Břeclav – A Short Train Stop In Southern Moravia
Ok, I’ll admit it this one is a little out of left field. I was on my way to Brno from Vienna and I had a transfer here, which I exchanged for a later train. I had seen a picture of the ruined town castle and figured a walk wouldn’t hurt. It was pretty cool so I don’t regret it!
Table of Contents
Geography
Divided in half by the Thaya River, this small Moravian city is located near the (although not officially) part of the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape. This was the Liechtensteins family’s pet project where they built magnificent palaces over the course of the 19th century. It may have something to do with the fact that Břeclav is situated in the Lower Morava Valley lowland, which happens to be in the warmest part of the country.
On the south-east side of the Thaya River you will find the train station and almost directly to the north-west the castle.
A Brief History
The town’s name likely comes from the Czech name of the castle owner, Duke Bretislav I.
Great Moravia and Bohemia
Slavs would settle in Bohemia during the 6th century. Once of these tribes the Czechs, would join the Slovak Great Moravian Empire. It was an important sentiment then but abandoned by the 10th century, long after Bohemia was pried away from Moravia.
Renaissance and Habsburg Rule
The manor house and city rebounded under the Czech Zierotins familly, but this new golden age ended after the Battle of White Mountain and the manor was confiscated by the Habsburgs. The manor fell into ruin before being purchased by the Liechtensteins in 1638. The city however was not so lucky and did not develop again until the railway from Brno to Vienna was built two hundred years later and it would outgrow its agricultural roots.
Czechoslovakia, World Wards and Modern Era
The majority Czech town was forced into Nazi Germany before the Second World War. The Germans exterminated the city’s Jewish community and the Germans were forced out after the war.
What to do in Břeclav
Just outside the train station you will find a large public park with a chapel as well as some strange public art.
The is little left of the heritage housing stock but a few gems remain. These include the former synagogue. It seems rather odd for a town that’s mentioned as far back as Břeclav is from 1046. Like the loss of the Jewish community, the war took its toll on the town. You will notice a few modern churches that have unfortunately replace the old ones. I’m looking at you Church of Saint Wenceslaus.
Although a little out of the way, to the west of the city you have a sublime example of a masonry church, the Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary. This was another work of Prince Jan II. of Liechtenstein, who commissioned much of the sculpture work you see in the today. Much of these outlying areas are home to old villas or varying architectural value.
As you approach the castle you will get a chance to view the ruined Vránův mlýn (mill), a remint of a long departed industry.
Finally you will come face to face with the stunning, but ruined, neogothic manor house. Apparently, you can go up to the top of the observation tower but I was not afforded that opportunity during my visit so I cannot confirm if this is true. The Liechtenstein family renovated the building in first half of the 19th century, cementing the structures current form. It is a very cool building, possibly because it stands partially in ruins, a romantic shamble of an otherwise forgotten era!
In the lands behind the castle , you will find several breweries (Pivovar) with beer gardens!
On your way back to the train station make sure to hit T.G Masaryk square to see a statue of the Czechoslovak founder.
Conclusion
Although not a typical travel destination, this small city can offer the traveler a charming afternoon out in the sun, especially if tired out from visiting the big cities.
