Grosse-Île – Quarantine Island and the Irish Memorial National Historic Site

July 18, 2023 by admin

Emerging from the mercurial waters of the St. Lawrence river like the back of a great humpback whale, this famed quarantine island has seen many travellers come and go, leaving their fare share of stories and ghosts. Now in tatters, the ruins of the facilities once so proudly built up are now interpretive centres open to those who wish to learn.

Geography
A Brief History of the Island and the Irish Migration
How to get to Grosse-Île
Exploring Grosse-Île
Western Island (Quarantine Station)
Central Island – East (Worker Housing and Medical Ward)
Attractions Nearby
Conclusion

Geography

The Island is located north of Quebec city, and is accessed via South Shore of the river near the town of Berthier-sur-Mer but is actually located in the centre of the river near a cluster of Islands.

A Brief History of the Island and the Irish Migration

Grosse Isle and the Irish Memorial National Historic Site has a short but tragic history as Canada’s foremost port of entry and quarantine station. Although it was only open from 1832 to its closing in 1932, it seen much death as Europe shipped to Canada its sick and hungry.

The complex was first opened in 1932 as a stopgap to detect cholera, when cholera epidemics were raging in Europe. It seems like the disease was brought over from the continent and this station was meant to help contain the spread of it. By the mid 19th century its focus was on containing typhus, especially during the busy years of the Irish famine (Great Famine of 1845–1849). In this period starving Irish immigrants pored into the country and were an easy prey to disease due to their weekended condition, especially when in tight quarters for their oversea voyage.

Furthermore there was no requirement of these immigrant ships to carry doctors, it was a recipe for disaster. Much of the typhus was spread on ship and many did not leave their boats or this island. For those who perished at sea Grosse-Île was their final resting place.

Over 5000 of these Irish migrant are buried in the islands cemeteries and nearly 500,000 Irish immigrants passed through Grosse-Île on their way to Canada making it an important site in Irish Canadian history. The worst year for disease was in 1847, when a full blown public health crisis erupted on the island. But more on that later.

After Canada became a country with the act of Canadian Confederation in 1867, the site including buildings and equipment, were modernized. Yet times were changing and by 1932, this station was defunct. Immigration had spread to multiple new ports of entry and immigrants were treated in city hospitals. The country was urbanizing and the rustic conditions that had led to the need for a place like Grosse-Île no longer existed to the same extent. The site was still used for several years as a research station, including by Agriculture Canada and the Department of Defence, who studied biological warfare during the Second World War, including the manufacturing of Anthrax.

The site would not become part of the Parks Canada heritage sites until the 1990’s.

How to get to Grosse-Île

There are two ways to access the island:

You Can Take a ferry from Berthier-sur-Mer with the Lachance Company (for more information click here)
Take a plane from Montmagny (for more information click here)

Note: For those of you taking the Ferry, Book tickets ahead show up to ferry early. Flights are by reservation only.

Exploring Grosse-Île

Arriving on the Island and the Order of Business

Taking the ferry to the island docks, you will trace the same trajectory as so many before you. Like your forefathers (if you are an Old Stock Canadian) you will be directed to the disinfection station and then quarantined in one of the many hotels and accommodations depending on your social status and how much you paid for the voyage. There were three classes of hotels on the island, ranked from First-Class to Third Class. There were also cottages. Despite you class, all new arrivals had to go through the same disinfection process.

How is the Island Divided?

The island can be roughly divided in two parts. The first is the western peninsula the second is the rest of the island which in this case I will call center and eastern portions.

The Western Portion is the Quarantine Zone – The patients were sorted in a “Healthy” and “Sick” areas depending on their medical exam.
The Central Portion and Eastern portion was home to much of the staff housing, medical and support buildings.

Note: The Lazaret on its eastern extent was the original 1832 station before the western side was built up

What Should I See On Grosse-Île?

