Essaouira – Atlantic Surf, Argan Goats and the Mogador Purple
One of my personal favorites, Essaouira is a land apart from its mother country. Relaxed and unassuming, the ancient seaport is a marvel to behold. A collection of whitewashed building with blue reliefs await the weary traveler. No, this is not the souks and markets of Marrakesh, Essaouira is a calm and unassuming place where the rhythms of daily life can be observed at your own pace. Welcome to one of the Atlantic coastline’s most underrated attractions.
Table of Contents
Geography
Lounging comfortably by the sea on a calm day, one could easily forget how powerful the incoming waves are during a storm. The city, sheltered by a ring of rock and walls is well protected from their torturous rhythmic torments. The old town consists of a ring of sturdy walls and a grid street pattern oriented North/South/East/West.
The western gate leads to the port of the city, located on a branch of land protecting the Bay of Essaouira, a massive sandbar with beautiful beaches. This open stretch of water is protected by les Iles Purpuraires, with Mogador island being the most important of these.
A Brief History
Occupied since Antiquity, Mogador has long been covered for its strategic harbour and a distinct dye called Mogador Purple, the imperial Purple. Today the antiquities of this ancient city can be observed in the Museum of History and Civilizations in Rabat.
Antiquity and Arab Conquest
Considered to be one of the best ports on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, the Carthaginians could not help but take interest. Under Hanno the Navigator in the 5th century BC, Carthage sent a fleet down to this anchorage and established the port city of Arambys.
The famed purple dye factory was established here during the 1st century BC by King Juba II of the Berber Empire. This facility would produce Tyrian purple from murex and purpura shells caught in the tidal rocks. The dyes were then shipped to Rome to color the toga’s of Roman Senators.
The city declined and fell into obscurity after the Arab conquest of North Africa. Yet is is the burial of a Muslim saint Sidi Mogdoul here that would lead to its second name, Mogador.
Portuguese Era and the Moroccan Kingdom
The city saw a revival in 1506, when the Portuguese established themselves in Mogador by building a powerful stone castle. Unfortunately for them, their grip on the region would not last and in 1510, only four years latter they were forcibly removed by the local Berbers. These hardy people would resist the designs and machinations of great powers such as Spain, England, the Netherlands and France.
The French in particular had a strong interest in the region. After several raids along the coast including one here in 1629 the Moroccans were forced into trade concessions.
The city you see today was built in the 18th century by the Moroccan Kingdom who wished to build a harbor close to Marrakesh. The fortress was designed by the French, hence its modern and European look. The fort was called Souira” (“the small fortress”), but eventually the name became “Es-Saouira” (“the beautifully designed”) – a name the city has now taken.
Under the tutelage of Mohammed III, the city would develop rapidly. Mohamed had closed the port of Agadir to the south and had forcibly redirected its trade north to Essaouira. During this period it was considered to be Morocco’s principal port. The port linked sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains to Marrakesh, offering the goods of the caravan trade and exporting them out.
French Protectorate and Return to Morocco
During the First Franco-Moroccan War the Bombardment of Mogador, an important battle of the of the war, took place. The Kingdom of Morocco was severely weakened from the fighting and in 1912 it became part of the French Protectorate of Morocco, retaining its role an an important naval base during the First World War. The protectorate ended in 1956 but the French influence still reigns strong as witnessed by the general use of french.
The city had a revival during the 1960’s when it became an important stopping point on the hippy trail. Today the city remains an important cultural center and retains much of its French tourism.
Heading Into Essaouira
Argan, Goats and A Viewpoint
On the road into Essaouira, approaching from the east from Marrakesh, one will surely have the chance to observe a strange phenomenon… a heard of goats in trees seemingly floating! Nope, I am not messing with you… goats!
Goats are fantastic climbers and if you look closely you will find a ramp letting the beats up on the trees to feed on the Argan fruit. This a quick marketing tick for the farmers who then have tourists stop off and take pictures. You can give them a few coins if you want and he may if there are any baby goats around they may let you hold them. Please be nice to the animals, while there I saw some bad behaviour by a tourist that made the farmer come back for his poor animal.
Your final stop on the road into town should be the lookout called Point de Vue Azlef on roadway R207. It will give you a panorama of the city, along with the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean.
The Dunes/Bay of Essaouira
The R207 will wind down towards the ocean not far from where the river Loukos spills into the Bay of Essaouira. To the north is the city itself, along with a beachfront cornice full of modern shops and hotels. To the south, crossing the river, you will find the Borj El Baroud, a ruined watchtower and the Dar Sultan Palace, a ruined palace. These are pretty cool as they are right on the beach, slowly sinking away into the sand. On the north side of the river you will find the Phare de Sidi Magdoul, an imposing lighthouse.
Exploring Essaouira
If you are driving into the city, you will find large parking lots near the post of Essaouira. If full you will find parking near the south gate. From here it is easy to walk into the old town. The city and its narrow alley of streets will have a flavor quite distinct from all others in the country. I would recommend a few days to soak in the unique atmosphere and have a break from the hustle and bustle that defines the rest of the county.
The best part about the city is that it is east to navigate and very friendly. If lost make your way to one of the main thoroughfares and follow it back towards a familiar landmark.
