Cairo – The New Chaotic Capital of Egypt Built on the Nile

When the Arab armies invaded Egypt, they founded a new capital on the Nile upstream from the ruins of Memphis, one the capital of Lower Egypt. The name of this city was Fustat, now a suburb of modern Cairo. The city may have had a late start in comparison to its contemporaries but the chaotic metropolis has more than made up for its. It’s star may have dimmed in recent years, but it is still one of the leading centers of Middle Eastern and African culture. Cairo is still in many ways the he City of a Thousand Minarets!

Geography

Located on the east bank of the eternal Nile River, near the start of the delta leading to the Mediterranean sea, Cairo is forever linked to the river that gave it life!

History

Cairo is a sprawling city filled to the brim with history. I have tried to condense it for you, the reader.

Ancient Egypt and Antiquity

As preciously mentioned, the city of Memphis located south of Cairo, was at the heart of Ancient Egypt. The Romans established a fortress called Babylon in the fourth century that served as the heart of the Roman and later Byzantine cities. Today this suburb of the city is referred to as Coptic Cairo for the proliferation of ancient churches.

Medieval Cairo

The early Islamic period was one of great upheaval in Egypt as different Islamic dynasties vied for control of their new territories.

In 640 A.D, the Muslim Arabs invaded Byzantine Egypt and established al-Fustat. Originally a tented camp, Fustat signifies “City of Tents”, it soon became the new Islamic capital of Egypt. After the overthrow of the Umayyad dynasty by the Abbasids in 750 A.D, a new capital called as al-Askar was established northeast of Fustat, laid out like a military camp.

Abbasids rule was interrupted when a rebellion in 869 by Ahmad ibn Tulun led to the building of another settlement called al-Qatta’i (“the Quarters”). Again it was built to the north of Fustat but closer to the river. al-Askar was demolished. This part of the city was built around the Mosque of ibn Tulun, to be discussed later. In 905, the Abbasids took back power, making Fustat the capital again and razing al-Qatta’i to the ground.

In 969 the Fatamids took the city. They once again established a new capital north of Fustat (see a pattern!?) called al-Manṣūriyyah. They would build the al-Azhar Mosque, one of the great centers of Islamic learning, to be discussed later. The city would be renamed Qāhirat al-Mu’izz (“The Vanquisher of al-Mu’izz” after the Fatamid calif al-Mu’izz li Din Allah. Fustat would remain the capital until it was burned to stop it from falling to the crusader king of Jerusalem Amalric I.

In 1169, Saladin was appointed as the new vizier of Egypt by the Fatimids. They would soon regret it as he would overthrow them and instill a new dynasty Ayyubid dynasty. Saladin is the granddaddy of modern Cairo. He would build the citadel and officially make Cairo the capital.

Not long after, in 1250, the Mamluks (slave soldier), seized control of Egypt and again Cairo was confirmed as the capital. Under their rule the city became a hub for the spice trade as well as a center of Islamic learning. They would undergo a massive building program in the capital and the city would become the largest west of China.

The city closed out the medieval era on a bad note with a massive bout of the bubonic plague (it was more like the plague hitting fifty times 1348-1517) wiping our large swaths of the city’s population. It was further demised by the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama circumnavigating the Cape of Good Hope to India, undercutting the Arab monopoly over the spice trade.

Ottoman Era

In 1517, the Ottoman Empire took advantage of the decline of the Mamlucks and took control of Egypt. A provincial backwater in their eyes, Egypt took a back seat to others. Despite this the city continued to grow and thrive yet not at the same rate as in times past. It was an important point of transit for the trade of Yemeni coffee, Indian textiles and a transit point for pilgrims attending Mecca. Cairo was the second largest city in the Empire behind Constantinople, yet this number was still far inferior to its position during the Mamluck era.

Colonial Rule

Napoleon arrived in Cairo in 1798 but was abruptly booted in 1801 by the British Army along with their Ottoman allies. The British left after expelling the french and the country fell into a civil war between the Ottomans, Mamlucks and the Albanian Mercenaries employed by the Ottomans. It was the Albanian Muhammad Ali Pasha that would come out on top and he would be the first to modernize Egypt. His grandson, Isma’il Pasha, the Khedive of Egypt, would continue to modernize the country much like his grandfather. He would usher in a a regimen of public works that would never be surpassed in the history of the city including opera houses, theaters, gas and lighting.

Unfortunately the debt racked up by the Khedive would led to his downfall with the 1882 British Invasion – an occupation meant to be temporary but ended up lasting much longer than anticipated. Under British rule the city Europeanized and its centre was moved west towards the Nile river away from the old Islamic core. New wide boulevards with grand buildings and euro styled subdivisions were conceived, Cairo capturing the attention of many foreigners. The British were not neglectful occupiers and like the Albanians invested heavily in the city.

