Cádiz – La Havana de España
My favorite Spanish city, just happens to be, one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Western Europe. Although impoverished in comparison with its neighbors, Cadiz radiates a certain charm. For those that can look past decaying street fronts and fading paint, Cadiz has a lot of to offer. This ancient city happens to be the Old World blueprint for the city of Havana, Cuba prompting the filming of a Bond film (Die Another Day) as a model for the city!
Geography
Oddly enough, Cadiz is the second biggest city in its commune, after Jerez, something that surprised me due to the historical importance of the provincial capital. Unfortunately Cadiz’s population has long been in decline, a trend opposite to most urban center in Spain and even in the region where many of the other cities seem to be increasing in population. Part of this unfortunate demographic change is due to the geography of the city.
Cadiz is a historic city built on a narrow peninsula jutting into the sea only connected to the mainland by a thin sandbar and two bridges. With little land to develop, and historic structures to protect, the city has seen a small exodus. Unfortunately the city seem to be in rough condition, with a certain amount of decay. As such it is not as flashy as other Spanish cities but I would say that it is even more impressive than many of its rivals due to the preservation of the old town core.
At the north end of the peninsula, you will find a circular bulkhead that contains the majority of the old city, while in the south you will find a long stretch of land containing the apartment buildings and high rises that make up the modern city. A beaches exists on the north end but a continuous stretch on the south end longing along the sandbar. The southern end is also host to many of the city’s industrial port installation, both on the mainland and on the peninsula sides.
A Small Subnote
When I first came into the city from Seville, I had surprised at the amount of industrial lands you pass before hitting the city. I had hitched a ride by car with another traveller in my hostel and so I took the highway in. When you cross over from the mainland you have to pass wide swaths of industrial port land on the mainland side, you then take a massive bridge over the bay before coming up on a large port area and then the massive cruise hub, finally coming up on a gentile seaside promenade showcasing the old town. This shows just how important the sea still is to the city. If you happen to take the train in you will have I different experience. In this case I took the train to Jerez de La Frontera, you instead take the route along the Cadiz Peninsula, stopping in suburban stations along the way bur when you pass the city you will enter the marshland around the Sendero Salina Dolores Hiking area. From here you will get a view of the productive flood plains of the Bay of Cadiz, a heavily farmed area with a mix of sandy and marshy soils with many river bisecting the landscape.
Transportation
On the Cadiz peninsula, there are two connections to the outside world. The first is the ferry terminal and the second is the train station. Both are located at the base of the old town, on the eastern edge of the bulkhead, before the peninsula narrows.
Accommodation
I don’t usually promote specific hostels but Casa Caracol is an unbelievably well run place to stay. With nightly meals and activities, a lively rooftop terrace, comfortable bedrooms as well as a helpful staff, you can’t go wrong staying here!
A Brief History
During antiquity this famed peninsula was a group of islands island, prized for its deep harbor in the bay of Cadiz. Under Roman rule an aqueduct crossed open sea to service the city. The geography of the bay has changed very much since then. The city hit its peak during antiquity and again during the era of colonial Spain.
Antiquity
Founded in 1104 B.C. by the Phoenicians as a city by the name of Gadir, Cadiz is considered to be the oldest city still in existence in Western Europe. The Phoenicians were a seafaring people hailing from modern day Lebanon, in this case the city of Tyre, and they colonized most of the best harbors in the Mediterranean. The city was then used as a base for Phoenician explorers such as Himilco and Hanno to explore the coasts of Africa, Spain and France. They also established a temple to Melqart, known as the Tyrian Hercules in Greek and Roman tradition and it it believed that the pillars of this temple are the basis for the myth of the Pillars of Hercules.
With the fall of Tyre and the rest of Phoenicia, the city passed to the control of Carthage, the largest of the colonies. It was brought to heel though an expedition launched by Hamilcar Barca. It is from Cadiz that his son, Hannibal Barca, launched his elephant backed expedition that famously crossed the alps to terrorize Roman Italy during the Second Punic War. Before he left, he sacrificed to Melqart/Heracles. His campaign was so successful that Rome was almost brought to its knees. Alas for the Barca family, Carthage lost the Punic Wars and the city was taken by Rome in 206B.C under Scipio Africanus, one of Rome’s Greatest Generals.
The city flourished under Roman rule, and the city went by the name Gades. Legend has it that young Julius Caesar saw a statue of Alexander the Great while visiting the city and was made sad that “he himself, though the same age, had still achieved nothing memorable”. The city was known as the westernmost of the empire and was renowned for its wealth and infamous Gaditan dancing girls.
