Budapest – The Pearl of the Danube
Along the shoreline of the Danube lies a place of legend and repute. This urban center is more romantic than Paris, more interesting than Vienna and more exiting than Berlin. The world was deprived of this city (Budapest) for over 50 years, the vile result of the Cold War. As an Iron Curtain fell over Central Europe, the world lost many of its brightest lights. Now, once again, one can enjoy a pleasant walk among it’s tree lined boulevards while enjoying the riverfront view, one that includes of the most beautiful parliament building in the world. Furthermore, who could forget the famed Szechenyi Baths, where one can bask in hot springs, unequaled in Europe. Yes, I would argue that Budapest is a city like no other!
Table of Contents
A Little Geography
Budapest is built along the banks of the Danube River, one of the most important water courses in Europe. On the west bank of the River is a hill with glimmering limestone buildings overlooking the Danube Valley. This is the seat of Buda, the royal city of Hungary. On the opposite bank of the river, on a flat plain, stands the more residential city of Pest. Until the 19th century these were separate cities, with very little in common until the completion of the famous Chain Bridge that links them.
Today many more crossings exist, varying in ornamentation and good taste depending on how recently it was built. These help the cities fell more interconnected and walkable.
Hungary is for the most part a flat agrarian country, with a bounty of fertile plains and the city of Buda was able to develop relatively quickly due to its rare (by Hungarian standards) defensive geography. The Buda hill has been host to many defensive structures, part of a defence network that has helped keep its residents safe throughout the centuries. Buda saw the lion’s share of the urban development of the early city until the construction of the walls of Pest.
A Short History of Budapest
Due to the complex history of the city, I will try to give a quick overview of Budapest. The city has been occupied since the stone age but its history truly begins with the Romans and would grow in importance with the founding of the Hungarian State.
Antiquity and Barbarian Migrations
Budapest was founded in 89AD as the roman settlement Aquincum on the site of an old Celtic town. Like ancient Vienna, the city was founded as a military outpost. It was part of the Danubian limes defensive system before becoming an important market town and finally the capital of the roman province of Pannonia. In 409 AD Attila the Hun, and the Hunnic tribes, bore down on Roman Hungary. Under heavy pressure the roman garrison pulled out and Roman Hungary was theirs. When Attila passed on, the tribes split into many groups. In the meantime further migrations happened in the Hungarian Plain including the passage of the Avars, who would rule the region for the next three centuries.
In 829, the Avars were defeated by Bulgaria. The new Bulgarian land was at the territorial limits of their empire and the Bulgarian king ordered two river fortresses to be built on opposite banks of the Danube, both Buda and Pest.
Magyars and Hungarian Kingdom
The Magyars, a group claiming to be decedents of Attila the Hun, would begin migrating towards the Danube Basin shortly after the Bulgarian acquisition. Their continued settlement of the Danube Basin created the basis for the Hungarian-Bulgarian wars. At first the Hungarians allied with the Byzantines and suffered a setback. Defeated they retreated to Transylvania, specifically around the the city of Timisohara, where they would settle and wait for their turn to strike again. Eventually the Hungarian/Byzantine alliance would prove fruitful and the Hungarians would come control the Danube Basin. The first dynasty of Hungary the Árpáds built their Palace near Budapest. At that time nearby the nearby city of Esztergom was the capital and the first king of Hungary, St Stephen, would convert the new nation to Christianity.
In the 13th century the Tartars, a Mongolian Tribe, devastated eastern and central Europe. There was little in the way of non-primitive defensive fortification in Hungary at this time and since the country is flat it suffered terribly. King Béla IV of Hungary was a witness to this destruction as he was chased by the mongols all the way to the Adriatic Sea as a young prince (see Trogir). He consecrated the his reign in building many defensive fortification, including the walls of Buda as well as building his palace in that city. He also imported setters from neighbouring nations to repopulate the country. This gave Buda its first taste of its multi-ethnic flair. The Kingdom would flourish and reach its peak under king Matthias Corvinus born in the Transylvanian city of Cluj. The kingdom grew to include parts of Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Romania and even Austria at its peak. Alone Hungary held back the Turkish expansion in the Balkans, but with no help from Christian Europe on the horizon things were forlorn.