Modern Era

The British lasted in Egypt until 1956. During the World Wars Egypt was at the forefront of the Allied middle eastern strategy (WW1) and the North Africa campain (WW2). The British withdrew after the Egyptian Revolution of 1952, where General Gamal Abdel Nasser took over the country. Nasser set fort an anti foreigner and extreme antisemitism policy kicking out the Greeks, French, Brits and especially the Jews among others. The city grew quickly yet the standard of living has dropped. In 1992 the city was hit by an earthquake leading to major housing and infrastructure issues.

In 2011 the Egyptian revolution took place and president Hosni Mubarak was toppled. The massive protests were met with military violence. The Muslim Brotherhood took power projecting soft Islamist power / religious rule. They were thwarted by the military and el-Sisi, the new President, planned to move the capital to New Cairo, tho old city clearly under-invested in. Although the Muslim Brotherhood is gone, many of their policies remain and Egypt has become rather more conservative despite the secular military’s hold on power.

Getting Around

Forget Cabs Take an Uber

Cairo is know for its infamous cabs, a notorious cartel who will surely rip you off even if you negotiate a price ahead of time (trust me Cairene cab drivers are ruthless). Instead of a dirty old vehicle you will likely get picked up in a more up to date car with a polite and friendly driver. The price is set ahead of time so no need to haggle and then still get ripped off anyway when the cab driver locks the doors on you or refuses to give you back small bills (as a general rule hoard your small bills, especially for the markets). I had a great experience with Uber and it is the safest and easiest way to get around the city!

Cairo Metro

The Cairo metro is surprisingly safe, just don’t expect to see any tourists on it! It also under serves some of the more interesting areas of the city. If you wish to take the metro, supplement it with walking or the occasional Uber ride!

Airport Chaos

Cairo International Airport

Oh us poor saps that need a Visa on arrival! The kiosk is poorly marked and there are no instruction and you will get turned back from the customs line when you realize you need to purchase this first. Customs are a mess, there are massive lineups and people push and shove to get ahead! Outside at the terminal door the chaos is just as bad. A horrible experience all round. Avoid if you can!

Sphinx International Airport

This is Giza’s airport, but is the port of entry of many travellers arriving in Cairo. It may be best if you are staying in Giza and heading direct to the Pyramids.

Where to Stay

I recommend two places to stay while in Cairo, these are Marriott and the Windsor. If you are staying in Giza there are a veriaty of discout hotels located right at the pyramyds, perfect if you wish to visit the sound and light show in the evening. Althernativly you could stay in the Garden district.

Exploring Cairo

Zamalek and As Sabtiyyah

This Upper Class island in the middle of the Nile river is home to what was the highest tower in Africa until 1971, when it was surpassed by the Hillbrow tower in South Africa.

But before visiting the luxury island of Zamalek I was in As Sabtiyyah, on the other side of the river, staying in a hotel (big mistake, pick the Windsor or the Marriott!). This area looks like it was once hip before the Arab Springs when it was lively and filled with tourists. At the ground-floor the old entrances to the hotel facing the Nile are closed off and barricaded, almost as if they needed to beef them up for bomb treats, and you have to walk in via the back where you pass through a series of metal detectors. All of the hotels once has nightclubs at the entrances but they are now shuttered.

From my balcony I did get a great view of the Cairene sunset over the Giza plateau while polishing up some beers.

From here I walked to the Marriott Cairo Marriott Hotel & Omar Khayyam Casino where I encountered a pack of wild dogs a stones trow from my hotel!

Despite how sketchy the pictures look, the neighbourhood isent so bad I walked across the river a few nights and always encountered some good people. You never know what to expect on a given night, one time I happened on a massive Coptic wedding at the same location where only a night earlier a giant carpet and fabric market was set up!

On the Nile banks of Zamalek you will find many fine 19th and 20th century colonial residences and palaces from the long gone golden age of Cairo.

The Marriot itself is magnificent construction, almost palatial… wait it actually is palatial!

Originally named the Gezirah Palace it was constructed for the Khedive Isma’il Pasha in 1869. If you recall from the history section, Isla’il had cone bankrupt and to stay afloat it was seized by creditors. It was converted to a luxury hotel in 1894. Today it is the best outdoor patio in Cairo, open to anyone and you can get good egyptian “stella beer” or a cocktail and a penut squewers deel for a cheap price!

In many ways higher end hotels in Egypt act like hostels, where travellers meet at the hotel bar for drinks or to share stories with other ex-pats. It is hard to get a drink in Cairo and hotels fill a much needed social void where the bar scene would usually stand. There are several historic bars in fact and even a bialiards room in addition to my favourite outdoor terrace.

The hotel was actually nationalized by Nazer for a time but was resold to foreigners after the state ran it into the ground.

If you are looking for food check out some of the river boats on the bank of the Nile such as the Maxim!

