Brighton – The Party Coastline of Great Britain

Just south of London, on a stretch of rocky English channel beach, lies a pier town like no other, Brighton. Unlike its rival, the venerable old Blackpool, Brighton receives quite a bit of sun, its rocky beaches filling up with pasty pale English people.

Table of Contents

• Regional Geography
• A Brief History
  • Antiquity
  • Saxons, Norman’s and the Medieval Ages
  • Decline and Revival
• What to do in Brighton?
• Spend a Day at the Beach
• Explore the Royal Pavilion and Other Regency Era Masterpieces
• Go Shopping in the Lanes
• Check Out Historic Buildings, Streets and Famous Hotels!
• Have a Fish and Chip by the Sea
• Marvel at the Georgian Terraces
• Walk Down the Victorian Era Brighton Palace Pier
• Have a Night Out on the Town
• Conclusion

Regional Geography

Brighton is historically part of the southern region of England called Sussex. The coastal town lies 76km, almost directly south of London making it a popular destination for day trippers and weekend tourists alike.

A Brief History

Antiquity

Occupied since the stone age, Brighton housed a settlement during both the Iron and Bronze age. In the 7th century, the Celts installed themselves in the regionally and by the third century BC a thriving settlement was built around a castle on Hollingbury Hill, just north of the city. Archeological evidence indicates that this was possibly a tribal capital. After the Roman conquest, a villa was constructed here with a road leading to London. This was a thriving rural area and many more villas and rural settlements were constructed!

Saxons, Norman’s and the Medieval Ages

The Roman’s departed during the fourth century leaving the remaining Romano-Celts to send for themselves. In the 5th century, it was invaded by the Anglo-Saxons and incorporated into their Kingdom of Sussex by 477. The Saxons were the first to establish a settlement where downtown Brighton is today. It was called Bristelmestune.

In 1066, the Normans crossed the English Channel. One of their greatest achievements was the creation of the Doomsday Book, the world’s first census (for the purpose of taxation… of course!). It showed Brighton to be a fishing village of 400 people strong. In the Medieval Ages the city constructed a church but was burned down by a French sea raid in 1514. It recovered on the basis of its strong fishing industry. In these years the layout of its current old town (The Lanes) was established. For a time it was the most important settlement in Sussex. The town saw the escape of King Charles II, to his exile in France in 1651.

Decline and Revival

Continually harassed by sea raiders, a declining fishing industry and devastated by a cyclone (Great Storm of 1703), Brighton was a blighted and impoverished place. The town’s fortune changed when British doctors began recommending bathing in seawater to cure a variety of ailments. The Royal Albion Spa hotel was constructed, one of the towns first, and business began to boom. The road from London was improved and the town became a ferry/transit point between England and France.

This period coincided with the patronage of the Prince Regent of England (and later king George IV). Beautiful Georgian architecture became the building blocks of this new spa city.

In 1841, a railway to London was constructed allowing for daily trips to Brighton. As such the city became popular with all classes of English society. The population increased from 7000-120000 over the course of the 19th century. The city’s Victorian era piers were constructed during this time. The resort escaped much of the Second World War destruction and remains a thriving destination to this day.

What to do in Brighton?

Heading to Brighton, from Bath, with a transfer proved to be a longer train ride than I previously imagined. Luckily I had picked up a bunch of mixed drinks in Bath while waiting for my train and I quickly made friends by sharing with my train seat partners. Once I arrived at the hostel, I attempted (and largely failed) to get my roommates to come out with me. As a major center of the LGBTQ+ community, this wacky beach place has accumulated a reputation for its seedy but fun party scene. It is best known for its wacky characters and lively atmosphere. As a strait man I am well aware that the gay community can be some of the best people to party with. I was excited to go out and and was prepared to do so on my own when more roommates came in. Luckily one of them wanted to go out and we had a grand old time!

