Cobalt, The Silver Mining Capital of the World – Lake Temiskaming and the Tri-Town Area (Part 3)

July 11, 2023 by admin

Cobalt, a place of decaying legend, whose evocative rusting headframes and dilapidated concrete ruins bring about nostalgic reminiscing for a world long forgotten by the folks in southern Ontario. The old industrial boom town is emblematic of the north of yore, when boom towns sprouted overnight and altered the landscape in broad strokes for better or for worst. It may be hard to believe but this silver mining town started it all, one could legitimately argue that without the ample revenue generated by what can perhaps be argued as the most important silver mining camp in the wold, Northern Ontario would have not developed as it did. In fact one could argue that Cobalt single-handedly built the candida mining industry, revenues from its mines having directly financed most major operations beyond its borders, creating a vibrant mining economy in Canada. In many ways Cobalt exhibits a dark Gothic beauty that can be directly attributed to the the remnants of its rough and tumble past and the tough working class men who built it. Welcome to the birthplace of hard rock mining in Canada!

Today New Liskeard and Haileybury have merged form the Municipality of Temiskaming Shores, while Cobalt has not entered into this confederation. Yet historically these three cities were part of the powerful Tri-Town area, even being linked by a streetcar system. As such when one visits Cobalt, they should include the other two towns. In fact as picture perfect as Haileybury is, it was once just a bedroom community to busy Cobalt. Thus this post should be read in conjunction with my posts on:

New Liskeard, Pete’s Dam and Triangle Rock – Lake Temiskaming and the Tri-Town Area (Part 1)

Haileybury and the Devil’s Rock – Lake Temiskaming and the Tri-Town Area (Part 2)

PS: Don’t miss the Devil’s Rock in Haileybury, it is positively excellent.

When is the Best Time to Visit Colbalt
Why is There so Much Silver in Cobalt?
Cobalt’s Legacy
Mining Heritage and The Silver Trail
7) Nippising Hill Lookout
Conclusion

When is the Best Time to Visit Colbalt

You may have already guessed it but the best time to visit the town is fall, when the yellow hues of the tree cover give cover to the gothic creepiness of the area. For those looking to visit outside of this season, summer vibes hold your best bet. It is at that time of year that the nearby lakeside town of Haileybury really comes to life

Why is There so Much Silver in Cobalt?

Silver formed in cobalt 2.2 Billions years ago when molten magma craked the rockbed trying to rise to the surface. The magma filled the cracks leaving a silver rich residue in its path. These silver material was mixed with other minerals and forms the basis of the Cobalt silver veins. This process is similar to what happened at nearby Kirkland Lake, a gold mining Mecca north of the Temiscaming area. In many ways these cities are intertwined one being the silver capital of Canada and the other the gold.

Cobalt’s Legacy

As previously mentioned, Cobalt and Kirkland Lake were some of the greatest mining finds of their generation and the boom that followed allowed enough capital to be created to spur Canada’s then non-existing mining industry. It is quite possible that without the find at Cobalt (and later at Kirkland with the knowledge borne at Cobalt) that Northern Ontario would not have seen much development or government investment.

Unfortunately liability, unavailability of tourism funds and the rise of a more litigious society has shut down many of the existing sites. Conservation of what remains is of the most paramount importance!

Mining Heritage and The Silver Trail

In 2002 Colbalt was designated a National Historic Site of Canada, after a 2001 panel named Cobalt “Ontario’s Most Historic Town”. Yet despite this designation tourism still seem to be lacking. A wonderful exploration guide was put together along with site specific signage, yet much of that work seems to be rotting away. In this post I will attempt to cover what life was like in the Village of Cobalt during the boom years, as well as after its decline. This shall be done primary thought Cabalt’s famous mining sites as well as the town itself.