Rhoda Island

Cairo’s Second island contains one of my favourite attractions, the famous Nilometer as well as an important piece of Cairo’s history, the Mohamed Ali Palace (better known as the Al Manial palace).

Al Manial Palace

The latter is located on the northern part of the island and was a complex occupied by Mohamed Ali, the Albanian ruler of Egypt. A cruel man, a great warrior and a builder, Ali had some style, i got to give him that! It contains a Persian garden and an English Landscape garden in its courtyard and massive public art collection, in fact Ali’s palace functions as a display of both a sublime example of 19th century princely Egyptian architecture. You will also find the Hunting Lodge Museum, a building that belonged to the King Farouk.

The inside of the palace is finely decorated in a rather unique blend of European Art Nouveau and Rococo with Islamic Styles such as Ottoman, Persian and Moorish element

Nilometer and the Manasterly Palace

Used since Pharaonic times, the Nilometer served to mesure the height of the water during the annual flood season. This in turn would allow administrators to figure out the annual taxation of the farmers. Although the yearly flooding no longer happens due to the construction of the Aswan Dam, this tool was used by every successive conqueror. The Rhoda island Nilometer works by allowing water in by a central canal and having a column measure the height of the water. The first Nilometer on this site was constructed in 715 A.D under the Umayyad Caliphate and it was replaced in 861 under the Abbasid.

The Nilometer itself is located at the southern tip of Rhoda island and is covered by a beautiful and ornate ceiling.

A public square allows for great views of the Nile and boats moored on the riverbanks.

The Conical Nilometer is constructed beside the Manasterly Palace, a sublime structure dating from the period of Ottoman Governorship.

Much of the original governors complex was demolished to build a water treatment facility but you will still find the public halls dating from 1851. The baroque palace is known known for its piano concerts.

Coptic Cairo and Fustat

Fustat

Starving, I stuffed my face with delicious Egyptian Falafel in a shop near the Coptic Cairo metro station. This is one of the few tourist places that is easy to get to by transit, the metro Mar Girgis stop being right outside the Coptic Cairo wall!

Mosque of Amr ibn al-As

Just north of the old district in the old Fustat Mosque of Amr ibn al-As. Constructed in 642 AD, it is the first mosque in Egypt as well as the first in Africa. For such a storied structure it is fairly atypical os some of Egypt mosques in that you can visit it outside of prayer outs. Built like a military camp it was the site of the tent of the commander of the Muslim army, general Amr ibn al-As and in one corner of the mosque contains the tomb of his son, ‘Abd Allah ibn ‘Amr ibn al-‘As.

Not far from this mosque you will find the St. Mercurius monastery but unfortunately it is closed to public.

Coptic Cairo

Surrounding this christian district you will find a tall wall surrounding Coptic Cairo. It corresponds with the area of the walled Babylon fortress of the Roman Empire! To even enter the district you must pass through a metal detector and from there you can find a newsstand lined passage leading under the wall to the heart of the district itself. The streets of the district are narrow and may cause confusion when navigating so don’t hesitate to ask for help. I was actually surprised at the amount of English signage in the churches! The Copts have been the target of many bombings in the last few decades. As such Coptic Cairo fells like a city within a city, architecturally distinct from much of what you will see elsewhere in Egypt. This area is extremely safe and in a must better level of restoration than the rest of the city around it. It is believed that the The Holy Family of Christianity (Child Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Joseph) once visited the district.

Note: The Copts consider themselves the decedents of the ancient Egyptians and as you will see their cross closely resembles the ancient Egyptian Ankh.

St. George’s Shrine and Monastery

Just as you come into the district, you will find an entryway into this hidden gem of a shrine dedicated to St. George the Dragon Slayer, put to death by his Roman compatriots for refusing to renounce his christian faith. The portico building has ultra high ceilings, something I found to be pretty cool!

In the shrine you will find a holy effigy of the man himself!

Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church

Also known as The Church of Martyrs Sergius and Bacchus in The Cave church, this is one of the most beautiful churches I have seen. Although rather plan on the exterior its interior, it is a stunning on its interior.

The church is thought to have been built on the place where the Holy Family settled during their Journey to Egypt. It is dedicated to two Roman soldiers martyred by the Emperor Maximilian. Coptic Patriarchs were typically consecrated in this church until Christodulus, who moved this ceremony to the Hanging Church nearby.

The coolest part of this church is the CAVE – hence why I I highlighted it in bold! Located 10 meters below the floor it is said to be where the Holy Family rested.

Ben Ezra Synagogue

This famed synagogue is supposed to be the site of where baby Moses was found. The building built over a former church from the fourth century after it purchase by the Jewish community in 882. The building has been rebuilt several time since then and has seen Jewish luminaries such as Maimonides walked though its hallowed gates.

