Guelph – The Lovely Home of John McCrae

July 10, 2023 by admin

We shall not sleep, though poppies grow

In Flanders Fields
Lieutenant-Colonel John McCrae.

This well known poem adorns North American classrooms every Remembrance Day (Veterans Day/Memorial Day), but did you know that its origins lie in the small Canadian city of Guelph? I sure did not, but now I do! Known for its University and old limestone mills, the city is not on many tourists radar, but perhaps it should!

Geography
A Brief History
- Early Beginning and Colonization
- Industrialization and the Modern Era
What to do in Guelph
Conclusion

Geography

Located at the confluence of the Speed River and the Eramosa River, Guelf is ideally located among the idyllic farmland of Southern Ontario. This watercourse will eventually merge downstream to form the Grand River. The downtown is built on several drumlins and it is on one of these that the iconic Guelph Basilica is located. From here a European styled city center can be observed.

FUN FACT! The city is built on a series of buried waterways where an underground creek flowing below the Albion Hotel was once the source of water used to brew beer.

A Brief History

Early Beginning and Colonization

Once occupied by a first nations people, the city was purchased in 1784 by the British Crown for approximately £1,180. After the purchase the first Superintendent of the Canada Company, the Scottish poet John Galt (one could say that Guelph is the home of Poets!), took over the Colonization of the city. The Canada Company was a private developer and is they who decided to create a European style city centre, traces of which can still be observed today. His settlement building began in 1827. This model was also reflected in other planned towns of this era, such as the radiant city of Buffalo, New York.

The Canada Company created a Board of Commerce to stimulate growth and built the first gist mill so that farmers would not need to transport their goods elsewhere. These initiatives worked and by 1831, Guelph already had approximately 800 residents. Unfortunately the economy could not yet sustain these numbers and relief only came when a group of wealthy immigrants from England and Ireland arrived in 1832.

Industrialization and the Modern Era

Growth was slow but the colony was incorporated as a town 1855 and elected its first mayor shortly thereafter. Things would pick up in the mid 1850’s first with the arrival of the railroads, the first which was the Grand Trunk Railway (from Toronto to Sarnia) in 1856. This lead to an industrial boom with the manufacturing and distilling industries leading the way. This wealth in turn lead to the creation of many of the fine limestone structures you see in town today, including the basilica. Yet the dominant industry was still agriculture, which would see the establishment of the Ontario Agricultural College (1874), today the University of Guelph after its amalgamation with the MacDonald Institute (1903), and the Ontario Veterinary College (1922).

Although it was never the biggest settlement in Ontario, it importance as a leading center of research and industry helped keep it on the map. The few obscure fact below should help highlight this:

Guelph was the home of North America’s first cable TV system.
The famed jockstrap was invented in Guelf in 1922, by the Guelph Elastic Hosiery Company.
In 1909 five pin bowling was invented (a sin!), its inventor Tom Ryan was born in Guelph.
The Canadian Communist Party was illegality created in Guelph in 1921.
The delicious Yukon Gold potato was first bred at the University of Guelph in 1966

Today the city retains it charm as a sleepy market and university town.

What to do in Guelph

There is more to do in Guelph then one would assume. Here are but a few of these things.

Check Out the European Styled Basilica and the Guelph Civic Museum

On the previously mentioned drumlin you will find the Basilica of Our Lady Immaculate, fresh off a 2015 restoration. The Gothic Revival building was dedicated in 1883, yet the towers were not finished until 1926, when the 61 meter (200 feet) were added. Believe it or not this space was part of John Galt’s city plan. In 1927 when he founded Guelph. At that time he gave the highest point in the city center to Roman Catholic Archdiocese (At this time based in Kingston, Ontario) as a compliment to his friend, Bishop Alexander Macdonell who had given him advice in the formation of the Canada Company.

Off to the side you will find the old convent which is now the Civic Museum, displaying items from the city’s past. It is well worth a stop if you have the time. Near its base you will find a fantastic statue of the native poet John McCrae in his military uniform, looking out over the town.

Walk Around the Pleasantly Laid Out Downtown

From the Cathedral extends the aptly named McDonnell (named after previously mentioned Catholic bishop Alexander Macdonell). This street continued until it hits the Speed River, where it crosses into a residential neighborhood. This is where you will find the majority of the town’s nightlife, where in the summer the street parking transforms into a patio lined paradise. I recomend the Royal Electric Bar & Public Eatery (a bar in old stone building) but if you want a very trashy place to go out try Trappers Alley. The retro 19th century Albion hotel is host to a restaurant but I have not tried it yet.

Among the sights in the old town you will find the old Blacksmith Fountain, dating from 1884 as well as the newer “The Family” Fountain. Buildings of note include the dual towered brick armories buildings, the County of Wellington structure and the Old City Hall on Carden Street.

Browse for Fresh Goods at the Guelph Farmers’ Market

Just south of the main street you will find a large building holding the Guelph famers market. As an agricultural community the city has always prided itself on its produce and this could be a good way to try some. In the summer there are often additional markets taking place on the riverbanks at Royal City Park.

Stop by the Spring Mill For A Drink and the Allan’s Mill Ruins

There were two successful mills running in Guelph in its early days, the Allan and the Spring Mills. Built by the Canada Company in 1830 it was purchased by the Allan Family, eventually destroyed by fire in 1966 Originally five stories in height, little is left of it today but a cairn of its stone erected to mark the 150th anniversary of the city.

The second mill for its part still stands. Once home to a distillery it is once again open for business as in 2019, the current owner John Sleeman restored the Spring Mill Distillery and added a condo complex to it. It is worth stopping by for a drink if you have time.

Both landmarks are located at the intersections of McDonnell Avenue and wellington.

Bring Out You Inner Child at Historic Locomotive 6167

On display near the bank of the Speed river, this full sized locomotive was constructed during the 1940’s and used to transport goods during the second world war. Today it has found a new way to serve by offering you the chance to get up close and personal with it! It is located near the old rail line, just west from Allan’s Mills Ruins.

Goldie Mill Ruins

Another mill on the Speed River, this time north of the old town by the Hockey Rink, it was constructed in 1866 by James Goldie. Now a ruin, it was once a productive sawmill for an important family. Mr. Goldie was a conservative candidate and his son Thomas Goldie was mayor of Guelph from 1891 to 1892.

Although damaged by fire in 1952, the limestone building is now a park that you can walk through. The smokestack is also still intact and makes for a pretty sign among the green trees.

Read In Flanders Fields at the McCrae House

The birthplace of the native son John McCrae, this 19th century limestone house is now open to visit! The house itself was constructed in 1858 and was owned by the McCrae family from 1870 to 1873. After gaining heritage designation it was transferred to the city of guelf and became a museum in 1983. It seeks to educated newcomers to Guelph’s most famous doctor, soldier and poet.

In the yard is a monument to the man himself with the famed poem In Flanders Field displayed at the center of the monument.

Get Educated at the University of Guelph and its Arboretum

Welcome to the home of the Yukon Gold potato! Located on the south side of the city, completely detached from the old city this piece of civic history is hard to get to if you do not have a car. As previously mentioned it was created from the merger of three institutions, the most renowned of which is the Ontario Veterinary College. Although spread out it is a cool campus with beautiful old halls, a ruined facade maintained for historical purposes, a gold course and a massive arboretum.

Conclusion

In brief, there is more to due in this sleepy college town that meets the eye. Not only is it a small center of culture for the grounding area but it can be quite lively in the evening. Furthermore it is a great place to stay if you wish to explore nearby Elora and its gorge.