During your journey you will encounter the following attractions (do note this is not a comprehensive list, minor buildings may be excluded)

The Quay (Quarantine Zone)
The Disinfection Building (Quarantine Zone)
The Bakery and Summer Kitchen (Quarantine Zone)
First-Class Hotel (Quarantine Zone)
Second Class Hotel (Quarantine Zone)
Third Class Hotel (Quarantine Zone)
Irish Cemetery (Quarantine Zone)
Irish Memorial (Quarantine Zone)
Le Lavoir – Wash house (Quarantine Zone)
Vaccination Center (Quarantine Zone)
Medical Assistant’s Office (Central Island)
The Upper Block and Center Cemetery (Central Island)
The Anglican Chapel and House of the Public Works Officer (Central Island)
Cannon Point (Central Island)
Catholic Chapel (Central Island)
Veterinarian’s Museum (Central Island)
The Marconi Station (Central Island)
The Physicians’ Residence, Nursing Station, Laboratories and Other Medicine/Science Related Structures (Central Island)
Ruined Pier (Central Island)
Office of the Medical Bacteriologist (Central Island)
Eastern Cemetery (Central Island)
The Lazaret (Central Island)

How to Explore the Island

You have two choices in the ways that you can explore the island. The first (and the lamest) is to follow a guided tour. The second is to tour the island by yourself, do not be shy to do so you are allowed but few do, just make sure you are back at the boat on time. Do note that the disinfection building must be visited at specific times. Furthermore a shuttle will transport you across the central part of the island so you don’t have to walk.

Western Island (Quarantine Station)

The Quay

The point of on-loading and offloading for those staying on quarantine island, the Quay flanked by the disinfection station, warehouses and near the adjoining hotels to the west.

The Disinfection Building

The disinfection building is possibly the most important building on site. It is the common structure that all who visited the island for the purpose of immigration would have had to visit.

In the main hall their baggage and clothing would go though in industrial wash to disinfect them. They were given quarantine uniforms in the meanwhile.

Then they would be brought into a main hall for processing.

They would then be sent upstairs to the massive shower room where they would enter a circular chamber that would spray their entire body. Here they were also given soap.

Much of the upstairs is now a museum dedicated to this disinfection process, including the implementation of the New Orleans model of disinfection and scientific advances in this field. You will also find a collection of leaflets and poster for Canadian immigration.

Curiously, you can tell this station was ahead of its time. The toilets look pretty modern. You will also find a heritage plaque to Frederick Montizambert, the superintendent of the station and the man who established Canada’s quarantine stations. From 1869-1899, he relaunched operations at the Grosse Île quarantine station and acted as the medical superintendent.

Back on the ground floor you will find an old Westinghouse generator.

Before you head out make sure to visit the spooky basement, home to much of the mechanical equipment used to power, heat and run services (eg water) to the showers, laundry and other industrial processes, including a giant coal furnace.

The Bakery and Summer Kitchen

These two structures located north of these hotels privileged much of the food for those unfortunate residents of the island. They are now host to small displays about the St. Luc village once on the island.

The Third-Class Hotel

Dating from 1914, this building, along with the new 1914 First-Class Hotel accommodations, represent a new development for the island. They are result of the pressure by shipping companies who wanted to offer healthy passengers accommodations that matched their travel class. During the Second World War it was converted temporarily until officers’ quarters and was later into a hay storage area.

The Irish Cemetery

Possibly the most moving place on the island is the Irish cemetery, one of three burial grounds on the island. Of the massive 109,000 emigrants who left home for British North America in 1847, almost all were Irish.

Above the cemetary is the Monument to Physicians, a memorial to those who lost their lives tending to the sick and dying. Before I get to the subjects of the cemetery I would like to say a few words about those who tended to the Irish and other immigrants. Disease spreads, and it was/still is hard to find those who where willing to brave it by working in close quarters to the sick. Those who worked here also threatened to bring it back to their families at home. As such the island labour shortage, despite offering good wages and accommodation. Many who worked here got sick and least once and many lay on the island’s cemeteries.

Now for the Irish, the uneven soil will give you an indication of the gravity of their loses and how many bodies fill its mass graves. Over 3000 Irish died on the island, and over 5000 are buried here overall meaning that 2000 died on route and had to be buried with the others. Many were lost during the 1847-48 Typhus epidemic in which the goverment was woefully unprepared for both in volume and for the amount of invalids (sick) on board. Much of the facilities you see today had not yet been constructed and the healthy lived in tents, and those camps were often swept up in their own epidemics. The government’s poor preparations were a scandal at the time. There were many sounding the alarm and asking for funds to improve the islands facilities and yet they were ignored.

