Gdańsk, Sopot and Solidarity – The Tri-City Area at a Glance
The prototype for the stunning townhouses found in dutch Amsterdam, Gdansk is one of the most important Hanseatic ports of old. This Baltic city has been an important hub of culture for both Poles and Germans alike and a city with a clout almost unmatched by other regional cities in either country. Gdansk is not just a relic of the past, whose histories have already faded but one with a lively modern historical pedigree. It was not so long ago that solidarity a workers union led the city (as well as the rest of Poland) into revolt against the Communist authorities issuing a new modern era in Poland.
Note: Danzig is the German name for the city and is often used interchangeably in history text books.
Geography
The Tri-City area, composed of Gdask, Sopot and Gdynia, is situated at the western end of a depression in the shoreline of the Baltic Sea in northern Poland. At the eastern end of the geographical feature you will find the old Prussian city of Königsberg (Kaliningrad), now under Russian hands. The rich coastal plain I known for its bountiful harvests and its industrial activity based on safe ports and their shipping activity. Protecting the shoreline of the Gulf of Gdansk from coastal erosion is large sandbar running from the point of Hel to the east of the city.
Transportation
Air Travel
The airport is clean and modern but not exactly ideally located. Far outside the city limits, the airport is practically useless for getting into the main stations at Gdansk or Gdynia. Taking the car is much more practical but the highway to the airfield is particularly busy.
Train Station
Once you are into one of the major center of the Tri-City metro area, train travel becomes very practical. The mainlines between these cities runs late into the evening, making a trip to Sopot for the nightlife or the beach particularly convenient.
History
Medieval Poland
The city is first mentioned in 997, by when its inhabitants was baptized by Adalbert of Prague. It was likely took form in 980 when Mieszko I of Poland built fortifications here to connect his kingdom to the Baltic Sea trade. As part of the Polish duchy of Pomerania it had a trading community of German settlers from the Hanseatic city of Lübeck in Germany, the city would have a long association with the league and the above mentioned center. That community would be expelled by the Poles in
Teutonic Knights
In 1301, the city was taken by the Danish. In response the Teutonic Knights were hired by Poland to retake the city. This task was completed in 1308 by the German kingdom of Brandenburg, and order was restored in the city by their allies the Teutonic Knights. The knights took possession of the city and promptly began to massacre the local Kashubian and Polish population, replacing them with Germans. It would be them who would found a castle and town for their commander called Osiek Hakelwerk, the future Danzig located where the old town is found today. 1358, Danzig joined the Hanseatic League (Hansa), a defensive maritime trading league consisting of cities on the Baltic and North Sea, city rights were granted soon after. This is a foundational event for the city and it would continue to gain in economic importance. Keep in mind for the “Exploring the Old Town” section of this article that some of the city’s largest trading partners were Flanders and the Netherlands, exporting raw material such as lumber and grain for more refined or exotic materials such as textiles and spices. This lead to the exchange of many non-commercial things including architecture ideals.
After the treaty of Treaty of Kalisz (1343), the legality of the knights possession was put in doubt and the town briefly returned to the crown of Poland after the Battle of Grunwald (Tannburg) in 1410 but was returned after the First Peace of Thorn.
Return To Poland
In 1440 the Prussian Confederation was formed, this was a revolt against the order for the arbitrary use of their power to imprison local officials. In 1454, they asked for the Kingdom of Poland to incorporate their territory into the nation leading to the Thirteen Years’ War between the Teutons and the Poles. In the aftermath of this conflict, Gdask was declared an independent city withing the republic of Poland as a reward for their support, this was called the “Great Privilege“.
In 1575 the city supported Maximilian II against Stephen Báthory during a conflict for the crown of Poland. Although they backed the wrong horse, the city was besieged for six months (1577). The town had to be bribed back into Stephen’s Poland, as he could not take the city. The town acknowledged Stephen’s rightful rule and Steven “apologized” to the tune of 200 000 Guilders (gold pennies).
