Casablanca – The Beginning of a Beautiful Friendship
Of All The Gin Joints In All The Towns In All The World, She Walks Into Mine.
Casablanca (1942)
A shimmering white city emerging from the barren land of the Atlantic’s western Sahara coastline… is it a mirage? No it is not! Casablanca, once called a folly, still stands against all odds and remains the most curious of oddities. Not content with defying the naysayers, this Art Deco capital has continued to grow and even excel to become one of the most important business and port cities on the African continent. One of the few successful planned cities in the word Casablanca, is one of my favourites. Despite not being filmed in Morocco, the 1942 classic Casablanca perfectly sums up the city, and captures an air that it still holds today. The Vichy city may not have been free but it was cosmopolitan, filled with expatriates hanging around in smoky café’s while today it is a city where you will find Arabs, Berbers, French ex-pats and a plethora of African businessmen mingling. As a French Canadian I felt happy to use my mother tongue, some things have changed very little. Of All The Gin Joints In All The Towns In All The World, Casablanca Walked Into Mine.
*As an aside I teach English as a second language and I use a clip of that movie for one of my lessons.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History
- Getting Around / Transportation
- Where to Stay
- Exploring Casablanca
- Nightlife and Restaurants
- Scams and Staying Safe
- Conclusion
Geography
A logistics hub for the African continent, Casablanca is a major shipping port as well as a hub for African business. Although the city is built on the Chaouia, a fertile plain, there is little in the way of water courses. The Oued Bouskoura, a small seasonal creek, is all that the region can boast. It is now covered by the city above it but until 1912 reached the Atlantic Ocean near the actual port.
A Brief History
Although much of the city is associated with French Rule, the city has a rich history that predates them – despite its status as a modest port town.
Antiquity and Medieval Ages
Once a great Berber city called Anfa, the port was used by both the Phoenicians and Romans who were complimentary to it. They called it Anfus the port was founded in the first century A.D. Due to its location on a fertile plain, the city grew rapidly and emerged as an independent state called Barghawata.
In 1068 the state fell to the Almoravids and underwent a period of Arabization in the 12th century. The port grew in importance under the rule of the Merinids during the 14th century.
Arab, Portuguese and Spanish Influence
The city once again emerged as an independent state in the 15th century, serving as a port of privateers and pirates, much like Rabat up the coast. In response to this piracy the city was destroyed by the Portuguese in 1468. The city lay in ruin until 1515 Casa Branca, or “white house” in Portuguese. This settlement was briefly part of Spain when the Portuguese Crown was integrated into Spain, but it maintained its Portuguese administration. It returned to Portugal in 1640, before being completely destroyed in a 1755 earthquake. It was reoccupied by the Arabs who called the city ad-Dār al-Bayḍā, the Arabic translation of the Portuguese Casa Branca.
In the following years the city was re-occupied by the Arabs, this time the Alawite’s, now the ruling family of Morocco. The modest port built back up to about 5000 people by 1860 and was known for its trade of wool for trade in the British textile production. It was also known for the trade of gunpowder tea, used in Morocco’s national drink, the always delicious mint tea!
French Colonial and the Second World War
In 1906, the French used the Treaty of Algeciras to grow their influence over Morocco, including the port at Casablanca. They took control of the port, duties and established La Compagnie Marocaine, a holding company for their commercial interests. French colonists also began to arrive. The development of a new commercial port along with the subsequent industrial growth that followed it helped create the Casablanca we know today. This period was characterized by a rapid population growth from both other Moroccan cities as well as France to Casablanca, the city becoming an employment hub. An an architectural transformation then took place under Henri Prost that essentially rebuilt the city into a modern city, district from the past but conserving some of its heritage districts. This important process will be described below when exploring Casablanca’s neighbourhoods.
French rule tightened in 1907 after a Moroccan raid on a French railway, triggered by growing resistance to the 1906 treaty. Nine labourers on the Decauville locomotive were killed and the French responded by bombarding the city. In the chaos that ensued both the European quarter and the Jewish quarter were ransacked. The French launched gunboats and assaulted the town, landing troops. In the end over 15 000 were either killed or injured. This event kickstarted the French military occupation of Morocco, the invasion of the country and their establishment of the French Protectorate in 1912.
After Frances early defeat at the start of the Second World War, Casablanca became part of Vichy France under Philippe Pétain. During this period the city saw an influx of ex-patriots fleeing the Nazi regime much like Tangier. The city was retaken during Operation Torch in November 1942 by the forces of George S. Patton. After the Americans took the city it became an important military airbase of the United States.
In 1943 the Casablanca Conference took place where Winston Churchill, Franklin D. Roosevelt as well as the Free French generals Charles de Gaulle and Henri Giraud met to discuss the progress of the war. The city remained an important center for the American military over the course of the war and was targeted by German U-Boats.