The flow of sick and healthy was so large that by June of 1847, 25,000 Irish immigrants were quarantined on the island or waiting in the ships anchored nearby waiting to offload. This was a full blown crises and by July over 2500 invalids were quarantined on the island.

The crisis of 1847 was the worst on the island proved the need for improvement as many “Healthy” immigrants moved on to Montreal and infected many on buildings sites and crowded tenements, only exacerbating the Irish tragedy.

Behind the cemetery there is a peaceful memorial to the dead

On its walls are a list of those who perished and are buried here.

Irish Memorial

After a short walk up through the woods you will come across a large stone Celtic cross. One of the largest I have yet to see and was erected in memory of those who died during 1847 and 1848. The stone monument was set up by the Ancient Order of Hibernians in 1909 with inscriptions Irish, English and French.

This is the island’s outward facing monument to those Irish lost. It looks out to the St. Laurence river and reminds passerby’s of those sick and hungry who came before.

The First-Class Hotel

Constructed at the start of the 20th century, this was where the wealthiest “Healthy” immigrants would stay. Patients here would not have to bunk but had individual rooms.

Le Lavoir (The Old Wash House – Building 16)

Dating from 1856, this building was erected for the obvious purpose of sanitation.

As you can imagine the bigger periods of migration caused the island’s crowded condition and new facilities were required. This was once a state of the art structure, with iconic farmhouse sinks.

The Second-Class Hotel (Building 22)

Unfortunately, this building has not been restored and is currently rotting, although I must add that it does add something to the abandoned quarantine station aspect to the island. The building is considered to be part of a complex that was called the “healthy” western section, those who had been sorted for triage as healthy but were stuck in the quarantine zone. Building 22 was originally the First-Class Hotel for wealthier immigrant passengers but was superseded by the current First Class Hotel in 1912-13. It was used as a barracks during the Second World War and later converted into a warehouse.

Vaccination Office

The last building before the quarantine area ends, this building was as the title would suggest a vaccination center and was constructed in 1907.

Central Island – East (Worker Housing and Medical Ward)

You will know that you are leaving the quarantine area as the road will take you to a brown shingled watchtower.

Medical Assistant’s House

An unassuming building from 1893 that once hosted the Medical Assistant.

The Upper Block and the Center Cemetery at Cholera Bay (Sailor’s Quarters)

Another sulking ruin, this one a large barrack that was once the Sailor’s Quarters.

The building sits on its own tidal bay, apply named Cholera Bay, away from the rest of the site, being divided from it via a now almost invisible cemetery.

The cemetery was built after the one of the eastern half of the island and reflects the increasing importance of this immigration station.

The Anglican Chapel (Building 42) and the House of the Public Works Officer

The main protestant building is off the main shuttle road so you may have to walk to it. Yet I promise you that it is worth the visit. The island’s protestant structure is built with a single tower off to the side, an in many respects the wood structure is your typical Anglican structure, simple and functional. The structure is composed of a High Gothic style. It was built in 1878 and commands a great view of the St Lawrence, including the bay in witch the pier is located.

Next to it you will find the public administrators structure.

Cannon Point

Came across the cannons on a walk. No context given.

The Catholic Chapel (Building 48)

Dating from 1874, this buildings is perhaps the most recognizable structure on the island and certainly the prettiest. It takes its queues most surprisingly of all from Protestantism. Its single spire and Gothic Revival style reflect this.

The structure’s interior is also built in Gothic revival and exhibits a great degree of craftmanship. It was the love child of the island administrator Frédéric Montizambert who wished to build an on island community.

Veterinarians Museum

Housed in a sheet metal building is a small exhibits on the work of the Canadian Vetinarians, especially those of Grosse Île. In the 1965-85 period it wast host to an animal quarantine station.

This area once housed a research station for veterinarians who helped develop a vaccine for bovine flue in 1946.

The Marconi Station (Building 66)

This small colonial bungalow is the is the only remaining evidence left of the communication function of Grosse Île.

