Dubrovnik – The Pearl of the Adriatic
When one thinks about the Adriatic coastline, one city springs to mind immediately… Dubrovnik the cultured capital city of the ancient Republic of Ragusa. Naaaaah just kidding! To the obnoxious tourist that has overrun the hotspot, it is now better known as “That place where Game of Thrones was filmed bro”, but more on that later. I approached the city via a bus from Kotor Montenegro, I had the chance to view the stunning coastline from my window, yet I yearned to stretch my legs. Although the roads are in good condition, the short 91km journey takes three hours by bus. This is in large part a consequence of the size of the roads leading to the city, they are but a single lane in each direction. The bus dropped me off just outside the city walls on a beautiful sunny day. Looking to capitalize on the weather my dad and I dropped of our bags at our old town apartment and set about exploring one of the best-preserved old towns’ in Europe.
Table of Contents
Geography
Dubrovnik is located in the southern portion of Dalmatia, a narrow stretch of coastal land considered to be the historic heartland of the Croatian people. This narrowness is due to the close proximity of the Bosnian border, and feels more cramped due to the rugged terrain. The hills rise up from the water on a steep incline leaving little room for activities other than seafaring. As you head south, the Croatian border continues to shrink towards the coast until it is almost nothing. At this point you are in Montenegro. To the north you have the land of Neum, a peculiarity that divides the city from the rest of Croatia. Neum is a tiny coastal strip belonging to the Bosnian state, once you pass it you will enter the undivided territory of Croatia. To the west is the Adriatic Sea along with a few of the Croatian islands. Across the sea lies the shores of Italy.
A Brief History
The maritime republic of Ragusa, with its capital of Ragusa is nowhere to be found on a map of Europe but much like neighbouring Kotor it was a titan of the Adriatic. That is, until Napoleon and his blatant disregard for history, ensured that it would never again be independent. Here is a brief look of one of the great cities of the medieval era.
Byzantine Empire and Venice
Ragusa was founded in the year 614 by refugees from Cavat (Ancient Epidaurum) who were chased out of their city during the Slavic incursions into the Roman Balkans. The town was, at first, a protectorate of the Byzantine Empire. During this time the city walls and a Christian basilica were completed. For some time afterwards, the city would fall into the hands of various local powers. This change of hands was in fact due to the city’s location at both maritime and land trade routes, hence one could say that it was a highly coveted location. The city grew rapidly under the stewardship of the Byzantine Empire and was briefly ruled by Duklja, a Serbian state.
Jealous of the city’s success, and viewing it as a direct rival, Venice took advantage of the chaos of the Fourth Crusade to take control of the city. It ruled from 1205-1358 and although Venice attempted to limit the economic development of the city, Ragusa benefited from Venice by copying its institutions. Venice lost control of many of its Dalmatian holdings to Kingdom of Hungary, since Hungary was not a naval power Ragusa was given as much independence as possible for a Vassal to have.
Independent Maritime Republic
Putting its institutions to test the nascent republic navigated a difficult position to grow and become a force to be reckoned with. With the defeat of Hungary at the hands of the Ottomans, the catholic city was surrounded by neighbours of different religions, namely Orthodox Christianity and Islam. The city bought land from the Serbian Empire, acquired land by war with a Bosnian King and payed tribute to the Ottoman Empire to preserve their holdings. The republic was one of the progressive states in Europe (slavery was abolished in 1418) and benefited greatly from maritime trade. The wealth from trade was used as patronage for the city’s greatest buildings, a reflection of the renaissance taking place in nearby Italy. To ensure competitiveness with Venice, Ragusa allied itself with Italian cities such as Ancona to limit the maritime powers of Venice in the Adriatic. Ragusa developed its own fleet of ships and created alternative trade routes to those owned by Venice. The language of the local Dalmatian elite was Latin until the 15th century when it was replaced by Croatian the language of the common people who migrated to the area during the Slavic incursions.
Although things were good, the city went into decline after a catastrophic earthquake in 1667.
Napoleon, Austria and the Modern Era
As we all know Napoleon is an asshole, so it should be no surprise that in 1806 the French decided that Ragusa was theirs. They invaded the neutral country by ruse asking for water and safe passage on their way to Kotor but taking the city when inside it. As a countermove Russian and Montenegrin troops moved on the city subjecting it to a brutal siege. Ragusa was first annexed first to Napoleonic Italy and then to Napoleon’s Illyrian Provinces. Ragusians eventually rose in rebellion against the French but were betrayed by Austria who desired the territory for themselves. The annexation was confirmed in 1815 at the Congress of Vienna.
The city lost importance during the Era of Austrian occupation – the main center of Croatian life moved to Zagreb and the city fell into decline. Following the First World War the city became part of Yugoslavia and during the Second it was part of a Fascist Croatian puppet state installed by Hitler before rejoining Socialist Yugoslavia. The communist authorities persecuted many of the citizens of the city, rounding up and shooting many without trial.
