Gjirokastër – Stone City

Epirus, a harsh mountainous region stretching from Berat in Albania into the heartland of northern Greece at Ioannina, is a territory that has captured to imagination of adventurous types for centuries. In ancient times, these mystical highlands played host to a Greek oracle, as famous as the one at Delphi, and a proud mountain people as strong as any greekman. The Epirus I sought to see was the one that had inspired Lord Byron, the famous English poet, to venture here in a Turkish controlled land that forbade the intrusion of Europeans. Here, in the Albanian highlands, he met Ali Pasha of Ioannina, the Turkish vizier of Epirus. The warlord renowned though Europe for his cunning, bravery and profound cruelty. Tepelenë, the old capital of the Pasha, lost in time, sits between Gjirokastër and Berat, while those cities remain. I came to this land to see the most authentic Ottoman village in the world, once remote, isolated by a mountain chain and scarcely changed since the arrival of Byron. It is in both the citadel-cities of Berat and Gjirokastër that the Pasha left his most famous marks.

Table of Contents

• A Little Geography
• A Brief History
  • Myths and Legends
  • Saranda to Gjirokastër
• Where to Stay
• What To Do
• Architecture
  • Further Reading on Architecture
• Culinary Tradition
• Conclusion

A Little Geography

Located 300m above sea level, Gjirokastër and it’s citadel paint an intimidating climb to any would be conqueror. The upper half of the city, the Old Town retains its ancient charms, whereas the lower half is the new town, a more modern iteration of the city. To its south is the small agricultural town of Lazarat, until recently famous for its mob owned marijuana production.

The city sits between two mountain chains but is located on the approach of the western one. Between both of these is a long slender valley, a productive piece of land that provides for the region and its own unique culinary tradition. To the outsider it seems like the town is built right into the mountain incline, its dull grey stone buildings blending into the mountain itself.

If you visit the town in the spring, like I did, you will be greeted by beautiful snowy mountain caps to compliment your pictures. This photogenic town looks its best at this time of year. If you opt for the higher temperatures and sunshine, the summers offer a nice Mediterranean climate.

A Brief History

The name Gjirokastër derives from the Greek name Argyrocastron. A settlement of this name is first mentioned by Byzantine Emperor John VI in 1336 but the land has been inhabited by the Greek people since the time immemorial. This city developed in the late medieval ages and rose to prominence during the struggle between Ottoman and Greek interests in the modern era. Albanians came to occupy the area during a particularly nasty bout of the black death that decimated the local Epirot population. From that time on it was contested by both Greek and Albanian interests. The city was occupied by the Ottomans in 1417 and remained in their hands till their retreat from the region during the First Balkan War, although both Greek and Albanian populations frequently revolted against their Ottoman Overlords.

The city was featured particularly prominently during the period of Albanian National Consciousness (1831–1912). This period coincides with a renaissance in Albanian culture that would lead to its independence from the Ottoman Empire.  In July 1880, southern Albanian committees of the League of Prizren met in the city, reinforcing the drive for an independent Albania. The city was occupied by the Greeks in 1912 but was awarded to Albania by the western powers at the conclusion of the First Balkans War. Unhappy with the situation, the Greeks revolted and formed a new republic, that of Northern Epirus. This territory was restored to Albania at the conclusion of the First World War. 

Before the the Second World War, Albania was invaded by Italy and king Zog I of Albania was toppled. At the outbreak of the war Greece had sided with the Allies, as such Italy attempted to invade Greece. They failed miserable and the Greeks even captured large swath of Albania from them, including Gjirokastër, this was not to last however. Disappointed with the weakness show by their Italian allies the Germans took Greece by force, it would not be returned to Albania until 1944. The brutal dictator Enver Hoxha was born in the city in 1908, with the help of communist Yugoslav partisans the Albanian communists retook the country and instilled a brutal dictatorship, one that ensured that Albania would languish in poverty, cutoff from the world. Hoxha designated the town as a “museum city” ensuring that it would be preserved and his house can still be visited today.

Angry Greek crowds tore down his statue in 1991, when the one party system was abolished. The Albanian state collapse shortly after, due to the government’s complicity in a pyramid scheme that totally collapsed the Albanian economy. The year 1997 saw armed conflict between the local Greek and Albanian populations, although today, they live in relative harmony. The crisis has long passed and sleepy Gjirokastër is a very safe place to visit, albeit the local economy is in much need of stimulus. Buildings are failing apart and unfortunately tourists do not visit this underrated gem nearly enough. This may be due to its isolated geographic position in the mountains, where winters are harsh and the roads can be treacherous.

Myths and Legends

While walking around you may hear locals tell you about the Byzantine Princess Argjiro. This figure of both Albanian and Greek mythology is said to be the founder of the city. One version of the story has her leaping to her death from the castle walls with her child to avoid being captured by the Turks. A famous poem by contemporary Albanian writer, dissenter and Gjirokastër native Ismail Kadare has been written about her. More is to be said about him later in this post.

* Do Note: The date of the town’s founding likely predates the legend. Hence – Hogwash!