Barbarian and Arab Conquest
In 410 A.D the barbarian Visigoths destroyed the city. It was briefly reconquered by the Byzantine Empire (Eastern Rome) in 551 only to fall again to the Visigoths in 572. Between 711 and 1262, the city was called Qādis and it belonged to the Moors, an Arabic Muslim people that had swept though North Africa and into Spain. A famous Muslim legend of Cadiz is that a magic idol blocked the straights of Gibraltar by way of altering currents and winds. Abd-al-Mumin, the founder of the Almohad dynasty that would unite the Moors into a Kingdom, was rumored to have destroyed the idol once again allowing ships to pass.
Kingdom of Castile and Spanish Empire
Alphonso X of Castile, a christian kingdom based in northern Spain conquered the city in 1262. It would not rise to prominence again until the Age of Exploration, when it would become one of the budding ports of the Empire. In 1493, Christopher Columbus sailed from the city into the New World, his second such expedition. His first voyage took place in Palos de la Frontera, near the city of Huelva. Columbus would later depart from the city again during his Fourth Voyage. At the start of the Age of Exploration Seville, the capital city of Andalusia, was the monopoly port of Spanish goods from the New World. With the silting of the Guadalquivir restrictions were later loosened and Cadiz managed to become the leading commercial center for goods from the New World and the base for the Spanish treasure fleet. This wealth attracted the eye of many greedy enemies and the port was often raided by the Barbary Corsairs, Muslim pirates from North Africa. In 1587, Francis Drake led an English raid on the city destroying many ships and delaying the sailing of the famous Spanish Armada by a year, the event was dubbed ‘The Singeing of the King of Spain’s Beard’. In 1596, the city was captured and held for a month by the English (and their Dutch allies) and was burned to the ground after the Spanish refused to pay a ransom. Many other English raids ensued over the next century. The city was active during the Napoleonic Wars, being one of the few to hold out against Napoleon. Later during the war it was cordoned off by the English. The liberal Spanish Constitution of 1812 was declared in Cadiz.
While the city had a tumultuous 16th and 17th century, the town you see today dates mostly from the 18th century when, as mentioned above, the port of trade moved permanently from Seville to Cadiz.
The Modern Era
The Age of Exploration is long gone and both time and neglect have weathered the city. My 2018 visit was right after a strong Atlantic ocean storm had heavily damaged the city. Despite this setback you could tell that much work was going into restoring the old city. With the charm I experienced during my visit, I think it is only a matter of time before the city is once again one of the premier cities of the Iberian peninsula.
What to do in Cadiz?
There is a wealth of things to do in Cadiz, here are but a few of them.
Explore the Fortifications of Cadiz!
Due to the strategic importance of the bay of Cadiz, the city has often been the target of malevolent intention, as such fine things often do. The old town of Cadiz is surrounded by sea facing fortifications on three sides and a set of sturdy wall from the landward side. Lets explore a few of these sturdy points of interest.
Walk the Vista del Mar to the Castillo de San Sebastian
The first place I had the chance to set foot in, Castillo de San Sebastian was at the epicenter of the 2018 storm surge. Located on the north-western end of the Cadiz peninsula, this 18th century castle on an island is connected to the mainland by way of a stone walkway. It is the first line of defence for the entire northern end of the city. It happens to be the point further into the Atlantic and was ravaged by the storm of 2018. The walkway had collapsed at several spots and the castle was closed for tours.
As of 2020, the walkway has been reconstructed and is safe for use!
Undeterred, I walked around the collapsed sections of walkway and made my way to the fort. According to classical sources a temple to the Greek titan Kronos stood here in antiquity and in 1457 a chapel was erected by a Venetian Boat crew recovering from a bout of the plague. The complex consists of two parts the menacing outer castle and a larger castle complex separated by way of a moat behind it. It is this are a that you will find a lighthouse dating from 1908, only the second electrically powered lighthouse in Spain. The 41m tall structure was built near where a Moorish era watchtower once stood. This area is now a public events space.
Back at the Puerta de la Caleta, the gate allowing access to the fort walkway you will find a very nice restaurant, the Juanito Villar Peña Flamenca along with the Busto de Paco Alba, a strange sculpture that is supposed to be a bust of the famous artist!
At the complex gate was one of my favorite signs of all time, forbidden to enter shirtless! Something I found to be ridiculous, its a fort, not a church, after all!
