Comino – The Perfect Escape From Valletta
The smallest of the three main Malteese islands, the tranquil Comino is a perfect escape from the chaos of Valletta, the capital city of the island nation. Virtually inhabited, it has seen many uses throughout the centuries. Today the azure water of the island offer refuge to hundreds of day tripper as they bask in the Mediterranean sun.
- For more information on the Maltese island of Gozo check out the link to my article here.
- For more information on the principle island of Malta click here.
Table of Contents
A Brief History
Farmed since Roman times, this desolate chuck of rock has seen the comings and going of many people throughout it’s long history. How the Roman’s managed to farm anything on the island is beyond me. After the fall of the empire the island served as a haven for pirates due to its limestone cliff bays and caves. During this time it also became the base of Jewish Kabbalist and prophet Abraham Abulafia. It remained a pirate for most of the medieval ages until the arrival of the Knights of Malta (Formerly the Knights of St. John or the Knights of Rhodes), a branch of the
Knights Hospitaller. The Knights used the island as their private hunting domain, usually catching wild boars and hares. The french used an underhanded ruse to acquire the Maltese islands from the knights (1778-1780) during this time the island was used as a quarantine center and prison. The island lost importance after the British took over operations with one exception, in 1889 the British battleship HMS sultan ran aground in the Strait of Comino.
Exploring Comino
It is best to experience Comino by two modes of transportation, by sea and by foot. I started my Comino journey at the Crystal lagoon, traveling by boat, exploring the surrounding shoreline. From there I walked around (500m) to the tower area and then to the Blue Lagoon only a few kilometers away, enjoying views of the stunning coastline. Acess to the island itself is provided from the Blue Lagoon and Comino Ferry service in the north-eastern quadrant of the island not far from Mellieha bay.
Crystal Lagoon & L-Għar ta’ Bla Saqaf
My first stop in Comino was the Crystal Lagoon, a radiant bay with great sightseeing opportunities.
It is easy to kill time here cliff diving from the highly perched rocks into the clear sea below. I was here in winter/spring so although it was warm out the water was still refreshing but still not particularly cold.
Make sure you visit the L-Għar ta’ Bla Saqaf, a maritime archway leading to a grotto where the ceiling having collapsed has left the top open to the sunlight, a stunning sight indeed!
P31 Wreck
A decommissioned German mine sweeper lays buried underneath the Azur waters between the crystal bay and St. Mary’s Tower. This ship was purchased by Malta and retrofitted as a patrol ship. At the end of its service life (2009) it was scuttled and is now a popular diving spot for tourists and locals alike. The wreckage is 18m under water and can be access via guided tour. I did not access this site as I have no experience diving.
St. Mary’s Tower
The most prominent and most important historical important landmark, this tower is Comino’s landmark. The structure was commissioned by Alfonso V, the King of Aragon and at that time the Sovereign of Malta. He was petitioned by the local people to build the structure as Malta was at the mercy of invading Turks or marauding corsairs. The later were pirates that would kidnap the local population to sell in the slave markets of Constantinople. The king raised levies for the project by taxing residents but he pocketed the money and left the project unfinished and the islanders disappointed. It was finally the Knights of Malta who would build the tower in 1618, to be part of a coastal chain of fortifications throughout the islands that can still be admired today. The knights would use this tower to exile misbehaving members, being forced to man the tower in solitude was considered a punishment. The French locked up suspected spies in the tower and in 1829 the British abandoned the structure only taking back control of the site during the World Wars. Today it is the property of the Maltese Military.
Abandoned Isolation Hospital
The old french quarantine center is located a stone’s throw from St. Mary’s tower. The building was originally constructed by the Knight of St. John around the time of St. Mary’s bastion as an army barrack. No museum exists on the site but it can be interesting to explore the ruins!
St. Mary’s Battery
Continuing east from the tower, kilometers away, you will find the well preserved ruins of a battery built in 1716 by the Knights of Malta. Don’t miss the 24lbs cannon!
Blue Lagoon
The main attraction in Comino is the Blue Lagoon, located north of the Chrystal lagoon and accessible via hiking trail. By this time I needed a drink and a Tiki fruit bar nearby provided cocktails in a pineapple! This beach here will be crowded but you can make your way around to the small off coast islands if you want some room! It is a stunning place. You will find quieter places to swim elsewhere but it is well worth the stop off!
Chapel of Our Lady’s Return from Egypt
A chapel has existed in Comino since the 12th century. Rebuilt and refurbished several times, this is the only one you will find on the island. It is dedicated to the Annunciation.
Conclusion
Comino may not be at the top of your Malta itinerary, but peel back the curtain and you will find a place of untamed beauty and adventure. It may be a time consuming to get to the ferry from Valletta but when you arrive on shore you will not regret it!
