Helsinki – Finland’s Classy Capital by the Baltic Sea
Helsinki was not on the list of cities I felt compelled to visit. But since I was in Tallinn, I thought it be fun to take the ferry across the Baltic sea for a quick jaunt to the opposite shore. How wrong I was about the Finnish capital – this was a place radiating style and elegance, a place well worth staying for and a city with a sense of humour at that. Let me explain the later statement.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- History
- What to do in Helsinki?
- Visit the stunning Art Nouveau Train Station and Gain Access to the World!
- Indulge Your Eyes by Visiting Stunning Neoclassical Architecture and Great Squares in the City Center
- Visit Two Cathedrals for Two Different Religions (and one Modern Church)
- Visit the Old Port and Try Delicious Baltic Seafood
- Visit the Finish Islands!
- Iso Mustasaari Island
- Susisaari
- Kustaanmiekka (Gustavssvärd)
- Conclusion
Inbound from Tallinn
The morning ship from Tallinn took me past past pretty islands, crowds forming on the deck to get a look at the landscape. This is one of the busiest ferry routes in the world with multiple routes a day and the crowded ship shows it. A bar on board serves refreshments and the experience is pleasant.
The port installation in Helsinki itself is clean, modern and effective, a tram will even pick you up and drop you off closer to town of you take it. Otherwise you can walk into the center of town in a brisk half hour.
While walking down the international pier, you will get to see the playful side of the Finnish contemporary scene. An unusual fountain will greet you as you will see below, it is making and awful mess on the concrete plaza. Hey! It may be ugly but at least its funny!
Geography
Located at the southern tip of Finland, on a peninsula jutting into the Baltic Sea, the capital of the Finish people is often referred to as the “Daughter of the Baltic”. Outside harbour lie over 315 islands waiting to be explored.
History
Helsinki is a young capital city compared to much of Europe large centers, yet the region bears a long occupation by the Tavastians. These ancestors to the Finns established themselves in the region sometime in the Iron age
Swedish Occupation
During the 13th century, the Swedes would conduct a crusade against the Tavastians. Finland fell under the dominion of the Swedish king and the Catholic church. It was the Swedes who would found the city in 1550 under the direction of the prolific Gustav I of Sweden as a trading post on the Baltic Sea called Helsingfors. The settlement was meant to rival that of the port of Reval (Tallin) and was populated by a forced transplant of the bourgeois class from other Finnish cities. The settlement was at first usefulness and was almost wiped out in a particularly damaging plague epidemic in 1710. It was not until the construction of Sveaborg (Suomenlinna), a massive fortification complex offshore of the city, that it would stabilize.
Russia and Grand Duchy of Finland
Russia would press the Swedish empire hard and in 1809, during the Finnish War, the city would fall after a long and brutal siege. The Russian Emperor Alexander I of Russia (one of the few liked by the Finns) would move the capital from Turku to Helsinki to reduce Swedish influence on their new puppet state, the Grand duchy of Finland. After a devastating fire, Turku’s university was also moved to Helsinki and the city was rebuilt in a neoclassical style imitating that of St. Petersburg.
Independence and the Modern World
Finland took advantage of the Russian civil war in 1917 to achieve independence. Tensions and fighting with Russia would continue throughout the next decades as Russia sought to redress its position in the Baltic sea by annexing pieced of Finland. Despite this, the capital continued to grow at a staggering rate and even hosted the Olympic games in 1952. Trends in Finland followed closely those of other industrialized nations and the city grew rapidly and a rural exodus filled the city with new residents.
What to do in Helsinki?
For a European Capital of its importance, Helsinki’s city center is relatively small and allowable. From the port of Helsinki water ferries will carry you to many of the islands making for nice day trips outside of the hustle and bustle of the city center. If you are to visit any one thing in Helsinki make it Sveaborg, the massive Swedish fortification complex built on islands outside the port.
Visit the stunning Art Nouveau Train Station and Gain Access to the World!