Ottoman and the Austrian Period
Shortly after the king’s death, his empire fell apart. In 1526, the Ottomans, long the foe of Hungary, conquered Budapest after the battle Battle of Mohács. What remained of Hungary passed into Habsburg Austrian hands. Budapest became a leading administrative center under Turkish Rule. During this time paprika was incorporated into Hungarian cuisine. Ottoman ingenuity was not only confined to the culinary realm, the long tradition of public baths that is so often associated with the city was started under Ottoman suzerainty. In Budapest the Ottomans build many bathhouses.
In 1686, Budapest, along with most of Hungary (with the exception of the fortress-city of Timisohara), was recaptured by the Holy League. The league consisted of a group of Christian volunteers and soldiers from various nations. The expedition was led by Austria and was assisted by a young promising military officer, Prince Eugene of Savoy would would go on to great fame during several campaigns against the Turks in Central Europe and the Balkans as well as during the War of Spanish Succession against a powerful France. It would still be many years until the rest of Hungary would fall to Austrian rule.
Much of the 19th century would be dominated by the struggle for Hungarian independence, culminating with the 1848 revolution. Although ultimately a failure, this endeavour would lead to the formation of the dual monarchy in 1867. Austria would become the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Budapest would be designated a twin capital of the state. During this time Hungarians would pour in from the overpopulated country side and the city would grow considerably. In 1873, Buda and Pest were merged into a single city. Budapest would also develop what is considered the second oldest metro in world.
The city was quite wealthy at this time and a considerable Jewish populations would develop giving ride to the name “Jewdapest”. In fact Jews composed a staggering 24% of the population.
Fun Fact!
The famous magician Harry Houdini was a Budapest Jew. He would rise to fame for his acts of magic performed on american soil.
World Wars and the Cold War
Hungary, as a subject of the Austrian Empire, entered the war on the side of Austria and Germany during the First World War. They were severely (and perhaps unfairly) punished for the failure of their Austrian masters. Hungary lost its historic homeland in Transylvania alongside two thirds of its territory.
This loss greatly contributed to Hungary joining the axis powers during the Second World War. Shamefully a large part of the Jewish population was sent to the gas chamber and concentrated efforts were made to eradicate all traces Jewish life in the city. During this period, brave figures like Carl Lutz and other members of the foreign diplomatic community such as the Swede Raoul Wallenberg collaborated to protect many members of the Jewish community by taking advantage of the authority of their respective consulates. The later was sent to his death in the gulags by the Soviets. At the end of the war, the allies bombed the city and after the invasion of Russia (USSR), Hungary fell under the Iron Curtain. Communist authorities damaged the palace and many other bourgeois national symbols during this time.
In 1956, the Hungarian Revolution – centered on the city of Budapest took shape. Protesters, aided by the army, took to the streets. The communist authorities in the Hungarian Parliament attempted to pull out of the Warsaw Pact to appease them. In response the country was invaded by the USSR, and the revolt brutally repressed. Today the city is on the mend with a growing economy, buoyed by tourism dollars.
What to do in Budapest?
Since Budapest is a sprawling capital city, I will divide the city into multiple districts to help you, the reader, locate the city’s attractions. But first I would like to list some general activities that may span multiple districts of the city.
General
In this section we will run down the generalities of the city including how to get around and what to explore.
Getting Around
Budapest as the capital of a nation is a hub for all transportation services. International bound trains and inter-city can be found at Keleti railway station. Smaller stations such as Nyugati serve the outlying areas of Budapest including smaller cities like Esztergom. All train stations are easily access though public transportation.