Castillo de Santa Catalina
On the opposite side of the Castillo de San Sebastian, past the small bay that makes up the La Caleta beach, you will find Castillo de Santa Catalina. Built after the Anglo-Dutch raid on the city, the star shaped citadel has played an integral role in the defense of the city. The well preserved building is now host to a small art exhibit and the well preserved interior/parade grounds is worth taking the time to explore.
Catch a concert at the Baluarte de la Candelaria (The Sea Wall)
One of the last bastion from the old sea wall of Cadiz, the triangular shaped 17th century Baluarte de la Candelaria is now a park and concert venue.
Explore the Many Other Cadiz Bay Castles
The bay of Cadiz is home to many small castles, these include the ruined Castillo de San Lorenzo del Puntal, Fort Matagorda and Fuerte de San Luis.
I would only recommend one of these and that is the Fort Matagorda as it has a stunning chapel. This fort, saw action during the Napoleonic Wars and is located on the mainland side of the city, in the industrial area and may be hard to access for the average tourist, yet is is worth it.
Walk along the City Walls
At the southern end of the city, facing the modern “New Town”, you will find Las Puertas de Tierra, the landward walls. Constructed during the 16th century, these stand pretty much as they did during the time of their construction. You may notice that modern lanes of traffic
Have a Swim at the Beach
There are two great beach area’s in Cadiz, La Caleta and Playa de la Victoria.
La Caleta
Located at the northern end of the old town, between Castillo de San Sebastian and Santa Catalina, La Caleta is my favorite beach in Cadiz. Although the beach is of a small area than Playa de la Victoria, it is located near the nightlife and offers a great view of the fortifications mentioned above. On the beach you will find an circular, oriental styled, pavilion host to the Underwater Archaeology Center Headquarters. The waters are warm, and the sand easy on the feet. I went swimming here every day after walking around all day.
Playa de la Victoria
Located along the south-western side of the peninsula, starting outside of the old town gates, where the new town begins this beach fronts the antic Ocean for the length of the Cadiz peninsula. This is a scenic natural area but lacks the intimate charm of La Caleta. On the other hand from this beach you get a great view of the old town in the distance, as well as the iconic domed cathedral.
Walk Along the Cadiz Seafront Promenades
Having first visited Castillo San Sebastian, I set my sights on walking along the westward Atlantic shore of the Old Town. This vantage point will allow you a fantastic view of the cathedral rising above the colorful buildings of the old town.
The Pathway traces the old seawall and is lined with beautiful street lamps. I would be wary of parking along this promenade. There are several areas that have poor signage and someone from my hostel had his car towed. I had to walk with him to the police station so we could figure out where the impound lot was… pour bastard!
Explore the Old Town
The old city of Cadiz is one of the most densely populated in Europe, walking though it feels like walking though a maze of narrow streets while emerging in the occasional miniature plaza. There is lots to do in this part of the city.
It can roughly be divided in three districts, Santa María in the south, El Pópulo in the center and Centro/La Viña at the northern end of the old town north.
Santa María District
This district is composed of the land south of the San Juan de Dios Plaza and North of the land gate. Most hostels and budget accommodations can be found in this part of the city.
Pass Through the Land Gate Like in the Good Old Days
As mentioned in the fortifications section, the land gate is the pinciple attraction in this part of the city. The Tower of the Earth Doors, topping the entry gate can serve as an easy reference point when trying to locate yourself around the neighbourhood. Today the moat is now used as a public space for sports. The inside of this tower now serves as an open air history exhibit with signs conveying historical information about the city.
Visit the Santo Domingo Convent
This Dominican hospice/church is dedicated to the Virgin of the Rosary, the patron saint of Cadiz. Constructed in 1655, the building is located near the cruise port (On Sopranis street) and is easily recognizable by its high stone tower. The location was once a dunghill and was chosen as a location as it believed to be where the Anglo-Dutch assailants throw out the image of the Virgin in 1596.
Stop by a Tobacco Factory
Just beside the Dominigo Convent, again on Sopranis street, you will find an old tobacco factory, a building easilly distinguishable due to its large smokestack, palms and tiled roof. This is one of the best examples of 19th century industrial architecture in the city.
El Pópulo District
Stretching from the Cathedral to City Hall, this district north of Santa Maria is delineated by the Arco de los Blanco to the south-west, the cathedral to the north-west and the San Juan de Dios Plaza to the east. This is the oldest part of the old town and the most interesting part of the city.