The current building dates from the 20th century and is primarily known for its ancient geniza cache, a storeroom containing many important historic documents now stored at Cambridge University Library. The geniza was a place to story documents containing the name of God, as these need to be preserved with honours as per the Jewish tradition. The finding of this treasure trove was not expected and there are even some of Maimonides works in there. This inside of the synagogue is richly decorated in Neo-Moorish motifs. Photography is prohibited so I borrowed a picture from the internet!

Orthodox Church of Saint George

This beautiful rotunda church is located right beside the most prominent Babylon wall remnant. Belonging to the Greek Community, its history can be traced back to the 10th century, although it was rebuilt after a 1904 fire.

Babylon Fortress Ruins

This settlement was at first constructed by the Persian Empire, hence the reference to the name name Babylon, who extended their grip on the country by building a canal to the Red Sea. The firtress walls you see today were constructed by the Romans to solidify their grip on this part of their empire. Emperor Trajan had reopened the canal to the Red Sea during this time. This fortress was used to collect tolls due to its position at the half way point between Lower and Middle Egypt, along the Nile (since then the River has changed course, hence why it is located away from the river today). During the Roman Era St. Mark spread the religion in Egypt including this fortress!

Although many sections of the red-banded masonry wall can be observed the most famous is a located near St. Georges Church. The round rotunda is a spectacular look at roman fortress construction. It is no doubt that these formidable walls were able to dissuade invaders. During the Arab conquest the fortress held out for over seven months. It is thought that Joseph worked at the fortress during his time in Babylon.

The Hanging Church

The most photographed church in Egypt, this beauty dates back to the third century although a 6th century revamp changed much of its appearance. Its name comes from the fact that it is built high, above a gatehouse to the original Babylon Fortress. Since then the church has been rebuilt several times and even forcibly converted into a mosque. In the eleventh century, the Hanging church became the residence of the Coptic patriarchate, previously in Alexandria as the city was occupied by a crusading force.

St. Barbara Church

Located in the eastern part of Coptic Cairo this is one of the oldest in the complex, dating back to the 6th century A.D. The church is closely affiliated with the nearby Coptic Museum where many of its artifacts are located.

Coptic Museum

Hosting the largest collection of Egyptian Christian artifacts in the world, including precious Coptic artwork. Unbeknownst to me it is actually a fairly large complex with over 16000 objects linking the Pharaonic and Islamic Eras, through the Christian Era.

St George’s Cemetery

At the north side of the complex, a beautiful cemetery complex exists. Although some parts are in a poor state of repair, many have been restored in recent years including a beautiful Greek section full of neoclassical tombs.

Islamic Cairo

The heart of the Mamluckian city, this is your chance to get your barter on and view the city from the eyes of its every day citizens. Be forewarned some of the area of this part of the city have seen great poverty and you will surely see many people down on their luck.

The Citadel

Saladin’s rock is built on a rocky promontory in the Muqattam Hill, an important geological feature, east of the Nile. It remained the seat of Egyptian governance until the 19th century, a testament to its important position in the hearts and minds of the Egyptian public. Although inaugurated by Saladin it has changed many times since then, notably under Mohamed Ali’s reign. The complex can roughly be divided in a southern half serving as a rulers quarters and a northern enclosure serving as a military garrison. You can visit any of the mosques on this site as they are now museums. From the visitors entrance, you will cross through the main gate Bab Al-Jabal.

The Great Banquet

Before we explore the citadel, I want to tell a story rivalling that of the Red Wedding from Game of Thrones. The citadel may have been made by Saladin’s work but what you see today was the product of Mohamed Ali Pasha. It all begins with the new Albanian ruler inviting the old Mamelukian elite for a feast at the citadel,l and into the capital they filtered. When they were all in the citadel the doors shut trapping them inside. The killing began shortly after, the citadel running red with blood. It was the end of the Mamluck ere and the Age of Ali.

Cariage Museum

The Cariage museum is located at the entrenches and houses a collection of items from Khedive Ismail until the reign of King Farouk.

Al-Gawhara Palace

Located at southern end of the complex, this palace was constructed by Muhammad Ali Pasha and is now a museum. Commissioned in 1814, it contains the throne of Mr. Ali.

Mosque of Al-Nasir Muhhamad

Constructed in 1318 by Mamluk sultan Al-Nasr Muhammad over the library and audience halls of his predecessors. It served as an important institution in the citadel broadcasting hte call to prayer to the soldiers in the northern enclosure. Unfortunately the Ottomans ransacked it when they took they took the city.

From its courtyard you will get a great view of Mohamed Ali’s mosque, the one that would eventually supplant it. The mosque is usually devoid of tourists and rather unloved which is a shame since it is remarkably well preserved looking like it would have in the 13th century. It was the British of all people who would restored the mosque, a process repeated by several Egyptian governments.

The mosque still needs some works but it hope that it can attract more visitors. In my case I was happy to get a photo devoid of tourists!

Mosque of Mohamed Ali

The big daddy of Cairene mosques, this important religious structure is the most visible of Ali Pasha’s great works. Completed in 1848, it is a work of breataking beauty and painstaking detail.