Far from just being a center of commerce, the city developed into a scientific center and a meting pot of sorts with Poles, Jews, Latvians, Flemings, Scots and Dutch sharing the town.
Germany and Prussia
In 1734 the city was briefly occupied by Russia. in 1793 Second Partition of Poland, opposed by both Poles and Germans, saw the city annexed by the Germanic Kingdom of Prussia. The Mayor resigned and the city rose in revolt, only to be put down. Napoleon swept though the area in 1807 on his way to Russia and Danzig remained a free town until 1814. The city was returned to Prussia in 1815 and was eventually incorporated into the German empire.
Free City and the Second Word War
After the First World War Danzig was once again a free city, a compromise with Germany, in the creation of a new Polish state. Since the city’s population had skewed to a majority of ethnic German under occupation, it was not awarded to Poland, as it should have been. This concept of a free city was that an autonomous state, but one that offered Poland access to the sea so that it would not be landlocked. That wasn’t enough for Hitler and his expansionist band of idiots who used the fact that city was out of German hands as a Casus Belly against Poland in 1939, leading to what I consider the most cowardly of anti war sentiment over uttered by the French Left “Don’t die for Danzig”. In fact Hitler had long had designs on “living space” for Germans at the expense of Poland, a people he despised and saw as less than human. The war may have started in Danzig (and for Danzig) but Hitler would have found an excuse to invade its eastern neighbor anyway. For a description of what transpired in the first days of the way during the German invasion see the “Exploring the Port of Danzig and the Westerplatte” section.
Before the war, the Nazi’s influenced internal politics in the city in order to make life for local Poles a living hell. They took over the municipal government, removed polish symbols and shut down polish schools. Pogroms began against the Jews and during the first days of the war both poles and Jews were sent to concentration camps. In 1944, as the Soviets closed in on the city, a demographic shift ensued. German refugees from the east fleeing their pursuers overwhelmed the city hoping in cargo ships. All the while the city was heavily bombed by the allies completely obliterating the old town. When the Soviets entered the remaining town the inhabitants were subject to unspeakable acts of rape, pillage and murder not all that different then the Germans had subjected their captives. The new overload proved to be just as evil as the last.
Soviet Occupation and the Modern Era
After the war the remaining Germans were expelled and poles were relocated from eastern Poland, the repopulated by Russians and other ethnic minorities. In 1947, the Peoples Republic of Poland was declared, a puppet state to the USSR. The Soviets built of Gdansk as a center for it’s Baltic ambitions and the Port saw major investment, becoming one of the most important such facilities in Europe.
Gdansk would lead Poland out of its authoritarian years with protests that brought down leader Władysław Gomułka in the 70’s. More importantly, Solidarity, the famed trade union from Gdansk began its anti-communist activities in the 1980’s, bringing down the ruling Communist regime in 1989. Its leader, Lech Wałęsa, would become president of Poland.
Today the shipping port continues to thrive as Gdansk slowly rebuilds its name as a tourism destination of international repute.
Exploring the Tri-City Area
Tre Tri-City area is home to three cities as the name would suggest (duhhhh!); Gdask, Sopot and Gdynia. For practical reasons I have excluded the later from this post and instead added the industrial seaport of Gdansk. Gdynia is a modern city and of very little historic value to me whereas the New Port of Gdank (Nowy Port), albeit far outside the old town and practically its own city, has been host to dramatic historic events.
I picked up my friend Nick at the airport in Gdansk after a long drive from Warsaw. An avid foodie and adventurer, I had met him in Porto the year before. Together we would spend some time exploring the north of Poland’s history, food, drink and culture. It was nice to have someone with me that was into going to cool restaurants as it is usually some thing I skip out on a bit while traveling. Some of the pictures in this post are from his camera and it was nice to have a navigator after having to figure out the tangled mess of Gdasnk’s roads.
