Eger – The Town the Ottomans’ Couldn’t Conquer
Few would have defied the imperial Ottomans army prior to the famed siege of Vienna, both as openly and as brazenly, as the Hungarian city of Eger. For the past centuries, the Turks had marched north through the Balkans towards Central Europe as if they were an unstoppable juggernaut, imposible to defeat or dislodge. With every successive campaign, their power grew, while much of Southern Europe bickered and fell kingdom by kingdom. By the 16th century Hungary itself was in a state of collapse, and one by one the strongholds outside of Upper Hungary (Slovakia) capitulated. Yet Eger did not. It lived in abject defiance of an enemy far greater then it.
Welcome to Eger! A city of glorious red wine that is reminiscent of the blood shed for Hungarian freedom!
Table of Contents
Geography and Transportation
Located in the north east portion of Hungary, Eger is tucked within one of the few areas in today’s Hungary that is hilly and forested. As I am sure you are aware, this is a land of agricultural plains, with few natural hillscapes. The center of the town is bisected by a small stream.
Travellers without a car can take either the train or the bus into the city but it is a rather slow process for how close the city is to Budapest (134km). What would take less then an hour and a half by car takes two and a half hours by public transit, and in my case a few extra hours due to my bus getting stuck in traffic. Luckily both the train station and the bus are within walking distance of the center. On a random note, the communist era bus station is ugly and built of concrete in a circular fashion making it seem like some dystopian UFO.
A Brief History
Despite its diminutive size, Eger has been an integral part of Hungary’s long and complex history.
Magyar Rule and the Mongol Invasions
Established 10th century by St. Stephen, the first Christian King of the Magyars, Eger was conceived with a basilica on Castle hill just like the first capital of Hungary, Eztergom. THe town developed rapidly during the medieval ages and during the 11th and 12th centuries, Walloon settlers wre invited to the city, where the established a viticulture.
The mongol invasion of 1241 devastated Hungary and few cities were spared, including Eger. Despite its sack, the city rebounded and permission to establish a stone fortress was granted by Béla IV. Forests were chopped down and in their place, vineyards appeared.
The siege of Eger and Later Ottoman Rule
The Battle of Mohács in 1526 was the death blow to the Kingdom of Hungary and what was left was in disarray. To counter the uncertainty, the walls were reinforced and in the autumn of 1552, the Ottomans came. To greet them was Captain István Dobó, defender of northern Hungary and his 2000 men. This daring confrontation was been romanticized by Magyar poets and writers, with their estimates of the Ottoman army ranging at nearly 200 000 men. Modern estimates bring that number down to nearly 40 000 but the point is that Dodo was severely outgunned and there was no sign of help on the horizon. The castle was bombarded so badly that it had to be essentially reconstructed.
In 1596, the foreign mercenaries garrisoning the town handed it over to the Turks without a fight, instigating an occupation that would last 91 year. The Turks embarked a a building spree converting many churches to mosques but also building boathouses.
The Ottoman retreat from Vienna signaled a change of fortune for the Turks and the Austrian Habsburgs, would steadily expel the Turks from Hungary. Charles of Lorraine took the city in 1687, after the castle of Buda had been retaken in 1686.
Habsburg rule
Little was left of the town upon recapture, and much of the native Hungarian population had gone. The Habsbugs returned the town to the Catholic bishops which caused the Protestant community to leave. Despite this the town once again began to grow.
During the 18th century, the city supported the Transylvanian Hungarian prince Francis II Rákóczi in his rebellion against the crown. The rest of the century was good to the city with new baroque architecture constructed and steady immigration to grow the towns population.
The 19th century began with a large fire that destroyed parts of the old town.
Revolutions of 1848 and Dual Monarchy
The 19th century saw the national enlightenment of many occupied people, one of which were the Hungarians. As part of this national revival,the archbishop of Eger Pyrker László János set up a gallery which he donated to the Hungarian National Museum which served as a base for the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts in Budapest.