Local transportation in Budapest includes the metro, bus and commuter rail system. The yellow line (M1) that runs north from the downtown towards the Széchenyi Baths is one of the oldest of such systems in the world. Budapest is easy to get around, in large part due to the quality of their transportation systems. Things are well linked together so you do not need a car. Although one can be rented easily if one desires.
Walking tours:
Budapest has some of the best walking tours in Europe. The cold war history in particular is still fresh in the minds of the people and the local guides are quite informative. I would recommend the Free Walking Tours but there are a plethora of companies to choose from. These tours last anywhere from 2-3 hours so bring a good pair of shoes. Here are a few recommendations:
- The Orginal Tour: This walking tour takes you across the river from Pest to Buda for an introduction to the city
- The Communism Walk: Come see the scars left on the face of the city, learn about events that shaped the cold war and what it meant to live under totalitarian rule.
- Jewish District: Take a tour our the old Jewish district to understand and imagine what life was like in what was one of the most vibrant center in the world.
Walking Across the Chain Bridge
This bridge was the first to cross the Danube and is a symbol of the city due to its grandiose architecture as well as its contribution to the foundation of the Hungarian State. It was built in 1849 to link Buda to Pest, the east and the west. Its economic impact on the city was immense and contributed to the city becoming one of the premiere metropolises in Europe. The bridge contains cast iron decorations and a slew of stone lions – the symbol of the city.
Buda
Buda is the name generally given for the old city on the hill, on the west bank of the Danube. This district was home to the medieval city of Buda as well as the majority of the monuments of Hungarian sovereignty. Directly in line with the chain bridge is a path that climbs up Buda hill. At the top of the last flight of stairs you will come to a plaza with a stunning view of the Danube river, the chain bridge and the city of Pest. While taking pictures I witnessed a wedding proposal rejection – it was quite award to say the least. To the south of this plaza is the Buda Castle and to the north the town of Buda. In between the two areas is a mix of stately palaces, excavated foundations and administrative buildings.
The Castle and the Citadella (south)
The castle, one of the symbols of the city, is one of the strangest buildings in Hungary. The building has been reconstructed several times since its inception by King Béla of Hungary in 1267. Little remains of the former medieval complex, the magnificent old palace having been destroyed when Budapest was reconquered from the Ottomans in 1686. Several iterations of the palace were subsequently built on the site, notably during the era of Maria Theresa and Franz Joseph, both rulers of the Austrian Empire. The building you see today is communist era reconstruction of the 1856 building. The original was destroyed around the end Second World War when the soviets cornered the Nazi and Hungarian forces in the castle, one of the last battles of the war was fought over control of this strategic point. Most of castle hill was consumed by fire in the ensuing chaos. The structure has many windows but if you look closely they are cheaply built and some even look like plastic. At the front entrance of the building (facing the river) will find a dome and a larger than life statue of Eugene of Savoy on horseback.
At the center of the complex is a large courtyard. This is where the visitors access to the museum can be found. Like on the chain bridge, you will find several lions statues. Unfortunately the soviets created extensive damage to the heritage elements during their “reconstructions” as such the interior may be less interesting to visitors, although the chapel is stunning. Walking around the complex you will find reconstructed medieval fortifications, that may or may not be an accurate reflection of their original look and location. Looking south along the Danube river you will see an elevated fort on the next hill, along with a view of the castle battlements. Before you leave walk along the castle fortifications and check out the castle garden and bazaar located on the Danube river below the fortress.
The fortifications you can see in the distance is the citadella, an Austrian construction with a large statue at its center. This fortress offers a great view of the city for those who have the time to visit. This most easily accessible via the Szabadság Bridge, where you will find the Gellért Hill Cave and the magnificent Gellért Thermal Bath.
Alternatively, the structure can be accessed just as easily via the Elisabeth bridge, near the Rudas Baths. Whatever way you choose to hike up to the citadella, don’t forget to visit the statue of Gerard of Csanád (St. Gerard), the patron saint of Hungary and an important figure of the conversion of the Hungarian people to Christendom during the time of King Stephen. His statue is easy to spot on the hill as it is surrounded by a colonnade.