Exploring Old Gdansk
The stunning old city of Gdansk will be on every tourists radar, but my introduction to the city was rather less impressive. My hostel was located in a dingier corner of the city, where the postwar buildings and their strange angular courtyards were less than inviting. Graffiti may have plastered the walls but both the the Raduni Canal and the Market Hall were nearby so I was satisfied.
Kanał Raduni
My journey in Old Gdansk began along this historic 14th century canal-way. Built by the Teutonic Order in order to service the Great Mill (Wielki Młyn), this was an important part of the German city. It is also home to a stunning cluster of buildings best seen from the Most Miłości bridge. The view from the bridge centers around a bulkhead in the Canal. At the tip of this island is a timber framed Germanic styled building. Peeing up from the roofline is the triangular great mill and all the way at the back end is the St. Catherine’s Church. The latter masonry structure dates from 1239 and is the oldest church in the city. You will recognize it by its distinctive rooftop clock-tower! It now houses a museum of turret clocks (if that’s the sort of thing that interests you lol!) and the worlds first pulsar clock. When you are done with this clocktravaganza walk around the length of the canal and explore. Don’t miss Saint Bridget Church (Bazylika pw. św. Brygidy) and Mały Młyn (the Little Mill)!. Although this historical area is small it is the most Germanic looking area of the city. During the Soviet era reconstruction, traces of German Gdańsk were mostly (and purposely) extinguished and the Flemish architecture accentuated. This was of course politically motivated as was the rest of the reconstruction. More on this later!
Behind the bridge you will find the The Baltic Sea Cultural Center, an art gallery housed in an ornate Flemish style building.
Gdańsk Market Hall, Baszta Jacek and the St. Nicholas’ Church (The North Eastern Quadrant of the Old Town)
On the outer edge of the old town, across from the Raduni Canal (the north eastern quadrant) you will find a cluster of buildings that is as impressive as anywhere in the city. Centered around my favorite indoor market and food spot, it is a fantastic look at medieval Gdansk.
The first building that will stand out is Baszta Jacek, a tall octagonal structure better known as St. Hyacinth Tower. Constructed around the year 1400, it served as part of the city defensive system, some of which still remains. If you go to the south and western ends of the city you will find similar towers and dirt bastions, but they are not nearly in as good a shape as this one. On the other hand, you will still find traces of the extensive triangular moat filled with river water fed by sleuce gates in this part of the city, and although no longer particularly impressive they will give you a good idea of the scope of the project.
The Market Square at the base of the tower contains a bazar and is centered around the Market Hall housed in a 1896 Neo-Gothic styled structure, to me it seemed more like an armory than a market (Coincidentally the actual armoury looks more like a Flemish town hall!).
Beside the market, sandwiching the square, is St. Nicholas’ Church. This is the only catholic church in the city to survive the Second World War without a scratch. It was constructed in 1390, in masonry (like all churches in the ciy! there is a theme here!) and is richly decorated on the interior.
A cool feature when you do make it inside the market is that the renovations have exposed the foundations of the original St. Nicholas church in Gdansk. To access it walk down the stairs to the basement! The market itself has a mix of pastry shops, clothing stores, butchers and assorted vendors. I bought meat from one of he butcher shops for my train ride to Krakow and I must say polish butchers are fantastic (right up there with French Canadians!).
Alternatively you will have no problem finding traditional polish fare such as pierogies at the restaurants and bars nearby.
North Gdansk and the Kanał na Stępce
The north end of the of Gdansk is quite bizarre blending contemporary architecture and art, with that of old warehouses and small homes.It is in this part of the city that you will find three of the most prominent post war monuments as well as one of the largest contemporary museums, this one detailing the history of the Second World War (highly recommended!).