Getting Around

Albania is famous for it’s Furgons. These are the typical transportation modules for Albanians that don’t own a car, hence the public transit of Albania. Although some cities in Albania have Bus stations, most of the inner city travel is done so much more informally. Often this means white vans called Furgons that will pick you up at unmarked or unofficial locations such as town squares. At the front window of the bus, sitting on the dash, is a the final destination written on a piece white cardboard. Stops must be confirmed with driver but they are often willing to stop wherever as long as it is on the way. Furgon times are very flexible and can offer a good alternative to taking the bus. They are inexpensive and one of the oddest forms of transportation I have had the pleasure of taking. Do keep in mind that the vans are usually crammed  on a with other passengers and can get quite hot on a summer day!

For more information on Furgons please click here.

Saranda to Gjirokastër

I barely got on the furgon to Gjirokastër that morning. I woke up in Saranda down a wallet, with almost no money and with barely any time to figure it out. Luckily I had a few US dollars hidden away, but as I approached Friendship Park where the furgons were located I realized that it would be leaving soon. I looked up and down, until I found one heading toward Gjirokaster. There I was pointed toward a nearby ticket office to try to exchange my dollars to Albanian Lek, the local currency. The man working at the cash could not understand me and I was running out of ways to try to explain. Luckily a young American woman, working in the US Peace Corps, overheard the conversation and bailed me out with some Lek. We actually boarded the same van but her destination was further north than mine, so I had a great seatmate for my first ever furgon ride! It was a warm day, even for spring and they load these vans up so that you are all packed in there while you rock around the curvy mountainous roads. The vans stops to pick up people and drop them off as it goes and people even come with their own stool to sit in the aisle, while some bring their smaller farm animals. Thus I encountered many chickens in Albania in this fashion

When I was finally dropped of in the new town I had a long walk up  the mountain to my hostel in the old town. Just as I though things were getting better it started to rain.

Where to Stay

After my misadventure in Saranda, I arrived in the city penniless and hungry. I had booked my stay at Stone City Hostel in the old town (for other great Balkan hostels click here). This hostel is located in a beautifully restored building in the old town. Facilities include a large outdoor terrace, modern showers and sturdy beds (much better than the average hostel). Prices are reasonable and there is breakfast served for free every morning. It is a very comfortable place to stay and I would recommend it to anyone visiting the city. The dutch owner offers many hikes and is knowledgeable of the surrounding area.

When I arrived the owner, I explained my money situation. Not yet able to pay for my accommodation, I asked him where the nearest Western Union was so I could get my parents to wire me money.  He took pity on me and checked me in anyway. He told me not to worry and offered to lend me some Lek until the afternoon when he would be able to take me there himself. Then he asked me if I was hungry, famished I answered yes. He made me lunch for free and walked me to the Western Union, located all the way down the hill in the new town after I had my money transferred. Point being, I would recommend this hostel to anyone.

What To Do

Finally we get to the crux of this article, what to do in Gjirokaster. The most popular attraction Gjirokaster is the castle, so naturally I started my journey there. To get to the castle start from the old town. In its center is the old bazaar. This is where you will find the city’s most compelling buildings amongst the backdrop of the melting mountain snowcaps. There is a wide array of small businesses and some of the best traditional architecture in the city. Unfortunately for me at the time of my visit in 2017, much of it was under construction for restoration works. The old buildings, have gleaming whitewashed facades, mixed with wood and stone. These facades had lost their luster at the time of my visit and many were crumbling. So much so that many old town building facades were under netting. Looking at more recent pictures, the buildings are now reopened are are gleaming white. The streets are all cobblestone and during the day you can see carpets and other wares in the storefront. To get to there castle you must take a looping road, that circles the fortress. This road will eventually steepen and get you to the top. Be ready to walk, the imposing castle is located  336 metres (1,102 ft) in height.

While on this road I noticed a portal for an underground tunnel, not knowing what to expect i entered out of curiosity. This tunnel connects both sides of the mountain and as I discovered was a bomb shelter built by Enver Hoxha as protection for the communist elite. It was built by political prisoners imprisoned in the castle. The project began in the 60’s and took 15 years to complete. It is free to enter the tunnels but some local guides offer tours. 

When you finally get to the castle you will be greeted by the aptly named Hall of Arms, this is part of the Gjirokaster museum. This museum uses the walls of the fortress to tell the story of the city throughout the years. It deals with some of the tragedies the city has experience and elaborates on the characters that shaped it, including Ali Pasha, Hoxha, King Zog and Lord Byron Admission is payed but more than worth it, it is one of the best museums I have visited. Give yourself time to explore you can easily spend hours of your time here as the fortress is enormous.

You start in the eerie fortress basement and from there are ruined sections you can explore before getting into the restored section. Beware they are pitch dark! When you walk in the Hall of Arms you are greeted by a military display of arms, including tanks, artillery pieces and much more. These pieces were used in the quest for Albanian independence. It is quite impressive! Once past these corridors you enter the main part of the museum. The displays are pretty retro but I enjoyed it.

