Bristol – Retracing Family History in Brunel’s Port City
I arrived in Bristol from Chester through the Welsh hinterland, by train, on a sunny afternoon. Leaving the ornate Temple Meads station platform for the open air of Victoria Street, in the borough of Redcliffe, I was confronted with the horror of modern Bristol. Hammered by the German Luftwaffe during the Second World War, many districts of the city were rebuilt in a drab/monotonous concrete modernist style during the post-war reconstruction. I was relieved when I crossed over the Bristol Bridge into Old City and the semblance of a cultured civilization appeared to me. If I were to describe the city, it would be that it is the San Fransisco of Great Britain. A touch bohemian, colourful buildings line the escarpments and a historic bridge provides a magnificent backdrop to the city. Furthermore, like its US counterpart the city is known for its outstanding natural beauty, the Avon River gorge taking the place of the San Fransisco Bay.
If, like me, you are taking the train and walking from Victoria street to the downtown make a brief stop off at the ruined Temple Church. From the ruined carcass try to imagine what this neighbourhood once looked like.
Table of Contents
Geography
Located in the south-west corner of England Bristol was once one of the most important ports in the British Empire. From the Bristol Channel that separates Wales from England, the River Avon flows through a rocky gorge before becoming the flat floodplain (once a marsh) that the city sits on today! The area around the city consists of limestone hills and scenic countryside.
The old town is built between the floating harbour of Bristol, a winding bend of water diverted from the Avon River that encircles the Wapping Warf, Spike Island and the Old Town on the north side before rejoining the Avon river. That river flows south of the districts mentioned above. On a hill overlooking the city where the Avon river becomes a narrow precipice is the Clifton neighbourhood.
History
Although founded in 1000 A.D, the Avon Valley has been occupied since the stone age. Rudimentary forts were established valley since the iron age and a roman villa called Abona was connected by road to nearby Bath. The town had humble beginnings, starting as a mint and trading town where silver pennies were produced. The city we know today would take place under the Normans, who would establish one of the most impregnable keeps in the whole of England (unfortunately now lost to time!).
Norman Conquest and Medieval Period
William the conqueror quickly overwhelmed England in 1066 and the new Norman possessions quickly came under the threat of revolt. Hence a massive castle was built here by the conquerors. From here the city played prominently in the Norman Invasion of Ireland, many of the expeditions being funded and organized from here.
During the 12th century, the town developed a port on the River Avon, developing strong trading ties with the island of Ireland and later Gascony in France. It was the one of the important towns in England after London, Norwich and York. The city took a big step back during a 1348 outbreak of the Black Death, where over one third of the residents were decimated. The city would not recover and begin to grow again until late in the 16th century.
A Thriving Port City and The New World
As the second most important port in England and its geographic position on the south-west coast of the UK, it should come as no surprise that the city was the launching pad of Britain’s Atlantic expeditions to the New World. In 1497, a Venetian by the name of John Cabot, discovered the coast of Newfoundland while under the commission of the English Monarch. Many Bristolians settled on the coast of Newfoundland (today part of Canada) and trade would accelerate between Bristol, Spain and the American colonies. It is during the 18th century that Bristol reached its apex, participating in the Triangle Trade. In this vile practice, slaves taken from Africa and exchanged to the Americas for cotton, rum and other manufactured goods (American cities such as Providence). Although it was overtaken by Liverpool as a slaving port, 2000 ships sailing from Bristol have been estimated to have carried over 500 000 slaves to the new world, often under brutal condition. Yet it is also from Bristol that much of the Anti-Slavery resistance movement grew (although the elite of the city was firmly in the anti-abolitionist camp!).
