Bratislava – Coronation City
I arrived in the city of Bratislava on a grey Easter weekend. From the outskirts, the city looked much of the grim eastern city I had imagined. Recovering from years of communist neglect, Bratislava was dealt a difficult hand. The city once known as Pressburg, a place that once hosted the coronation of Austrian Kings, became known for its decaying grey apartment blocks in communist years. These tenements located on the west bank of the Danube river, opposite from the Old Town, was the butt end of the “Eastern Europe” gag in the 2004 teen comedy movie Eurotrip. Although funny the gag was rather unfair considering that Bratislava’s colorful Old Town is actually quite nice. Hollywood continued its public onslaught with the movie Hostel in 2005. In this movie tourists are brutally slain and tortured while vacationing in the city. These movies did much to hurt the city’s image and tourism plummeted. For the small capital between Budapest and Vienna, already passed over for those larger centers, this was a low blow. Although Bratislava does not evoke the same longing as the two other centers, it has always dumbfounded me how people will skip out on Bratislava when it is not far from either.
2022 Update
Upon my 2022 revisiting of the city I retract my comment. Bratislava is actually not glum at all, in summer the city really comes alive and surely is one of the quaintest small capitals in Europe. My esteem for both the friendly Slovak people and their capital (but not just their capital, the countryside is lovely) only continues to grow. I guess I just picked a bad weekend on my first visit!
Table of Contents
A Geographical Snippet
Bratislava, the modern capital of Slovakia, is located on a large bend on the Danube River. It has the unfortunate distinction of being sandwiched between the Danubian cities of Austria and Budapest. These two national capitals remain some of the most important European centers and the empires that they once led have controlled the political administration of Bratislava (as well as the rest of Slovakia) over the centuries. The city is also one of the youngest capitals in the European union, gaining its status after the breakup of Czechoslovakia after the end of the Cold War. Finally Bratislava is one of the smallest capital cities in the EU. This has led to the neglect of the average tourist towards other urban centers. All that being said the situation is quickly changing and the tourism industry is now booming.
The eastern bank of the river holds a district called Petržalka, it is mostly known for its gruesome history and communist towers, but more on that subject shall be discussed later in this post. Petržalka has the distinction of being built along a point bar that is formed around the Danube bend, the only land in Slovakia located on the east side of the Danube. Hence the district is located directly beside the Austrian and Hungarian borders, surrounded and alone in a foreign land. The western bank of the Danube holds the Old Town of Bratislava. It is located just south of a hill where the white walled castle overlooks the town.
A Brief History
Bratislava has a long history dating back to the Neolithic Era, however like much of the Danube river cities it would not come into its own until the medieval ages.
Antiquity
Bratislava first took shape as a small Celtic settlement called Oppidum in 200 B.C. This town was known for its silver mint. The Roman’s took over the town as part of its Danubian Limes defense system, whereby frontier towns like Bratislava along the Danube were fortified as a protection against barbarian incursions. During this period the town began a long tradition of wine making. A roman encampment called Gerulta was built on the right side of the Danube River.
Slavic Incursions
Roman legions retreated from their position on the Danube at the end of the 5th century A.D. The town became an important center during the great Slavic migration. Its new name was Brezalauspurc. It first became part of Samo’s empire, the first Slavic kingdom and then later, the kingdom of Greater Moravia – a country known today as Bohemia or the Czech Republic.
Hungarian and Austrian Era
Bratislava was taken by the Kingdom of Hungary during the battle of Pressburg in 907. It then took the name Pozsony. Under Hungarian guidance the town quickly grew, becoming a free royal city in 1405. During the 16th century the kingdom began to disintegrate under repeated pressure from the Ottoman Turks. In 1526, after the Hungarian loss at the Battle of Mohács, the city came under siege. The remnants of the Hungarian lands were split between the Turks and the Habsburgs (Austrians). With the old coronation site of Hungary Esztergom along with the capital of Buda occupied by the Turks there was a need to find a new coronation site for the Hungarian Kings. Bratislava with its doubled walls and a history of successful resistance during sieges became an attractive location. In 1536 it was declared the capital of Habsburg Hungary and by 1543 it was the site of the coronation of Kings at St. Martin’s Cathedral. The Hungarian crown was now claimed by Austria and they were in no rush to relinquish it!