On your walk up you will come across a beautiful waterfall, juts below the statue.
The fortress itself was built after the suppression of the Hungarian revolt in 1848. Although the structure is rather unimpressive, the grand soviet era war memorial built into its walls is rather memorable. The complex was completed in 1947 was dedicated to the soviet troops that drove out the fascist authorities during the Second World War. Considering the atrocities committed by the Soviets in subsequent years, I am not sure that it is completely appreciated for that purpose today. In fact it was rededicated after the Cold War to the Liberty of the Hungarian people and the original encryption replaced. The monument features many statues including one statue large on a podium of a man holding a laurel above his head and others of a man carrying a torch raising it above his head.
For those looking for a great view of the Buda Castle there is a viewpoint at Kilátóterasz, just above the St. Gerard memorial.
On the side closest to the Gellért Thermal Bath you will get equally impressive views of the River.
Residential Buda Hill (North)
If you turn north from the plaza above the chain bridge you will enter the residential area of Buda Castle. This area was settled around the same time as castle hill. As mentioned earlier, the castle and residential district were established after mongol attacks ravaged the Hungarian plain. Although settled early in the medieval period not much remains of the original structures. Centuries of conflict have continuously altered the landscape. Most residential buildings you see today date from the period of Austrian occupation. This is one of the most charming areas of the city with neat cobblestone streets and Gothic churches.
Before entering, do know that there is a large network of tunnels and caves underneath Castle Hill. In North Buda you will find entrances to two of these underground attractions this includes the labyrinth, an underground complex that Vlad Tepes (Dracula) was imprisoned at and the Hospital in the Rock. The hospital is part of a network of tunnels and bunkers built during the Second World War and then subsequently re-used during the Cold War.
At the north end of the complex you will find the Church of Mary Magdalene of Buda. This 13th century Gothic marvel is but a shadow of its former self, a ruined Gothic tower standing our amongst the surrounding buildings, at its base are the foundations of the old church. The building was shelled during the Seconds World War and the job was completed by the anti-religious communist authorities.
Other attractions include the House of Houdini museum, dedicated the the famous magician and Budapest Jew but the real gem of the Buda district is the cluster of structures around the Matthias church. The 14th century Romanesque-Gothic church with a brightly tiled roof is one of the most important buildings in the Kingdom of Hungary. It is here that king Matthias Corvinicus married and two emperors were crowned. The church is stunning and I would are say that it is one of the prettiest such buildings in Europe. In behind the church is the Fisherman’s bastion, built atop a wall that once protected the Fishermans guild. It has seven distinctive towers representing the seven Magyar tribes – as such it is a symbol of Hungary. You can also find a statue of King Steven of Hungary – the founder of the medieval kingdom of the country. The bastion is also built in Romanesque style and with its pale stone it matches the church marvellously. Finally the old city hall can be found directly in front of the church.
Pest
Pest is the old residential heart of the city. Although it developed later than the city of Buda, it grew rapidly and saw a construction boom in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its wide boulevards are reminiscent of Paris and other world class European capitals and its subway is one of the oldest in the world.
City Center
This section will cover areas inside the immediate city center, hence the areas of District V – District VIII.
Any visit to Pest should start at the St. Stephen’s basilica, named after the first king of Hungary, the neoclassical structure was completed in 1905. I stayed in a small apartment overlooking the near church square and it is a beautiful structure. The church is directly in line with the chain bridge, just to the north there is a square with a statue commemorating the soviet war dead and to the south aquarium square (see the nightlife section).
Among the attractions in the core are Fashion Street, a popular shopping street lined with cafe’s and the Párisi Udvar Passage. This beautiful building houses an ornate arcade with one of the best cafe’s in Budapest.
Another personal favorite of mine is the Nagy Vásárcsarnok, the Neo-gothic styled central market located on the south side of the city center. From the upper catwalks you will be able to enjoy your food and marvel at the hordes of tourists walking below.
