From Plattsburg to Lake Placid: A Foray Into the Heart of the Adirondacks
I have passed though the small city of Plattsburg a few times on my way from Montreal to New York and never thought much of the city. Finally, one day I stopped in town for breakfast and was pleasantly surprised. This town is a great base camp to start your exploration of the Adirondack or, alternatively, the Champlain region of New York State from Canada.
The first half of this post outlines a route though the Adirondacks from Plattsburg just north of the Adirondack park to Lake Placid in the center of the park. The second half consist of a route from Lake Placid to Lake George though the heart of the Park. This is an easy weekend/extended weekend trip for those interested and you can add/drop some of these suggestions depending on your time constraints.
This post covers the following locations, some of which have a blog page of their own for additional information:
- Plattsburg
- Ausable Chasm
- Wilmington
- Whiteface
- High Falls Gorge
- Lake Placid
- Saranac Lake
- Tupper Lake
- Long Lake
- Lake George
The map below displays the locations mentioned above:
Table of Contents
Plattsburg to Lake Placid
This section of the trip will take you off the highway (I87) and onto proper country roads, with mountains views and sweeping vistas.
Plattsburg
The land that is park of Clinton County today was discovered by the French explorer Samuel De Champlain and was incorporated into New France. The land passed to the British and finally to the Americans where Zephaniah Platt, an American politician founded the city in 1785. The town is mostly associated with its educational institutions and the War of 1812. For Canadians, we are familiar with Plattsburg as being one the last major battle of the war, where British and Americans naval squadrons duked it out on Lake Champlain. What I was not aware of was that the Revolutionary War battle, that of Valcour Island took place nearby. In this battle Benedict Arnold, commanded an American naval fleet on Lake Champlain and although the battle resulted in a loss, Arnold was able to stall the British advance into America.
After the war of 1812, peace between Canada and the United States ensured that the once strategically important (see explosive) Champlain region remained calm. The city developed as a college town and a large US Air Force base was active here until the 1990’s. The classic album Frampton Comes Alive! was in part recorded here during a concert at the college campus.
The town is connected to the world via spirit airlines, serving both Montreal and Plattsburg and Amtrak railways though the Adirondack line. The train ride is one of the most scenic on the eastern seaboard but is painfully slow, as such suffers from low ridership. If you plan on taking the train the New York to Montreal journey takes about 10 hours, so bring a book! If you are looking for things to do in town, you can go to the beach, visit a small museum and view the MacDonough Monument, an imposing 1812 obelisk located downtown. The town is heavily reliant on Canada for its economy and many signs are bilingual do to the influx of French Canadians from Quebec in the summertime.
Ausable (20.9 km/ 13mi)
This town is located near Ausable Chasm, a waterfall fed by the Ausable river. It’s canyon is the most impressive in New York State and is often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks”. Its a tacky name but one that seems to draw a large crowd to both the Clinton and Essex counties. Activities at the canyon include rafting, nature trails, rock climbing and even ghost story tours. This is also the location of a great local underground railroad museum. For more information of the Chasm itself, click here.
The campground at nearby Ausable Point is a great place to set up for your exploration of the region. It is on Lake Champlain and ports and excellent beach and good facilities. For more information on this location please see my post on the Lake Champlain region of New York State.
Wilmington (62.3 km / 38.7 mi)
This small town hosts coffee shop and a pretty Methodist church. It is good place to grab a snack before doing some hiking at Whiteface mountain. The North Pole, a Santa themed campground is nearby but I have not stayed there. You will also find many motels and other forms of accommodation as you are approaching Placid. If its a hot day, there are several retro ice cream shops such as the Whitebrook Dairy Bar.
Whiteface (68.6 km / 42.6 mi)
As you approach the turn for Whiteface ski resort, you will notice the Wilmington Notch campground. I stayed here the night before hiking the mountain. An ideal location, but one that seems to be filled with boring campers. I arrived at the campground late from Montreal, after having been held up at the boarder. I arrived at 10 pm, it was pitch black and I pulled in, trying to find my camping spot, I got screamed at by some angry camper asking me to turn off my lights. If you wanted me to get set up quicker, you could just help me do so!
