From Deep River to Oiseau Rock – Charting Champlain’s Course on the Upper Ottawa River
On a bright summer day during the summer of 2020, we drove up from Ottawa to the Ontario town of Deep River to meet up with friends of ours. They were staying at a their family members and we had no clue what to expect. In the end this day ended up being one of the best of the summer – a pleasant surprise as this region of Ontario is not known for its tourist attraction. From a boat ride down the river, to a hike up a sacred mountain, swimming and tubing we did it all! Our hosts were gracious and gave us a great run of the place.
Table of Contents
Geography and a Brief History
Heading north on highway 17, you would be excused if you did not think much of the Ottawa River. Hidden by a thick forest cover the majestic stream is hidden from view. This powerful body of water extends from the north-west near Temiscaming, fed from the Laurentides mountain range, it flows south-east towards Montreal, passing Ottawa before tying into the St. Lawrence at Lachine (today home to the fur trade museum), not far from the former. The river has been an important trade route / transportation artery ever since Algonquian (aboriginal Canadians native to this region) times.
The course of the river was first charted by Europeans when in 1615, Samuel de Champlain and Étienne Brûlé (assisted by Algonquin guides), traveled up the Ottawa River. From here they followed the water route west along the Mattawa and French Rivers to the Great Lakes. This system of lakes and rivers would make the backbone of the Canadian Canoe routes used for the fur trade commerce during the New France era. The people who worked this jobs were called les “Coureurs des Bois” (runners of the woods) and would navigate the treacherous rapid filled rivers do so for two centuries until a new industry displaced them – the thrilling world of pulp and paper! A new kind of man was needed for this task, the Raftman or better known as the Draveur in French Canada. These men cut down the large virgin forests of white pine up the river and floated the trunks down to Ottawa for processing at the Chaudiere/Albert Island industrial complex at Lebretton Flatts.
The river was damned starting in the 1950’s (over 50! dams!), as such the logs no longer flow downriver and American eels have disappeared almost entirely. On the other hand flooding no longer occurs as frequently and large amounts of clean hydro power are generated. Many of the most treacherous rapids are gone but the river still retains its murderous undercurrent and the occasional drowning still happens. The lumber and fur industry may be gone but it has been replaced by recreational boating, swimming as well as cottaging!
Deep River
With the highest concentration of Phd’s in Canada, one would wonder what they are doing all the way out here. Well, due to proximity of the Chalk River nuclear laboratory nearby, they have clustered in this part of the Ottawa River Watershed.
One of the few non-river related activities in the town is to visit the Canadian Clock Museum, an exhibits on the wonderful world of Canadian clocks (Ok… maybe not wonderful world, we will keep it at the world of Canadian Clocks).
Deep River actually has a wonderful waterfront, which makes sense since much of the towns action revolves around the river. Since many people here have high incomes they can afford water toys and I don’t blame them!
From Deep River you can take the boat along the river to “Secret Beaches” that only the locals hang around.
Chalk River
From the boat we cruised past the town Chalk River. From the water one can get an amazing view of Chalk River Laboratories. The nuclear research facility is part of Canada’s Second World War heritage when the Montreal research laboratory was established to handle Canada’s Nuclear reserch. At the time Canada had been supplying the US with high grade Uranium for the Atom bomb and was considered to be advanced in this field. In 1944 the Montreal Laboratory was closed the the Chalk River Facility opened by the National Research Council (NRC). Post-war the laboratory facility has been used for peaceful nuclear research and is now unfortunately being decommissioned and process that will likely take several years.
This is an important research facility that has greatly contributed to the scientific heritage of the nation, so admire what you can before its gone!
Oiseau Rock
Cruising past the rocky shoreline, we approached the goal of our Journey Oiseau Rock.
This massive behemoth of a boulder is pretty intimidating when you get close to it on the tube. At its base is a historic marker, something I would have had no clue where to look for if it wasent for the fact that we were with locals.
The rock itself rises 150meter above the river and is the most iconic geological formation on this section of the Ottawa river.
Landing at a nearby beach we all readied for our latest hike!
The Oiseau Rock Trail is a mere 5 km (10 km round trip but much less if you are hiking up from the beach) but has some slippery uphill sections, taking you through the forest Migizi Kiishkaabikaan (Algonquin) forest.
After the mad scramble to the top of the cliff face, you will be afforded an amazing view of the Ottawa River (in all its glory!).
At the top of the mountain is a dark colored lake that you can swim in.
This was a sacred summer gathering spot for the Algonquin called Kabeshinan. The Algonquin people knew the river well, as they would travel its route every year.
Don’t miss the swinging rope that you can dive into the lake from!
Conclusion
I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of my day. As mentioned previously when driving to Feep River, not much of the river’s true majesty can be seen but if one can get one the water they can see how truly memorizing this part of the world, away fron the city, can be.
