Český Krumlov – Bohemia’s Most Beautiful Town
One of the pretties town in Europe, Český Krumlov is notoriously full of tourists during the summer months and almost empty in the spring and winter. I visited the city on an empty spring day and although I brought material study on the train I only studies ever so marginally. I was with my good friend John and we ended up talking most of the time.
After all it was a beautiful day and there no rush getting back to Prague on time for anything of importance. Sometime you just have to enjoy the sunshine while take in the moment and there is no better place for that then Český Krumlov!
Table of Contents
Geography
Taking the train through the pristine south Bohemian agricultural scenery, one cannot help to notice the gentle rolling hills. Český Krumlov is located about 20 kilometres (12 mi) south of České Budějovice, itself about 134 km (83 mi) south of Prague and by the time you arrive you will start to notice a slight change of Scenery from these other centers.
As you train from Prague comes to a stop and you begin to walk into the urban core, you will notice that the gentle rolling hills are now foothills. In fact from the plateau overlooking the city, from the train station side, you will notice the Bohemian Forest Foothills, a protected area.
In the city itself, you will better understand the reason for its distinct name. The word Krumlov originates in Middle High German as Krumme Aue, a term that can roughly be translated to crooked meadow. This will be plainly obvious after one notices the massive bend of the Vltava river, the same river that passes through Prague.
Finally the city is divided in two halves. The first part called Latrán, constructed on the north side of the river directly below the castle. The people who lived here usually worked within its walls. The second part was founded at a later date as a brand new settlement called Old Town and is located south of the river.
A Brief History
Due to its geography, the city has always been a prized location for settlement. In fact it is one of those rare places that has permanently inhabited, with the oldest settlement going back to the Stone Age (70,000–50,000 BC). The Slavic settlement appears in the 6th century when the Slavs migrate into Europe from the east.
Medieval Ages
The town really begins to take its present form in 1250 when the the castle is founded by the Vítkovci. The are a noble Czech familly descendants of Witiko of Prčice who in turn was part of a branch of the Přemyslid dynasty, the ruling dynasty of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The town in the era had both Czechs and Germans as well as Jews since 1334.
The town would reach maximum prosperity during the 15th century under the tutelage of the Rosenberg family of nobles. Given the city by King Wenceslaus II after the Vítkovci familly died out, the family made it their home serving in high capacities on the King’s court.
The Renaissance and Austrian Domination
The Rosenberg made the town rich by their promotion of trade and crafts but it was the discovery of gold gold in the late 15th century that elevated the city above others. This is when the German population became more prevalent, as they had experience with deep-shaft mining and began to pour into town. With their new revenues, the family transformed the castle into a Renaissance residence and added their new gardens.
Unfortunately, in 1602 the Rosenburgs sold their holdings to Austrian Emperor Rudolf II who in turn gifted it to his illegitimate son. In 1620, the Battle of White Mountain rebellion pitting the Czech’s against the Austrians would ensure that the Austrians would keep this holding within Austrian hands.
Industrialization, Czechoslovakia and the Modern Era
The 19th century saw the industrialization of the city, and the city walls were torn down in a bid to modernize. After the Second World War it passed to the new state of Czechoslovakia. This did not last long as during the interbellum period it was annexed by Nazi Germany as part of the Sudetenland, under the Munich Agreement.
This event was repaid in spades when after the war Germans were expelled. Since Germans had become the minority, the town now laid mostly in abandon. The lack of capital during the communist years ensured that the town would fall into ruin. Fortunately, since its liberalization the town has been on the upswing is a titan of the Czech tourism industry.
Exploring Český Krumlov!
Once you leave the train station you will be a short walk from the beautiful city. Your adventure begins here. For those with cars forget about driving in.
Park outside the city walls and walk in, this is one of the most walkable places in the Czech Republic and with good reason. The narrow and winding cobbled streets are a joy to walk through!
Latrán
The castle foreground, the Latrán will likely be your first introduction to the city, especially if coming in from the Train Station to the north.
In that case you will have to cross over a bridge to the city gate where you will get a good view of a stream, an old mill and Hostel 99, built right into where the city wall once was.
At the end of the first street you will find the old brewery as well as one of the few remnants of the city walls, now converted into a hotel.
From a vantage point you can truly see how large the brewery complex is. Most of it is still abandoned, with a small section still in operation, but hopefully it will all be renewed some day.
The back alleys that wind around the brewery should also give you a good idea of the scope of the grounds.
Tracing back your staps along the aptly named Pivovarská road (Pivo meaning beer), you will find the Krumlov Monastery complex, the first building of the complex is a grey building with a path that leads into the main courtyard.
Here you will find the stunning Monastery of the Minorites. The 14th century structure with baroque additions (specifically the chapel Corpus Christi and St. Mary in Pain) offers guided tours and a small museum for your enjoyment. Established Peter I of Rosenberg in 1350 as a monastery of Minorites and Clare nuns and included a common church.