In the courtyard you will find alabaster covered archways sounding a central structure and a clocktower.

Looking up an the mosque and its two iconic minarets you will see a central dome surrounded by four others.

The stunning courtyard is filled with detail, even in the panels surrounding the alabaster structure.

The inside is even more beautiful, its domes all wonderfully decorated and the marble grave of Mohamed Ali being on display. Again white alabaster on all the walls, giving the inside a serene look. Ali may have been cruel but damn he had good taste.

Police Museum and Citadel Terrace.

Just beside the Police “Prison” Museum you will find a plaza with the best view of Islamic Cairo and the Sultan Hassan Madrassa.

Military Museum (Harem Palace)

The northern enclosure has traditionally belonged to the military, but Mohamed Ali made it the home to another one of his palaces. During the British era it was used as a hospital and now serves a military museum a fitting function. A statue of Mohamed Ali on horseback stands before the palace, he is flanked by military artillery, planes and other paraphernalia!

Al-Azab (Lower Citadel)

Al-Azab is the lower citadel, entered through the gate of Bab Al-Azab and the Al-Azab mosque. Although in a state of ruin it is due for a revival, hopefully I will be able to check it out next time I am in Cairo.

Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan, the Quanibay al Rammah and Masjed Almahmodyah

Best viewed from the citadel, this massive madrassa (Islamic school) was built in 1363 near the Bab Al-Azab gate. Like the Mosque of Al-Nasir Muhhamad in the citadel, it was founded by its patron sultan al-Nasir Hasan. Due to its monumental size it has often been used as a staging point for bombarding and assaulting the citadel. This is one of the most recognizable Islamic buildings outside the citadel.

Both the other mosques are built right beside it by the Bab Al-Azab. The Quanibay Al Rammah was built in 1504 and is featured on Egyptian Banknotes. The 16th century Masjed Almahmodyah was built to house the body of Ottoman administrator Mahmud Pasha.

Al-Azhar Park

This massive urban park was originally a garbage dumb before Aga Khan IV, a Fatimid descendent. A rich philanthropist he decided that Cairo needed a green lung and at that it did. The dump included 500 years of of Cairo’s history as such some historic parts have been preserved such as a section of 12th century Ayyubid wall and the Madrasa of Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban on the edge of the park. As part of the park you will have access to fantastic gardens, including gardens and the fantastic Studio Masr Restaurant pavilion. The best parts are the sweeping views of the Madrassas of Islamic Cairo and the citadel.

City of the Dead and the Tanner’s Church

Located near Al-Azhar Park, this ancient sprawling burial ground is one of the largest historic cemeteries in the word. The condition of the tombs ranges from irreparable decay to well maintained and colorfully painted. This is worth a look if you have time. If not you can observe it from above in the Al-Azhar Park.

The tanners church is a Coptic shrine located east of the cemetery, past a slum. This outdoor auditorium is a Grotto de Lourde type thing dedicated to St. Simon “the tanner”. The cave was dug by Coptic Garbage collectors and has been enlarged over the years. Honestly, it makes for a cool off the beaten path thing to check out!

Khan al Kallili (Fatimid Quarter)

Cairo’s central marketplace is where you want to be on a busy afternoon. The hub of much of the Cairenne action, the Khan is where you go to people watch, eat good food or get into it and do some bantering. The medieval street layout can be confusing at first but you’ll get used to it! The district is renowned for its ancient walled sections, like Coptic Cairo it is a city within a city!

The complex is filled with busy streets and many mosques of important significance. I would say that there are almost too many to count especially on the stretch surrounding Muʿizz Street a, the main street! This part of the Islamic quarter is often referred to as the Fatimid quarter as many of its most important buildings were conceived during this time period.

General Rules On Bartering: Don’t barter if you don’t intend to buy. Nobody likes to have their time wasted. Do prolong the interaction, take your time and enjoy the process. The first few times you will loose but its a bit of a game, the longer you take the better the deal usually – its a battle of wills. Do have a delicious hot or cold hibiscus or a coffee with the owner. It is customary for them to invite you to sit while you discuss business. If you are being harassed a simple La-Shukran should be repeated (No thank you!).

Zuwayla Gate, El-Khayamiya Heritage Street, Sultan Al-Ghuri Complex, Sultan Al Muayyad Mosque and Mosque of al-Salih Tala’i

Just outside the Zuwayla Gate, a monumental work of defensive architecture dating from 1092 stands a few remarkable buildings from the that form the nucleus of the Fatimid Quarter of Islamic Cairo. Located outside the southern end of the Khan Al- Khalili it is not to be missed.

Located inside the Khan, north of the Zuwayla gate, this Madrassa has expanded on the old gates of the city, building its minarets directly on top of the Zuwayla. It is considered to be the last great last great hypostyle mosque built in Cairo, dating from 1415.The madrassa was built over an old prison complex and does involve some Fatimid componants, although it was built later.

