Gauja National Park and Sigulda – A Journey Into Old Livonian Wenden
Table of Contents
Intro and Geography
Located in a patch of forest north-east of Riga, Gauja is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the industrial city. The stunning natural habitat seems to offer the funny (strange and kind) Latvian people an escape and I even spotted on hugging a tree! Pleasantries aside the region is home to Latvia’s founding myths, medieval landscapes and crusading castles.
The park was established in 1973 and is named after the Gauja River that runs through it. The historic name for it is Wenden, the German name for the Livonian town of Cēsis. It is easy to picture Lāčplēsis – The Bear Slayer – a Latvian national hero patrolling the forests of this park
Highlights
- Bobsled Track
- Sigulda (and its Castles!)
- Gūtmaņala
- Turaida
- Secret Soviet Bunker (Līgatne)
- Līgatnes papīrfabrika
- Cēsis
- Sietiņiezis
Exploring Gauja
Sigulda Bobsleigh Track
Latvia may not be a big Olympic player but there is one sport they excel at…Bobsleigh. This was a surprise to me as Latvia is not known for its hills, or winter downhill activities, but as a legacy from Soviet rule they do have one hell of a bobsled track! With medals in the 2014 and 2018. The site is also used for luge and skeleton events.
Today one can visit the facilities. Upon walking inside the training center (in the off-season of course!), you can take the stairs up ti the top of the track and run downs its length at a very high speed. At the bottom you will find a model sled with the medal count for world cup events as a backdrop. This is made for photo taking!
Furthermore the view from the top you will get your first glimpse at the thick forests of Gauja.
Sigulda
This small town on the edge of the park is a strange one. Located just up the road from the Bobsled track, it is a quaint settlement but not particularly remarkable by Latvian standards. It is spread out over a large area and almost feels as if it does not have a town center. If you are craving a quick snack stop by the area near the train station. Here you will find Jāņa Tirgus, a very cheap (even by Baltic standards), and fantastic, shawarma shop and patio.
For more expensive fare, stop by the Hotel Sigulda, a beautiful moss covered building on the road to the castle, just north of the station.
Sigulda is home to the previously mentioned train station. Recently renovated it now serves as a tourism center. For those wishing to explore the park via public transportation, you can take the train from Riga into town and a shuttle service leaving from town can drop you off at some of the attractions. The night before my visit I befriended a great group of Irish guys while on a beer tasting tour and was invited to go to Sigulda with them in their car, so that was awesome!
Although there are not many sights in town, the Lutheran Church built near the Sigulda Castles is rather iconic for this town. The parish of Sigulda was established back in 1225 and a church was established in this location just a year later. The church you see today was mentioned as the church of St. Bartholomew in 1483 as part of the Livonian chronicles.
Up on a hill overlooking the Gauja River, before road curves towards a bridge crossing said river you will find Sigulda’s two castles. The first of these is the New Castle of Sigulda.
This Neo-Gothic manor house was owned by the Kropotkin family, the patriarch being a Russian aristocrat. The construction 1881 building was completed with reused materials from existing ruins and was designed by a Latvian man, Jānis Mengelis from Cēsis – hence why the building first so well with the aesthetic of the park. In 1922 it was used by the Latvian Union of Writers and Journalists, thus giving it the name the Writers’ Castle, later to be bought by the Latvian Press Society making it an important monument to interbellum Lavian high society.
During World War II, the New Castle was used as a headquarters for the Nord division of the German army and later it was used as a recreation house for state official under the USSR. Due to ongoing renovations at the time of my visit I could not visit the inside.
In behind the new castle you will find the remains of the old castle, a Livonian Order Structure built in 1207 to house Land Marshal of the Order, the second in command. From far you can see the red cross of Livonian order. The castle was used by Brothers of the Sword fend off the native Livonians and control the Gauja River in competition with Bishop Albert in Riga, his base of power located under Turaida Castle on the opposite side of the River. The order and the bishops split the land and spoils of their conquests and as such it was an uneasy salience. In 1237 the lands of the Livonian Brothers of the Sword become the property of the Teutonic Order who continued the mission of converting and acquiring additional territory in Lavia until 1290.
The Castle was damaged during the Livonian war between Sweden and the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth, but the Poles repaired thereafter, using it as a home for their governor. During the following Polish Swedish war the castle would again be damaged and the castle was abandoned again during the Great Northern War.
The ruins can be explored, with the bulk of the main castle being restored along with a reconstructed and reinforced north tower. Inside the restoration you can sit on a faux Teutonic Order castle.
In the corner of the watchtowers mentioned above, an elevator will bring you up to the top for a great view. On the opposite side of the road, away from the castle there is an opposite lookout called S with a similar view! From here you can take a cable car across the river to Krimulda.