Throughout the eastern part of the island you will find a host of buildings belonging to the medical professionals that worked here.

The buildings fell into two categories housing or work related structures. Those higher placed staff members would have the nicer homes.

Residence of the Medical Bacteriologist

It is fitting that a place that once studied the effects of naturally occurring deadly diseases on humans in an attempt to ensure that they would be isolated from the rest of the population would later be a place where lab made bio-weapons lab were created. During the Second World War, this was an Anthrax testing site. In fitting with he environmental standards of the time (or lack thereof), scientists swabbed the entire anthrax operation down with formaldehyde and then dumped the residue in the St. Lawrence River.

Ruined Pier

Nothing but a ruined pier, with an overgrown concrete sidewalk.

But an echo of times past.

Eastern Cemetery

The eastern cemetery is home to its own share of tragedy and yet its location is actually quite serene. It is strange to think that this is where it all began in 1832, before the other sectors of the island were opened. This was once part of a complex with the Lazaret that formed the main quarantine station when the island first opened and the western side had not yet been built up.

Located at the east end of the island, the cemetery was was unique in that it also houses some of the workers family and relatives. Life on the island was risky, and many staff members caught the diseases brought by the immigrants, especially the nurses that often bunked with them. Yet this also occasionally spilled out onto the east side of the island as well. A second unique distinction is that the cemetery is divided into two sections: the east side was for the Catholics and the west side for the Protestants.

The cemetery and headstones you see today do not reflect the original burial ground created in 1847-1848 and mostly used until 1866-1868, when a new cemetery opened in Grosse Île’s central sector at the head of Cholera Bay (Near the Sailors Barracks). The graves from these years are unmarked. The cemetery was reopened for 1875-1880, once again. This time the graves were not in mass, but individual with numbered wooden stakes for identification. By 1910, some of these wood crosses were replaced by metal pipes. The wooden ones that were not have rotted away.

The Lazaret (Building 100)

The granddaddy of the island, this is the only remaining building from the original 1832 quarantine station and Canada’s oldest immigration building. In fact this was originally the immigration building before being transformed into a field hospital, to handle the large number of those suffering from diseases like Typhus, a position it held until the closure of the island in 1932.

Although bare bones by today’s hospital standard this was actually built with the state of art practices of the time. Large windows let in light and ventilators helped circulate the air. It is one of the few buildings left standing to bear witness to the tragedy of 1847.

The building was partially prefabricated and assembled on site by master carpenters.

Inside you will find an exhibit on smallpox. Before leaving Europe everyone was required to be vaccinated for smallpox. In the crowded immigrant filled ships, this was not always the case however and the disease spread quickly. One in ten died of the pox, a disease that caused red eruptions on the skin (that led to permanent scaring), vomiting, nausea and a whole host of other symptoms.

The solution according to Dr. Finsen from Denmark was sunlight was harmful to those suffering from the disease. A room was painted red, red skylights and bulbs were also added to protect patients from the light. It was thought that this would lighten the scarring and time indisposed. A nurse would tend to the sick, disinfecting an bringing in moist towels to bring down fevers.

Attractions Nearby

Berthier-sur-Mer

The town of Bertier itself happens to be pretty, although it is a spread out and not much of a town. Its city center is actually stepped further back from its jetty, making it less of a port and more of a sleepy rural town with a few buildings of note.

The first is the stone church, and across from it there are a few old buildings.

The quay has been recently renovated and is home to a nice riverside park and a restaurant.

The marina is a rather popular one, with many boats filling it. There is parking across the road if you are a ferry passenger.

Montmagny

This small Quebec city where the plane flies out of is actually very beautiful and deserving of its own post. For more information click here.

Domaine de La Pointe-de-Saint-Vallier

Only a few minutes from the ferry crossing at Bertier-sur-Mer, you will find this old seignorial manor overlooking the St. Lawrence. For more info click here.

Conclusion

Although your stay on the island will be short, it will definitely stand out amongst the most memorable places you will visit in Quebec. The haunting ruins are evocative of a more primitive time where hygiene and germs were in a constant war, a war that would claim so many.. Efforts to contain disease involved a suspension of civil rights that are unimaginable today, but vigilance was key. This is but a window into that world!

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