To help you on your journey, the local historical society has created what is called the The Silver Trail. This collection of mine sites has been altered significantly as miners have withdrawn their participation in the program over the years. For the purpose of this post I have created a list of some of the places we will visit further on in this post. It is derived from maps compiled by the official silver trail, both which can be found below. I will try to keep in line with the original numbering system for this article and use numerals to identify other sites of interest.

a) Head frame site off Highway 10N
1) Townsite Headframe
2) The Gloryhole
3) McKinley Darragh Mill Site
b) Cobalt Lake Mine
4) Little Silver Vein
4b) Vein 96 (Inaccessible – headframe and hoist dismantled)
5) Cart Lake Tailing and Lookout
c) Cart Lake Headframe and mill
6) Nippising “96” Minesite (Inaccessible – closed)
d) Nippising Hill Ruins and Vein
7) Nippising Hill Lookout
8) Nippising 81 Open Cut
9) Right of Way Mine
10) Agnico / Eagle Creek Refinery
11) Blacksmith Shop
e) Town of Cobalt
12) Nippising “73” Meyer Shaft (Cobalt)
13) Coniagas #4 Headframe (Cobalt)
14) Pan Silver Headframe (Cobalt)
15) Northern Customs Concentrator
16) The Cobalt Mine Site
17) Nova Scotia Mill Minesite (Closed – Accessed anyway)
18) Crown Reserve/Kerr Lake (Closed – Accessed anyway)
19) Silver Sidewalk
20) Jack Koza Park (Cobalt)

For more information about the silver trail and its many attractions you can check out the following websites:

https://www.heritagesilvertrail.ca/10-00-hst.html

http://www.cobaltmininglegacy.ca/visitingCobalt.php

https://heritagesilvertrail.ca/PDF/2019-Trail-Guide.pdf

a) Highway 10 Headframe

Heading north along highway 10, one will find a rather plain headframe by the site of the road left to greet you on the road into the town! This is where your adventure will likely begin unless you are traveling in from Haileybury. A headframe is a structure that you will find regularly around the minesites. It is a structure built above the mineshaft to hold the pulleys, cables and mechanical equipment needed to raise mineral loads up and down the shaft. These shafts are interlined by perpendicular tunnels in its sides where miners dig to intercept veins.

1) Townsite Headframe

Not far from the tower, where the parking is located, you will find some old mining carts. This area is located across the street from the headframe. After you park, cross the street to visit both the gloryhole and the townsite headframe.

Located inside the confines of the town of Cobalt, this rusted out headframe casts a long shadow. Erected in 1907, it served as an unofficial entrance to the early cobalt camp.

The massive tower 98 meter (320ft ) shaft still remains one of Cobalt’s most impressive structures.

Although surrounded by a steel fence, you can still get relatively close to the structure.

Anyhow, enjoy!

2) The Gloryhole

Located next to the previously mentioned headframe you will find the gloryhole (I know… funny name lol). This massive open pit is fenced off but you can view it nerveless.

The 76 meter (250ft) shaft has now filled with water and you will notice steel cables straddling the walls of the hole from side to side. These cables once supported a tin roof structure that kept the miners dry while they worked.

On the sides of the hole you will find deep shafts in the rock. These run for miles under the forest.

Most amazingly, I was surprised at how rudimentary silver extraction was at this time. The glory hole was dug by using dynamite to blast the rock and then dislodged silver being sorted in the debris.

McKinley Darragh Mill Site (3)

The next site will take you on the western end of Lake Cobalt where you will find one of many placards dedicated to the work of the Group of Seven painters in their depictions of Cobalt.

From here you will get your first glimpse at the watercourse.

The mill site itself is one of the most impressive places in Colbalt. The giant heap of rubble dominates this part of the landscape. Once a large complex, this complex will also have a sign explaining the history of the Tri-Town Trolley, a transportation system, once located on the ridge you are standing on. The 1910 system connected Cobalt and Haileybury at a price of 10c a ride. The project would unfortunately be terminated in 1935.

The mill itself is built on a land claim by two Temiskaming and Northern Railroad workers. Out collecting some timber in 1903, they came upon a glistering rock on the south shore of Cobalt Lake. Their claim developed into a system of 5 shafts and 24km’s of tunnels and produced 20 million ounces of silver during the first 16 years of operations. The mill itself dates from 1907 and is the first of its kind in the cobalt camp.