At the very northern end of the district, a few blocks east of the WW2 museum you will find the very tall (and shinny!) Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970, commemorating the violent putdown of protests centered in coastal cities over the increase in food prices. It is by far the ugliest of the three. Returning closer to the old town, you have a strange carved stone block commemorates Polish prisoners murdered in German prisons and concentration camps (1939-1945) as well as the Teutonic massacre of 1308 in Gdańsk. Finally not far south of the WW2 museum, you have the Monument to the Defenders of the Polish Post Office. This monument is the one most worth your time. Despite its bizarre appearance, almost like shards of metal emerging from the earth, it is of great significance to the Polish people. It is built in front of an active postal office, one that was attacked on the first day of the war after the Poles were overrun in the Westerplatte. The defenders were all summery executed in a merciless attack. Despite it being an active workplace, the office is open and hosts a small museum dedicated to the event.
Just behind the first monument you will find the Solidarity Center, a museum and library dedicated to the famous trade union. The contemporary structure looks like it was made out of rusted steel and has an interesting, almost crooked look to it.
The north end (like all parts of Gdansk!) contains a fantastic food scene. Particularly the area on the river going north towards the WW2 museum. If nightlife lovers check out the Bunker Nightclub, one of the few “true” clubs in the city. Made to look like a soviet “bunker” it is a multi level operation. It is pretty calm on slow days, as is most of Gdasnk compared to other polish metros. This is because the nearby beach town of Sopot soaks up many of the late night party goers.
On the other side of the Motlawa River, in the northern part of the city, you will find an island cut off from the eastern shore by the the Kanał na Stępce. It contains many prominant landmarks and institutions. The first one to catch your eye may be the “Sołdek.” a ship museum floating in the river. This post-war tanker serves as a branch of the National Maritime Museum.
One of the highlights of this island is the Frédéric Chopin Philharmonic, a giant mass of masonry jutting out from its angular position. Not far from this mass you will find hte Gdansk sign that yourists love to get pictures at.
Other buildings of note include the Royal Granary, a 16th century warehouse and the Narodowe Muzeum Morskie w Gdańsku, reconstructed 17th century granaries now housing the above mentioned national maritime museum.
At the north end of the island you will find the AmberSky Ferris Wheel. Although not really my speed, it is a great spot for a romantic evening and offers a surprisingly goof view from the top.
The island can be accessed by a mechanical footbridge that lifts for incoming ships.
Gdansk Waterfront
Just south of the island mentioned above, the canyon of the Gdansk waterfront forms on both sides of the river. This area was once at the very heart medieval Gdansk, before the age of tankers forced maritime traffic north to the Westerplatte.
The area nearest to the water is now home to a well kept promenade with patios and strolling tourists. You will find the occasional remnant of gate or tower and plenty of modern or pseudo historical residential structures, typical of Gdansk.
And yes you will find these lovely no anchor signs!
Prominent among the waterfront fortifications mentioned above are the Straganiarska Gate, the St. Mary’s Gate, St. John’s Gate, Chlebnicka Gate and the Zielona Brama. The most impresive of these are the the St. Mary’s Gate and Zielona Brama (the Green Gate). The former is a masonery structure flanked by turrets. It leads to the cathedral of the same name and offers the best view from its opening. The later is an ornate flemish slyled building leading from the Long Market across the river. These gates were primarly constructed during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Along the waterfront promenade you will find the archeology museum as well as the Black Pearl, a tourist ship that takes passengers to the Westerplatte (see further down in this post!)
The absolute centerpiece of the port is Brama Żuraw, amedieval crane dating from the 15th century. Damaged during the war it was rebuilt to minimise germanic stylistic features.
at night the riverfront is stunningly light up. I recomend crossing hte river to take a picture!
Central Gdansk
Wandering though any of the city gates, the old town appears and knocks you right in the gut, it is breathtakingly beautiful. You could be in Amsterdamn, Bruge or Ghent yet from the language around you it is clear that you are in Polska. As a Hanseatic town with strong ties to the Netherlands and Flanders, it should be no surprise that there are some resemblances. Oddly enough, it was used as a testing Bruges with many of the architects who worked on the city transposing their works back into cities throughout the low countries. Later, in the 16th century, it was the masters from dutch Antwerp (now Belgium) who would practice their craft here. Although the city has always been rather dutch looking, communist authorities had the old town rebuilt so that Germanic architectural features would be minimized thus accentuating the effect. There were once over 400 breweries in Gdansk, most concentrated in this part of the old town. The Soviet occupation put an end to the Germans and their love of beer. Until the 90’s the Poles were known for their Vodka but not so much their beers… no more! Like the rest of the country Gdansk has come back from the brink and there is an active beer scene in the city.