The Modern Era
The seeds of independence were sown by way of a secret meeting between president Roosevelt and Sultan Muhammad V , the the American promised the later independence after the war. This would lead to Casablanca becoming a major center of Anti-French resistance in the 1940’s and 1950’s. This was a difficult period with both sides committing atrocities upon each other. The situation would not ease until 1956 when the country gained independence.
This easing was only momentary as the rigours of nationhood soon turned Casablanca into a hub for anti government protests, often brought on by the social condition of the Moroccan people. An unfortunate even in the period was the mass deportation of Morocco’s Jewish population from the city’s port. This is a complex event that deserves a deeper dive for those interested.
Getting Around / Transportation
By Air
Casablanca’s airport, Mohammed V International, is surprisingly far from the city center and a cab ride into town will cost more then you would usually pay in Morocco. Furthermore the sprawling city is choke full of traffic. If you wish to save on the cab fare, I recommend taking the airport commuter train. Not only does it run consistently throughout the day but it is safe, comfortable and will even take you to the old medina via the Casablanca Port station – the beautiful tourist station that will be discussed below in the intercity travel section.
A fun fact is that Mohammed V International Airport was conceived as the large American Airbase used to stage aircraft for European Operations in the Second World War.
Intercity Train Travel
Morocco’s intercity train system is surprisingly convenient and safe. Casablanca is ideally placed as a hub and sits on the mainline between the capital of Rabat and the southern metropolis of Marrakesh. In essence from Casablanca you can grab a train to almost anywhere in the country, often without a need for a transfer. You can also take secondary lines to centers such as El-Jadidah. There are two main railways stations in the city that you will use as a tourist (but also many others)
The first of these is the tourist station called Casa Port in the Old Medina. From here trains will likely be redirected to Casa Voyageurs, the main station. This massive complex is part of a mall so it is easy to grab some food to go. Also both stations have a McDonalds, if you are in a rush!
Tramways
Casablanca has a series of Tramways to allow you to traverse the city unimpeded, outside of the Old Medina. Please see a network map for more information.
Where to Stay
I strongly recommend staying at the venerable Hôtel Central. Not only is it affordable but it is authentic. This stunning colonial era building located in a beautiful white fainted French colonial building in the Old Medina overlooking the old port. The inside combines the charm of Neo-Moorish architecture with that of colonial era furniture with stunning blue painted doors and furniture. From its roof line you will get great view of the city, including the Hassan II mosque. From here it is easy to walk towards the Casa Port train station as it is located right at the outskirts of the Medina (<5min). For those interested in a cheaper option a cozy youth hostel exists just around the corner in the same square.
Exploring Casablanca
The French government described Casablanca as a “laboratory of urbanism.” and that definition surely is accurate. During your travels through the city you will encounter a wide range of architecture including both modern and old, from native Arab styles to imitations, from Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Bauhaus, Neo-Moorish and Beau Art. The neo Moorish in particular is interesting as a combination being a hybrid of Mauro-Andalusi and Art Deco architecture, both eastern and western styles. Casablanca is a playground for your eyes to feast on.
The city known as Casablanca today is known for its wide boulevards and sweeping use of grandiose architecture, yet before the French conquest it was little more then a collection of Shanty towns. In fact during the early years of French occupation the population rose from 10 000 people to 110 000 in 1921. To manage their new prized possession, and its influx of population, the French governor Hubert Lyautey hired Henri Prost to redesign the city. This famed architect spent a decade in the country redesigning other Moroccan cities like Rabat, Fez and Marrakesh. Seen as foolish at the time he was later viewed as visionary. Like Paris plan was radio-concentric, with major arterial radiating south from the port and the medina via the Souq Kbir (now United Nations Square).
The work conducted on both the city and the port ensured that by the end of the protectorate in 1956, Casablanca had ballooned in population to a size of a million inhabitants and a substantial industry.
The Medina and the Port
Lyautey’s and Prost’s plan to build new European cities that were separate from the old Moroccan towns with clear divisions between both. It had one wonderful benefit, they left the traditional medinas intact. This allowed for the preservation of the charming old town. In fact old medinas were inconvenient for the new administrators with narrow alleys being ideal for revolutionaries and for disease to spread.
Due to the multiple destructions of the city and the smaller size of Casablanca in the years before French rule, the medina is quite small compared to other Moroccan cities. In the medina you will find a few key attractions. The first is the remaining sections of the old city wall, the most famous of which is the gate near the entrance of the Nouvelle Ville (to be covered in that section). Other sections of note include the gate at the plaza by the previously mentioned hotel central as well as a section to the north, a converted bastion and now a restaurant (that will be covered in the nightlife section). These are located on the eastern side of the Medina.