The streetcar from the port will take you into the city center. I recommend getting off at the train station where you will have access to the metro station. Constructed in 1919, the station has been voted one of the most beautiful in the world by the BBC. The building was constructed to replace the previous structure as the fast growing city had outgrown it. The futuristic Art Nouveau building will catch your eye immediately! Clad in smooth granite, its distinctive 48.5 meter clocktower will stand out. The inside is just as grand as any cathedral, its cavernous arched interior imitating the grand structures of Europe. It is my favourite building in Helsinki.
Indulge Your Eyes by Visiting Stunning Neoclassical Architecture and Great Squares in the City Center
Helsinki is a modern capital for a modern nation with robust transportation infrastructure and a walkable urban environment. As such it would only makes has public spaces, dressed with stunning architecture, to match it.
My favourite of these public spaces is located just west of the Harbor Market, the Esplanade. This narrow green walkway dates from 1812 and has many statues on display. There many other great public spaces, like Tähtitorninvuoren where the observatory is located but the former is my favouritism.
If you with to see great neoclassic architecture look no further than the cathedral itself. At its base you will find a large square with the neoclassical University of Helsinki. This university was a gift of emperor Alexander I to the city and was completed in 1829. It was replaced the previous institute in Turku that had been previously destroyed by fire.
Other buildings of interest are thee Design Museum Helsinki and the House of the Estates. But the bulk of the neoclassical buildings can be found surrounding the port.
Visit Two Cathedrals for Two Different Religions (and one Modern Church)
Helsinki Cathedral
Just east of the Train Station, not far from the waterfront, you will find the most recognizable buildings in Helsinki, the Cathedral. Completed in 1852, it was originally called the Church of St. Nicholas, named after the occupier of Finland, the Grand Duke of Finland, Tsar Nicholas I. The name was rescinded in 1917, after the Russian Revolution, when the Fins took advantage of the turmoil to declare their independence.
The building sits on a high podium above the old port and is one of the major neoclassical landmarks mentioned earlier. Due to its height, sitting on the podium it rises above the old town to define the city skyline. In front of the cathedral you will find a massive square with many of the most important buildings in the city.
Uspenski Cathedral
The seat of the Finnish Orthodox church may be smaller than the cathedral but it makes up for it in charm. You may wonder to yourself why this orthodox building has carried on while the cathedral was repurposed. Location and scale surely has something to do with it. This church is a less prominent part of the skyline, is diminutive and is built in an eastern style harder to repurposed than the neoclassical of the cathedral.
The origins of the building are associated with a more progressive and loved Tsar than Nicholas I. As mentioned in the history, Alexander I was an important part of the development of the city. He decreed a tax be put in place to fund the construction of two churches one Orthodox and the other Lutheran. Eventually the orthodox outgrew their digs and this is building was completed in 1868 to supplement it. It was funded by private donors and completed during the reign of Alexander II. It is considered to be the largest orthodox church in Western Europe.
The church is built on a hill overlooking the port, as such you will get a fantastic view of the city from the top of its steps.
Temppeliaukio Church
The last major religious structure of note in Helsinki is of a more recent nature. Built at the end of the 1960’s, using natural stone, wood and concrete, it is interesting rather than pretty. The outside almost blends into the landscape as the structure is sunken into the earth. A large dome covers the main hall, the prettiest part of the buildings (it looks better on inside!). The centerpiece of the structure is an organ with 3001 pipes. It caused a large stir after its completion due to the fact that many young finish Catholics would have rather seen the large sum of money used for charitable causes instead.
Other Churches Worth Visiting
Helsinki has two other churches worth exploring, both of them just south of the port. One of these can be spotted from far due to its tall spires, St. John’s Church. It is located on a hill in the neighbourhood of Punavuoriin. The Gothic structure was designed in by an architect from Stockholm and completed in 1898. The second (and a personal favourite) is the German Church of Helsinki. This Lutheran church dates from 1864.