There are two principle attractions in the old town, Long Market and St. Mary’s Church. Along with these you will get to view beautiful residential structures many of witch were reconstructed during the war. One of these residential streets, Mariacka, the one that leads from St. Mary’s Gate to the church of the same name, is possibly the most quaint in the city. The tightly packed row homes spill out onto a narrow shared pedestrian space, filled with small terraces.
After a night out at the bunker club we walked back through the almost deserted streets of the old town. Wandering into one of the bars (still trying to figure out what one) we grabed a shot of vodka and a beer. Looking up at the ceiling I noticed an exposed “I” w-section steel beam, atypical for reconstruction. I got talking to the bartender and he pulled out some old photographs
*update: The bar is Józef K. – on Piwna street -Nick had it pinned in his uber app!*
While walking around at night make sure to check out the 17th century Royal Chapel, built into the side of St. Mary’s church. The baroque building really sands out among the crude masonry found behind it!
The church of St. Mary is one of the largest masonry religious structures in the world, with a maximum capacity of 25 000 people! One could call the interior cavernous but that would be a disservice to the quality finishes and detail that make this building beloved among the locals despite its size this building has personality and character! The building is anchored around a central tower that can be seen towering over the old town!
Built between 1343 and 1502, the church has withstood the rigors of time but was dangerously close to disrepair after the Second World War. At first the Nazi’s looted the building and then in 1945 it suffered heavy bombardment when the Soviets stormed the city! The rood had to be rebuilt in 1947 and restoration efforts are still ongoing.
The church if filled with artwork, most of its pieces were hidden in polish villages for safekeeping.
You will notice that the floors are uneven, this is due to the large amount of tombs, demarked by large slabs of stone, in the church ground.
A popular activity for tourists is to make the long climb up the belltower to the roof. This will give you a chance to observe the complex architectural elements of this gothic beast.
From the top you will get a magnificent view of the city below!
Before you leave make sure to check out the astronomical clock dating from 1464 once the largest clock in the world!
Similarly, from St, John’s gate you will find the Church of St. John, a smaller, yet beautiful structure. The inside of St. Mary’s reflects its years as a Lutheran facility, painted in in white. The same can be said for St. John but its inside pain has almost been completely lost, showing an interesting mix of bare masonry pillar/walls and a white ceiling.
When you are done at the church make sure to head south to the Long Market (Długi Targ), anchored by the Gdańsk Town Hall at the west and the Green Gate at the east. At the center of the square stands Neptune’s fountain. Dating from the 17th century, it is a symbol of Polish Gdasnk. It removed by Nazi regime but once again adorns this finely decorated public space.
The long market is the finest display of Flemish style developed in the city. The best example of this style is the Artus Court, just behind the fountain. The building dates from the 14th century and is now a museum. Further down towards the green gate you will find a museum on the “Free City”.
Długi Targ was conceived during the 13th century and was upgraded as the primary artery of Gdansk during the reign of the Teutonic Knights. At this time it was called the Gdańsk slaughter. In later centuries it became the royal road of the Polish Monarchs, hosting feasts and fireworks during their visits to the city. It also served as a place of execution of witches and assorted criminals.
The Gdańsk Town Hall, a slender masonry slander clocktower with a wide base. Today the hall no longer serves its original purpose but is a museum for those not yet tired of climbing, the tower offers panoramic views of the city. The building was started in the 14th century and was rebuilt after a fire in the 15th century, it is one of the finest examples of the Gothic–Renaissance style.
The market leads west to a set of triple gates along the fine Długa street.
These gates come into focus as you aproch, the first is the magnificent Golden Gate, the second a hunkering Mass is Katownia (The prison Tower) and the third is the Brama Wyżynna, an neoclassical stucture.