The plaza near the square is well known for it being a rare bastion of French architecture within the old town. Here one will find a few cafe’s and places to eat, moreso at the rooftop level. This spot is often frequented by the locals at night and music can often be heard.
From many of the building rooftops here, you will have a fantastic view of the medina. Even moreso as the sun sets. On the other side one will see the port, one of the most important in this part of Africa and a huge reason for the city’s existence.
Not far from here, to the south-east, you will find the port itself. Although modern it is still a sight to be seen from the rooftops of the Hôtel Central.
The area is currently experiencing a rapid redevelopment centering around Casa Voyageur.
As for the old Medina itself, its whitewashed buildings are worth a look, even just to experience what life is like in the old city. Watch out for the Ettedgui Synagogue while you are at it. There may no longer be many Jews in Morocco but traces of their civilization can be found everywhere.
There are another two popular attractions to consider. The first is located at the north end of the Medina, Rick’s Café. Based on the movie Casablanca (1942), it will be further discussed in the nightlife section. The other is the Ould el-Hamra Mosque, best known for its massive minaret overlooking this district.
La Ville Nouvelle
Radiating outward from the Souq Kbir (the grand market), once Place de France and now United Nations Square is a network of arterial boulevards lined with imposing colonial era structures and the occasional modern monstrosity. This square linked the medina, the mellah, and the ville européenne.
This part of the city was built for the Europeans in contrast with the Habbous. La Ville Nouvelle may look a little rough around the edges today but once upon a time it was beating heart of a cosmopolitan protectorate. In fact during this era the French population capped out at 50% of the city.
Just east of the United Nations Square is the Derb Ghlef neighborhood, home to some of Casa Blanca’s most quirky architectural masterpieces. The first signs of witch are located in the square, Here you will find modern offices combined with stately Moroccan styled buildings (almost a modern mix of Moorish with prairie style) and Art Nouveau structures. If you follow the radiating streets (Rue Chenier in particular) east you will find another small square with hotels, boutiques and weird art.
Once Bausaus building that will stand out is the curvaceous structure where the ISIS cafe is located.
Here are a few other pictures of streets and buildings found in the area.
Nearby you will find Avenue Mohamed V, one of the grandest streets in the city and home to some of the city’s best architectural gems including the old post office building, still in operation today. Other landmarks include the Central Marketplace, including the Cafés Dubois/.
On side streets you will also find the most famous art deco building, the Cinema Rialto.
Along with this Art Nouveau beauty!
Surrounding this neighborhood you will find many churches belonging to other nationalities and their expatriates, even a Russian one exits!
The centerpiece of the Nouvelle Ville is the Arab League Park (formerly Parc Lyautey). The largest greenspace in the city, it is located in the center of the Ville Nouvelle, just due south-west of the united nations square. An oasis in the center of a concrete jungle, this leafy park is well worth a stop. One of the highlights is a visit to the Sacred Heart Cathedral, although no longer active for religious service it is still possible to visit for tourists (although at the time I visited it was closed for renovations). The 1930 cathedral, a Neo-Gothic Roman Catholic one still dominates this part of the city and is an important cultural artifact.
Just south of the park you will find the Villa des Arts, a 1934 Art Deco villa now used for arts exhibits.
In the surrounding neighbourhoods you will again find a wide range of architecture, including a few old stately buildings.
Also some of the murals are fly… just saying!
Many of the previously mentioned stately buildings are in fact state owned and located in Mohammed V Square, just north east of the Arab League Park, almost touching its corner.
The park itself is hardscape rather then softscape like Arab League. The 1916 square is home to a massive fountain aligned with the modern Grand Theater building at the west end of the square.
On the seat side of the square you will find Morocco’s Neo-Moorish courthouse. To the north the Bank Al Maghrib, to the south-east the French General Consulate.
To the south you will find a clocktower with another structure displaying Casablanca’s rich trove of Neo-Moorish architecture. This is one of the best examples of the Neo-Moorish architecture but it you are interested do visit the Old Abattoirs building renovated by Prost in 1922. Located near Casa Voyageur, it is a great example of the style.
La Corniche
This area consists of the stretch of land from the north-east where the Hassan II mosque is located, to the El Hank Lighthouse via a crescent shaped piece of land and then again all the way to a second triangular outcropping to the west of El Hank where it hits the Ain Diab Beach. For the sake of this post I will also extend this section to include l’Ilot I religious shrine on an Atlantic island off the coast. This route can be followed by walking along the massive Boulevard de la Corniche, a beautiful walk along the Atlantic ocean that transforms into the Boulevard de L’Atlantique.