The first is El-Khayamiya, known as the Tentmakers (El-Khayamiya). The fatamids were known for their textiles specifically Khayamiya, a craft that is surprisingly alive to this day! The handicraft trade is now dying but has reinvented itself

Just east of the Zuwala gate, Sultan Al-Ghuri Complex, a mausoleum dedicated to the last Mamluck ruler. He is nor buried inside his tomb as his body was not recovered after he was killed in battle. The massive building straddles both sides of the road in order to create a market place street! This is an underrated place to see!

This last building, Mosque of al-Salih Tala’i, is a beautiful mosque built rather plainly in a simple Persian Style. It dates from the late Fatimid Era and was commissioned in 1160.

Al-Azhar Mosque

Located half way between the two great gates, Al Azhar is the second oldest university in the world after Fez, Morocco. It was established in 972. originally run as a mosque school it was nationalized and officially declared a university after the Egyptian Revolution. Every successive ruler of the city has made additions to the building including the stunning courtyard built by the Fatimids and the imposing Gate of the Berbers built by the Ottomans. The university was the site of a bloody showdown between Napoleonic France and Egyptian Rebels that drew much blood and turmoil. Napoleon was actually trying to come to a peaceful conclusion and it backfired so he went scorched earth! After the murder of Jean Baptiste Kléber, the doors of the mosque were bolted shut. The institution would begin its long journey to secularization under Mohamed Ali.

Al Hussain Mosque

One of the many mosques in Islamic Cairo, it is built right next to Al-Azhar. The 12th century Fatimid construction is believed to be one of the holiest places in Egypt to the Shia, as they believe that Hussain’s head is buried here.

Qalawun Complex and the Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Barquq

This Mosque, hospital, mausoleam and Madrassa complex dating from the 13th century is one of the most important Mamluck monuments in Cairo. This is a massive operation in both scope and size.

Located oposite of Qalawun Barquq was an important training center for all fout of the islamic schools of thaught and was constructed during the Mamluck Era.

Beshtak Palace

One of the many beautiful palaces of the Khan Al Kahalili, it was home to the Prince Beshtak during the Mamluck Period. Its name makes reference to the previous Fatimid palaces that once stood here.

Muʿizz Street and the Aqmar Mosque (Al-Muizz li-Din Allah al-Fatimi Street)

The main commercial artery of the Khan, Muʿizz Street is buzzing with life. It is home to many mosques (as seen previously) and Fatimid palaces. This is where you will find most of the souq’s (markets). I just wanted to mention the Aqmar Mosque for its beautiful facade (it is the fist pic in the slideshow).

Beit Al Sehaim

This historic 17th century housing complex was completed is a sublime example of restored Islamic architecture.

Bab Al Fatun and Bab Nazer

The northern gate of Cairo, Bab Al Fatun is an 11th century masterpiece. The gate was constructed in 1087 and looks pretty beautiful surrounded by its palms. Nearby to the east you will find the less impressive Nazer gate.

In front of this gate inside the Khan you will find a large peaceful square that will give you a respite from the crowded alleyways.

Outside the walls I notice a banana cart, something I had never seen before and a man on a bicycle balancing a massive basket of food for sale on his head!

Al Hakim Mosque

Located within the gate, but with its minarets built into the Khan wall wall the Al Hakim Mosque stands out. The 10th century Fatimid construction saw action later in its life as a prison for Franks (crusaders)

El Sakirini Palace

This 20th century palace now stands tall in the heart of a busy Cairenne roundabout.

Ibn Tulun Mosque and the Gayer Anderson Museum

Both these iconic Caireen landmarks are built right next to each other and were featured prominently in the 1977 Bond move “The Spy Who Loved Me”. If you could only visit one mosque in Cairo, make it this one! Built in 884 it is the oldest mosque in Egypt as well as the rest of Africa. It is the only remainder of the Tuloid Arab Dynasty of Turkic ruler Ahmad ibn Tulun, that briefly supplanted the Abbasyds in Cairo. Its spiral minaret makes me think of something that you would find at Sammara in Irack.

Just beside it you will find find the Gayer-Anderson museum, an underrated colonial era exhibition space. The beautiful building was host to a fight seen on its roof during “The Spy Who Loved Me”.

Museum of Islamic Art

Located on the edge of Islamic Cairo and the Downtown Cairo, this collection is one of the most impressive of its kind in the world. The building has a beautiful design that is almost half persion and half Moorish in style. Unfortunately much of the collection was damaged in a 2014 bombing and restoration will be required.

Garden City

This palmed line affluent residential district on the bank of the Nile in downtown Cairo has long been a favourite of embassies, hotels, ex-pat foreigners and well to do Egyptians. An oasis in a city of chaos the safe neighbourhood was rocked during the Arab Springs due to the location of Tahrir Square, where thuggish protesters held the residents hostage by setting up blockades. Only time will tell if this area will continue to hold its pristine position, although from the look of things at the time of my visit it seems like it has.