To the north along Piwna/Chlebnicka(gate) you will find the Great Armory, a Flemish styled building resembling the Green Gate.
Today the building hosts the academy of fine arts and some rotating exhibits.
A few shots of absinthe in me I wandered around the building. Makes sure to look up at the statues on the building they are great works of art!
Exploring the Port of Gdask (Nowy Port) and the Westerplatte
Although I am sure that a vast majority of people could probably tell you that the Second World War began in Poland, I am willing to be that one they would hard pressed to find someone who could pinpoint exactly where it all began. As the memories of the war have faded, so two did the eastern front in the minds of many. Poland’s invasion is a glanced over footnote in the minds of many who fast forward to the Fall of France and the Miracle of Dunkirk. The story of the Westerplatte is that of the fall of Poland, a tragic and dramatic event that can be relived by visiting an often overlooked part of the city, far outside its core. Fast forward in time and jump across the river, it would be the protest of Solidarity at Nowy Port that would take down communism.
For history lovers, much of modern Poland was made here in this drab industrial hinterland. A mess of railways, commercial activity and overgrown vegetation awaits the visitor. Although it may not be pretty, it is authentic to the spirit of the place as you can get. Do not miss it at any cost!
The Westerplatte
The Westerplatte peninsula is located at the mouth of Martwa Wilsa River in the Bay of Gdańsk, a major drain that connects to the agricultural heartland of Poland via the Vistula River. The city of Gdasnk itself is connected to this system via the Motlawa. Opposite to the peninsular landmass is Nowy Port, the modern harbor town of Gdansk. So why did Germany attack Danzig, specifically the Westerplatte first? And what makes this site so important to the Polish Nation?
When Danzig was a free city, Poland had the treaty right to built an munitions and rail depot on this land. This made it a strategic target for the Germans. Furthermore, due to its geographic location, he who controls this small piece of land controls Poland’s only access to the sea trapping the nation in an iron ring of German ports. You see, at the time of the Second World War Germany extended well beyond the confines of the Oder River, in the north-west of Poland it owned Pomerania and on the north-east a bulky swath of territory called East Prussia, this Danzig was sandwiched By Germany, making the invasion of the city as a primary target all the more viable. The defenders of the Westerplatte held out for over seven days against all odds. The enemy was better armed and had the support of their navy causing heavy bombardment. The peninsula was cut off on all side, making an effective relief all but impossible, leaving whose who fought here to their fate. This heroic act of sacrifice, along with that of the defender of the post office, gave Poland crucial days to prepare as best they could. Germany had not expected to waste so much time taking this location and by the time they completed their operation, the rest of their army was at the gates of Warsaw.
The idea behind the Westerplatte as is stands today is to serve as a giant open air museum supplementary to the indoor exhibits in the WW2 museum just outside the old town. You can reach the location by car or a municipal bus running from Gdansk. Alternativly you can take the Black Pearl tourist ship from the port of Gdansk. In retrospect I think this would make for a fantastic afternoon with a unique view of the river system!
The first relic of Poland’s defense system that you will witness when you arrive at Poland’s old military installation is Guardhouse No.1. This relic houses a small exhibit on its interior, along with some fired shell casing on the exterior.
Not far from the Barack’s you will find a memorial to those lost in combat. A a particularly moving story is that of Polish wireless operator, Kazimierz Rasiński. After the Westerplatte had capitulated, he was taken prisoner. The sargent was shot after brutal interrogation during which he refused to hand over radio codes. From the reading I had done, the men who fought here were young and some of the elite of the army. The German commander had been rather impressed by their courage and let their comanding officer keep his sword in captivity.
As you continue on you will see the old polish barracks, now an explorable ruins, the hollow concrete shell greeting visitors and showing them what king of heavy shelling the soldiers here would have been subjected too.
