České Budějovice – Home of the “Real” Budweiser
One of the great beer centers in the Czech Republic, along with the legendary city of Pilsen, České Budějovice is home to the original Budweiser, the Budweiser Budvar. Due to a vicious and nefarious series lawsuit by Budweiser’s parent company InBev this legendary beer is now marketed as Czechvar in North America. For comparison the St. Louis based Budweiser has been operating since 1876 while the Budweiser Budvar has been around since 13th century, being named after the German name for the town… Budweis! Anyhow, come see the city from whom two beers draw their inspiration!
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Geography
Located in the southern tier of Bohemia, at the confluence of the Vltava and the Malše River, the city is built in compact fashion along the river banks forming a small oval surrounded by a ring of greenery that was once a river fed moat. The lands around the city are flat and punctured by ponds, in fact it is part of the České Budějovice Basin.
A Brief History
Founded as a Royal City by the legendary Czech King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1265, the city has a long Czech History within the Kingdom of Bohemia. The town planning was orchestrated by the king’s knight Hirzo, with an emphasis on counterbalancing the House of Rosenberg in southern Bohemia. German speakers soon began to migrate here from the Bohemian Forest and Upper Austria. Germans soon became the majority, especially as the Czech lands became dominated by German Empires, a fact that would not rectify itself in the 19th century when Czech speakers once again became the majority, with a strong German minority lasting until after the Second World War.
Over the 14th century, the King of Bohemia allowed Jews to move in and they soon made their presence felt, contributing significantly to the culture. This peaceful refuge would last until the late 15th and 16th centuries when several pogroms occurred against the Jewish minority.
This period coincided with a general period of upheaval in Czech society. The radical teachings of the Czech Jan Hus led to conflict with the Catholic Church during the Hussite Wars. In this previously mentioned conflict, as well as the later Thirty Years war, the German town sided with the Catholic side, in this case the Germanic Habsburg monarchy. The town would even be occupied by Prussia during the Silesian Wars, as well as the French during their 1742 war with the Habsburgs.
For its loyalty the city was richly rewarded by the construction of a new Gymnasium during the reign of Joseph II as well as the relocation of the Koh-i-Noor Hardtmuth pencil factory in 1790 to the city, a continuation of Maria Theresa’s previous industrialization of the Czech Lands.
The 20th century was no less cruel to the city then the previous years, in fact they were much more barbaric. During the Second World War the city was occupied by Germany and a Gestapo Prison as well as a forced labour camp constructed. Jews were deported. During the war the city was bombed by the Allies and “Liberated” by the Soviets, falling under the maleficent yolk of the Communists. There was a brief joint military celebration by the nearby US army and the Soviets before this would happen.
Finally, in 1945, the last Germans were expelled from the city. A sad end to people who had lived in Czech since the inception of the city, but one borne from the trauma of the Second World War.
What to do in the city of Beer!
Wandering out of the train station and onto the quaint pedestrian boulevard that is Lannova Street, I was stuck and how clean and well kept the city was. The train station may have been crumbling but the city itself was surely not. Luckily for those exploring, the city quite compact with most of what you will want to do located in the old town but with a few attractions outside of it, including the Budweiser Budvar – located quite far from the city core.
Visit the New Town
On the previously mentioned Lannova Street, you will fine a find collection of Art Nouveau architecture mixed in with some neoclassical.
This avenue is the primary entry point into the old town and you will find quite a few statues!
In the new town I would recommend a visit to the Museum of South Bohemia in Ceske Budejovice, built in a stately old building as well as walking around the park where the moat once stood, as it is a pleasant green escape from the sun. Alternatively, stop by the Budvar Arena for a hockey game!
Visit the Old Town
Visiting the old town should be at the top of your list centered around the cathedral of St. Nikolaus with its iconic Černá Věž (Black Tower) located on the corner of Přemysl Otakar II square.
The religious structure sports a blue and white baroque facade. Completed in mid the 14th century with significant additions/renovations coming in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The 16th century black tower, rise up from the corner of the square. It has 225 steps and in the summer can be climbed for an unparalleled view of the city.
The square is named after the legendary founder of the city, the Czech King Ottokar II of Bohemia. At its center is the baroque Samson fountain, a beautiful piece that lies at the heart of what the city has to offer.
In front of the gorgeous fountain is the superbly decorated town hall painted in blue.
A walk along the west side of downtown, on the waterfront will reveal a beautiful view of the city’s medieval streetscape.
You will also find the Dominican monastery and a series of buildings belonging to catholic diocese.
This area culminates at the Hotel Budweis, a 14th century mill, now converted to a hotel.
Apart from that, just enjoy the predestine old town streets. They are just a delight!
Drink Beer By The Gallon (and maybe visit a brewery!)
Conspicuously left out of the New Town section is the Budweiser Budvar brewery. Although the facility is a modern one, it can be visited via a long walk to the suburban north end of the city. Guided tours are available and it makes for a nice afternoon. Alternatively, if you wish to stay in the old town, I recommend a visit to Masné krámy! Located in an old market building it features good food and the Krausened Lager, brewed in the same process as the Budweiser Budvar but of higher quality!
While in the latter, I enjoyed my beer while watching Slovakia dominate Sweden at hockey! Its not everyday you see the Czech’s cousin country beat the Baltic powerhouse! Oddly enough while walking around outside the pub we witnessed the Czech police put down two warring crowds of football hooligans.
Conclusion
Although over a hundred kilometers away from Prague, the city is well worth a visit, and with Český Krumlov located just due south you can really make the best of your visit here. Beyond the beer, the city offers a stunning medieval center and a respite from the Prague tourist crowds. An underrated place if there ever was one!
