From Stanstead to Coaticook with a Stop at Mount Pinnacle – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 3)
Expanding on my previous post on the Eastern Townships, this article will explore the area of the townships longing the southern border with the United States. This area is known for its rural charm, quaint towns, stunning churches and wonderful nature trails.
I recommend doing this region of the townships by car as public transit is virtually non existent. I recommend taking off from Magog or Sherbrooke but alternatively Coaticook has a wonderful municipal campground that is well worth staying at for its award winning Foresta Lumina display. You could also stay at the campground at Lake Lyster as it is equally as pretty and you could get up early in the morning to climb the mountain before the crowds get there.
Please see the following posts for more information on the different geographical areas of the Eastern Townships:
- Sherbrooke, Lennoxville and the Industrial-Academic Heartland of Old Quebec – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 1)
- Magog, Orford and the Land of the Lakes – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 2)
- From Stanstead to Coaticook with a Stop at Mount Pinnacle – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 3)
Table of Contents
Geography
See An Introduction to the Eastern Townships Part 1.
A Brief History
See An Introduction to the Eastern Townships Part 1.
Exploring the Townships
I set off from Magog, with a long day in mind. I was going to drive south towards on Highway 55 (I91) the US border and explore one of the most unique and natural beautiful areas in Canada.
The sights covered in this post will be the following:
- Stanstead Stone Circle
- The Haskell Free Library / Stanstead
- Crystal Lake Cemetary
- Mount Pinacle / Baldwin Mills / Lac Lyster
- Coaticook/Park de la Gorge de Coaticook
Stanstead and the US Border
Located to the the east of Lake Memphremagog, Stanstead is a city divided in half. On the US side you will find Derby Line, Vermont but for all intents and purposes they are the same city.
Stanstead Stone Circle
One exit before you hit the US border on highway 55, turn off to the west. This road will take you into town. On your way in you will see the town church rising above the treeline and a turn off for the stone circle.
Although a tad tacky, this attraction is actually a lot of fun! Its official name is the Stanstead Stone Circle – but I call it Stan-Henge!
The site is a giant green field, a riverfront park with the Stanstead College up on a hill behind it.
This modern art installation, resembling a neolithic stone circle, was erected in the 2000’s. Although one vague artistic interpretation of the structure is one of peace between two neighbors, it also represents the 45th parallel and the granite industry that has played a large part in the history of this part of Quebec,.
At its center is a beautiful stone showing the 45th parallel and what is located in different cardinal directions.
Haskell Free Library and the US Border
Tucked in south of the stone circle is an old neighborhood of Stansteads with beautiful homes and some of the most iconic buildings in the town. One of these is the old customs house. This building is so damn old that there is actually different sides for both men and women to enter hte structure… Just kidding the doors area actually separate entrances for the post office and the customs house. Unfortunately this old school building no longer serves its original purpose but is still a stunning site. New modern custom houses have been built on the highway/interstate but there is something quaint about being able to walk into a building such as this.
Just around the corner you will find the Église Stanstead South United. Built in 1879, this wood building as some interesting designs on it side that make it seem almost pagan or naturalist. Built in neogothic style, with symbols invoking the trinity, it is one of the most unique rural churches I have seen in Quebec (and this province has a lot of churches!).
Continuing along this street you will come across the Haskell free library, a truly international book rental and opera house opened 1904. The building is split in half, with part of its footprint on the Canadian side and the other on the American. The polyganol tower that is the main feature of the building is constructed flush with the border that that it hits in perpendicularly. The borderline is painted in black on the buildings inside. The building is actually located at two addresses 93 Caswell Avenue in Derby Line, Vermont, and 1 rue Church in Stanstead, Quebec.
At street level, the border is represented by flower pots with signs warning you not too cross.
Of course I couldn’t help myself. Covid restrictions be damned i crossed over! In normal times this type of crossing in clandestine for the towns residents. These are practically the same cities after all!
Back in town you could check out the buildings in the side streets. You will find a mix of large family homes and hulking country estates.
Dufferin Street and the Stanstead College
Dufferin is Stanstead’s main strip. Following the street north from the border you will find Steanstead College. This very American looking boarding school was founded in 1872 as Stanstead Wesleyan College. Today the school is known for its athletics program. The masonry building campus is very pretty.
Further down on Dufferin you will find a pretty stone church and the stone building that is the Colby-Curtis Museum. A museum since 1929, the historic stone building from 1859 tells the story of a prominent Stanstead family.
Keep an eye out for the society houses that are typical of this type of institution. Some are very pretty!
Lake Crystal Cemetary
Leaving the town via Dufferin, and turning east on winding dirt roads, towards Mount Pinnacle you will come across the stunning Crystal Lake Cemetery.
This plot of land looks like it should accomodate some important famillies, but remember you are out on the wild Loyalist frontier of Quebec, these are all figures that were away from the spotlight.
The surprisingly well maintained rural cemetery is positioned above Crystal lake is is known for its pretty nature views.
Harold F. Baldwin Park (Mont Pinnacle)
The famous Mount Pinacle is located so close to the US border, and on a lake of stunning natural beauty, yet it is so far away from regional roads or anything of significance that it manages to keep its rural character intact.
You will start your journey to the top of Mount Pinnacle at the tiny town of Baldwin’s Mills. The main landmark in this town in the small 1888 United Church.
