Guimarães – The Old Capital of Portugal
Sitting in a half empty train lumbering from Porto to Guimares, my head was heavy and swollen from a massive fever I had been carrying around since my last day in Coimbra. In a daze I hauled my tired ass out of the train and into a stormy day in town.
Table of Contents
Geography
Guimaraes is located just north-east of Porto, on a granite rock formation. The area around the city is fairly mountainous.
History
The earliest records of the city date to the Roman period, at this time it was considered to be somewhat of a spa town. It is estimated that the city was founded in the fourth century A.D.
The town is renowned as the birthplace of the Portuguese Nation. After the fall of Rome the region was invaded by barbarian tribes such as the Visigoths. This void is then filled by invading Arab armies form North Africa, these were the Moors. While much of the south of present day Spain and Portugal succumbed to this assault, the mountainous north of the Iberian peninsula remained free. In this christian hinterland the seeds of the conquistador were sown. Portugal at first was part of the Kingdom of Galicia but in 1095 broke free. The county of Portugal, as it was then referred to, was merged with the county of Coimbra and from there the young country re-conquered the present borders of Portugal for Christendom by 1249, much earlier than Spain. From little Guimaraes, a Nation was born.
As Portugal expanded the small city lost its importance. Eventually, Lisbon became the capital and Portugal became a seafaring nation (1255!). Guimaraes languished, a process that kept its medieval character intact. In the 19th century the city walls were demolished and an emphasis was made on urban planning and sanitation. Today the city is a UNESCO site and a center for domestic tourism.
What to do in Guimarães?
Due to the overcast weather, it felt as if the city was abandoned. Nobody was out and patios remained empty. Shivering from my fever and wrapped in my raincoat I was wondering what the hell I was doing, but the more time I spent outside the better I began to feel. Even sick, I was able to see most of what I needed in Guimaraes in a day. As such I recommend a visit to the city simply as a day trip from Porto.
The city’s main attractions are all close to each other. The train station is in the south end of the city, a ten minute walk from the historic center to the north. From the center it is only a few minutes walk north to the palace and castle. The whole town is walkable and there is little need for a car.
Historic Center of Guimaraes
The old town of Guimares is renowned for its beautiful public squares. One of my favorites is the Praça de São Tiago, a small space that brims with medieval charm. Although the lesser of the city’s public spaces it feels intimate. This square is locate beside the Padrão do Salado in Oliveira Square to the south and Largo da Misericordia Square to the west. Oliveira square contains a Gothic monument at its center, and a remarkable Gothic church dating from the 15th century. The monument was installed by Afonso IV of Portugal to commemorate the victory at the Battle of Salado, in 1340.
Another notable church is the São Gualter Church, with its thin spire and pretty terraced gardens.
Before you leave make sure to stop off at the Largo do Toural. This is the largest and most important and largest public space in the city. Here you can find a Baroque styled church, a stone fountain and one of the few remaining towers of the old city wall. Some of the residential structures in this area are rather ornate and very pleasant to look at!
Palace of the Dukes of Braganza
Not far from the castle, you will find the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza. Built in the 15th century it was the home of the dukes before their eventual move. In 1640 the dukes would rule the country. Their old estate fell into ruins and has now been restored as a period museum.
At the front of the palace you will find a statue of Afonso Henriques. The interior features a beautiful Romanesque courtyard.
Castle
The castle of Guimaraes was constructed in the 10th century to defend the regions monasteries against Moorish raids. It was heavily reconstructed during the 13th century. As far as castles go the stonework is somewhat rudimentary and the battlement seem to be hulking, the massive stones creating plenty of shelter behind them. This is typical of early period Portugese castles before the nation had become wealthy from its maritime expeditions,
The castle has a special place in national lore. In the 11th century, the foundation of Portugal was set when Count Henry, of Portugal remodeled the castle and a son was born within the walls, Afonso Henriques the first King of Portugal.
Conclusion
Due to the fact that Guimarães was the capital of Portugal during its early, rustic, days it lacks the charm that characterizes many former capitals such as Esztergom, in Hungary. If you have the time to make the trip it it is certainly a good idea but I would prioritize other urban centers such as Braga before this destination.
