaches in Stanley.
Aberdeen is the largest of the Hong Kong Island villages. Oddly enough the Ming era village was actually the name of the city but Europeans interpreted it as the name of the island. Since then the name as has stuck and Aberdeen had to rebrand itself. Today the city is mostly know for its famous harbor. Here you can grab excellent seafood meals on massive floating restaurants like the aptly named Jumbo. Headlining the harbor is a series of modern buildings with entire openings made in the floors. Asking around I found out that it was made so that the dragon spirits could pass though, something that surprised me from the usually level headed and reasonable Hong Kongners.
Other things to check out is the junk boat city that has formed in the waterway. Here thousand of boats have assembled to create a settlement of over 6000 individuals, many selling wide varieties of street food. Aberdeen is also the home to Hong Kong’s massive Dragon Boat festival!
Lantau Island
A green oasis in the heart of the city, Lantau island is home to Hong Kong’s Disneyland as well as the Airport. Although development has accelerated in recent years it remains the wild and untamed side of the island where one could hike and loose themselves in the tropical thick brush. In the morning a thick fog envelops the island peaks and renders it impenetrable to the outside eye. The locals like it this way too, the marshes of Lantau have been a source of salt since the stone age and the illegal trade of this product with China made the islanders wealthy.
Among the endless hills of Lantau you will easily notice the giant Tian Tan Buddha rise above the treeline. An important center for Buddhists, this 34 meter tall Buddha is one of the five giant Buddha’s of China.
To access it you must climb 268, but it is absolutely worth it!
Much construction was still happening at the complex during my visit. Large pedestrian boulevards and plaza’s will draw you in from the parking lo. You will also find modern temples and monasteries built in ancient styles.
Leading away from the temple you will find the Wisdom Path, a series of 38 pillars with a great view of the surrounding area.
Inscribed on the pillars are prayers. This peaceful area is usually devoid of tourists as they stick to the Buddha area.
Leading away from the monument is a series of intense hiking trail leading all over the island offering great views of the Buddha and the surrounding landscape, including the beautiful water and natural features surrounding the island. One of these trails is the hike to the top of Lautau peak, the tallest mountain in the island and one of the tallest in the Hong Kong Territory. This behemoth measures 934 meters or 3,064 ft in height and is made of volcanic rock.
Although the island remains remote it is undergoing significant development. Make sure to visit traditional stilt homed (Pang uk) fishing villages such as Tai O before they disappear. Otherwise make use of the many beaches or visit the Tung Chung Fort. This military installation was constructed during the 12th century (during the Southern Song dynasty) by the Chinese government to prevent smugglers from shipping salt to Canton. It was occupied by pirates during the Qing dynasty and the Japanese during the Second World War.
Conclusion
By the time I left Hong Kong, it had quickly enshrined itself as my favorite city in China.and maybe even in Asia. It is a place distinctly more modern and democratic than the rest of the country and the social attitudes of the people reflect this democratic tilt. Enjoy Hong Kong for what it is, a Mecca where East and West meet and continue to evolve.