Today you can climb to the top of the structure for a view of the surroundings. The structure closed in 1927 and burned down the following year.

b) Cobalt Lake Mine

Up the road from the mill, on the lakefront, you will find the ruins of the Cobalt mine. Although unmarked on the silver trail it is surely worthy of a visit.

The site is quite large and as such be sure to walk around it in its entirety.

Although staked in 1906, initial prospecting was difficult due to the site conditions. Although tunneling soon began, a mill would not be established here until 1911. In 1915 the lake was even pumped out to access its lakebed!

In 1932, blasting broke through the bedrock and mine tailings filled the mine rendering it unworkable. The site was soon abandoned.

Today the millsite is still clearly visible along with some of the outbuildings.

A walk aroud the site will reveal a plethora of industrial rubble, a mix of concrete, wood and steel.

While near the lake you will find an old chute along with some mechanical equipment.

Little Silver Vein (4) and (4b) – The Second Site is inaccessible.

The next stop on our list is not far from the Cobalt mine. The Little Silver Vein was discovered in 1903 and formed part of the Little Nipissing silver mine site.

This site will allow you a a look at the deep veins that were exploited for their silver as well as a look at the local sedentary rock that housed these mineral veins.

If you continue into the woods you will find a second hole in the rock, this time shallow, with signage showing that this was a test hole that was blasted then abandoned when no silver was found!

Walking around the site you will find further mementos of the mines once formidable presence. Unfortunately site 4b) – Vein 96 is Inaccessible as the headframe and hoist were dismantled.

5) Cart Lake Tailing and Lookout

The next stop allows travelers to wander! Cart lake is comprised of a viewpoint over a former minesite tailing pond. The pond itself is now home to some homemade sea creatures.

From the viewpoint you will be able to spot two headframe in the distance along with the remains of a mill. If you wish you can walk out all the way to it!

c) Cart Lake Headframe and Mill

Of these structures, Provincial # 2 headframe is the most impressive. Dating from 1908, it operated intermittently until 1944.

On the site of the former Silverfields mill dating from 1963, along with its rusting equipment.

Walking around you will find a plethora of intresting mining debris from when the mine site was still active.

If anything enjoy the view of the tailings and their homemade seamonster.

6) Nippising “96” Minesite – Closed

Unfortunately this minsite near the cart lake lookout is closed. It is too bad as I looked up picures of the Vein and headframe and it looks pretty neat…

d) Nippising Hill Ruins and Vein

Climbing up towards Nippising Hill you will come across some interesting ruins. Nearest to the road you will see a massive vein ripping through the landscape, although it is fenced off so it may be hard to notice at first.

You will ten find a first concrete blockhouse.

The on top of the slope you will find a second.

And finally from here you will get a great view of the town!

7) Nippising Hill Lookout

At the top of the slope, where the road ends, you will have reached the Nippinsing Hill lookout. Here you will find slides of Cobalt past and present.

In 1903 Silver was discovered on the hill and the Nippising Mining Company soon became the richest in the camp. At the top of this hill was once a mill that was fed ore from the Nipissing 73 Meyer Shaft Mine across the valley. This was done so by way of an aerial tram constructed in 1912!

Today you can climb above this mill for panoramic views of the town.

8) Nippising 81 Open Cut

At the bottom of Nippising Hill you will be able to view a giant open cut in the landscape running upwards. As you may have noticed the hill is relatively devoid of vegetation. This is due to the fact that in 1914 it was swept clean in by high-pressure hydraulic hoses in order to assist in the search for new silver veins. Water was pumped from a plant on the shores of Cobalt Lake for this endeavor, a practice that would surely not pass regulatory standards of today’s mining industry.

From your position at this location you will also have a great view of the town and Cobalt Lake..