Along the waterfront you can find some of the a finest buildings in Hungary including the Vigadó Concert Hall, The Hungarian Academy of Sciences and the Hungarian parliament, of course. The Gothic parliament is the most impressive building of its kind in the world, it is the largest building in Hungary and the ornate white stone and red roof tiles interplay for a stunning view. It was completed in 1902 after the Hungarian nation gained a degree of political autonomy in the Austrian Empire, hence the crown of Hungary (The dual crown of Austria-Hungary) can be found withing its walls.
While walking along towards the parliament be sure to catch the Shoes on the Danube sculpture. It is a somber memorial to those (many of whom where Jewish) that where shot on the river bank by the fascist authorities during their reign of terror during the Second World War.
On a sad note the statue of Imre Nagy standing on a footbridge that once graced a plot of land near parliament was removed by Victor Orban and placed in a new location. Imre was a hero of the failed 1958 revolution and the statue was stunning in its location by parliament.
Finally make sure to check out the Great Synagogue in the old Jewish district. The 19th century building is built in eastern, Moorish style and is one of the most unique synagogues in central Europe. Check out the nightlife section to learn why this district has the best nightlife in Europe.
Outer city
The classiest street in Budapest is undoubtedly Andrássy Avenue. This tree lined boulevard starts near the St. Stevens and ends at the colonnaded Hero Monument at City Park. This colonnaded monument is built as a semi circle and contains statues of many great Hungarians erected between the columns. In other words a Hungarian Walhalla! At the center of the monument stands a large central column akin to Trafalgar square in London.
Just outside of the Heroes Monument, you will find City Park. The green lung of the city, it is host to many great attractions such as;
- The world famous Széchenyi thermal bath house
- Two artificial lakes
- A full sized locomotive
- The Vajdahunyad castle
- A pretty Romanesque chapel
- A World Famous Zoo
- World class museums
The zoo was constructed in 1896 and is considered one of the oldest in the world while the area around heroes square has two museums; the Palace of Art and the Museum of Fine Arts. While walking towards the castle you will notice the pretty Romanesque style Jaki chapel. The castle itself is located on an a lake and must be access via a gatehouse and bridge. It was built in 1896 for the Millennium exposition, with the theme being a 1000 years of Hungarian Culture. Called Vajdahunyad Castle the structure features several Hungarian construction styles, especially that of the Corvin Castle (Hunyadi) in the Transylvanian region of Romania. Thus explaining why the structure has a vampiric look, as if it belongs in a Bram Stoker novel. A statue of Béla Lugosi, the famous actor who played Dracula is featured on the grounds. Bela was an ethnic Hungarian from Transylvania. A perfect man to play the famous monster!
The centerpiece of the park is the Széchenyi thermal bath. Completed in 1913, this bathhouse is the finest and largest in Europe (See a trend? Maybe its just that Budapest is one of the greatest cities on the planet!). The warm water used on site is generated naturally through underground springs and the baths are open to both sexes. Although a visit can be pricey, it is noticeably less so than in other cities. If you can visit only one attraction in Budapest, make this the one!
Once past the beautiful baroque exterior you will be privy to an even more beautiful neoclassical interior. Painted in bright yellow it seamlessly merges with the bright blue hue of the pool waters. The pool may be crowded but the water temperature is near perfect – even for a cool May day.
Óbuda (District III)
Known as district III, Óbuda (Old Buda) is where the old roman Buda – Aquincum was located. Once a lively town, it was merged to Buda and Pest in 1873 as it is now considered a suburb of Budapest. To get here you can take the H5 Suburban Train or the #1 Tram. Since it is a suburban area, it will feel very relaxed compared to the hustle and bustle of the big city. Here you can see roman ruins and enjoy beers in quaint pubs, located on old cobblestone streets. The ruins are located in the Fő tér, or main square. This are will also give you a glimpse of some grisly cold war era buildings that seem out of place in such a charming district. Be sure to see the Obuda synagogue before you leave. Just keep in mind that most of the pretty buildings and squares are clustered close to Szentlélek tér.
