Budva, Bar, Ulcinj & the Montenegrin Coast
This blog post covers the coastal road from Budva to Ulcinj, near the Albanian border. This section of coastline is absolutely spectacular, combining historic old towns, jagged cliffs and winding roads. It is well worth renting a car and stopping off along the way.
Although the journey is only 65 kilometers in length, the single lane coastal road is winding and takes a long time to navigate. That’s okay, there is no rush! There are plenty of good beaches, lookout points, forts and old religious structures to stop in on along the way. Take some time, relax and when you are ready get back on the road.
For other section of the Montenegrin coast please consult the following posts:
Table of Contents
The Journey
The map below illustrates the journey from Budva to Ulcinj. The following stops were made along the way:
- Budva – 0 km
- Sveti Stefan – 10 km
- Petrovac – 18 km
- Bar/Stari Bar – 53 km
- Ulcinj – 65 km
Budva (0 km)
You will start your journey in Budva on the party coastline of the Adriatic Sea. This is the most visited town in Montenegro. Located on a small patch of land between the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic, Budva is located a half hour bus ride to Kotor, the historic port of Montenegro. To the south lies Bar, the commercial shipping hub. If the pulsing club music and wild nightlife doesn’t draw you in maybe the gorgeous old town will.
A Brief History:
One of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic Sea, archeological evidence points to a founding in 500BC. Legend has it that Cadmus [Kadmos], the legendary founder of the ancient city of Thebes in Boeotia (Greece), established this settlement after his exile from Thebes. Evidence indicates the possibility of an earlier Illyrian settlement prior to the arrival of the Greeks.
In the second century B.C it became part of the Roman Empire. During the partition of the empire into two pieces, Eastern and Western. Budva would be located on the border between both giving the town some degree of importance. During the Byzantine period (Eastern Roman Empire), the city was populated by Slavic tribes fleeing south, it would then become an autonomous Serbian vassal of the Byzantine state called Duklja. The region revolted several times and even succeeded in having periods of autonomy. Eventually Dukja was incorporated in the Serbian Empire.
In 1420 the Venetians took over the administration of the city, incorporating it in their province of Albania Veneta. This period is seen as an important one for the city’s urban development. The Ottoman Empire was expanding quickly into the Balkans and Venice was doing it’s best to stem the tide by building fortifications throughout the region. During this time, the imposing sea walls were constructed along with the land fortifications. The rule of Venice also saw the erection of many civilian structures in the older part of the city as such the majority of the Old Town (as seen today) dates from this period. Venice fell to Austria in 1797 and the city became part of the Habsburg Empire (Austria). This marks the beginning of an unstable period in history where the city changed hands many times. At first it fell to Montenegrin Forces in 1806, then to France in 1807, returning back to Montenegro in 1813 and finally being re-integrated into the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1814. Although the coastline of Montenegro had been subjugated, the proud Montenegrin people continued to resist in the highlands around Cetinje as they always have. The city would not be ruled by Slavs again until the end of First World War when it was liberated by Serbian troops and incorporated into Yugoslavia.
In 1941, during the Second World War, the city was invaded by Mussolini and his Fascist Italian State but by 1944 the tide of the war had changed. Montenegro was taken by the partisans and became a socialist republic of Yugoslavia. The country was hit by a devastating earthquake in 1979 and part of the Old Town had to be rebuilt. In 2006, when along with the rest of Montenegro, it became part of an independent country. As part of this new country it became the leading center of tourism. The resort remains popular with other Slavs and it receives the benefit of a strong contingent of Russian and Serb tourists.
Things to do:
Firstly, you should explore the Old Town. Located on a rocky peninsular outcropping, with a large defensive sea wall, this small compact city would look menacing to an invader. Enter the town from the Old City gate (north), and wander down Njegoševa Street, the main thoroughfare. The old town is quite small and can be seen fairly quickly. This being said Old Budva is beautiful and will offer a great respite to a weary backpacker.
While in the Old Town, do make the time to visit St. John’s Church (renamed St. Ivan’s). Built in the 15th century, it features a distinctive bell tower, added in 1867. Nearby you can see a pretty orthodox shrine called the Holy Trinity Church. It may be small but it sports an ornate interior. Other churches worth taking a look at are those of St-Sava and Santa Maria. In the center of the Old Town you can find the ruins of a old Roman villa and to its west you can find the old citadel. You should take the time to walk around its massive stone walls, this stronghold protected the city from maritime and land threats alike and are quite impressive.