The path will eventually take you to the war monument, a towering soviet structure carved in large granite blocks. Completed in 1966, it is 25meters in height and is superposed to represent a jagged bayonet. Yearly national ceremonies commemorate the start of the Second World War, here, at this location.
Its podium is located on a man-made circular hill giving you a great view of Nowy Port!
On your way back to the parking lot, make sure to stop at the Westerplatte Beach. Although there are many better beaches in Europe, you will find many remnants of the polish sea defenses such as this bunker named Placówka.
Wisłoujście Fortress
Off the main road, into the decaying, heavily forested and pothole riddenand industrial backroads of the Westerplatte, You will find one of the best attractions in Gdasnk, Wisłoujście, although due to the off the beaten path nature of it you will surly be wondering if you are going in the right direction. After passing the n’th frieght truck, you will hit a small bridge that will carry you over a wide stream. A small traffic circle before the bridge serves as a dirt parking lot.
After a short walk you will come to a memorial in nth French and Polish. I was surprised to see some French language signs in Poland but luckily I am french and so I could read it! The memorial stone commemorates French diplomat and noble Louis de Bréhan de Plélo who came here with men to fight in the 1734 crisis by his volition after the paltry suport given to Poland’s French backed king Stanislas Leszczynski. Stanislas was encicled in Gdasnk by a mighty garrison of Russian troups and Louis tried to break the encirclement, leading to his death. The french envolvment in Poland was a failure but it is nice to learn about something I knew little about. The fort saw action in 1734 and as such as a suitable place for such a memorial.
The fort itself is now used as a docking spot for pleasure craft in its wide moat, a makeshift marina of sorts.
The gothic building consists of sturdy star shaped bastion walls and a circular inner tower that looks much like a ring of townhomes around a taller tower! It was originally conceived in the 14th century but has changed considerably since then with major iteration in 1609 when the outer bastion was conceived and in 1785 when it was finally converted to a lighthouse. It was originally a Teutonic structure and served to ward off invading fleets coming down the river channel. It was besieged to no avail multiple times in 1577 by Stefan Bathory, by the Swedes at the Battle of Oliwa in 1627, in 1734 by Russian-Saxon, in 1793 by Prussian, in 1807 by Napoleon, and in 1814 by the Prussian fleet. It briefly served as a naval base for the Polish Lithuanian-Commonwealth but is primary known for its unique architectural style and I can see why. THe central portion is very uniqueto anything I have ever seen!
Port of Gdask (Nowy Port)
Unfortunately to reach Nowy port, you will have to double back upon yourselves and cross the tunnel far to the south, before the old town. This makes visiting both sites in a day when you don’t have a car somewhat difficult.
The area is rather bleak, with a large stock of soviet era apartment blocks allowing you to enter the mind of the pool dockworkers that lived here in communist times. One piece of architecture that stands out it the neo-Gothic Niepokalanego Serca Maryi church. From the waterfront in the port of Gdasnk you will have the chance to view the 19th century North Harbor Lighthouse as well as the massive dockyard cranes that define the neighborhood. Make sure to take in the view of the Westerplatte while you are here!
Exploring Sopot
The seaside resort town of Sopot is a unique place, that is for sure. After a long day exploring Malbork and the Westerplatte, Nick and I wanted to go somewhere chill to spend the afternoon. Since we would be drinking, we parked the car at the hostel and took the train into town. The connection from Gdansk is direct and when you arrive in town it is only a kilometer walk on a stunning pedestrian boulevard into the city center from the station.
The city developed from a small fishing village, to a spa town for the citizens of Gdansk during the 16th century during the age of the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth. The elites built manor houses, enriching the urban fabric of the town. As mentioned in earlier in this post the contestant to the Polish throne, Stanisław Leszczyński stayed in the city in 1734 before the siege of Gdansk. Afterwards the city was burned to the ground by Russian Troops. After the war the polish nobility returned to rebuild. In 1772 Prussia under Frederick the Great took the city and confiscated the land and put it up for sale.