Speaking of which, directly across the river you will find a stunning estate called the Krimulda Loge and what little is left of the Krimulda Castle
Gūtmaņala
The largest cave in the Baltic region, Gūtmaņala dates from 10 000 years ago. The walls are covered in ancient graffiti, some of it dating from the 17th century, as well on the interior of the cave you will find the coats-of-arms and the names of several barons and estate owners. What is so darn special about this cave that so many would want to visit it then? It is its relationship with the rich undercurrent of Latvian lore, specifically a story called the Rose of Turaida.
This story dates from the time of the Polish Swedish war, when the Swedish army occupied nearby Turaida castle. After a battle near the castle a record keeper found a little girl in the pile of dead bodies, he would raise her as her own and she would develop into a beautiful young girl, the “Rose of Turaida”. Her fiancé, a man named Victor Hail worked in nearby Sigulda Castle gardener, would often meet her in the evenings at Gutman’s Cave, halfway between them. She was harassed by a Polish army deserter Jakubovsky, whom she rejected. Angered, the vile man, sent her a message “from Victor” to meet at their usual spot. Yet it was him who met her there and he tried to rape her. Preferring death than to be shamed, she was killed by the conniving deserter. Victor was accused of the crime but eventually absolved and laid his love’s body to rest.
This story is considered to be the “Romeo and Juliette” of Latvia, an example of Latvian romanticism for the strong love between both the protagonists, despite the tragic end. It is said that the adjacent cave “Victor’s Cave” was carved by the hero for his betrothed. As such Sigualda is often referred to as the “Lover’s City”.
Turaida
The most famous site in Guauja national park, this reconstructed masonry structure is considered to be an icon of old Livonia.
While walking to the Castle, you will pass a red painted church, a beautiful Lutheran church dating from 1750.
Just pass the church you will find Dainu Hill, home to a sculpture park filled with strange and wondrous creations. The park is dedicated to Latvian folklore, specifically in honour of Krišjānis Barons one of the most important compiler of Latvian folk songs. It was established in 1985, hence the blunt artistic style.
Finally you will reach the castle itself, easily identifiable by its tall central tower with its distinctive pointed roof. This castle is probably situated on the most prominent river valley ridge.
Constructed under order from Bishop Albert of Riga in 1214 at the location of a previous wooden Livonian castle, it was called Fredeland (‘Land of Peace’) but was known by the Livonians as Turaida.
The version of the castle you see today dates from the 14th century, with major additions such as the central tower coming later in the 15th century. In the castle courtyard to you will find the ruined foundations of the outlying buildings that were constructed inside the complex. You can also shoot “arrows” from a paid archery course near the northern most part of the wall.
The castle lost its importance during the 17th century and was abandoned after and 1776 fire. The castle was a ruin in the 20th century but after 1976 archaeological research and restoration followed. The restored building details the history of the castle and that of Gauja more generally.
Of course, you need to climb up the central tower before leaving the premise. The inside is pretty barren but this fireplace is cool!
From the top of the the central tower you will get a look at the river valley, along with the the obvious geological features (ridges) that surround it. The view of the castle from up here is likely one of the most photographed in the nation.
Although this castle can be seen fairly quickly makes sure to walk the perimeter of the complex to observe what part of the works are reconstructed. The sheen of the masonry should give you a good idea, the ruins of this place must have one been pretty impressive in their own right!
Līgatne
Secret Soviet Bunker
Near the sandstone rock formations of Līgatne, you will find a Soviet era nuclear fallout shelter meant to house several elites. Today it is filled with interactive exhibits that bring the Cold War to live.
Līgatnes Papīrfabrika
Nestled in the Latvian forest of Gauja Park, the Ligatnes Paper factory can sneek up on you. Although this abandoned wonderland is officially closed to the public, guided tours are often organized by the tourism board for a small fee. This massive masonry complex, with a system of water canals, in the heart of the unspoiled park may seem strange place for a paper mill but Līgatnes papīrfabrika but it is located in the middle of thick forests so it may not be so crazy after all. Starting in 1815, facilities have been constructed or planned for this site, only ceasing operation in 2014. During this time it exported to all 5 continent in the world and was once the main producer of high-quality stationery of Tsarist Russia, producing such products as Tsarist Army cards and watermarked papers.
Cēsis
Built a few kilometers east of the Gauja river, in the forested center of the park, the medieval town of Cesis (Wenden) became home to the Livonian Order after they vacated their castle in Riga. The 2014 capital of culture still retains much of its medieval charm and is much more impressive than Sigualda, albeit less accessible.
For those taking public transit, you will be glad to learn the city has a train station. A Riga to Cecis train runs to the village and takes about a 2hours ride to reach its destination.
The town is built around Wenden, a hill castle, constructed in 1209. It was the home of the Grand Master of the Livonian Order. Much like Sigulda, you will find the Cesis Castle Manor House, the”New Castle”, to the north-east of the old castle, as if a new facade was built to greet you into the ruins. In the new castle yard you will find an exhibition hall and the stunning main building itself. A gate built into to outer wall leads to the city streets, specifically Pils Iela where you will find Sirdsapziņas Ugunskurs, a museum dedicated to the Latvian resistance during Soviet times. The resistance to the regime took parts in all of Latvia, but were particularly concentrated in Cesis itself from 1940-1947. The inside of the building looks like a decapitated holding facility complete with isolation cells and all.