Along the water’s edge you will find ma few remnants of the sites former industrial activity

9) Right of Way Mine

The most iconic headframe in Cobalt is surely belongs the Right of Way mine. This silver-cobalt production center opened in 1906 and was shut down. From the nearby overpass/underpass over the rail line you will get a fantastic view of the building. The rights for the mine originally belonged to the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Rail company as one can attest by the proximity to the rail line.

Although the site was shuttered in 1909, it was reactivated several times over the next 78 years. Today this spooky area of Cobalt would make for a perfect movie set!

Scattered around the site is some machinery. Interestingly enough the land claim extended on both sides of the railway, straddling it!

From this vantage point you will also get a good vantage point of the reailway, lake and Cobalt town train station.

10) Agnico / Eagle Creek Refinery

Once home to the Larose Mill, the site was demolished at the end of its life. Agnico/Eagle creek is a big donor to the town but little is left of this complex but a few vacant laboratories.

11) Blacksmith Shop

Located near the iconic Agnico Refinery, this building has actually been relocated from its previous location near the railway tracks at the bottom of the slope. It is important due to its connection to the legend of Fred LaRose, a man who discovered silver when he threw his hammer at a fox. Instead of hitting the animal he hit a silver outcrop. His property skyrocketed in price and he sold the site for a tidy profit, returning to Hull, Quebec.

e) Town of Cobalt

In this section we look at sections of the town of Cobalt not covered in the Silver Trail.

Firstly, from the eastern edge of the city one can climb up to get a good view of the surrounding views but there .

You will also find another signs dealing with the group of seven and their paintings of Cobalt.

On the road into the downtown you will get a great view of the lake, downtown and train station.

On the east side of town you will find an old bell, a symbol of Cobalt’s first schoolhouse established in 1906. At first the remoteness of the town made it that the school had could not recruit qualified candidates from the south. A local woman had to take charge and the land cleared of squatters.

Downtown you should make sure to visit the Cobalt Mining Museum offering great resources on the Silver Trail, tours of the Colonial mine and artifacts from the glory days of mining.

Other sights include the famous Miner’s Tavern, the only real lake night bar, offering you the mining tavern experience. A fun fact about Cobalt’s legacy is that it spurred intense speculation in the camps, foreigners poring in and in turn it transformed Toronto into an economic boom town, the stock market exchange in Toronto was created and the economic situation improved.

In behind the Pan Headfrome you will find my favorite old factory, a stunning masonry structure.

You will also find the old train station building dating from 1905. The line brought many passengers in to the North and ores back down south.

In 1884 cobalt was discovered in Cobalt giving the town its name. Later Cobalt was determined to be a byproduct of silver production, making the name even more apt considering 450million tons of silver were extracted from nearby veins.

The first silver claims led to a rush making Cabalt a boom town. The town had many devastating fires such as the 1909 one, yet persevered and peaked in the 1930’s followed by a swift decline. Although production made a comeback in the 1950’s, by the 1980’s no mines were still in operation. In recent years claim exploration has restated for different minerals and precious stones.

Enjoy walking along the railroad for stunning view of the Lake.

12) Nippising “73” Meyer Shaft (Cobalt)

Another one of Cobalts famed minesites, it operated from 1907 to 1932 and transported its loot to the mill on Nipissing Hill by way of an arial tramway. It is located right on the edge of the city.

13) Coniagas #4 Headframe (Cobalt)

Located at the intersection of Prospect Avenue and Silver Street, is a strange sight, a bookshop doubling as Cobalt’s disguised headframe famed. Constructed on Silver Street and becoming an integral part of the landscape, the structure once housed a tourist bureau, general store and market amongst other uses and hiding a shaft from 1915 that runs 110m (350 feet) deep. When the building was a market the rising cold air from the shaft was funneled into the meat and veggies section, serving as a rudimentary air conditioning unit. Unfortunately the shaft was filled in 2015.