In 1823, the first sanitarium was opened by a retired french medic, a massive boom in medical facilities soon followed. This trend only accelerated with the opening of the railroad in 1870 and it became a tourism center for the whole northern coast of Poland and East Prussia (People coming in from as far as Königsberg and Warsaw, a center for both Germans and Poles). Eventually they came as far as Russia and Germany and it was a favorite of German emperor Wilhelm II of Germany.
During the 20th century the Germans began to rebuild most the city and historic structures like Karlikowo Manor, home King John II Casimir of Poland came down. The fine buildings, hotels and cultural institutions you see on the waterfront were constructed during this time period. Furthermore in 1928 the pier was extended to a length of 512 meters, still the longest Europe and one of the longest in the world. In the 1930’s tourism took a hit as Germans targeted the local Jewish and polish communities, previously making up a large part of the city’s tourism. It would emerge from WW2 rather better than most Polish towns and has recovered remarkably.
The main street is called Bohaterów Monte Cassino. It is lined with 19th and 20th century buildings typical of Baltic resort towns of this time period. It filters in to a large public space before hitting the Sopot Waterfront, beach and pier.
Both on the street and the square you will find many bars and restaurants. You will also find tacky attractions such as a wax museum and the Krzywy Domek, a crooked cafe! This is a very nice area and is safe but be forewarned you are likely to be accosted for some pretty prostitutes propositioning for sex. They are quite nice and easy to talk to, not aggressive, just say no thank you and be on your way!
On the other side of the square you will find the Skwer Kuracyjny (Curative Square) along the main pier building. It night the structure is stunningly lit. In front of it you will find a massive water fountain.
On the east side flanking the square you will find the iconic Sopot Lighthouse (Latarnia Morska), a funky 20th century building. On the west side facing the sea you will find the stunning Grand Sopot Hotel dating from 1927. I did not know this at the time of my visit but you can actually go up into the lighthouse for a panoramic view! I will defiantly have to come back and check it out!
When you are done make your way out on the pier (although I was disappointed that you have to pay for that privileged). The boardwalk will give you a fantastic view of the city from the sea. When you are done walk along the soft sandy beach where you will find plenty of huts out on the beautiful sand beach!
After exploring we walked over to a residential area in the east end of the city for supper. My buddy had found an interesting place to eat on trip advisor and I was starving. Walking though the area gave me a chance to observe the beautiful villas and assorted architectural gems from the city’s past. One of these buildings houses the Sopot Museum, another holds one of my favorite patios that of Tapas de Rucola. You will aslo find Salvator’s Church.
We ate at Karczma Irena, a rustic style inn and restaurant that I highly recommend. Known for its rustic bar and decor it has a fantastic menu of traditional polish foods.
We ordered some soups, Borscht, a beetroot soup and Żurek, a sour rye soup amongst other things. Both were delicious!
While out on the town it began to pour heavily. Trying to take refuge in Krzywy Domek, the volume of water was so high that the hallways were flooding. After it was decided that the rain was not going to die down we hit another bar. The floor was flooding in this one as well and someone came up with a mop as we came in. We drank until close. When we came out the rain had mostly subsided and we needed to get back home to Gdansk. As we were walking down Bohaterów Monte Cassino street, lighting pieced the sky near the Saint George in Sopot Church (kościół św. Jerzego w Sopocie)! An impressive display if there ever was one.
This church is a must see by the way!
Day Trips
Malbork (Marienburg Castle)
The largest castle in the world and one of the largest masonry structures ever conceived, this Teutonic Order stronghold was meant to control the trade of Amber down the river of which it is built upon. It eventually became to home to the monastic order and is a must see sight in Polska!
To learn more about Malbork, read my post on one of the great castles of the German people here.
Conclusion
The Tri-City area is one of Poland’s most dynamic metropolitan areas and of great importance to the history of the Polish nation. A visit to this sprawling area should be conducted in as many days as possible to take in the rich cultural heritage of the region. Since many attractions are located far apart I would not underestimate the time it takes to see everything. The longer you spend here the more it will grow on you!