When you near the top of the castle you will be entering some of the newer parts of the complex. A portal will take you outside where you can admire the famous clock tower set upon the mountainous backdrop. This era of the fortress was improved upon in 1812 by Ali Pasha and is a great example of Turkish military architecture. He was also the builder of the complexes aqueduct.

Something that may stick out to you if you take your time to explore the complex is that you can find the ruins of a united states military plane. It was likely shot down over Albania during the cold war and put on display as a point of military pride for the nation.

Nearby, you can access a building that most tourist shy way from. This grim building is the prison of King Zog, the old monarch of Albania – before he was deposed by the Italian army in the Second World War. Built in 1930 to house political prisoners, this building is a testament to the tragic side of Albanian history. The prison was greatly expanded by the Partisans, the communist resistance during the Second World War. Although the partisans were heroes during the war, they then proceeded to rule the country by way of a reign of terror. The communists needed a place to make people disappear and the old fortress was a perfect base for them to jail royalist and dissenters. The museum details the history of the citadel during the years of Zogist rule and the Cold War as such it is a grim reminder of times past.

One quick comment, when you exit the fortress and attempt to take a panoramic shot from the back you look into a beautiful green valley. It saddened me to see that upon further inspection the fortress valley was filled with garbage at its bottom. I’m sure this will change as tourism and the standard of living continue to advance in strides.

There is plenty more to the city than the castle. In the city you can visit the house of the former dictator Enver Hoxha (now the ethnographic museum) and that of the regimes greatest dissenter the author Ismail Kadare. It may be a good idea to read his novel, Chronicle in Stone, before your visit. The novel describes life in a small Albanian city during the Second World War. While the Kadare house focuses on the author, the ethnographic museum has forgotten about the communist dictator. The four story house that shows off traditional Albanian clothing and decor of old Gjirokaster.

My last day in the city was fantastic. I received a call for a job interview that was supposed to be rescheduled. The interviewer was rude, even after I had explained that my situation. Having access to wifi from a park near my hostel I fielded her questions while enjoying the beautiful view. I turned the process on its head and actually got a second interview. At night, the city streets were deserted, so I stayed till late talking with the hostel owner over a bottle of locally produced Rakia.

Architecture

The houses in Gjirokastër are typical of many cities in Northern Greece, Albania and other mountainous areas in the Balkans. The difference is in the authenticity of the city. Gjirokastër is considered by many to be the best example of Ottoman architecture in Europe. Both Gjirokastër and its sister town of Berat are registered as UNESCO sites.

The city is built into the side of a hill, as such, limestone was the primary unit of construction. The homes consist of strong stone wall and sturdy limestone roof slats (how is that for a roof warranty!). The people of Gjirokastër were herders and many of the homes they built take shape of miniature towers. The homes are built in this fashion for defensive purposes, during the 19th century Albanian landowners were often caught up in clans warfare and blood-feuds, thus protection for their families and possessions were important. The stone cellars kept the perishable goods cold and the families often lived in close quarters with their animals to prevent theft. At night they would bring their livestock indoors where they would occupy the first floor and the family occupy the top floor on the top. As the family or clan expanded so to did the houses.

Further Reading on Architecture

For those interested, here is how city’s greatest author describes the landscape in the sequence of his book.

It was a strange city, and seemed to be cast up in the valley one winter’s night like some prehistoric creature clawing it’s way up the mountain. Everything in the city was old and made of stone, from the streets and fountains to the sprawling age-old houses covered in grey roof slates like gigantic scales. It is hard to believe that, under this powerful carapace, the tender flesh of life survived and reproduced.

Ismail Kadare, Chronicles in Stone

Culinary Tradition

Gjirokastër is the unofficial culinary capital of Albania, the old town offering the most authentic dishes and dining experiences in the country. The food here is a blend of Greek and Turkish traditions. As it was my first experience with Turkish cuisine, I was a bit apprehensive due to the language barrier (not understanding what I was I had ordered) but soon discovered the quality of the food and my apprehension disappeared.

The specialty food of the city is a food ball called Qifqi but other traditional Albanian dishes can be purchased as well. Qifqi is made of  made of fried rice bonded with eggs. Mint powder, black pepper, and salt are added for flavor. This dish is usually served with soup.

As for what to drink, there few bars in town. You will have better luck at a restaurant. Instead make friends and try the homemade Rakia, a fruit brandy that is native to the Balkans. Be forewarned, this spirit is very strong and Albanians will expect you to be able to hold your liquor. For more information on Balkan wine and spirits, click here.

For more information on great foods to try while enjoying your stay in the Balkans please click here.

Conclusion

Gjirokastër is isolated due to its geography and relative lack of touristic and physical infrastructure. Access to southern Albania can either be completed through the Airport of Corfu in Greece or the capital of Albania Tirana. both of these locations are far removed from the city and, furthermore, to the ones that do make it, the city is often bypassed for the coastal wonderland of the Albanian riviera. To those who make the trek inland, Gjirokastër has much to offer. It is possibly the most authentic place in the Balkans and one of my favourite destinations. Ali Pasha of Tepelene (Ioninna) forged his kingdom around the rugged south, the rare western traveller at that time must have been just as drawn to that untamed beauty as I was.