Černová and Ružomberok – Andrej Hlinka’s Parish and the Černová Massacre

In the north-western quadrant of Slovakia, lies a region in the shadows of great mountain ranges and eclipsed by time itself. Yet in the 20th century, it was home to the Slovak National Revival and hosted one of the most remarkable events in Slovak history the Černová massacre at the Church of its most charismatic and controversial figures, the priest turned politician Andrej Hlinka.

Geography

Located on the Váh river, not far from the Malá Fatra to the north, in the western extents of the Sub-Tatra Basin, these settlements are completely surrounded by mountains. The both the city of Ružomberok and the town of Černová are located on the south bank of the Váh. In essence Černová is practically a suburb of the former.

History

The settlement has its roots with the Hungarian crown dating from when King Andrew II of Hungary granted the land to his servant Hudko. His descendent cultivated this land where the Slovak village Revúca had been founded in the 13th century. The kings of Hungary would later invite Germans to populate their lands. They founded a new settlement called Rosenberg not far from the Slovak village. The town rights were confirmed by 1340 by Charles I of Hungary

The proto-protestant Hussites in revolt against the crown would drive out the Germans in the 15th century, making the town a Slovaks replace them

The town really took of with industrialization in the back half of the 19th century, especially after the Kassa Oderberg Railway was created in 1871. This allowed the town to become an important industrial and financial center. Among industries represented were pulp and paper, brick works and the textile industry.

The town was one of the centers of the Slovak national movement and saw one of its most famed events take place nearby when in 1907, when Hungarian trained gendarmes fired upon Slovak protesters during the Černová tragedy. This raised significant interest in the plight of minorities under Hungarian rule.

The First World War saw the end of Austria-Hungary and the region became part of the Czechoslovak state. In 1939, Hitler invaded the Czechs and turned Upper Hungary (Slovakia) into the First Slovak Republic, a Nazi puppet state. In 1945 Czech troops retook the town but the whole of Czechoslovakia would fall under Soviet control. Slovakia would remains in this state until the Velvet Revolution and subsequent Velvet divorce that would once again create a Slovak state.

Exploring the Regions

Černová

At the time of the famous 1907 massacre that bears the towns name, the town was little more then a single dusty street. Today the village has grown larger but has little to do outside of visiting this church.

The Černová church was the initiative of the Slovak parish priest of Ružomberok who happened to be a native of Černová. To build it they raised their own funds and had money sent from Slovak Americans, an important diaspora in America centred around the industrial rust belt cities.

The locals wanted to have Andrej Hlinka consecrate the church but the Hungarian authorities instead sent two Hungarian-speaking priests, causing a scene. Peaceful protesters blocked access to the church and the gendarms fired upon the crowd. Unfortunately Hungarian propaganda funded by Viktor Orbán has tried to minimize Hungary’s cultural genocide of the Slovak people and has downplayed the role of the Hungarian state in this affair.

Outside the church you will find a memorial to the massacre. 15 people died on that day, and scores more were injured and they deserve to be remembered.

Ružomberok

Ružomberok’s downtown is quite pleasant, yet small. Podhora street is the principal one and its intersection with the elegant Mostová street forms the core of its lower town. This is where you will find the majority of the shops.

The upper town is home to much of the towns grand civic structure, including the old gymnasium (school), St Andrew’s Church and the elegant pink painted city hall.

Behind the city hall is St Andrew’s, the oldest parish church in town and dates from the 13th century, although it has seen many changes ranging from gothic, renaissance baroque alterations. It has also switched between a catholic and protestant building several times before settling down as a catholic institution in the 18th century. The interior of the church is known for its artwork and altars.

Behind the Church is a statue of Andrej Hlinka, whom Ružomberok was his parish for a time. Below this platform is his mausoleum. The structure dates from 1939, when his body was moved from the town cemetery to the tomb. His body was moved when the anti-religious Soviets moved in and in the shuffle of the things ended up getting lost. This makes it a bit of an oddity as the body is still lost to this day.

Vlkolínec

This alpine town is a perfectly preserved UNESCO cultural site just kilometres from the city. For more information click here.

Martin and the Museum of the Slovak Village

Although it is a full forty minute drive from the city, Martin is the true home of the Slovak National Revival and should be visited by those with and interest in Slovakia history, its people and their culture. Also the nearby mountains and village of the Slovak peasant are worth a look. For more information click here.

Conclusion

Although Černová and Ružomberok are not your typical tourist destinations, they are however worthwhile attractions. Not only is the region essential to understanding Slovakia’s modern history, particularly that of Andrej Hlinka’s independent push leading to the Černová Massacre, but it is also fulled with natural beauty!