When you leave the Old Town, head to the old town beach. Although crowded at peak times, you won’t find many beaches in such close proximity to ancient stone walls. Additionally, you will find a beach bar. If you continue on this rocky section of coastline you will see a boardwalk that will take you to the famous Budva ballet dancer statue as well as an additional beach. This beach is slightly less crowded. On the south side of the city just outside the town walls, you can find the marina. It has great seafood restaurants and offers boat rides to nearby Sveti Nikola island. Sitting in the Bay of Budva, the large island features a Captain Morgan branded bar, beaches and wild deer.
The New Town is located just outside the Old Town and contains the party haunts of the city, trouble being just a few blocks away. The buildings are modern construction with nothing of note. Casinos and clubs line the streets along with some fast food joints. While the old town is crowded during the day it mostly empties out at night, when the action moves to the new town. When returning back to old town after a night of partying, one can admire the tasteful up-lighting that has been used to turn the sleepy old town walls into a glowing gem.
As for accommodation in Budva, I stayed at a Freedom Hostel Budva and would not recommend anywhere else. This cozy stone dwelling is located right inside the old town walls. It offers a courtyard that is a great place for social gatherings and beds at a reasonable price. There are plenty of little pubs and eateries in the Old Town, all within walking distance. As a matter of fact, the old town is so small that a group of us were out partying and came across my dad (who was traveling with me at the time). He was walking back from a pub and our rowdy continually group shouted him name which bounced around the Old City walls until he had no choice but to come join us.
Sveti Stefan (10 km)
Leave Budva by way of the winding E80 roadway up the mountain range just south of the town. From here you will have a panoramic view of the bay. We stopped for breakfast at a restaurant located on a high point overlooking Sveti Stefan. One of the most iconic sights in Montenegro, it consists of a cozy stone Old Town on an island connected by a thin man-made sandbar. The property has recently been privatized, turned into a villa and is no longer accessible to non-paying guests. This being said you can still walk the beach and wonder what it would be like to stay the night inside its walls.
A Brief History
This island city belonged to the ferociously independent Paštrovići clan of Montenegrins. In 1423, fearful of Turkish attacks, it became a Venetian protectorate. Their fears were justified and the Turks soon came to call. In 1539 while the Turkish fleet was besieging Kotor, Turkish ships were moored in Jaz (Budva) and these were raided by the townspeople. Here, within those hulls they found enough bounty to build the town fortifications. They were severely punished for their audacity when the Ottomans returned during the Fourth Ottoman–Venetian War. The town was razed to the ground and would be rebuilt by the Venetians after much pleading from the townspeople. Again a settlement of importance, it then became a heaven for piracy.
During the year of rule by the Yugoslav Kingdom it became a royal hideout for the Serbian Karađorđević family. Yet by the 1950’s the population had dropped from 400 to a mere 20 people.The communist government breathed new life by moving the remaining townspeople and rebranding the island into a hotel and casino. One that would hoist such luminaries as Orson Wells, Kirk Douglas, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Princess Margaret and Ingemar Stenmark.
As of 2009, a 30 year lease was granted to a new ownership group called Aman resorts on condition that they revitalize the property. This has been completed and the property has won many prestigious awards in the hospitality sector.
Things to do:
Apart from viewing the pretty island and lounging around the beach, this corner of Montenegro offers mountaintop monasteries and churches such as Praskvica, St Sava, Rustovo as well as a few others. When leaving Sveti Stefan, admire the view of the shapely mountains. This chain of mountains in between the magnificent Lake Skadar and the Adriatic Sea is one of the most stunning in the Balkans. This is especially prominent when approaching the town of Petrovac. This popular beach town, named after the Serb king Peter I, has a great beach and a stunning chapel built on a rocky island.
Bar (53 km):
This important industrial sea port used to go by the name of Antivari due to its position on the other side of the Adriatic from the city of Bari in Italy. It is the terminus for the Bar to Belgrade railroad, a project started in 1952 that fell into disrepair and is not being reconstructed. Most of the city was destroyed in the Second World War, and an earthquake further devastated the region in 1979. As such the character of the town is mostly modern.
A Brief History
The city comes from humble beginnings as a Roman castle. It was originally built in the mountains, unlike the modern new town built by the sea. Like Budva, it became part of the Serb state of Duklja before passing from the Byzantines, Serbs, Hungarians, Venetians (Albania Veneta) and finally the Ottomans who held it until 1878. It was then captured by Montenegro after a seven week siege. Most of the old town was destroyed, the victors renamed the city and eventually incorporated it into Yugoslavia.
The city was shelled by the Austrian navy during the First World War, they blockaded Montenegro from Kotor to prevent the Allies from using its ports. During the Second World War the city saw an uprising against their Italian occupiers, as well as the murder of much of the towns Albanian population by Communist partisans.
