Graz – An Austrian Delight
Graz, a pretty university city located in the Graz Highlands (a low lying mountain chain of the Alps) makes for a wonderful getaway! Although the city is located in Central Europe, I visited Graz during my trip to the Balkans region due to its importance to the Slovene and Croat subjects of the Austrian Empire. In fact, it acted as the de-facto university center for many of those subjects. Today, the city boasts six universities and a student population of well over 60 000 people. I did realize until my visit just how friendly Austrians can be outside of the capital and Graz would soon become be my favourite in Austria, much more so than Vienna.
I would compare this city favourably to its baroque Slovenian cousin Ljubljana.
Table of Contents
- A Little Geography:
- A Brief History:
- “Slovenian” Graz
- Krampus and the Krampuslauf
- Fun Facts
- Things to Do in Graz:
- Conclusion:
A Little Geography:
Graz is located in the Austrian province of Styria at the southern end of Austria. The city borders the land where the Alps give way to the plains and forests of Hungary. It is positioned near the Slovene border and the town of Maribor. Running past the historic center is the Mur river, a small river originating in the Austrian Alps. Due to its position at the edge of the Alps and controlling a fertile valley, Graz was often raided by enemies including the Ottomans in 1529 and 1532.
A Brief History:
Medieval & Renaissance Graz
The city of Graz developed as a collection of villages around a wooded hill called the Schlossberg. This hill houses the fortifications of the city, it was first built up in a rudimentary manner in the 10th century and would only become a force to be reckoned with in the 15th century, when a proper fortifications were constructed. The city first gained recognition during the high medieval period as a center of trade for the Syrian nobles and expanded to become an important university center when the University of Graz was founded in 1586. The university was controlled by the catholic church for most of its existence and it attracted many Croats and Slovenes due to the city being in close proximity to the Austrian possessions in South-East Europe.
Many of the important structures in town were built as part of an architectural proxy war between Catholics and Protestants nobles. Graz was a protestant holdout in the Austrian Empire, during this period the protestant elite oversaw the construction of many palaces. The Catholics, enraged, summoned the Jesuits to the city to help sponsor beautiful baroque masterpieces such as the university and the Eggenberg Palace. As a testament to the religious strife taking place throughout the Austrian lands, the emperor Karl II burned 20 000 books in Graz as part of the counter reformation. It is largely due to these counter-reformation efforts that the province of Styria was again in the catholic fold.
Napoleonic Wars to the Modern Era
The French occupied the city in 1797 and returned in 1809. The second time, Napoleon ordered an attack on the fortress. The outnumbered defenders fended off eight attempts to storm the Schlossberg. After the war many of the fortifications were dismantled as part of a peace deal with Napoleon, much to the chagrin of the local population who had become fond of the fort.
Graz would not officially become a city until the 19th century when the surrounding villages expanded into each other and merged. The 20th century was one of internal strife matching that of the rest of Austria. In Graz, like most the country, the city was divided by pro-German and those against union with Germany. Union was achieved and centuries of Jewish life ended. The Germans also targeted the Slavic Slovene population. Today the city is a calm university city, with a strong economy and a UNESCO designation.
“Slovenian” Graz
I learned of the city’s importance for the Slovene people back in Ljubljana, a few days prior to my stop in Graz. A university was not establish in the Slovene capital till 1919, as such Graz was their default institution for much of the Slovene population. While in Graz they founded many clubs and the Styrian Slovenes were so populous that many did not consider the city to be German but Slovene. The first Slovene dictionary was published here in 1592 and many Slovene subjects of the Austrian empire immigrated here for jobs, as they were easier to come by in Graz than their native Slovenia. Many successful Slovene academics graduated from here and went on to pursue their academic career in other central European universities, often becoming top researchers in Europe. The Slovene presence was, and to a certain extent still is so strong that Hitler order nationalization efforts to suppress Slovene identity after the Anschluss (union) between Austria and Germany.
Krampus and the Krampuslauf
The Krampuslauf is an Austrian procession that celebrates Krampus, the ideologic opposite of St. Nicholas. He is half goat, half demon and sports horns. The creature inflicts corporal punishment (possibly whipping) children that have been bad during the year. Although the tradition is alive in many parts of Austria and Bavaria, it is strongest in Styria, specifically Graz, which hosts a large parade where young men dress as Krampus and are offered German liquor such as Snapps.
Unfortunately I was here in the summer r but after hearing all about the Krampus celebrations I will have to make a winter visit.
Fun Facts
- Erwin Schrödinger was briefly chancellor of the university of Graz, yes that’s the Schrödinger’s cat guy!
- Arnold Schwarzenegger attended a gym in Graz.
Things to Do in Graz:
Although the city is much smaller than Vienna there still is a lot to do. Believe it or not this is actually the second largest city in the country. The city is beautiful, with an old town that can rival most in Europe. I would classify this city as an ambience city. Graz may not have the most activities to do but it does have a relaxed aura about it that is only enhance by the colourful baroque building that line the streets of the old town.