The New Castle itself is now the Cēsis history and art museum, and is practically attached to the old castle itself. It was constructed in the 18th century by a Baltic German count. The baron, Count Sievers was in the service of the Russian Empire and owned many such estates. Inside the museum you will find the Sievers’ study and the castle library. From the tower you will get a treat, the roof opens up to a view of village below.
A pretty stone staircase, with elegant streetlights leads down to a beautiful man made pond .
Off to the north side, you will sea an industrial building, made of masonry brick with a distinctive tower. This building until recently belonged to Cēsu Alus, is the oldest brewery in Latvia ans is typical of German estates at this time, many of which had their own breweries. Built in 1878, still during the tell end of the Sievers family era, it now serves over 60% of the Latvian market and I must say it is an excellent beer but talking to locals, they will all tell you that the quality of the drink has decreased since the move to new digs.
The beer actually has a longer history, first being brewed in 1590 in the castle itself, going in in out of favor in the centuries since then. Speaking of which, more stone steps lead up the the castle and castle park dating from 1812, a leafy green area that is prettiest in the summer and fall. The park is home to exotic plants and it is said that on a good day the castle can be seen reflected in the pond, but this was not the case on the day of my visit. The castle is a ruin and if you get a guided tour offered from the Castle Manor House, you can view the dimly lit underground passages and rooms via candlelight.
The castle was destroyed in 1577 to prevent it from falling to Russian control then under control of Ivan the Terrible. Just a year later he was defeated in the Battle of Wenden and the castle would continue to be used for a time by the Polish-Lithuanian army starting in 1598, then by Sweden in 1620. Again the castle was destroyed, this time by the Russians during the Great Northern War in 1703. Count Sievers purchased the property in 1777.
Just east of the property, Karl Eberhard von Sievers would order the construction of the Cēsis Enlightenment (tranfiguration) of Christ Orthodox Church, early 19th century. In constrast to the germanic cathedral in the center of town, this building is in Russian Style and an obvious tribute to his Russian benefactors.
Of particular intrest to me were the pretty and detailed iron crosses used as grave markers.
The area just past this church is on the outskirts of town and you will have to follow the road back into town. Just use the cathedral tower mentioned below for orientation.
The town of Cecis itself is one of the most authentic villages in the Baltic, almost untouched by modernity and retaining much of its crumbling medieval charm. The town developped around the south side of the caslte at the back half of the 13th century. It once was protected by a stone wall
The town was located at an important trading junction and during the early years developed around a central market square, with guildhouses and the German Cathedral. The town may seem small now but this town was a power center in the Baltic region 1237 up to 1561, and the market square was at the center of it all.
The cathedral was under restoration at the time of my visit, like many of Cecis’ landmarks and I will have to return to see them in better order, (although I would have loved to see them in their previous ruinous state).
The Cēsis St. John Evangelical Lutheran Church, previously a catholic institution, was built during the very founding of Wendon at the beggening of the 13th century as the main place of worship for Livonian Order soldiers. The church is the largest medival basilica outside Riga. The gargantuan 65 m high bell-tower, with 15 m high Gothic spire is the centerpiece of the building but still as impressive are the 1000 seats provided inside the buildings nave. Oddlt enoguh the the doorstep is exactly 100m above see level
Before you go check out the “The Old Man of Time”/“Through the Centuries” statue located near the church, it is a local favorite. The hunchback monk is holding a lantern. Legend states that the monk light lanterns around town to illuminate the city at night, helping to keep it safe.
In later years the toen became a health resort and cottage retreat for Latvian high society and many new buildings were incorporated in the latvian medieval street plan.
Sietiņiezis
The Gauja river is renowned for its Sandstone outcroppings, the most impressive of which is Sietiņiezis Rock. The path leading in to this area will give you a fantastic view of the murky Gauja.
The rock is is situated on the right bank of the Gauja River, between the towns of Valmiera (like the Beer!) and Janmuiza, almost 2 kilometers downstream from Liepas Rock.
The trail will also give you a chance to experience the beautiful Latvian forest, where many Latvian legends took place.
The tall thin vegetation looks fantastic as the light filters though. The park is home to 900 vegetation species from soil up.
The path will lead you down near the river itself where you will encounter the rock face.
The rock itself is 15 meters high and is littered with insect aisles.
You will find many carvings into the soft rock itself.
In one are you will find a collapsed arch, now but a wind carved pillar.
Conclusion
Gauja National park may be an easy day trip from Riga, yet its accessibility does not reduce the impart of its unspoiled rural charm. Beyond the stunning castles and the rock formation, is the charm of old Livonia – the very heart of old Lavia. What are you waiting for? Book a flight to Riga and come out to the countryside so that you may experience old Wenden, sit on a patio in Cesis with its fantastic beer, and marvel at the beauty you have experienced over the course of the day.
