Herceg Novi – A Taste of Montenegro

Table of Contents

• Trebinje (Bosnia) to Montenegro:
• Where to Stay:
• A Brief History:
• What to do in Herceg Novi:
• Conclusion:

Trebinje (Bosnia) to Montenegro:

My dad and I had left Trebinje in southern Herzegovina with a good afternoon beer buzz and food in our bellies. We had learned that the bus was not leaving until late in the evening so we did something that is only really affordable in the Balkans: We took a taxi to another country for a minuscule fee. We crossed the border handily, there were no cars lined up and the guards processed our passports promptly, giving them a short glance before returning them.  The crossing is located in the mountains and we were the only vehicle in line. Once in Montenegro, the climate quickly shifted from a warm dry heat to a warm and humid coastal one. The dry rocky hills gave way to new mountains, these one verdant and green and filled with goats, sheep and all sorts of animals blocking the road.

In my last few hours in Trebinje I had come down with a bad cold/flue, probably contracted from a group of Americans staying in our hostel in Mostar. The sea air helped unclog my runny nose and although I was sick it definitely helped soothe me a little. We rented a little apartment in the new section of town and it was nice to get away from people for awhile.

Where to Stay:

Due to the fact that Herceg Novi is a family friendly destination, there are not many hotels or hostels. What you will find is mostly apartments and a few guesthouses. Do not worry, the price of apartments here is much cheaper than in other coastal cities in Montenegro and in my case after having spent the last month in hostels, it was nice to change things up.

A Brief History:

Today, Herceg Novi a small city of 30 000 people, it is a popular attraction in Montenegro where families looking to cash in on the Adriatic climate can do so at great rates. Under Venetian occupation its name was “Castelnuovo”, a literal translation to English would give us “New Castle”, not a particularly original name for such an interesting place. Although much less known than the party city of Budva and the Cruise ship haven of Kotor, to the south the city has a long history and is worth the time to visit.

The site was inhabited since the bronze age by the Illyrians, then was conquered by the Roman Republic. When the empire split in two it became part of the Western Roman Empire and then later the Byzantine Empire (Eastern Roman Empire). In the 7th century the Slavic tribes moved into the area, eventually becoming part of the Serbian Empire under Stefan Dušan. The medieval town was founded by Stefan Tvrtko, the king of Bosnia in 1382 when he built a castle on the Adriatic shore. It grew in importance as a salt trading town when part of the Duchy of Saint Sava, a medieval Bosnian kingdom based in Herzegovina. Under the ruler the Herceg (Duke) Stjepan Vukčić Kosača it became the seat to his Dukedom and many important buildings were founded including the monastery of St Sava.

Shortly after the Ottoman empire would overpower the Herzegovinians and establish dominance for the next 200 years, with the exception of a brief period where the city was in Spanish hands. In 1687 the city fell into Venetian hands, they incorporated the city into their Albanian provinces, Albania Veneta. The Venetians invested substantial capital into the city, reinforcing the city defenses. That would not stop an annexation by the Austro-Hungarian empire. It was ceded to Russia during the Treaty of Pressburg. It then passed over to Napoleon and the French who promptly annexed it to his Illyrian Provinces.

In 1813, the Montenegrins, a rugged hill people that had resisted Ottoman invasion by living beyond the reach of the conquerors descended on the city. Shortly after they would have to give it back up to the Austrians. In 1918 the Serbian army occupied the city and were greeted as Slavic liberators, WW1 ended and Yugoslavia was formed. In 1941, during WW1 Italy occupied the city and it was retaken by Tito in 1943. In 2006 Montenegro ended its union with Serbia and is now part of NATO. Although this shift in policy has affected the relations between the two countries, the two nations still enjoy strong ties. Montenegro is a popular summer destination for vacationing Serbs and Serbia is a large market for Montenegrin products such as Nisksicko beer. Both countries are Orthodox and share an almost identical language.

What to do in Herceg Novi:

We stayed in an apartment in the nearby town of Igalo and walked along the shoreline all the way to the old town. There are a few beaches here but most of the shoreline is concrete. On warm days you can see many swimmers out in the water and children running around. If you are hungry you can find a good seafood restaurant or terrace almost anywhere along the shoreline. There is a long 6km promenade that leads right to the old town that is packed with places to eat.

Since the shores of the bay are steep, the main road the E65 does not run at waterfront level. It is uphill of the old town and requires a short climb. A small bus station can be found here. The small, one story, building offers connections to the rest of Montenegro. Tickets on these busses can be purchased for cheap, but a quick warning the buses lack air conditioning and do get quite warm in the summer sun.

When reaching the old town from sea level you will see a large tower and a stone pier, if you enter the town from the east you will see the town gate, a rectangular tower overlooking a neat public square with smooth paving stones and many ice cream shops.

While in the old town be sure to hit Saint Michael Archangel Church. Completed in 1911, this beautiful domed structure is the most impressive building in the old town. It may be small but it is absolutely gorgeous. Surrounding it are many patio tables as it sits in Herceg Stjepan Square or as the locals call it Belavista.

Explore the narrow streets and be sure to hit the sea fortress, a large tower guarding the old harbor. Visit St. Jeronim square and check out the beautiful church, then climb up above the old town to catch a glimpse of the beautiful limestone buildings glimmering in the afternoon sun.

Before you leave be sure to get a glimpse of the Kanli Kula castle. The price of admission may not be worth it if you have seen a few (trust me if you have spent time in the Balkans you have likely seen better) but the view is nice and the castle contains a pretty outdoor auditorium. The castle was an important prison complex for the Ottomans in the 16th century and its name translates to bloody tower. Above all of this is the Espanola fortress built during the short Spanish occupation.

Although the castles are nice, the most worthwhile thing to see while in Herceg Novi is the Savina Monastery and winery. Surrounded by lush vegetation, the sight is located just a short twenty minute walk from the old town on foot. From the monastery you will be privy to a magnificent view of the Bay of Kotor. The building was constructed in 1030 but was reconstructed by refugee monks from the Tvrdos monastery, near Trebinje in Herzegovina. The present structure was completed in 1831. Make sure to stop off and see the small church of St. Sava while here.

Conclusion:

Herceg Novi may not be the most prestigious destination in Montenegro but it is well worth the stop. Located near the Croatian and Bosnian border it makes for an easy base to explore or as a stop off on your way to Kotor or Croatia.