Heliopolis

Cairo’s first planned European suburb, was undertaken by Belgian entrepreneur called Baron Empain, operator of the Cairo Electric Railways and Heliopolis Oases Company. Located not far from the ancient site of Heliopolis north-west of Cairo it was to be a train suburb of the city (garden city). The district became know for its distinct architecture, named the Heliopolis style. It is a revivalist style combining eastern and western styles such as neoclassical and Moorish into an interesting mix. The luxurious multinational suburb includes landmark buildings such as the Heliopolis Palace, originally a grand hotel opened in 1910, now a a presidential palace. Other important buildings and institution include St .Marks Coptic Cathedral, Sultan Hussein Kamel’s home (rule of Egypt 1914-1917), Sultana Malak Palace, the Heliopolis War Cemetery, the Heliopolis Sporting Club and the magnificent Baron Empelain Palace (also known as the Hindu Palace). This building was constructed in 1911 and designed by the Frenchman Alexander Marcel. Built in an exotic oriental style it is modelled after Hindu and Buddhist temples of the east such as the one in Angkor Wat. The exterior details are amazing but so too is the interior spiral staircase in located the tower.

Unfortunately the old gardens that once characterized the suburb are long gone, paved over after Nazer’s revolution and Luna park, once the first Amusement park in Africa is long gone yet there is still much to see and due to its proximity to the airport can be worthwhile. A lone obelisk is all that remains of the old Egyptian city of Heliopolis for those interested!

Downtown and Midan Tahrir

Whereas Memphis was the de-facto capital of old Egypt, Coptic Cairo the heart of the early medieval era and Islamic Cairo and the center of Mamluckian Cairo. The downtown core represents a shifting center of urban gravity experience by the city during the Colonial Era. Located closer to the Nile River than the old Islamic Cairo, the downtown is known for its grand European boulevards and cafe’s. It was a place where foreigners called home and the well heeled Egyptian middle class discussed politics and the state of their country. The light has dimmed on this secular intellectual heyday but it may yet come back.

Tahrir Square

The famous square at the hear of the Arab Springs is located just due south of the famed Egyptian Museum. The roundabout its best known for its role in the 2011 Egyptian Revolution where tens of thousands filled the street in protest.

Egyptian Museum

A striking monument to the golden age of archaeology, the old Egyptian Museum (the real Egyptian Museum to me), superseded a previous collection at the citadel. The stunning 1902 building is one of the most iconic in Cairo and should be on any itinerary, even after the completion of the new museum in Giza.

In front of the museum you will find a large plaza stretching to Tarhir Square.

The inside of the museum, you will be treated to a show! The building consists of an east and west wing, culminating in an stunning central hall surrounded by statues of pharaohs along with various iconic artefects. The ground floor is linked by staircases to a second story gallery. In the garden next to the museum you will find a memorial to a gamut of famous gynecologists – a Hall of Fame of sorts. At its heart is a monument to Auguste Mariette, the Egyptian Department of Antiquities. He is flanked by 24 busts of the following egyptologists: François Chabas, Johannes Dümichen, Conradus Leemans, Charles Wycliffe Goodwin, Emmanuel de Rougé, Samuel Birch, Edward Hincks, Luigi Vassalli, Émile Brugsch, Karl Richard Lepsius, Théodule Devéria, Vladimir Golenishchev, Ippolito Rosellini, Labib Habachi, Sami Gabra, Selim Hassan, Ahmed Kamal, Zakaria Goneim, Jean-François Champollion, Amedeo Peyron, Willem Pleyte, Gaston Maspero, Peter le Page Renouf and Kazimierz Michałowski.

You will notice from the names are a mix of domestic Egyptians and internationals such as French, Egyptian, Italian, Russian, Polish, Dutch and Germans. Egyptology was really a world renowned business as I witnessed at the Polish Mission in Luxor, as I did not expect Poland to have had a role in the discovory of so many antiquities.

Some of my favourite items from my trip were on display here. This includes the reconstructed facial bust of Hatshepsut, taken from her temple at Luxor. She usurped the throne from her stepson Thutmose III, leading to him smashing her effigies – hence this is a rare piece.

As well is this funny engraving!

Or this hall of Sphynxes!

Or this engraving of daily life in Egypt!

Or all of these wooden sacrofigi!

Or these stone Sacrofigi!

Or this adorable statue of Hathor the cow goddess!

Or all of these mummies! Cool fact Tutenkamon items can be found here but they have now been moved to the new Egyptian Museum in Giza.

Another cool fact there were once so many of these mummies in the museum that they were stored in hallways and were a fire hazard!

I mean theres also anubis my Jackal god!