Visit the Old Port and Try Delicious Baltic Seafood
The port of Helsinki is the most stunning part of the city, and possibly the prettiest urban space in the Finnish nation. It is here that you find the ferry crossing to Sveborg and the Finnish islands. The cobblestone streets are home to a massive fish market.
I recommend grabbing a quick lunch here the fried seafood is delicious. Finland, like my native Canada, is a land of lakes, 150 000 to be exact. With access to both the sea and fresh water one could call Finland a fishing nation. That being said you should try fried Vendace (muikku), a small fried fish that is usually served with a serving potatoes of fried calamari rings. For such small sea creatures they pack one hell of a delicious punch. I still crave these delicious guys!
On the south west side of the port you will find Hakaniemi hall, a 1914 market building with a variety of vendors selling goods ranging from pastries, fish and produce.
On the east side you will find a modern building housing the Allas Café & Terrace. Go up the stairs to the terrace for a stunning view of the port.
You can also get a great view of the Ferris wheel from here.
But really just kick back, grab a beer and enjoy the view of waterfront!
Visit the Finish Islands!
As mentioned previously, you can take a ferry to many of the Helsinki islands. The most important of these is the Suomenlinna island chain where the massive fortress complex is located but this is not the only island worth visiting. The Korkeasaaren eläintarha zoo, founded in 1889, is also built on an island it ca be visited via ferry or by a bridge. The island of Pihlajasaari is notable as a recreation hub for locals but offers little to the tourist. Although not connected to Sveborg three islands are considered to be part of the complex and can be visited on seperate ferry rides. They are Särkkä (sv: Långören), Lonna (sv:Lonnan), and Pormestarinluodot (sv: Borgmästargrundet).
On Sarkka you will find the Helsinki sailing club!
Suomenlinna (Sveaborg)
Suomenlinna is better known by its Swedish name Sveaborg. While on the ferry to in, I began to shiver. The blue skies had turned to dark and as the boat pulled away from the city, I had the chance to see many of the surrounding islands, the city fading in the distance, yet still visible. From the docks you will be able to take a small ferry around the complex or just walk.
A stunning pink gateway will greet you into the complex.
The complex is composed of 8 islands, five of them connected by pedestrian bridges for a square area of 0.8 square kilometers. Two of the islands are located to the west of the ferry landing and the other three, to the south. The southern islands are the most interesting but all are worth visiting.
Insert map of islands in satellite mode
Iso Mustasaari Island
Near the front of the complex you will find a hostel and a small convenience store in case you plan on staying the night.
Sveaborg was conceived by Swenden after loosing chucks of Ingria (then part of Finland) t0 Russia during the Great Northern War. Russia would build St. Petersburg on the site of an old Swedish fort near some marshlands and become a great maritime power. After a few humiliations regarding Russia, Sweden needed to act! Construction began on naval defences in 1748 and then on the baroque barracks. A large garrison was housed here with a substantial civilian population.
Oddly enough, the first building you will notice after walking through the front gates is not a Swedish construction but a Russian one, the island church. Built in 1854, on a site planned for a Swedish church, this orthodox building was once elevated to the title of cathedral. It sits on the highest hill of the islands and as such sticks out of the landscape. At its base you will find a thick ship chain fence surrounding it, with cannons used as columns. You will also find the church bell. Cast in Moscow, the behemoth bell was once the largest in Finland.
The site was taken by a revolting Finland at the end of the First World War and the building was turned into a Lutheran church. Now a Finnish installation they decided to modernize Sveaborg, turning it into a lighthouse, making it one of the few lighthouse-churches in the world
This church is at the center of the island complex and was planned to be a vast public space. You will find wooden shacks, old administrative structures and officer quarter as well as fortifications. The real kicker was the massive parade grounds where troops would gather at the foot of the church.
walking south, yet staying on the same island you will come across one of the islands bars, called Linna if you fancy a pint. This is also where you will find many of the renowned Sveaborg Museums. The most interesting of these is the Military Museum, housed in an old masonry armory from the years of Russian occupation, it is home to a large weaponry collection. This museum will give you a good overview of Finnish Military history, including the famous ski regiments that held off a Russian invasion prior to the Second World War.