The Age of Industry
The city was suppressed by several of its competitors during this period including the port of Liverpool and the manufacturing giant of Birmingham yet continued to grow at a staggering rate. This coincided with the abolition of the slave trade among many factors. This period in the city is mostly associated with Isambard Kingdom Brunel, my favorite civil engineer and author of many Bristol landmarks. A pioneer he created the Great Western Railway between Bristol and London, engineered oceangoing steamships and created the iconic Clifton suspension bridge. In 1867 the it was decided that the port of Bristol be moved downstream to Avonmouth, ushering the end of an era to a proud port that had seen action since the medieval ages. This was due to the fact that the meandering Avon gorge was difficult to navigate for ships that had become ever so larger. Yet the city reinvented itself to become a major tobacco producer!
The World at War and the Modern Era
Although untouched during the First World War, the city suffered heavily at the hands of the Luftwaffe. Over 100 000 buildings were damaged and many beyond repair. The city center was rebuilt in the 1960’s in horrid modernist style but the city has focused its efforts on the restoration of old styles and structures since the 1980’s.
A Guide To Bristol
For a city of such renown, Bristol is compact and relatively easy city to visit by foot. Although home to many lively districts, any visit to the city should begin in the old town, home to the historic floating harbour of Bristol and much of the old urban fabric.
Old Town and Broadmead
Crossing the Bristol Bridge, north from Redcliff, into the old town you find a massive park to your right and the old town itself to your left. In the massive park, named after Bristol Castle, you will find the ruins of St. Peter’s church, St Mary Le Port Church, along with the old Castle foundations. Connecting the park back to Redcliffe is an oddly shaped pedestrian structure. On the Redcliffe side of the river from this bridge you will will a cluster of old stone and masonry buildings, some of the few in the district. Inside them you will find a pub, a wine bar and a brewpub. This is a neat place to stop off for a beer. The area north of this park is home to Broadmead Bristol’s newer district. It is clean but is basically a giant bland mall. Luckily the occasional vestige of its past remains. This includes the new room, John Wesley chapel. Built in 1739, it is the oldest Methodist church in the world. Wesley was progressive for his time and was one of the leader of the abolitionist movement in the UK (slavery). Just beside the church you will find the arcade. Unlike many of the modern malls, this one has some character. Established in 1825 it is home to roughly 20 independent shops. Like many arcades of the era is sports a neoclassical facade is is the equivalent of a covered mall over a pedestrian street!
The road north of Bristol Bridge, turns into Broad street. On the street you will find many Bristol landmarks such as Edward Everard’s Printing Works (with its unique facade) and the Nicholas Street Market. The latter is well worth a peak inside. The Georgian styled arcade mall is the oldest in the city, dating from 1743, and is know for its eccentric shops and food vendors. This is a must visit!
At the end of the street you will find the old town gate. On the other side of it is a modern plaza with a war cenotaph at its center and not much else to see. The gate itself is interesting as it is one of the few remaining parts of the old city wall. It consists of a pointy tower with a large clock. A part of that wall housed the St John’s Church that still stands today and is attached to the tower!
The historic old town itself is located on the eastern side of Broad street and consists of exquisite limestone buildings. I was in awe of the architecture on display when I first turned in.
In many parts of the old town, the streets are mostly pedestrianized and many of the narrower sections have been turned into fantastic public spaces for pub terraces.
One particular block of Buildings that cant be missed can be found on Corn Street, not far from the Nicholas Street Market, not far from where it meets Broad Street..
Headlining the southern end of the old town is a public space that looks better in real life that in pictures. The regency era square consists of a bright green lawn surrounded by trees lines streets on all sides and fabulous townhouses surrounding it. The view of those buildings is mostly blocked by the trees unfortunately. This area is surrounded by water on all sides and grand old warehouses line the waterfront.
Wapping Wharf and Spike Island
This Slender island sandwiched between Bristol’s famous floating harbor and the Avon river was once the heart of Commercial and Later Industrial activity in Bristol. When you first cross the bridge from the old town you will be confronted by an ugly modern development at Merchants quay, but if you continue west you will be richly rewarded.