And this weirdly shaped motherfucker! It is Pharaoh Akhenaton (reigned 1353–36 BC), worshiper of his own new god Aton at Amarna – ya he was reeeeeaaaaaallllll popular (sarc). 😉

Another intresting item is that of high priest kapper Kaaper or Ka’aper from the Fifth Dynasty.

Here are a few more items like these funerary urns.

And this Nubian Pharoe, from the Nubian Dynasty of kings.

Annnnd a last one I promise!

Talaat Harb Square, Talaat Harb Street, Qasr El Nil Street and Opera Square (Café Riche.)

Connecting Tarhir Square to Talaat Square is Talaat Harb Street and leading away from it Qasr El Nil street. This area is generally considered to be the heart of European Cairo, come to the best restorants and cafe’s. In particular Qasr El Nil street is home to much of Cairo’s nightlife and shopping. The street features masterpieces of beau art and morrish architecture. The Talaat midan (roundabout) is home to many of the city’s old prized institutions including Groppi (a chocolateer), Egyptian Diplomatic Club and the famous Café Riche. The later is a greekko-french shop from 1908 that has become a famed cairene institution during Egypts formative years as a true nation. The Cafe was a hangout for some of Egypts most famous/infamous intellectuals and revolutionaries, a plac e where history was made during the 20th century. The cafe is where King Farouk saw his second wife, it is where Egypt’s last Coptic Prime Minister, Youssef Wahba Pacha was assasinated and where several members of the resistance during the 1919 revolution met. Patrons included the political novelist Naguib Mahfouz and the then-future president Gamal Abdel Nasser.

There is little left of old opera square but a horse-backed statue of what I think was Ibrahim Pasha. It iused to be home to the Khedivial Opera House, the first Opera house in Afriaca be fore it caught fire.

Abdeen Palace

A former royal palace of the Egyptian royalty, Abdeen is now the principle office of the president of Egypt.

It operates today as a museum with the former living quarters of the royal family on the upper floors, reserved for visiting foreign dignitaries. The rest of the palace is a museum complex including the Silver Museum, the Arms Museum, the Royal Family Museum,Historical Documents Museum and the Presidential Gifts Museum. The Historical Documents Museum contains the Ottoman decree that established the rule of Muhammad Ali and his family, and a certificate for the Order of the Iron Crown, from the short-lived South American Kingdom of Araucanía and Patagonia.

The Windsor

This British Colonial hotel – the Windsor – is know for its links to the golden age of travel. Its colonial era barrel bar is one of the most famous (infamous?) watering holes in the middle east! A stop at the bar is a must even if you are not staying here! Unfortunately shoddy construction work nearby damaged the hotel. Hopefully repairs will be completed soon so that the hotel may be back in business!

Giza

The famous Giza Necropolis, on the west bank of the Nile River, is the reason why so many visit the city of Cairo. It’s iconic three pyramids have inspired awe in travelers since antiquity and since the Giza plateau in itself is a unique experience I have dedicated an entire post to it. Read it here!

Day Trips

Memphis

The ruins of the great city of Memphis are but a small set of ruins in the town Mit-Rahineh, south of cairo. Memphis should be visited in conjunction with nearby Saqqara.

Saqqara (Sakkara)

The Saqqara Necropolis is a lesson in history. Located south of Cairo, near old Memphis (it is its necropolis after all) it can be done in conjunction with the former. This mortuary tomb is famed for the Djoser pyramyd a mudbrick step pyramyd and is the ancestor to the smooth triangular pyramyds of the later years. There are plenty of other Mastaba styled tombs on site and pyramyds all along the desert ridge going up to Cairo, so enjoy!

PS: Many of the items found at Saqquara are now displayed at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo

Birqash Camel Market

Located in a village 35km south-west of Cairo, this famed camel market is not for the faint of heart (animal lovers beware!). I still recomend the experience as an important cultural insight into local life. The camels come from West Sudan and are sold thought Egypt before finally making here. This is the end of the line for many and much of the heard is in rough shape. Most of the camels are severly beaten, starving and some even die on site. Most are sold for meat at this point.

The market runs from everyday but the best times to attend are from 7-10am!

Conclusion

You may be intimidated by such a large and busy center but in the end Cairo has its own serene aura in the middle of it all. From Al Azhar Park, the green lung of the city, you will be to observe one of the greatest cities in Islam in action, away from the crowds. From the Nile river you can observe the beauty of the sunsets, while drinking a Saqquara Gold. I would like to think that Nile sunsets are the most magical in the world. Finally the pyramids will fill you with a sense of wonder, much like they have over millennia. Yet my favorite part of Cairo is one of the simplest, the Nilometer a simple device – but a column measuring the water levels of the Nile – for a purpose as old as time, taxation! From the end of the island where the device is located, a view of the majestic river is available that will make you fall in love with Egypt. All this to say I love Cairo and so should you!