My first stop in town was city hall, call the Rathouse. I was starving after my morning bus ride into the city and knowing Europe, there is always a food vendor in the main squares of cities. As usual I was right, the triangular square had an assortment of foods but I chose the sausage and mustard of course. The ornate, 19th century hall, along with the surrounding buildings, provides shade for those eating. While I was finishing up my meal I took a look around the square. In the center there is a statue of Archduke Johann (John) Brunnen. I had no clue who that was so I needed to google him when I got home. He was a junior member of the house of Habsburg who served in the Napoleonic wars. He retired to Austria, became a patron of the university and died here in 1857. He was well loved by the people and became the prominent figure of Styria as part of Austrian Empire.
This square, with its multicoloured buildings gives a great view of my next destination, the Schlossberg. There are many ways to access the hill. The first is a funicular railway leading from the west side of the hill, the second is a elevator hidden in tunnels under the hill and the third is a pathway winding slowly around the East side of the mountain. There is also the option to take a winding staircase instead of the elevator. I took the third option up but will revisit the other two options as I took the tunnels on my way down.
While walking around the old town be on the lookout for the many medieval courtyards that dot the streetscape , they are a great place if you need some shade. There are also many palaces but they tend to blend into the street. To get to the pathway mentioned above you will walk down Sporgasse, a busy street with many shops. There will be a branch of this street heading east called houfgasse street. This will take you to the old city gates where the mausoleum of Ferdinand II, member of the house of Hasburg, Holy Roman Emperor and born in Graz as well as the rather diminutive cathedral. Make sure to book a tour of the crypt. I had not so I was not able to access it.
While you are out looking at the crypt you may as well continue East to check out the University. Luminaries such as a young Serb from Croatia called Nikola Tesla attended school here. Other names you may recognize are professors such as physics pioneer Ludwig Boltzmann and Bosnian/Yugoslav navelist & nobel laureate Ivo Andric (see Travnik).
Returning to the Sporgasse, continue until you see the turnoff for the fortress. Before you walk up the mountain there is also an access to the underground tunnel. The path leads up to the 13th century clock tower, one of the few remaining parts of the original fortifications. It offers panoramic view of the city. Nearby you will find the Schlossberglift, an elevator that takes you to the center of the mountain where the tunnels are. The tunnels, were constructed in 1943, as air raid shelters, during the second world war. Air raids began in 1944 and the tunnel were well used, in total 56 air raids befell the city.
There are many places to check out on the hill, the first being the Chinese Pavilion, essentially a gazebo with a nice view. The next is the Garrison Museum, one of the few remaining fortifications. The plants growing around it are pretty, don’t miss’s the Turks Well, it is 94 meters deep so don’t drop your cell phone!
The last area to visit at the Schlossberg is the highest point on the hill. The crest of this point once housed the Upper Castle. Today, nothing remains of this castle but you can visit pretty gardens, the exposed foundations of a church, an octogonal tower and romanesque ruins that are covered and used as a theater. This a a great spot to have a picnicking and relax. For my part I found shade under a tree and took a short nap. This area is also where the funicular cablecar is stationed at for those interested in taking it to the top.
When you are done at the Schlossberg, there is still plenty to explore in town. First stop at the Grazer Landhaus. Today this civic building acts as the seat of the Styrian Landtag (state parliament), the building was conceived in 1531 and is the first renaissance building to be constructed in the city limits. At the time, it was a protestant holding and competed with the seat of the catholic nobility, located in nearby Styrian castles.
Right next to it is the Landeszeughaus or Styrian Armory. If you only have a few hours and can do one thing while in Graz make this it. The multi-story structure houses the largest collection of renaissance weapons in Europe. Furthermore it is the largest historic armoury in the world. The armoury was built to keep the garrison stocked with armaments thus helping defend Styria from Ottoman attacks. Graz was located on the Austrian front line of the Austrian-Ottoman conflict during the early renaissance thus, until the Ottomans were driven back from Styria towards the South Balkans, Graz remained a prime target. You can take a tour of the armoury, or visit yourself. I recommend taking the tour, it is a lot more interesting to have someone point out some of the more technical details. While on the tour, my guide asked our group about missing cannons and if we knew where the missing equipment was located. Due to my time in the Serbian city of Novi Sad I was able to answer that the Austrian soldiers had neglected to return it after their massive victory at Petrovaradin. The guide was impressed!
Somehow after this I got roped into having a tea with an old Austrian lady at a café, it was nice to talk to a local and I had plenty of time to kill before my bus out of town.
On the west side of the Mur river you can find the monstrosity that is the Kunsthaus, a modern art musem with an oddball shape. The better pubs and cafes are on Lendplatz street and you can stop at the island in the Mur café if you wish. This area is considerably more modern than the inner city but still has a wealth of nice churches. The real attraction is located at the western edge of the city at the Eggenberg Palace. This baroque structure is one of the bigger draws to the city.
Outside of the city attractions include several small castles as well as the Mariatrost Basilica & tram museum.
Conclusion:
Come to Graz for the armoury and stay to see why I consider it to be the friendliest city in Austria. Styria with it’s laid back attitude and great wine may surprise you.