The Corniche starts at its most stunning at the base of the Hassan II mosque. A miracle of modern engineering and design this beautiful waterfront structure is a symbol of the city.
In the background of the mosque you will have surely noticed the lighthouse, this is El Hank. Although the area is now severely run down you will be able to find good restaurants closer to the corniche itself.
L’Îlot (de Sidi Abderrahman) is an interesting place. Housing the Shrine of Sidi Abderrahman, a local saint responsible for curing a plethora of mental illnesses. It is located just past the Corniche, it is now surrounded by malls on its most western flank and a long stretch of beach on both sides, it seems not to have lost its serenity. As a non-Muslim I regrettably could not visit but I could walk around the complex.
Habbous
Located south of the Ville Nouvelle, the Habbous was created to appeal to Moroccan locals. Its architecture is one of imitation, recreating the Moorish and Arab architecture of old with courtyards and intertwining passages, bot organized in a more sanitary way. It is actually in this district that the Moroccan King has his Casablanca Palace.
Nightlife and Restaurants
For those looking for a fun night out, you are in luck! Despite Morocco being a Muslim country, Casablanca is home to a vibrant and diverse nightlife. For the sake of this post I will concentrate on four key areas; the old Medina, the Corniche, the Business District and the Nouvelle Ville.
NOTE: While in the city make sure to order the namesake beer, Casablanca. I was skeptical but it is actually pretty good.
NOTE 2: Due to Morocco’s strict liquor laws the few places that will sell alcohol are usually required to serve food with it. Be careful not to order a big meal, as the appetizers may be too much afterwards.
The Medina
There are two fantastic places I would recommend in the Medina. The first is the most obvious one, a jin joint named Café Rick. Based on the famed bar from Hollywood’s Casablanca, this recreated space offers more charm then the usual tourist trap.
The recreated interior has a neo Moorish charm and is jammed packed with Casablanca memorabilia such as posters and pictures of the actors. The crowning feature is a lounge where the movie Casablanca runs for 24 hours a day on a loop.
This pub is licenced to sell boze and what good cocktails they make! I strongly suggest choosing the Classic – Gin Ricky!
My second recommendation for dining in the Medina is a fantastic restaurant located in one of the medina’s old bastions, the previously mentioned La Sqala! Built right into the defences of the old city, this is one of the best places to eat in the entire city. Although more expensive then your typical Moroccan fair, you will be privy to a fantastic atmosphere.
La Corniche
The Corniche is a popular hangout location both in the day and the nighttime. During the day you will find crowded beach bars and at night places like the BAO Night-Club tend to be busy. A cool place to check out is the Le Rocher restaurant. Unfortunately they no longer have a liquor license but this place offers a fantastic view of the water as well as the Hassan II mosque in the distance. Once a hangout for Piaf, it has seen better days, yet the well preserved interior will remind you of what Casablanca was like once upon a time.
Maârif/Business Center
This business district is home to a mix of old colonial buildings, grand boulevards and modern office towers, government buildings as well as condos. It is no surprise then that you will find the city’s only Irish Pub. The only negative thing I will say about this place is that it is quite sexist to female travellers. You cannot sit inside the bar unless accompanied by a male and are required to sit on the outside patio.
Finally, the most well known of Morocco’s modern bars is surely the notorious… Sky 28! Located atop the twin business towers of Casablanca, this lounge offers an unparalleled view of the city below! A cosmopolitan hangout you will meet business people from all over the world, including many of the well heeled from the African continent.
Although it is surely the most expensive place on the list, from the vantage point (the highest in the city, you will be able to see the city from all directions. Order a cocktail and relax! This is one of the bars I visited on my last night in the country and I did not regret it.
Scams and Staying Safe
Although Morocco is a safe country for tourists, it should be noted that Casablanca is considered to be more dangerous then others in Morocco. Although this may put a damper on your nightlife plans it should not. With your head on a swivel and a little bit of common sense you can mitigate the worst of the massive city’s seedy underbelly. Most of the crime that happens in the city can be traced back to the rougher suburban areas and to walking alone at night in such a district. I did not feel unsafe during my visit to the core, especially the Corniche which has become a popular strolling location for locals (especially near the Hassan II mosque) but it is never a bad idea to pair up with a friend or two if you want to walk home instead of taking a cab from a less touristic bar/neighbourhood. I had no issues while visiting the city but I did keep to the core of the Ville Nouvelle, Corniche and Medina.
Conclusion
Although it has the reputation of a dirty and loud port town, lacking the charm and history of other Moroccan cities, I find Casablanca to be severely underrated. If you appreciate architecture and urbanity this will surely be a city for you. Besides, walking along the ocean at night and looking out at the Grand Mosque is an exhilarating experience!
Thank you Casablanca, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
