Constanta – Ovid’s Lament is my Dream Vacation
Exiled from his native Rome, to the very border of the Empire by Emperor Augustus, the Roman poet Ovid lamented his fate… Tomis, land of the Helenized Thracians held no charm to him. Dismayed by the lack of the Latin language in this provincial outpost, he found time to write his Magnum Opus, Metamorphoses. Later centuries would see the town thrive to become a city frequented by royalty. This Constanta would surely suit his taste, yes! One could say that it is a place that even Ovid would love!
Table of Contents
My Escape From Bucharest
Needing to escape the summer heat (and my shitty hostel) in Bucharest, I took a train to Dobruja, the Black Sea coastline of Romania. It was a wise decision and the sandy beachfront provided a much needed relief to my weary feet! The city, a favourite of the Romanian Royal family, is the population center of the Romanian Riviera and remains one of the leading shipping ports in Europe. Although the city underwent a long decline during the communist era the city is undergoing a cultural revival and is a favourite of the Romanian population.
Geography and Climate
Constanta occupies a sandy 13km bank of Romanian Riviera, the Black Sea coastline between the Bulgarian border to the south and the Danubian delta to the north, where the mighty river spills its contents into the large body of water. Historically the city has been known for its mineral springs and sea bathing.
North of the city is a long sand bank where you will find the resort town of Mamaia, the largest in Romania. The climate of Constanta (Humid-Subtropical) is conductive to tourism, this region has the warmest summers in the county and attracts a large contingent of beach-goers.
History
When Romania acquired the historical region of Dobruja in 1878 after the Romanian War of Independence (Russo-Turkish War), Constanta was nothing but a small fishing town on the Black Sea. The old Greek city was but rubble but it was not to last. By the the First World War it was once again a bustling multicultural port city frequented by the upper Crust of Romania. The original ethnic composition of the town included Romanians, Greeks, Turks, Tartars Bulgarian Jews and Romas.
Antiquity
The Greek city of Tomis was founded in the 7th century B.C. on the site that Constanta’s old town now occupies. The word Tomis can be roughly translated to “cut piece”. Legend has it that Jason and the Argonauts visited the area while fleeing the vengeful wrath of King Æetes of Colchis (Gerogia) shortly after escaping his kingdom with Golden Fleece. the object of their quest. The Roman poet Ovid, himself exiled to Constanta in 8 A.D, relates his experience in exile to the chapter story of the Argonaut in Tomis in his epic Triste (Laments). BOOK III, Elegy IX elaborates that Medea, daughter of Æetes, on the run from her father along with Jason would murder her younger brother Absyrtus near Tomis. She would cut him to pieces and scanter them overboard to slow down her persuaders, knowing very well that they would slow to pick them up. It would be the grief struck King Æetes himself who would found Tomis.
The Romans would conquer the region in 29BC from a confederation of Thracian tribes called Odryses. The city was at the outskirts of the Roman world and this is reflected in the lamentations of Ovid, exile from his native Rome. The poet would die here in 17A.D. Late in the Roman Era, with the Barbarians at the gates, the emperor Constantine would reinforce the city, building new walls. The narcissistic emperor would also rename the city after Constantia, his half-sister. The Roman Empire was split in half during this time and the city would be incorporated into the Byzantine Empire (Eastern Rome).
Medieval Era
The city was sacked by barbarians in the 8th century and fell into a long decline. The now reduced city, was now unimportant and would bonce between Wallachia, Bulgaria and finally to the Ottoman Empire in 1419. During the medieval ages the city was a popular trading port for the the maritime republic of Genoa who built a lighthouse here.
Romanian Revival
Early Period
In 1878 the town passed into Romanian hands from a crumbling Ottoman Empire. The city of Ovid was just a fishing village but railways would soon connect it to Bucharest allowing the exports of Romanian goods by sea, the young country’s only seaport. The first iteration of the famous casino, symbol of the city, was constructed here only two years late in 1880. By the the start of the 20th century the Royalty of Europe would flood its pristine beaches. To accommodate the tourists the casino was expanded in its Art Nouveau splendor and an international hotel added not far from the building. Life was good!
Late Independence and Modern Period
During the First World War the port of Constanta was occupied by the central powers, namely (German, Turkish and Bulgarian troops) and several buildings were damaged, including the Prefect’s Palace (now the military officer’s club). The city was liberated in 1918.
In between both wars the city became a commercial powerhouse and half of the country’s exports passed though the port. Before the Second World War the country fell to a fascist leader who joined up with the axis powers. This meant that the port of Constanta was heavily bombed by the allies during the Second World War. After the war the government was instituted as communist by the Soviet “liberators”. The commercial city suffered greatly from the communist governments insularity and lack of investment.