In 1991 Croatia declared its independence, war followed shortly after and the city was besieged by Serbian and Montenegrin Forces. The UNESCO old town was shelled and severely damaged but the opposing forces were turned back by the Croatian Army in 1992. Today Croatia and Dubrovnik are experiencing a tourism boom.
Fun Fact: The republic of Ragusa’s rich diplomatic network extended to the newly founded United States.
Exploring Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik has a large old town when compared to other Balkans cities. As such I would recommend booking a place directly in the town center and spending a few days to see it all. Every alley seems to offer a new restaurant and every hill gives you an incredible vantage point.
The Old Town and Fortifications
The old town is built on a rocky peninsula that juts into the Adriatic, on its land side, thick walls of stone protect the city from intruders. You will most likely enter the city though the Pile gate, a round bastion section of the city wall separated from the mainland by a moat, now dry. After you cross over a short bridge into the city you will be confronted by the Stradun, the main promenade of the city. It was rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake and features uniform buildings along its lengths.
As you enter the city you will find a sixteen-sided domed cistern called the Large Onofrio’s Fountain. The fountain dates back to 1440 and is astonishingly still operational. This fountain is the location of the Dubrovnik walking tour and is featured in the TV series Game of Thrones. To your left is the bell tower of the Franciscan Monastery, a worthy way-point if you are looking for some orientation while navigating the cramped side-streets.
Once you complete your journey down the Stratum you will enter a small plaza containing some of the best-known attractions in the city. You can find the Small Onofrio’s fountain not far from the church of St. Blaise. church is named after the patron saint of the city. Legend has it that in 971 he appeared to the Ragusans as an old man to warn them of an impending Venetian attack. On the third of February the church reliquaries are paraded through the streets during the feast of St. Blaise. In the corner of the public plaza, opposite to the church, you will find the arched alcoves of the Sponza Palace.
Past the church of St. Blaise, you will find the Cathedral of Dubrovnik and the Rectors Palace. The Rector’s Palace is a Gothic style building that was once home to the elected leader of the Republic of Ragusa and is now a museum displaying artifacts and information on the city’s past. The Assumption Cathedral is another Game of Thrones site but has further connections to St. Blaise as it contains his Skull and Leg. The building was partially destroyed during the massive 17th century earthquake and rebuilt by Italian masters.
If you hang a left from the cathedral you will be in the old Port of Dubrovnik. The entrance to this natural harbour is guarded by two large bastions (Kula Luda and Fort St. Ivana) connected to the sea wall as well as the city wall. From the port you can commission a boat to take you around the city or take the ferry to nearby Lokrum island but more on that later. The port is an excellent place to grab a drink during the day. You should take a seat at a terrace and have a glass of excellent locally sourced Dalmatian white wine (I had a few glasses – it was a good day). Sites that can easily be accessed from here include a Dominican Cloister and the seaside esplanade.
The rest of the old town is just as interesting as the port and the architecture is more varied. You will easily lose yourself in the enchanting narrow streets, although the steep hills are a killer on the legs.
Speaking of varied architecture the city is home to the oldest Shepherdic synagogue still in operation and the second oldest synagogue in Europe (after Prague’s). The building was established in 1352 for the Sephardi community. These Jews are of Spanish and Portuguese ancestry and, at the time of their coming, were escaping persecution in the Iberian peninsula. Another important religious building is the Saint Ignatius church, its facade is baroque but from the side it almost looks like the main church of Tortosa. The best viewpoint to view this church is from the intimate Gundulic Square, just west of the cathedral.
The city fortifications are considered to be some of the most complete and impressive set of medieval walls left intact in the European continent. The thick walls are connected to a series of bastions and towers that surround the town, including a seawall defending the harbor. The most impressive of them is the massive round 14th century Minčeta Tower at the north end of the fortifications. A famous viewpoint of the city is just outside the city walls is Lovrijenac a 16th century fortification that was popularized by Game of Thrones.
If you only had time to do one thing in Dubrovnik, it should be to access the walls and walk their perimeter. The panoramic views are simply stunning and will make you long for this seaside paradise upon your return home. It is no wonder to me that this maritime Republic could flourish, these walls kept it safe well beyond what most cities were accustomed to. The moat that used to encircle the walls is now a traffic sink, with roads built in to the bottom of them, a creative use for the space.
Before you leave the old town, you can grab a drink on the sea side of the city walls and even jump in the water from the rocks!
Napoleonic Fort and the Hills
Overlooking Dubrovnik on mount Srđ is a decaying Napoleonic era fortification called Fort Imperial. You can access the fort from thee different points, an overpriced cable-car or a serpentine path directly east of the old town and a path with lookout points located further south. Although it is further out I would recommend taking the southern path up, as I did and taking the serpentine path back down. The southern path will give you a frontal view of the old town port along with Lokrum island that is unmatched by the overhead view. Furthermore, you will come across a spatter of ruined houses, a small village destroyed during the war.