The city supported the failed liberal Revolutions of 1848, yet despite the Hungarians losing in that conflict due to Russian intervention on behalf of the Austrian Crown, the Magyars had won some respect. This would lead to many changes both in Hungary at large and in the city. Serfdom was in retreat and by 1854 the bishops no longer ruled the city. On the national level the dual monarchy was established in 1867, establishing the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
World Wars and the Modern World
Unfortunately the city did not benefit from the industrial revolution the same way other cities had. The main railway line between Miskolc and Pest completely bypassed the town, something that still affcts the city’s transportation network to this day. Despite this, the 1899 publication of the novel “Eclipse of the Crescent Moon”, a novel on the heroic siege of the city, by Gárdonyi made Eger popular as a tourist attraction. Tourism being an industry that powers the baroque city center even today.
Hungary fell into depression after the First World War but benefited from a 1933 decision that made Eger one of the first towns to get the permission for opening a spa.
The Second World War spared the city physical damage, but unfortunately its Jews perished in the Holocaust.
The Soviets tried to turn the city into an industrial center and Eger’s former character of a cultural center began to fade. Fortunately much of the old town was spared and today the city is on the mend.
What to do in Eger
For a city of just over 50 000 people, there is a lot to do here, especially if you are a day tripper.
Relax and Bathe at a Thermal Spas
Of all the spas, I recommend the Turkish Bath of Eger. A Ottoman importation, this bath was conceived in the early 17th century. The building has seen many facelifts since that time, including a gold mosaic ceiling.
For those seeking something more modern, there are plenty of larger resort style thermal spas around the city that have flair and comforts that one would expect of such a place. There are plenty of good options so I will refrain from making any suggestions.
Indulge the Regions Rich Red Wine
Eger is famous for its wines, notably the “Egri Bikavér”, known in English as the Bull’s Blood of Eger. For liquor, I would try the “Egri Víz”, a brandy dating from the 18th century,
Take in the Architecture of the Basilica of St. John the Apostle and its Square
On the southern side of the old town, you will find one of the symbols of the city Basilica of St. John the Apostle, a 19th century building with a forty foot dome and a neoclassical colonade!
In, and around, the square you will find many fine buiding Astronomical Museum and Camera Obscura
Eger Archiepiscopal Palace
Be Awed by the Northern Most Minaret of the Ottoman Empire
One of the best known attractions in Eger, is one that seems to most out of place with its christian character. Sticking out among the church spires is the most northern minaret in the Ottoman Empire, dating from their occupation of the city.
Part of a christian complex today, it is open to the public. You can climb its narrow staircase for views of the city.
Enjoy Dobó István Square and Walk the Old Town Streets
The main square is dedicated to the famed local here Dobó István, with a statue of the hero at its center. The space is home to many pubs and restaurants and is known for its baroque architecture, among these buildings is Church of Anthony of Padua and its twin spires. You will also find the modern addition of a Ferris wheel nearby.
While walking around keep an eye for the many statues that have been erected, showing the history of the city. Chief among them are the statue of the writer Gárdonyi Géza, the poet Sebestyén Tinódi and as well as this battle scene between Ottomans and Hungarians below (Located in Border-Castle Warriors’ Square).
The old boulevards have recently been renovated and look quite good! The core is pedestrian friendly and quite relaxing, albeit a bit quiet.
There are also plenty of baroque churches downtown but my favorite is the yellow colored St. Bernard’s Church.
Climb up to the Castle of Eger
Rising up from the old town is the famed Castle Hill. There are two main gates, but the primary one near the entrence of the old town is closed. You need to loop around the facility and access it through the back.
Before I continue, I want to air my primary grievance with the site, and Orban’s Hungary more generally. Like Budapest, much of the restoration work has been completed in a shoddy fashion that does not respect the standards and best practices of heritage restorations (you should be able to see some instances in the picture below). This could have been due to corruption or incompetence, but most likely the former. This said, I did enjoy my visit to the castle.
At the center of the complex stands the reconstructed gothic episcopal palace of the castle.
From the battlements you will also get a great view of the city.
The castle does have a great museum that charts our some of the archeological excavations, including that of a ruined gothic church, once the first cathedral of the city dating from the early 11th century. The museum also takes you underground, where a medieval monarch once built his tomb. You will also receive access to the Fair bastion and its three crosses.
Before you leave, be sure to check out Gregory’s Bastion.
Conclusion
Eger is not as easy to get to by bus or train as I had imagined, nor are the transit stops as frequent. Despite this the city is well worth a quick look around but will likely not occupy you for more then a day or two. There is a lot of history and character here if you wish to experience it.