Whiteface, the former Olympic ski venue is now host to many activities. In the summer you can hike the mountain, take a cable car up or even attend a concert series called rock the face! In the winter, skiing is the main attraction, something I have done several times here throughout my life.
After a morning coffee, we pulled into the ski chalet area. Since it is the off-season, you can pull into the apple parking in the gravel lot at the base of the hill. On the day we showed up the top peak was obscured by clouds but there was quite a bit of sunshine as well. The famous ski resort has (4) ways up:
- For those looking for a challenge, you can hike the 4,865 feet (1438m) up the mountain. Be careful what path you take up the mountain or your climb may be in vain, the paths are not marked well and some just take you to the secondary ski lifts. If the right path is chosen you will meet the Veterans memorial highway at the castle like gift shop and cafe.
- The second way it to take the gondola up the mountain, a fairly standard way of getting up the mountain. Beware this gondola stops at the top of Little Whiteface.
- The third is a 400m passage that take an elevator. This elevator brings you to the top of Whiteface. It was closed for renovations during my 2018 visit.
- The last, and my favourite is to drive up the mountain. From there you take the remaining hiking trail to the top of the mountain.
I both hiked and driven up Whiteface. Driving is a unique experience that I would recommend to anyone. For those doing the trek up to all the high peaks, this is a good mountain as your family can meet you at the top. The roadway up is a Depression Era, make work project, called the Veterans Memorial Highway. You will drive though a small toll house on your way in where you will pay a carload fee. The road winds up to the top where it meets “The Castle”, a small gift shop and cafe. Park you car. From here you will take a stone staircase to the top of the mountain.
At the top of this staircase, you will walk up onto a large rocky outcropping. This is where the weather station is located as well as the elevator. Go take a picture by a sign indicating the distance. If you hiked that’s one hell of a climb!
High Falls George (70.2 km’s / 43.6 mi)
This nature trail along of the Ausable River leads to an impressive gorge. Just bear in mind that this is a payed attraction. There are plenty of free trails that can be enjoyed all through the Adirondacks without paying a dime.
For more information click here.
Lake Placid (82.6 km’s / 51.3 mi)
The best known town in the Adirondack region, Placid is a pleasure to discover. It began as a small iron mining settlement and began its ascent to the pantheon of resort towns though the opening of the Lake Placid Club in 1895 (now sadly demolished). The town was further visited by those using Saranac Lake for tuberculosis treatment and it began to grow in importance. The lake placid club stayed open in the winter of 1905 and began holding winter sport on its grounds. This would be the start of the towns long sporting tradition. The town gradually expanded on its winter infrastructure before hosting its first Olympic games in 1932 and 1980. It is one of the few cities to host two games. The “Miracle on Ice” hockey game between the United States and Russia took place at the rink in town and the town has one of the oldest golf courses in the US.
At the entrance of the town you will find the old lake placid area, now the Olympic museum. Looking out of the distance you can see the old Olympic ski jumps. They can still be visited if you wish.
In town you can find a busy main street with many shops, restaurants, bars and the Lake Placid brewery. The brewery is one of the better knows brands in upstate New York. Their staple is a brown ale called UBU, for more information on great upstate brews read my post here. On the lake you can do many traditional summer activities, such as paddling or swimming.
For more in depth information on the city of Lake Placid itself, click here.
Beyond Lake Placid
If you want to extend your trip beyond the town of Placid, here are some easy places to stop off at on your way to Lake George at the southern end of the Park. Enjoy the drive though the park, the natural landscape is gorgeous and foliage is stunning during the fall months.
Saranac Lake (15 km’s / 9.3 mi’s)
Perhaps the prettiest town in the Adirondacks, Saranac Lake represents the idyllic Adirondack life aspired to by so many. Once upon a time people flocked here remedy for tuberculosis, building cottages on the lake in an often futile attempt to rid themselves of the disease. This in reflected in much of the architecture of the town, where most buildings have porches to enjoy the cool mountain air.