Outside of the town’s limits, across the lake from the town, you will find a the Lake Lyster Beach offering a pristine view of the climb.
BAck in town you will likely find the parking lot full. Park off to the side of the nearby rural road, Chemin Allard, if this is the case. Not from from this road, just up the perpendicular May Road you will find the entrance to the hiking train.
The hike takes you though a 4.3km hike through the woods and eventually up the mountain itself.
This is a very easy hike, less than 200m in elevation and can probably be completed in an hour and a half (0.5 up, 0.5 down and 0.5 to admire the view at the top).
The view from the top is absolutely stunning especially that from a rocky “pinnacle” for lack of a better word, jutting out of the mountain.
From this elevation you will have a great view of the oval shaped lake below. The wonderful part about the viewpoint is the absence of any kind of development at hall.
In the distance you will seethe Vermont foothills, in fall they have a nice golden hue. Unfortunately if you don’t get here early in the morning it may be relatively busy at the top! This is a popular hike with families due to its easy level of difficulties.
A circular trail will take you on a loop around the top of the hill and down to the lower rock outcropping for a great viewpoint , with a closer look at the Little Baldwin Lake, a small lake at the southern extend of Lake Lyster.
Here are a few more pictures from the top of the mountain. I’m sorry it it is excessive but it is one of my Favorite Hikes in Quebec.
Coaticook and the Gorge
This major dairy producing region of Quebec, again of Loyalist origins, is a great hiking destination. The name can roughly be translated to “where the river is bordered by white pines” in English. Like all eastern townships cities, it has a pretty 19th century main street with imposing buildings such as a bank, city hall and post office.
The real beauty of this town can be found in the nature surrounding it. As mentioned previously, head south towards Lake Lyster near the Canada-US boarder to climb Mount Pinnacle. Part of the Park Harold F. Baldwin, this hike will lake you up the lakefront rockface for a great view of the untouched natural area.
Another great hike is the Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook, right in town. It is home longest suspended footbridge in North America!
The Town of Coaticook
Just north of the town is the Microbrasserie Coaticook. Stop off at this amazing craft brewery to grab beers for your walk through the gorge.
For more information of Great Quebec Brews, check out my article here.
The picturesque main street is at the very heart of the county. This is one of the most beautiful of the Township’s small towns. It was founded in 1818 by New England Loyalists and although it is small it has a lot of character.
Make sure to catch the Beaulne Museum, a historic house detailing the history of the Norton family.
Starving after a day of hiking, I met up with friends staying at the Coaticook Gorge campground and we drove into town. We stopped at Ailleurs Bar in town, a beautiful Ivy covered building.
The food here is delicious and the inside of the bar simply stunning.
Before you leave town, make sure to check out the old Coaticook train station. Due to the town’s position on the southern border between Canada and the United States, this station was a major transit point for the movement of cattle by rail car. The station was part of the St. Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad (1840’s) linking the Canadian metropolis of Montreal with the port of Portland, Maine with the passenger station being complete in 1853 and a new one to replace it in 1904. Not only was it a surprise that a passenger station was built in such a small hamlet but also that it was built in the pictures style.
The stunning timber-framed building includes a conical and gabled roof and sits in a residential part of town. Today it serves as a microbrewery, which my dad enjoyed very much!
Be sure to pick up some cans as they have some interesting artwork, including one of Canadian prime minister Justin Trudeau burning though taxpayers dollars!
Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook
The main attraction of Coaticook is the Gorge, a massive canyon like depression that cuts through the earth winding towards the city of Coaticook. The stream runs south to north starting in the US, sunning past the town and into Canadian soil. Several damns have existed on this river over the years. The campground is located at the base of this gorge, among the tree covered land of the park. A public parking lot exists at the location of the trail and one can enter a collection of stone buildings.
There are over 8.5km’s of trails here but for those in a rush you may want to take the 2km loop. The pathway is the same used for Foresta Lumina at night when the pathway is illuminated in the most wonderful ways. A gallery of night pictures has been included at the end of this post so that you may see what this display looks like.
Coming up the cliff to the famous pedestrian bridge. Located 50m above the gorge itself it is considered to be the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world.
From the bouncy bridge you will get a majestic view of the Coaticook River below. A cross and observation post can be found on the opposite side of the bridge.
From the opposite side of the pathway you will have access to the gorge river bed below where people have made some rock art over the years.
Following the path upstream you will find an old dam and power generating station.
Walking downsteam path you will see another old power generation station with views of the bridge above.
Eventually you will com cross a second dam, this one in rough shape and an old masonry factory.
Continuing south you will eventually come to the campground at the campground site you will find a beautiful red round barn that looks like it belongs in Vermont and a covered bridge.
From the campsite there are several other activities you can do including several other sets of hiking trails. There are are plenty of lookout towers on these trails and a cave.
Foresta Lumina Gallery
Here are some pictures of the above mentioned nighttime event at the Coaticook gorge.
Conclusion
This leg of the Easter Townships is perhaps the most stunning of all. Away from the big centers, you will have a chance to connect with the genuine rural charm of this part of the country. This is truly a place that is greater than the sum of its parts. Mt. Pinnacle may be small compared to other Quebec hills but its views are some of the best in the province, Stanstead has a random stone circle and an international library and Coaticook a stunning gorge with a long pedestrian bridge. Whats not to like?