The 1979 earthquake destroyed Stari Bar’s aqueduct. Stari Bar, the medieval old town was then abandoned for a few years until services were restored. This spurred massive growth in the new town, located in the lowlands on the Adriatic Sea.
Things to do:
You can start your exploration, much like I did, in the new town of Bar. You can also skip it, if you want to head to Stari Bar right away, there is not much to do here.
When you make it to the waterfront in Bar, you will be greeted by a palm lined seaport promenade. This promenade offers a view of a huge container port. I was pretty sick with a flu when I arrived so I didn’t enjoy any of the beaches or the restaurants/bars. Sights include the former royal residence, built by king Nikola I of Montenegro for his daughter. She would go on to wed king Peter of Serbia. Another sight just outside the new town is the world’s oldest Olive tree, with an estimated age of 2000 years.
The most impressive sight in Bar surely is Stari Bar (Old Town). It is located up in the hills overlooking the Adriatic. As you approach though a confusing mess of roads, you will see the decaying walls surrounding the remains of an old clock tower and a church with a large bastion at the top. Firstly, you will have to walk through the cobblestone Old Town, where a few of the villagers have returned. The complex is large and will take you a few hours to explore. There are many exposed foundations and as you get higher up you can see the large towers and walls that albeit damaged, still look imposing. There are some signposts indicating what these buildings once were and a few of the structures have been restored, offering additional insight on the settlement. The best vantage point is the castle at the top of the complex. Not to miss is the ancient stone aqueduct that once fed water into the town.
Ulcinj (65 km):
As you drive further south you will start to notice different cultural patterns. The driving goes from hectic, to Albanian hectic. Albanians are notorious for their aggressive driving, something I was familiar with due to my prior visit to their country. The southern region of Montenpegro has been traditionally associated with Montenegro’s Albanian minority and still to this day is mostly Albanian. Ulcinj, founded in the fifth century BC is one of the oldest settlements in the Adriatic. Due to its isolated location it still retains much of its rustic charm. I did not see many foreign tourists in this part of the country but there was a horde of Albanians pouring in from the south. As we drove into town though the main road down towards the beach we got stuck in an infernal traffic jam, chaos ensued as cars pulled in and out from every direction without regard for with for pedestrians. Needless to say we parked further away, on the Jadran peninsula. One of two peninsulas that forms the bay of Ulcinj. From the dirt parking lot we walked down into town. From the here we were greeted by a sublime view of the town and its fortifications.
A Brief History
The site is believed to have been occupied since the Bronze Age where Illyrian tribes were the prime inhabitants. The city was founded by settlers from Colchis (Present day Georgia) on a rocky promontory. The ethnic composition of the inhabitants was possibly Illyrian due to the presence of Cyclopean walls, a Mycenaean wall building technique where stones were fit together without the use of mortar for the joints. The city was known as a pirate haven, one of the leading ports for piracy in the Mediterranean region.
During the Third Illyrian War (168BC), the city known as Olcinium broke rank with Illyria and joined Rome. When the empire split in two parts, it became part of the Byzantine Empire (Eastern Rome), with the inhabitants converting to Orthodox Christianity. Like many of the other cities on the Montenegrin Coastline, it fell to the Serbs. During this era, the Old Town as we know it was constructed. In 1405 the Venetians took over as part of their Albana Veneta Province but it fell to the Barbary pirates, and was incorporated into the Ottoman empire in 1571. The pirates never left and continued their reign of terror from the town, piracy was again in full swing. This is also the city where controversial Jewish preacher Sabbatai Zevi was exiled by the Turks.
In 1878, the city became part of the Kingdom of Montenegro, when it was captured from the Ottoman Turks. From there on the city fell into a long decline, only being stopped by the development of its tourism industry, it has not looked back.
Things to do:
As mentioned earlier, if you are looking for parking, there is a large dirt parking lot at the Jadran peninsula. From here it is easy to walk down to the beach and eventually to the 2000-year-old citadel. The beach is beautiful, albeit a bit outdated with a few strange old men sunbathing. When you have had your share of sunbathing, walk up the citadel steps and prepare to be blown away by the scale of the town. There is a small history museum in this section of the city and many small bars. Although the city is small just enjoy your time relaxing here. The surrounding area is gorgeous. On the south side of the Jadran there are many resorts with private beaches. It is worth taking a look at if you have the time.
Conclusion
With my health fading and my sickness increasing, I never made it over the border to northern Albania, something I would have to keep for a future trip. I had done much of southern Montenegro but Shkodër (Scutari) in northern Albania remains on my list of places to visit. Budva was amazing with its clear water, parties and sun but the rest of the coast south of here is still extraordinarily tourist free and well worth the visit.