At the center of the complex stands a park called Tramín where you will get great view of all the buildings. Dont miss the tombstone of the family of Michael Antonín of Ebbersbach, who was employed as an alchemist at the court of the Krumlov ruler Wilhelm of Rosenberg. After Wilhelm’s death in 1592, owing to fraud, he was put into castle gaol, where he died in 1593.
You will also find a gate with the coat-of-arms of the Knights of the Cross. From here you will be able to see the castle tower rising up in behind. For more information on this must see complex click here.
Though the gate you will be thrust into the beautiful old Latran via an alley, my favorite alley in the city actually due to the colourful building facades. It is called Klášterní or cloister, again an aptly named street!
They alley merges onto Latran street, a major artery that curves towards the river or branches off towards the castle (Zamek ulice/street). I have includes a few scenes from this street below as it is one of the most iconic in the city.
Eventually you will hit the bridge into the old town where you will get a great view of the St. Jost Church. Built by the Rosenburgs, by Peter I. von Rosenberg to be exact! It was a part of the Rosenbergs´ hospital and was constructed in 1334. It is the most iconic structure in the Latran, mostly due to its beautiful tower.
You will aslo get pretty good view of the castle above.
Castle and Gardens
Assuming you took the path branching up towards the castle you will be presented with the renaissance tower dominating the town.
A portico will take you across a moat and into the castle courtyard.
Here the solid stone structure, without the camouflage of its outer colorful structures will present itself.
Look back to admire the tower amidst the glorious decorations on the buildings of the courtyard.
From this courtyard a passageway will take up to the castle inner courtyards.
These internal spaces have been decorated in contrast will the plain walls of the exterior. Much of the renovations took place with the reign of Johann Christian I von Eggenberg who added to the structure in Baroque, in alignment with the Jesuit style that has swept the catholic world. The castle theater, now called the Eggenberg Theatre was built in 1767 and is one of the most beautiful in that style.
The passageways will then takes you up to the back of the castle. Do look out for a White Lady, the ghost may be that of Perchta of Rosenberg, and it says that she haunts the castle.
From here you will be transported in the back half of the structure, where the views of the river are amazing.
The views are courtesy of the Cloak Bridge, a four leveled baroque structure with statues connecting the backside of the caste to its gardens.
The views of the castle from this backside are amazing.
As well as the town along with the river.
As you move down the line the views are jusy as good!
At the back half of the castle you will find Zámecký park, the castle garden along with its modern rotating auditorium. The rectangular park is massive and stretches back for an eternity. From space it easily dwarfs the castle grounds a few times over.
South Bank
Wrapping around the castle, near the gardens is a pathway offering great views until you hit the south bank of the riverbend opposite to the Old Town.
This suburban area is doted by religious way-shines, as well as one of the city’s few synagogues, a striking green painted building.
Eventually you will arrive at your destination and as a reward be greeted with a magnificent landscape of the city that includes the best vantage point of the Church of St. Vitus (to the right).
You will find the fording point for the river nearby, where the old town gymnasium is located with its distinct neoclassical facade.
Old Town
Once you cross that bridge you will officially be in the old town. From the bridge the Church of St. Vitus will clearly be visible. This building will be discussed later.
In the west side of the old town, you will find a small industrial center which makes for an interesting break from the medieval landscape.
It goes without saying but the castle looks amazing from the riverfront.
Speaking of which you will find a few mementos of past medieval industrial ingenuity such as this waterwheel.
As well as these water channels that offer amazing views.
The heart of the city is the Svornosti Square. It is here that you will find the information center, market and the old city hall.
The buildings here really are gorgeous and so its the baroque Fountain and Plague Column. This monument can be found in almost all Czech cities but it sure looks good surrounded by all of the colourful buildings.
Behind the square is the Church of St. Vitus, a gothic building constructed by the Rosenbergs and then improved on by the Schwarzenbergs. It was first erected in 1309, but the building you see today dates from 1438 with a later 17th century makeover. The crypt once held the duke of Český Krumlov, Jan Christian I of Eggenberg however his remains were later moved to Graz, where the Eggenberg palace is located.
From the square, follow Horní street east. Along the street you will find the old town library and a palace.
Near the Regional Museum in the Czech Krumlov, you will find the best viewpoint of the city. This courtyard is beautiful and well worth a stop.
Horní Street ends in a bridge crossing over land to another small suburb. This shows off some of the now gone fortification as one could see how this would have once been a gate and defensive point.
From here you will get a great view of the red mill building and the town itself.
Conclusion
In essence, the city is one defined by its pure beauty, and for those backpackers that like to explore on foot it is one of the most walkable places in the county. I can ramble on at length about its virtues but…
There is little more I can say if the pictures in this post have not convinced you. Especially the one below. Hope you make it out not to Český Krumlov but all of Czechia!