On the north side of the river you will get a view of Lloyds Amphitheatre and later the Cabot Tower in Brando. On the island itself you will be confronted with the M-Shed museum, a transit shed displaying artifacts from the 1950’s dockyards along with a series of loading cranes.
Leading away from the transit shed you will find the customary rail lines, remnants of the Bristol Harbor Railway. This public boardwalk along the floating port allows from stunning views of the city.
The real gem of this neighborhood can be found further along Spike Island in the western quadrant. This is where Brunel’s SS Great Britain is stored. The ship designed by Brunel dates from 1843 and has been turned into a museum on the engineering of the ship by its illustrious creator. Keep a few hours aside to do this attraction, the museum/tours is longer than you think. Lastly, don’t miss the Underfall Yard, before you cross over the river into the Hotwells. This restored Victorian shipyard displays a wide array of Victorian architecture.
Clifton Heights (&Hotwells)
Sharing a name with Bristol’s biggest landmark, this colourful bohemian neighborhood overlooking the city is renowned for it’s fine Georgian era architecture. Located on the edge of the Avon gorge, this is what I had truly come to Bristol to see! My family linage on my father’s side of the family can be traced to Bristol, where my great-grandfather is buried. Armed with circuitous instructions on where to find his grave (the church no longer exists), I was on my way from Spike island.
To make it up Clifton, you will have to pass though the Hotwells, a neighborhood lying at the base of Clifton Hill named after the hot springs that once bubbled up from the Avon River nearby. A prominent landmark is the Georgian Era Holy Trinity Church built at the center of the district.
A great view of the gorge can be found at the Plimsoll Swing Bridge, a highway bridge crossing the entrance of the floating harbour (and the previously constructed Brunel Swing Bridge. To get there you will have to walk up a heavily inclined pedestrian highway overpass, at least it will afford you a view of the rotting Bond warehouses, monstrous masonry behemoths that tower over the floating harbor.
From the concrete piers of the flating harbour, you can see the Avon be split in two and diverted into the city center. Crossing the channel is Brunel’s 1849 swing bridge overshadowed by the more recent highway bridge, a much larger construction.
Here are another few shots of the harbor mouth and the Avon Gorge with Clifton offering a stunning backdrop.
Clifton is know for its colorful townhouses and fine Georgian architecture. For the former I recommend a visit to Ambrose Road in the Hotwells, a winding street full of these playfully painted constructions (somehow I neglected to take one so I included a street view of it). It made me think of San Fransisco.
As you climb the hill to the Clifton suspension bridge the architectural quality improves and the colorful homes give way to the facades of smooth limestone Georgian buildings.
These structures have wonderful cast iron balconies that are almost reminiscent of New Orleans, something that surprised me.
As you approach the bridge you will find the remnants of the old Clifton Rocks railway station. Just around the corner of this landmark the buildings open up to reveal a large green space and the famous bridge itself. Overlooking the structure is a stone tower, the Clifton observatory.
The Bridge itself is an engineering marvel completed from a previous Isambard Kingdom Brunel design, a towering figure in the history of industrial Britain. Completed in 1864, this chain bridge is now the symbol of the city and figures on much of the Bristol memorabilia you can buy around town.
When you are done getting pictures of the bridge make sure to visit the observatory originally a 1766 windmill that was converted.
The basement of this building leads down town the Giants cave, leading down to a low hanging observation point.
From the point you will get a view of the bridge, although I maintain that the view from above is much better.
On the opposite side of the bridge from Clifton you will find a small but attractive residential area along with the bridge visitors center. From the bridge deck you will get sublime views of the Avon River below.
On the Clifton Down (the large plot of green grass in front of the Bridge) you will find an obelisk commemorating William Draper, a military officer from Bristol and a formative player in the establishment of the rules of Cricket. On the other side of the street you will find the Christ Church a pretty Georgian era establishment of religion.
The upper parts of Clifton have an extensive cafe scene so take the time to stop at some of the shops along the way.