Port of Essaouira
The Harbour of Essaouira with its iconic citadel, stands apart from the rest of the city, strategically resting in the northern point of the Bay of Essaouira. Built in a L-shape it protects the pincer shaped harbour. The city itself can be accessed by the El Marsa gate, leading to the south-western quadrant of the city with its open main square where the city walls used to be. In the harbour, the overwhelming smell of fish will hit you immediately. Like nearby Safi, the city is still very much a working class port with blue painted fishing craft lining the docks.
The harbour was built by the famed English renegade Ahmed el Inglizi (“Ahmed the English’) and the citadel built to protect it was constructed by the Genoese.
If you walk up the bastion you can still see much of the original European details up close. Do be careful not to wake the beggars sleeping in the alcoves.
Outside the port area, through the Bab El Marsa heading into the city (Bab being a word for gate), you will find fisherman stands what will serve you fresh, and very delicious seafood. I would recommend eating hear, with a caveat. be forewarned that the vendors are sharks and will caveat you greatly for the fresh seafood. Don’t let them intimidate you, these are professionals. Haggle the price down to something resembling a Moroccan price, or whatever you think is fair!
Old Town of Essaouira
The city is laid out in rational lines with a north-south, east-west axis set up connecting the main boulevards to the three main city gates, while the western edge faces the sea. These boulevards are cris-crossed with smaller alleys, known for their charm. While little public spaces exist within the old town the area around the city walls now serves as a city park.
City Fortification
On the most landward side of the city, to the east, you will find the southern gate the the city. Flanked by a large outcropping in the wall it is an iconic destination.
Near the gate you will find a series of decorative stones, I have yet to decipher what they are since I cannot read Arabic but they do look cool!
Along this stretch of the wall there is a plaque dedicated to legendary filmmaker Orson Welles. His 1952 film Othello was filmed in the city’s Medina (as well as other Moroccan cities such as El Jadida). Not far from here, just south of the town walls, you can find l’Hotel des Iles where the famed director stayed during filming. It is said that he met Winston Churchill during his stay here.
On the seaward side you will find a massive circular bastion at the westernmost point. This is the most impressive stretch of walls and many merchants can be seen here peddling their goods. After following a long ramp up you will be in the bastion.
This is a great area to observe the powerful Atlantic waves crash into the city walls.
From here you should pleasantly stroll along the water and absorb the stunning views of the Citadel and the Isles Purpulaire in the distance.
I’ve included a few extra pictures for if you wanted to see more of the fortifications.
The Old Town, Jewish District and the Medina
From the citadel, one will notice that there is a small piece of wall missing and in its place a citadel appears. This popular city square near the Bab El Mechouar gate was a city improvement project created during the French Protectorate to beautify the space and allow for gatherings. The civic space is home to the world famous Gnaoua World Music Festival, a free event that draws 500 000 over four days. You will typically hear music being played here.
This is also an area that will allow for great pictures of the whitewashed city and its walls along the backdrop of the Atlantic.
From the square you will be able to sit in a restaurant terrace to enjoy the view of the citadel with the backdrop of the purpulaire islands.
Among the countries of North Africa, Morocco is considered to have the best natural potential for producing quality wines,
Honestly, the charm of the city lies in its gigantic maze of narrow alleys, many of them completly covered or passing under entire buildings. Here you will find restaurants, fine crafts (including some amazing wood workers) and many historic structures. Make sure to visit the Jewish quarter, one of the most important parts of the old town and a memory of how important the Jewish culture once was to Morroco. Furthermore, keep a look out for doors with anchors on them, these were likely once the home of sailors.
At the center of the city the four cardinal roads all meet up and turn into a large alcoves bazaar, topped by a minaret. It is not far from here that you will find the fish market.
In many ways this area is reminiscent of the city’s heyday when it was a hub for trade with inland Africa, specifically that of silver, spice and craft goods produced in the city. You can still find many high quality products produced around the city.
Make sure to visit the historic fish marker, although a little run down (it is being renovated), it will surely be worth your rime to see a more traditional part of the city and its culture.
Finally, make sure to check out one of the spice or dye vendors. Among the many colors found in the shops you will notice murex, made of the ocean shells, the pourpe and the Bleu Mogador a shade of blue that suits Essaouira well.
Passing though the south end of the city, in the area behind the Mosque Ben Youssef you will come across the an ancient maze of alleyways leading to the Complexe Commercial Bin Al Aswar.
This shopping complex is used to house silverworks, one of the best in the country. The silver trade is historically important to the city.
Conclusion
Essaouira may no longer one of Morocco’s most important centers, like Marzagan it has long been eclipsed by the larger centers such as Rabat, Marrakesh, Casablanca and Tangier yet it is its diminutive size that has allowed it to remain just as relevant. Despite its small population Essaouira boasts both a strong tourism and fishing economy, with an important port and an old town much larger than most cities it size. Not only are the beaches also pristine but it also boasts a relaxed down tow earth atmosphere that just doesn’t exist anywhere else in the country, it is no surprise that this well kept secret is so popular with French tourists.
Here are a few more pictures of the city for the road.