Visiting a suburb such as this will give you a glimpse of everyday life in the city, outside of the party hardy gaze of the tourism center.
Other (Memento Park)
Outside the city center, in the southern suburbs, you can find Memento Park. This green space was conceived in 1993 and is home to all of the cold war statues collected from public spaces all over the city. This park will give you a great insight on the Cold War in Hungary. At your arrival you will see a massive masonry archway waiting to greet you.
The attraction itself is not easily accessible by transit and is easier to arrive by car. It took me at least an hour by bus as it requires a transfer from the city center to the M4 metro at Kelenföld station to the 720 bus heading south. It is also a little overpriced for what you get. To pay pass through the giant brick gate and find the booth near the soviet era car.
On the east side of the property you will find a pedestal with the remnants of a statue, now just the boots. Inside one of the side structures you will find the mound used for these boots as well as many exhibits about the secret police activities perpetrated on Hungarian citizens during the cold war. It also includes a long informational film about the espionage used on a day to day basis by agents.
Strangely enough it is possible access the concrete base that the statue is on. Here are stored many pieces of soviet art. The statue of the little boy itself is very interesting and it is worth asking about it.
The statue of a three boobed mother of the nation is also quite interesting.
On the west side of the property you will find the proper moment park, unfortunately there is little contect given to much of these structures unless you purchase an additional park map from the desk.
Day trips
Vac
This pretty town on the banks of the Danube river makes for a nice day trip. The city may be small but is a popular summer retreat with Budapest locals. Enjoy the pretty old town and remember to to take in the atmosphere of the place.
Esztergom
The capital of old Hungary, Esztergom offers an unparalleled insight into the annals of Hungarian history. From the famous basilica you can get a glimpse into life on the Slovakian side of the Danube river. The city is easily accessible by rail from Nyugati station.
Nightlife
Budapest is known for its torrid nightlife. Bars in different districts of the city close at different times but all pub crawls lead to the old Jewish district where the party goes all night within the confines of its famous ruins bars, but more on that later.
The first bar I entered in Budapest is an oddity. Located in Aquarium Park, home to a large pool of water dumped in the foundation of a communist era building, it is called Aquarium Club. The club consisted of a spacious outdoor terrace in the middle of a public park. The club itself is located under the “fountain”. The site of the park was once the possible emplacement of a new municipal building that was never completed hence the foundation was re-adapted as a pool of water. As part of this complex a municipal parking garage still exits. I had a few shots of Palenka, a Slovaki liquor that I was recommended from our walking tour guide. She mentioned that too much of it can make you teleport to Bratislava (by teleport I mean wake up on a night train heading to the Slovakian capital) before proceeding to the next bar .
Just north of aquarium park you can find, Erzsébetváros, the old Jewish quarter. Here you will have access to the ruin bars. For those not familiar with the concert, bars were constructed in abandoned buildings and in courtyards outside of the glitzy town center. Their rundown grimy appearance gave rise to the name ruin bars and today the district is know for them. These bars are more popular with tourists these days and as such if you have any Hungarian friends ask for them to bring you to one of their local establishments to experience a more Hungarian flavor.
Lastly, event that you cannot miss is bath-party. Located in the famous Széchenyi Thermal Baths, the complex is turned into a club at night on select Saturdays. This is the biggest event in town!
Conclusion
Budapest is more romantic than Paris, it is more interesting than Vienna, it has the nightlife of Berlin and the cultural institutions to match that of mighty Rome, all this at a fraction of the cost. So why is Budapest not mentioned in the same breath as those cities, I don’t know. I would speculate on a pervasive Western European Bias in the tourism industry but one thing is clear, Budapest attracts many more tourists today than just a few years ago – eventually this gem will be a very crowded place. Maybe then it will hold the same cultural sway in the minds of those who visit. Until then I will enjoy the city for what it is, Hungary’s gift to the world.