Behind this museum you will find the island’s historic prison complex, the fading pink buildings will give you the spooks!
Other museums include the Finish Toy Museum (I did not visit it, it was less interesting to me) and the Suomenlinna Museum, detailing this history of the fort.
This last one is where you will find the bridge heading over to the next island as well as the location for one of the island ferry landings.
From the waterway you will be able to see that you are approaching a heavily fortified part of the complex.
Susisaari
This last island was once two. The space between Susisaari and Kustaanmiekka was once occupied by a waterway but it was filled in during the Russian period.
Following the path at the end of the footbridge to the north you will walk along the fortification wall. This is the very heat of Swedish Sveaborg, the star shaped fortifications of the 18th century as designed by Eherensvard, a genius military engineer that spent his life designing the fortifications before passing in 1772.
On your way in you will come across several storage cells among an arched passageway.
Emerging from the stone vaults, you will get a glimpse at the center of complex, the great courtyard. At its center you will find a grave covered with a ceremonial helmet and shield. This is where Augustin Ehrensvard, the founder, lies. He was honoured by Gustav III, King of Sweden. Only seven years after his passing the fortress was captured by Russia. Today you can visit his original house, now a museum carrying his name. This part of the island was the old administrative center of the complex.
Just north of the administrative center, you will find the dry docks. This is the small industrial heart of the island.
Continuing south, you will enter Kustaanmiekka and its massive star shaped citadel. Along the way, you will encounter a small submarine.
Kustaanmiekka (Gustavssvärd)
Kustaanmiekka, or Gustavssvärd is Swedish, can roughly be translated to King Gustav’s sword. This part of Sveaborg hosts the highest concentration of fortification on the islands. The rocky and hill like island is permeated by a series of burms hosting large artillery pieces and bunkers. Although blocked off by fencing it is possible to sneak inside for a peak.
The rocky landscape makes for a stunning backdrops. You will find many sailboats circling around the bays. If you are feeling like it you can scale down the hillscape and enjoy the sea air on the brown sea stones.
At the very southern end of the island you will find a large star fort defended by a large bastions on the west side and the stunning Kuninkaanportti (King’s Gate) on the east. For a good view of the later, you will find a ferry dock at the base of the gate, by the water. You can take this to return back instead of walking.
Hidden by a large berm covered in wildflowers (in the summer), it is hard to seethe full extent of the structure. But don’t be fooled the stone fortification is quite comprehensive. From the ramparts you will find cannons looking out onto the sea.
The best part of the complex is the fact that one can wander though it without impediment, almost as if it was a living ruin. Narrow tunnels lead you around the underground parson of the complex so bring a flashlight or turn on the one on your phone. If hungry you can stop off for food at Vahalla, a restaurant opened in the fortress walls for the Helsinki Olympics. In the summer they open up a terrace on the ramparts with a sea view. It is one of the oldest commercial establishments in the complex.
Länsi-Mustasaari and Pikku Mustasaari
If you are still up for it and not too tired you can visit the last two islands on the west side of the dock. The first contains a large Swedish fortification and the second more barrel buildings. On the westernmost point you will the remnants of an old air defence artillery system used during the Second World War.
(Don’t Forget) The Suomenlinnan Panimo Brewery
Before you leave the island, via the docks, make sure to come back to the entry portal. On the south side you will find Suomenlinnan Panimo, the Sveaborg Brewery built into the pink structure and a small patio is tagged onto the back. It is one of my favourite breweries in Europe. I recommend getting a Baltic porter, the dark liquid is a sharp 7.5%, and will warm your cold body on the windy boat ride home.
Conclusion
Helsinki may be the smaller cousin to Sweden’s Stockholm but the smaller Finish Capital holds a charm of its own. From its sunning rocky islands, to its cultured inner core – Helsinki radiates a beaming ray of positive energy for all who enter it to see!