City Layout and Things to See
The town center of Constanta is built on an elevated rocky peninsula spilling into the sea. The industrial port of Constata is located to the south of this area and the modern marina to the north. To reach the marina a series of concrete steps must be taken as the area is substantially lower than the rest of the city. Finally to the northeast is a long stretch of beach that leads to the Mamaia sandbar.
Old Town
Ovid Square and Suroundings
Years of Communist government did a number to a city once occupied by the rich and powerful of Europe. As such the story of Constanta can be told through the intermediary of its crumbling buildings, showcased throughout the Old Town. The area is built up around Ovid Square and is surrounded on all sides by the Black Sea. In Ovid Square you will find many of the most prominent structures in the city, including the Carol I mosque, the Museum of Archiology and a sting of fine neoclassical buildings. At the center of the square is a statue of the poet Ovid. The square was designed by an Italian architect in 1877.
Your first stop in Constanta should be to explore the museum. Shortly after Romanian independence construction work began on the expanding town and its railways uncovering traces of the Greco-Roman city below. Workers were credited with their finds and the artifacts were stored in several locations. The building you see today was completed in 1911 after the loss of artifacts in a tragic fire prompted a change in policy. I was pleasantly surprised with the quantity, and the quality of the displays. To the side of the museum, you will find an outdoor garden with many stone artifacts including column bases and stone tombs. Behind the museum you will be privy to a view of the modern container port and its soaring cranes. The hill that the old town is base on slopes down at this area to reveal traces of the old Tomis, including masonry walls. A decaying concrete building off the the west side houses a large Roman Mosaic.
Speaking of decaying, beside the concrete building is the Casa du Lei, or House of the Lions. Windows are borded up and it lies in complete abandoment, dispite this its achitectural plendor shines though. Its four frontal columns sport beautiful lion statues. The building, designed by Daniel Renard (future architect of the Casino), was commissioned by a wealthy Armenian businessman at the end of the 19th century and was once the home of Lazarus Munteanu, President of the Court of Constanta and a passionate art collector the building was nationalized in 1953.
Back at the square, I recommend a visit to the King Carol Mosque, a gift by the Romanian king to the Tartar and Turkic minority of Constanta. Completed in 1910, it is memorable for many reasons. It one one of the few mosques built in Byzantine-Wallachian styles and one of the places in Romania that you will hear the call to prayer. The 50m minaret and dome are some of the most visible icons in the city.
In the main square you will find a flee market with very interesting items including second hand soviet era passports! You will also find patios where you can purchase cold beer (much needed in the Constanta heat) and Turkish coffee from a cafe. Walk down pedestrian Tomis street from the square for more food options and pretty buildings.
One of my favorite ruined buildings in the city is the Great Synagogue, a testament to the importance of Constanta’s Jewish population and the hurdles they faced to their identity during communist years. The Shepherdic synagogue was destroyed by Nichola Ceausescu in 1989 and the Great Synagogue serving the Ashkenazi community, is left standing, but just barely. The disused building has a collapsed roof and trees growing throughout. Built in Morrish style, its stained glass has been busted and the Jewish community is demanding its restoration still to this day but local authorities seem to drag their feet.
Other favorite is the Greek Church “Transfiguration” (Metamorphosis). Armenian, Turks, Tartar, Greeks, Romanians – Constanta truly was a multicultural center during the period of Romanian Monarchy.
Enjoy walking though the old town and seeing the rest of the delapitated stock of buildings and imagine yourself in a different era
One building that is not decapitated is the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul Romanian Orthodox Church. The distinctive byzantine styled building is known for its golden roof. The building was completed in 1885 and heavily damaged during the Second World War but looks as good as new today!
Waterfront Promenade and Casino
If you walk west from Ovid Square towards the waterfront you will find the Genoese Lighthouse along the Black Sea Promenade. This pedestrian boulevard is the most prolific public place in the city. The lighthouse was re-built in 1860 on the ruins of the previous one built by the genoese trading community that had been established here in the 13th century.
Walking along the boulevard you will come across a large stately building, now being restaurant, I would surmise that it was once a hotel. For those looking for the Palace Hotel, the original annex to the casino it can be found on nearby Remus Street and is a beauty in its own right.