Spend a Day at the Beach

My first day in Brighton was during a massive 2017 heat wave. As such the water was warm and the beach crowded, hordes of pale skinned Britons huddling together as one giant gelatinous mass. Although the beach not quite sandy (more so pebbly), the pier atmosphere is lively and people are truly enjoying themselves. You can’t miss it!

Explore the Royal Pavilion and Other Regency Era Masterpieces

Built in three stages for George, Prince of Whales (Future King George IV), the Royal Palace is considered a superb example of orientalist architecture in the UK. It was completed in 1823. The type of architecture used is Indo-Saracenic, or more simply “Indian Gothic”!

The complex was later abandoned by Victoria, who longed for a place away from prying eyes – she found this in the Isle of Wight and without use the palace was sold to the city. During the First World War the pavilion became a field hospital for sick and wounded Indian servicemen and later limbless British soldiers.

Go Shopping in the Lanes

The narrow medieval street layout of Brighton’s old town has given the Lanes its charm. This collection of brightly colored shops is sandwiched in narrow alleys giving way to the occasional square of small public place. It was once the heart of the old impoverished fishing village of Brighthelmston, but looks nothing of the sort today.

This is a great place to stop by a restaurant for a quick pint and a bite to eat. When you are done you can explore the many antique and craft stores located nearby.

Check Out Historic Buildings, Streets and Famous Hotels!

Near the Victoria pier you will find the hotel that started it all… the Royal Albion Spa. Built in 1826, this regency era masterpiece is a commanding waterfront presence.

Directly behind it is Old Steine Gardens, a Victorian public space with an imposing fountain, war memorial and cafe surrounded by lovely homes.

The main thoroughfare in Brighton is Queen Street. Leading from the Train Station to the waterfront, it offered my first look at the city. Although an important road, I recommend turning on Duke road from Queen. The area leading from Queen to the town hall is where you will find the majority of Brighton’s best restaurants and bars. Like many of Brighton’s buildings it dates from the 19th century (1832 to be precise). It currently is home to the City Police Museum, as it once held several detention cells.

In the lanes you will find the Hotel du Vin, a cute Georgian building with a portico hearkening back to the city’s era as a fishing village as well as the Queens Hotel, possibly the prettiest building in the city and constructed right on the sea for the best views.

Have a Fish and Chip by the Sea

Maybe it was the hangover hunger cravings, or maybe I just had a deep longing something plain, but the fish and chips here are very good. Much better than in London!

Marvel at the Georgian Terraces

This beach town is renowned for its colorful Georgian era townhouses. The terraced style was developed in the 17th century and consists of a series of three or four houses constructed in a similar style. You will find them sprawling in every direction and add a charming touch to the beach town.

Walk Down the Victorian Era Brighton Palace Pier

Built off of the Old Steine roadway, running north from a roundabout, this pier is actually the third to be constructed in the city but the last one still standing. Built opposite to the Royal Albion Hotel, it stands as the most important monument to times past. Greeting visitors at its base is a large clock, a symbol of the city.

This pier replaced the one famous Chain Pier, which collapsed in 1896. Completed in 1899 it soon began operation and was known as a major entertainment area.

After damage to the structure during the 1970’s the old theater was replaced with an arcade and an amusement park with rides installed, thus changing the appearance and function of the historic pier.

Have a Night Out on the Town

You will find a pub on very corner of Brighton’s downtown. I will spare you the specifics on what bars are best (mostly because I experienced the nightlife in such a state that names would escape me). Book a pub crawl or just walk around, the establishments will be friendly to your dollar and the locals keen to talk to you. The only recommendation I will give is a daytime visit to the Regency Tavern. This elegant Georgian style building will be waiting to greet you inside with a regency era decor. Alternatively you can loose yourself in one of the many bars on the Palace Pier to catch a sunset.

Conclusion

Brighton proved to be the perfect end to my three months of traveling in 2017. I can’t turn back time, nor would I want to but this was a weekend I wish I could re-enact! A perfect end to a perfect trip for a weary yet confident traveler!