14) Pan Silver Headframe (Cobalt)

Opposite to the Cobalt Mining Museum you will find the Pan Silver Headframe, located right in the heart of the downtown core. Here, under the skinny headframe, you will find a plethora of historical signage talking about the region’s history and the legacy of Cobalt’s silver mining.

You will also find a commemorative plaque dedicated to Willet Green Miller, Ontario’s first geologist!

Scatered around the site are various pieces of equipment and their various descriptions.

15) Northern Customs Concentrator / The “104”Mill

Dating from 1913, this mill ruin service many of the other mines in Cobalt.

Like the other mills you can climb its rapidly decaying walls for a view of the surroundings. Like most things it town it was subsumed by fire in 1956.

16) The Colonial Mine Site

This mine site was discovered in 1904 and represents the first site outside the immediate cobalt area where silver was discovered. The mine entrance is located at the top of a hill where the derelict ruins of structures line the hill from the bottom up. This was once an old mill for the mine!

You can either park at the bottom of the site or at the top. From the top you will find many items belonging to the miners.

As well as a few abandoned shafts.

Once again you will get a fantastic view from this area.

Before you leave, make sure you catch the mine shaft entrance, now sealed.

This shaft can be used for guided tours of the underground, arranged by the Cobalt Mining Museum at 24 Silver Street (cobaltminingmuseum@gmail.com or (705) 679-8301 to arrange tours). The shaft will give you an unadulterated look at what ming was like in Cobalt in the 20th century.

17) Nova Scotia Mill Minesite (Closed – Accessed anyway)

Another one of Cobalt’s lost Silver Trail sites, the Nova Scotia Mill is still easily accessible from one of the many gravel roads south of the town. Overlooking a large body of water that was once drained (1968), the mill is in rough condition.

Opposite to the lake you have a dam holding back mine tailing. The site is contaminated and remediation efforts still take place periodically. Knock the dirt off you boots before you get back in your vehicle. The mill itself is located on this side of the lake, the decaying concrete being on a hill overlooking the lake.

18) Crown Reserve/Kerr Lake (Closed – Accessed anyway)

Located in an isolated part of Cobalt, to the south of of the city. Kerr lake is unfortunately closed these days. I decided to make my way out there anyway in order to take a look around and to my surprise the site is still relatively accessible and the heritage panelling was still up. I think the lake must have been closed in order to conduct new mining exploration which is too bad as it is one of the more interesting sites in Cobalt.

This is a strange property. Much of the mining actually took place under the lake and the property had to be drained/pumped so the silver in its slopes could be exploited. Many abandoned ghost structures can be seen surrounding the lake.

Exploration started in 1904, at first by by J.A.Jacobs of Montreal (until 1905. then by Kerr Lake Mining Co. until 1928. It continued limping along under various companies until 1964 when it was shut down. Today you will find many of the slope shafts still intact as well as random items such as elevators and rusting machinery.

19) Silver Sidewalk

Although it is now closed, this site near Kerr lake is one worth noting (if even for your own background information) as it shows just how prevalent silver was as a material in Cobalt during the early years. Discovered in 1905, the vein was quickly exploited and its discovery was considered to be sensational even amid Cobalt’s other discoveries. you see the name Silver Sidewalk came from the fact that this surface level vein stretched for a length of about 100 m, with a depth of 60 m and a width of up to 0.3 m. Today the empty vein still exists and can be viewed on the surface although it is fenced off.

20) Jack Coza Park (Cobalt)

The last attraction on the Silver Trail, this Cobalt park. Located on lake Cobalt it is home to many pieces of mining equipment recovered from mine sites in the region.

I wont run trough all the pieces found here but I have added a few pictures for you enjoyment

Conclusion

Despite its lack of traditional “charm”, Cobalt ranks high on what would call “interesting”, a much more important quality when choosing where to visit and I should add that I would even describe the town as “underrated”, that much maligned and overused term. A visit to Cobalt is like being send directly back in time to observe a world long swallowed away by modernity and all its comforts. Welcome to Canada’s premier mining town and an undervalued outdoor museum giving an unparalleled view into North America’s mining heritage.

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