After a few minutes you will come across the hulking carcass of the casino. As of 2020, the building is under renovation but at the time of my visit it was a ruin, a reminder of a time long past. Although dilapidated it may be one of my favorite buildings of all time. What you see is the third iteration of the Building. Completed in 1910, it hosted the Russian Royal family in 1914, just four years before the demise of the Romanov dynasty in the Russian Revolution. The building was unveiled by the future king Ferdinand I in honor of his adopted father King Carol I. Although maligned by architects and pretentious art critics, the building is perhaps the best and most elaborate use of the Art Nouveau style. Contemporary opinion of the building is one of admiration and how could you not. The building was host to massive opening of the season parties on the Romanian Riviera and hosted one of the finest bars, matching that of the most refined centers of Europe. The Great Hall itself was host to some fine musical and opera performances and in the evening even played the most recent cinematic pieces, projected on a screen. Through a clam shelled window light stream in and made its white floors and central staircase shine. I could picture a James bond character frequenting this type of establishment mingling with the upper class of Europe frequenting its billiards and cards tables and drank under its ornate ceilings.
Daniel Renard designed this building and oversaw its renovations after the building suffered a shell hit during the First World War, it also briefly served as a red cross station. During the Second World War, it was taken over by the German army who used it as a barrack and hospital. During the war it was again bombed and heavily damaged by allied fire. Before its nationalization and closing by the communist government the building was a sad sights surrounded by barbed wire and abandoned sentry posts. With no creative uses for the building, the government used political prisoners to clean it up and made it a palace of culture to create communist propaganda. The building was hardly maintained or used and has sat completely empty since 1990. Even in this state, walking around it that day I could picture it in its glory days buzzing with energy.
Northern Marina
At night I recommend a visit to the Marina, in the north port, for food and drinks. A long series of patios await you with the finest seafood in Romania. As a backdrop you will see the city landmarks rise above the water including the palace hotel and the King Carol mosque.
Other Attractions
Other attractions include a statue of the Capitoline Wolf, pertaining to the Dacio-Roman linage of Romania. These can be found in almost every Romanian city, making for a great Romania “I Spy” tour. The statue is located in a triangular plaza located in the south-west corner of the old town where Tomis and Trajan Street intersect.
Furthermore, two institutions worth mentioning are the Navy and the folk museum. The Naval Museum is a few minute walk west, down Trajan Street and the Folk Art Building just to the north. It is located in a remarkably well preserved building of Constanta’s heyday.
Gallery
Here are a few extra pictures of the old town for your enjoyment.
Outside the Old Town
My hostel was located in the suburban areas just outside the old town. This area is calm and filled with kids playing with no adult supervision. A sign on the road alerted me that this was a horse drawn carriage free zone (LOL!) and that I could expect some piece and quiet. That is why i was surprised when my German roommate thought the city was sketchy. Rundown Constanta may be a lot of thing, including corrupt but unsafe it is not. He must be living in a bubble as Constanta is safer than places I have lived in North America.
The suburbs are very walkable and the primary thing to is to go to the beach. I tried not to take too many pictures a there were a lot of topless bathers and I did not want to intrude on their privacy (classic europe!). The cheaches have concrete breakwater that offer nice walks out into the Black Sea. There are usually occupied by fisherman and by young kissing couples seeking refuge from gazing eyes. I walked on the beach to the old town every morning and it was nice on my feet!
Further into the norther end of the suburbs, near Lacul (Lake) Tabacariei you will find a area that contains many of the city’s family related activities including a natural science museums offering dolphins shows for a ridiculously low prince (at least by my standards, i understand that Romanian incomes are not particularly high).
Around the lake you have a wonderful park and the wooden Great Martyr Mina Church. This traditional building is a great introduction to the wood structures you usually find in remote northern Romania. If you continue north you will enter the Mamaia sandbar, resorts and beach. There is even a waterpark!
Day Trips
For those interested in easy day trips from Constanta, I have two places to recommend.
Mangalia
If you would like a similar experience to Constanta, with much smaller crowds, try for Mangalia. This small city, located south of Constanta is know for its large summer festival, a pretty 16th century mosque, a collection of greco-roman ruins, a ruined citadel, Scythian tombs and byzantine mosaics.
Danube Delta
For nature lovers, I recommend a trip to the Danube River Delta. This marshy wonderland is the second largest in Europe, after the Volga Delta and is the best preserved. You can find a wide assortment of wildlife and the area has been designated a UNESCO Natural Heritage Sight.
Conclusion
As my train departed from the main station in Constanta, I found myself thoroughly satisfied. My time on the Black Sea had been a great successe, my ravaged body having received some much needed rest and I felt refreshed for the first time in months. I spent my last night in Bucharest readying for a rapid sprint though Normandy and a booze soaked visit to North-West England. I was busy, yet somehow, my thoughts often wandered back to the blistering sunshine along the waterfront and the ruined Casino building, a hauntingly beautiful ghost, of a time long since past.