At the top of the Srđ, you will find Fort Imperial along with a viewpoint. Built by the French in 1806, the fort is now a small museum that details an important event in the war for Croatian independence. In 1991 the siege of Dubrovnik was initiated by the JNA (Yugoslav Army – at this time maned by Serbian and Montenegrin Soldiers). They hoped to separate southern Croatia from the rest of the country and they used the elevated heights over the city to reign down shells on the city. Severely outnumbered the Croatian defenders held on until the siege was ended in 1992. Of the lands east of the city only Fort Imperial held out, surrounded by the enemy it resisted until it was relieved.
The lookout is pretty, like any lookout really. You can find a large flagpole displaying the national emblem and a cross, rebuilt after the war. When you are done go back down via the serpentine path. The view is breathtaking and there are several small pieces of art displayed along the way.
Lokrum Island and the Coast
From the port of Dubrovnik, you have the option of taking a ferry to the Island of Lokrum, doing a boat tour of the coastline, or renting small craft like kayaks. The island is not far from the mainland and has played an important part in the history of Dubrovnik.
The name Lokrum derives from the Latin word Acrumen, meaning sour fruit.
Believed to be cursed, the island was first settled by Benedictine Monks in 1023. These monks built an abbey and grew exotic fruit on its grounds, hence the name of the island was derived from the fruit they grew. Centuries later, in 1808, the monks were forced off the island by an powerful individual and it is believed that they cursed the island as they left, this curse will be revisited shortly. In 1192 Richard the Lionheart, king of England was shipwrecked on the island returning from the Third Crusade. He was rescued and wanted to build a chapel on the island as a sign of his gratitude but was convinced by the locals to build it in on the mainland instead. During the invasion of Croatia by Napoleon, the Fort Royal castle was constructed. It is believed that the powerful individual that forced the monks off the island was a French general.
“Whosoever claims Lokrum for his own personal pleasure shall be damned!”
The Curse of Lokrum
According to legend, the curse soon took effect with the three Dalmatian aristocrats that followed the generals orders to expell the monks. All three meeting a gruesome ends. Captain Tomaševic, a wealthy man inherited the island after the fall of the Republic. The cursed once again worked its dark magic and he was soon bankrupt, having to sell it to Archduke Maximilian I, brother of the Austrian Emperor Francis Joseph I and soon to be the short lived king of Mexico. As head of the Austrian navy, he had learned of the island when one of his ships exploded and sank sear the island. He renovated the islands buildings, built a palace, created botanical gardens and created a series of pathways. Little did he know that the curse once again reared its ugly head. Only a few years after becoming ruler of Mexico he was shot and killed.
Throughout the 19th century the island was host to many members of the Austrian nobility as well as a vast trove of other minor landowners. Many of them suffered similar fates to their previous counterparts including many members of the Royal family themselves, since they continued to hold the island. Some even try to suggest that Franz Ferdinand was a victim to this curse as well as the Habsburg family losing their crown. After the First World War, Croatia was incorporated into the state of Yugoslavia, who purchased the land from the Austrian nobles and installed a botanical garden.
Today the island is a haven, offering respite from the busy seaside town and in the summer, the tree will give you a much needed escape from blistering Croatian sun. Speaking of trees, you can find pine, cypress and olive trees and even a variety of tropical vegetation. If you are looking for things to do you can visit the 19th century Fort Royal, enjoy a view of the Old Town, explore the 12th century Benedictine complex, and go swimming in the inland “Dead Sea”. The island has restaurants, bars and public restrooms/change rooms.
Lastly both the island of Lokran as well as the shoreline on the mainland, south of the city, have some amazing caves. The best known of them is Betina and can only be accessed from the sea.
Nightlife
Unfortunately, the old town has been overrun with run of the mill Irish pubs filled with tourists. If you are looking for a more clubbier scene, leave the pile gate and go out into the new town.
Day Trips
Cavat
This pretty seaside town, located just to south, is a perfect getaway from the busier Dubrovnik.
Kotor
The Montenegrin Rival to Dubrovnik is worth a visit in its own right. Visit the St. Triton Church or enjoy the fortifications built upon a deep natural fjord. For more information on the stunning medieval town click here.
Ston
This small city located just north of Dubrovnik has impressive fortifications and a lot of history.
Croatian Islands
Dubrovnik has access to the most southern of the Croatian islands. Enjoy the beautiful Adriatic water and historic towns that have survived since the time of Venice.
Conclusion
Dubrovnik may be overrun by tourist but it is still well worth exploring. Its importance as a rich maritime center has granted it with remarkable architecture and nature blessed it with magnificent dark blue waters. If that does not make you want to visit, I don’t know what will.