Experience the Glories of Ancient Rome while visiting the Arco de los Blanco and the Roman Theater.
While on my walk along the seafront promenade, I came across a fenced off ruin near the cathedral. Following the fence around to a side alley I came across an arched wall section, the Arco de los Blaco. The archway is the ruins of a roman city walls and the through a vaulted passageway you will gain access to the fenced off ruins, the old theater of Gades. The arch takes its name from Felipe Blanco, a Spanish merchant that restored the passageway/wall and built a chapel (now demolished) above it.
The partially excavated theater itself is a fine ruin dating from 1st century B.C and could house 10 000 spectators at its peak, making it one of the largest in the Roman Empire at the time. Built in the shadow of today’s cathedral, the building was abandoned by the 4th century A.D and a 13th century fortress was built over top (no longer exists).
Pay Homage to Spanish Religious Heritage at the Cathedral and the Casa de la Contaduría
Now here is a building that is unsure of what style it is, alternating between Neoclassical and Baroque architecture in a way that strangely works. The inside of the cathedral was planned to be in Roccoco stle but were completed in the neoclassical. The contrast is palpable on the building facade. often referred too as the “new” cathedral of Santa Cruz, it replaced an earlier structure destroyed during the Anglo-Dutch occupation of the city. The building you see today dates from 1722, when construction began on the domed beauty. The construction lasted over 100 years and was spurred by the fact that Cadiz took over from Seville’s trade and was considered to be in need of a grander church.
In the crypt you will find the graves of Manuel de Falla and José María Pemán, both residents of the city. The real treat is the view from top of the building, up the Levante Tower, where you will be given a panorama of the old town.
Tucked in past a plaza on the side of he cathedral is the Casa de la Contaduría, a museaum dedicated to the history of the church.
Stop off Plaza San Juan de Dios, Home of City Hall
The crown Jewel of Cadiz, this plaza is the first part of the old town that cruise port visitors will see upon entry to the city. The square revolves around the palm lined neoclassical city hall, called the Ayuntamiento. There are some great restaurants here and I spent an afternoon here gorging on seafood and fine wine, beer and assorted spirits!
The plaza itself dates from the 15th century and was expanded on as the city walls were demolished. You will find a statue of Segismundo Moret, a spanish prime minister from Cadiz. The city hall was completed in two stages, the first in 1799 and the second in 1861. The flag of the Andalusia was flown for the first time here in 1936.
Centro/La Viña District
North of the Pópulo district is a large swath of area referred to as Centro, this part of the city contains a varied set of attractions.
Get a Birds Eye View from Torre Tavira
One of two excellent viewpoints of the city (the other being the Cathedral), the Torre Tavira is a 18th century tower with panoramic view of the old town.
Do Some Shopping at the Plaza de Las Flores and the Mercado Central
One of the most popular public places in town is the Plaza de Las Flores a flower market fronted by a 1930’s post office. Around the corner you will find the central market, a building with a pretty outer shell/wall and an uggly modern inside. The open air market sells fresh products of all kinds.
Get Napoleonic at the Museo de las Cortes de Cádiz
This small museum dedicated to the Napoleonic wars and the role played by Cadiz in the conflict. This is a worthy addition for city completists.
Revisit the City’s Phoenician Past at the Cadiz Museum
This local history museum comes highly recommended, make sure to stop off at the Phoenicien section where you will find several hand crafted sarcophagus from Sidon as well as statuets of Melquart.
Check out the Gran Teatro Falla
This early 19th century building is home to the Carnival of Cádiz.
Explore the Plaza de San Antonio
One of the larger public squares in Cadiz, it is located further out from the older urban core. The public space is built around the church of San Antonio and was originally conceived as a shrine to the above on the outskirts of the city.
Bring Out your artistic side at the Oratorio de la Santa Cueva
This oratory consisting of two 1730’s chapels is a vault packed to the brim with priceless art.
Relax and Unwind at Genovés Park
One of the largest public spaces in Cadiz, this picturesque nature park is located on the north side of the city, not far from Castillo de Santa Catalina. The plant filled area is home to an artificial lake with rock cliffs. An elevated platform offers a view of the sea.
Conclusion
I did not expect Cadiz to lure me in the way it did, but I quickly succumbed to its rustic charms. One look at the seaside town and I was taken aback. It may be in a state of decay but offers more genuine charm and authenticity than the average European city. One could almost say that it exudes it! That being said, the real magic of Cadiz for me is in its people, in my experience they will make you feel at home.