After touring the city of Bristol there was one last thing for me to do and that was to track down my family heritage by finding my great grandfathers grave. To do this I needed help from my great uncle. You see, I knew the grave site was in Clifton but the church had long since been destroyed by Luftwaffe bombs and torn down. The cemetery adjacent to it had been turned into a public park. From the instructions i made my way towards Victoria Park not far from the Bridge site and from there I looked for a tree covered alley called the Birdcage Walk (St Andrew’s Walk). The St Andrew’s churchyard is located along the pathway and nothing remains of the 12th century church but a stone market. With my uncle’s instructions I was able to navigate the unkempt and wild plant growth that had entombed even the tombs making its difficult to read the inscriptions. It is a strangle and even serene place, almost lost to time within the city itself. From what I gathered from subsequent research is that the site is where people of a certain importance (civil servants, dignitaries and local luminaries) were buried. Although it may not look like it the burial ground is still active although the last burial was probably sometime in the 1950’s. Due to health concerns there are government restrictions on burials here and it is rare that one is conducted although it has happened on occasion.
Bristol University and Brandon
A hip neighbourhood, abutting Bristol University, Brandon is home to a Bristol Landmark the Cabot Tower on Brandon Hill. This free entry stone landmark was on my list of things to do in Bristol and an easy place to hit on my way down from Clifton. In the district you will find many fine old buildings along with those of the Queen Elizabeth’s Hospital
The stone tower itself is 32 meters in height and was completed in 1898.
The view from the top of the tower affords you a 360 degree view of the Bristolian landscape.
While in the district, you should check out the University of Bristol completed in 1909. Its distinctive central tower can clearly be seen from Brandon Hill. While near the uni check out the pubs and restaurants. I strongly recommend checking out the narrow alleyway called the Christmas steps. Not only is the street stunning but the pubs are a good stop-off as well!
Before leaving Bristol you have to stop off at the Cathedral. In front of witch you will find the a patch of lawn filled with students and the crescent shaped city hall building.
The cathedral itself dates from the 12th century with additions carried out until the late 19th century (the twin towers at its front date from 1888!). A visit is free and the friendly priest will likely come talk to you (he did for me!)
Redcliff
For more information on this district south of the old town, see the introductory paragraph where I detail my walk though a war town district filled in by modernist monstrosities, ruined churches and the gorgeous Temple Meads train station. Also check out the previous mentioned cluster of buildings at the castle bridge.
Although unmentioned earlier, Redcliff has a very interesting triangle of buildings on its south-west side, it is best viewed on the north side of the bridge Connecting Wapping Warf to the Old Town. If you insist on crossing over you will find a pretty row of colorful row-houses overlooking the floating harbour along with a church and an old Quaker Burial Ground.
Nightlife and Art Scene
As a student town, it should be no surprise that Bristol has a somewhat alternative nightlife scene. Although plenty of bars and pubs exist in the old town, Redcliff and Brandon – one must take the time to visit Moon Street. Located north of the modern and clean Broadmead, the contrast is stark. Located past the busy A38 roundabout this narrow gratify covered street is home to much of the arts and music scene in Bristol. I spent two nights here exploring the nightclubs, cafe’s and and bars here talking to all sorts of people. Although it may not be my favourite kind of art, this is ground zero for Banksy graffiti and his many imitators. I was informed about the “Trip Hop” music scene, although I did manage to wander into a cafe with an acoustic set and late what seemed to be a heavier metal / punk sort of thing.
For a more traditional experience stick to the Old Town or Brandon. You will find a great beer halls and cozy pubs that are hundreds of years old.
Conclusion
Bristol gets a bad rap as a sleepy student town when it fact it is a cultured and enchanting place to visit. It may lack the skyscrapers of London or the dynamism of a northern city like Manchester but it makes up for it in intellectual wit and creative direction. Visit Bristol for the museums, if you stay, do so with an open heart and the friendly locals will let you in, I know I felt right at home… Its like I was back where I belonged.