The town was founded in 1827 on Iroquois land that, at that time, was considered wilderness. At first it was but home to a sawmill but then hosted one of the first Adirondack hotels, thus attracting some socialites. The town would skyrocket to fame with the arrival Dr.Edward Livingston Trudeau. Finding that the cold dry mountain air helped his Tuberculosis he took inspiration from Europe and established a sanitarium here in 1882. It was the first of its kind in the united states. Although his treatment was rudimentary; fresh air, exercise and a good diet, it was considered a pioneering idea. Dr. Trudeau even treated the author Robert Louis Stevenson, the author or treasure island, in Saranac. Since treatment in this fashion could take several months, those who could afford it would build beautiful tuberculosis cottages. Many of the northwestern elite come here with their money and made it a tuberculosis socialite hub of sorts!
Famous visitors to Saranac Lake include Calvin Coolidge, Paul Newman, Al Jolston and Albert Einstein. It is in Saranac that Einstein heard about the bomb dropping above Hiroshima.
Dr. Trudeau’s treatment was the only one available before antibiotics and the fortunes of the city were devastated by the onset of modern medicine. Eventually the hospitals were shuttered and the city fell into decline. The cute town stayed afloat due to the proliferation of traditional tourism, which still remains popular in the Adirondack park.
Things to see in Saranac include the old Saranac Sanatorium, closed since 1954, it is finally being converted to other uses. In the same vein you can visit many pretty “cure cottages”, including the Stevenson residence. Furthermore you can follow this up by visiting the Saranac Laboratory. The facility, built in 1894, was the first to study tuberculosis in the United States and is now a museum dedicated to the history of TB in Saranac. Other activities include visiting the shops on the main street, enjoying lakefront activities and visiting the Saranac Carousel. Soak up the charm of this American jewel. If visiting in winter, the village hosts a small winter festival with an ice palace.
For those looking for accommodation, the Historic Hotel Saranac downtown is a good option and for those camping the Saranac island offers beautiful scenery.
For more information click here.
Tupper Lake (47.2 km’s / 29.3mi)
Tupper Lake is a former industrial town that serves as a hub for the surrounding communities. It has a diner serving a generous breakfast, something as I happy about last time I stopped here as I was starving. The town was once the biggest producer of lumber in New York State and although the town burned down in 1899, some parts of its industrial past still remain.
The main street has a few businesses and much of your camping supplies can be purchased here. There is also a neat old wooden synagogue near the lake.
The main attraction is the Wild Center. Formally known as the Natural History Museum of the Adirondacks, its goal is centered on the public education of the natural sciences. Its most interesting attraction is no doubt the Wild Walk, an elevated walkway that takes you above the treetops for an unforgettable view of the surrounding nature. The indoor sections is housed in a large log cabin and contains exhibitions that would be more in line with what you would find at a traditional natural history museum, such as a display of the different biomes.
Long Lake (82.7 km’s / 51.4 mi)
This tiny picturesque town in the heart of the Adirondack makes for a nice stopping point. The town is built along the narrow body of water of the same name and until the arrival of the railroad was one of the more isolated settlements in the Adirondacks Park. At the time of its founding in the 1830’s the town was solely serviced by the waterways as no roads and remained that way for a long time.
Today the town is known for its clear waters and pristine beach. From the waterfront you can ride in a Seaplane though a company called Helms Aero Service. This is a great area for outdoor activities like swimming, boating and hiking. Just south of the city you have the Adirondack Experience also refereed to as the Museum on Blue Mountain Lake. This museum details the regions cultural and natural heritage.
The largest building is the historic Adirondack hotel built in 1900. In its basement you can find a rustic taproom. Stop by for a drink, stay for a day!
Lake George (189.9 km’s / 118 mi)
Located at the southern tip of the Adirondack park, this tourist town boasts some of the largest attractions in the park. It is where most visitors to the park get their first peak at the Adirondack mountains. It can be used as an alternative starting point to Plattsburg but is noticeably more crowded. There is usually live music on the lake in the evenings along with loads of accommodation to choose from including many motels, hotel and campgrounds.
For more information you can take a look at my Lake George post here.
Conclusion
The Adirondack Park is one of the must-see destinations for anyone living on the east coast. Get out of the city, camp and lie under the pristine Adirondack stars. The lack of development makes for a clear sky and stars that shine so bright you wont ever look at the city sky the same way again.