Bratislava hit its apex with the crowning of Austrian Queen Maria Theresa, becoming the largest city in Hungarian lands. This was to be the last coronation the city would witness, as her son Joseph II moved the crown jewels to Vienna and many government offices were relocated to Buda. This loss in importance coincided with the rise of Slovak nationalism within the city limits. At the time Bratislava was a multi-ethnic town with many of the inhabitants being trilingual speaking German, Slovak and Hungarian.
In 1805 the Treaty of Pressburg was signed in Bratislava after a humiliating defeat for the Austrians at the hands of the French, under Napoleon. In 1809, only a few years later, Napoleon returned to Slovakia and destroyed nearby Devin Castle. This castle was an important Slovak fortification dating from Moravian times, located on the Danube River. The rest of the 19th century was a time of great social progress. The city was served by railways, banks as well as other institutions for the first time and after the Revolutions of 1848, serfdom was abolished in the Austrian Empire. This also marks a time of Hungarian per-eminence in the city, going so far as to join the Hungarian revolutionaries in 1848.
First World War, Second World War and the Cold War
In 1919, as the dust settled on the First World War, the city was captured by Czechoslovak legions. The legions and the local Hungarian population clashed and a fierce firefight ensued. This marked the end of Hungarian life in Bratislava, as many ethnic Hungarians decided to leave the city along with their retreating army. Before the war the Slovaks were an ethnic minority in their own capital city, this was rapidly rectified as many Slovaks emigrated to their new city from the countryside, moving into the tenements of former German and Hungarian inhabitants. The name Bratislava would officially become part of the Slovak lexicon at this time.
During the Anschluss nearby Austria was annexed as well as the defensive mountain area of Czechoslovakia called the Sudetenland. The republic fell apart and Bratislava became part of an independent Slovak state. This state was on good terms with the Nazi regime and immediately sent a large part of Bratislava’s jews to concentration camps. In 1944, the city was bombed by the allied air force and with the Russians coming the remaining German defenders fled.
Communist rule in Bratislava saw the completion many large construction projects, these include eyesores like the Most SMP Bridge. Despite their ugly brutalist nature, they have become iconic parts of the skyline, so much so that many that can still be seen today. Bratislava has the distinction of becoming one of the foremost important anti-communist resistance centers during Prague Spring and the Velvet Revolution. Slovakia became its own republic in 1993.
Despite its slow economic start at independence, Slovakia is turning things around and the economy is now booming. Between my 2017 and 2022 visits I noticed rapid economic progress, especially in the capital! Bratislava’s skyline is quickly evolving and the city has a bright future ahead of it.
Fun Fact: Believe it or not the Velvet Revolution actually began in Bratislava, a fact that is often forgotten by Czechs but is worth noting!
Things to do in Bratislava
Bratislava lacks the endless number of activities that larger cities can provide. Still there is more than enough to do for a weekend. For any traveller, a trip to Bratislava has to start in the Old Town.
Coronation Way
Every year Bratislava hosts a summer festival dedicated to the coronation of the Hungarian Kings. The events celebrates the crowning of a different historic king every year and imitates his procession though the city. If you don’t have the privilege of attending this event, look out for metal plaques with crowns embedded in the cobblestones, the direction of the crown indicates the direction of the royal party. For any tourist, you should enter the city much like a Hungarian Monarch would have during his coronation. The Monarch would have made his way down from the castle (or alternatively the Archbishop’s Palace) though the Vydricka Gate no (longer in existence) to St. Martin’s cathedral. Here the crown of St. Stephen (the crown of Hungary) was placed on the Hungarian Kings head. The Austrian Hapsburg dynasty wore the Hungarian Crown as a formality, during their rule. This continued until the Austrian Kingdom became a dual Monarchy. Once crowned the monarch would proceed to parade around the old town before stopping at the main square where he would meet at town hall with the city dignitaries. He would proceed to the Franciscan square to meet the Hungarian Nobility. Finally the new monarch would exit the city though Michael’s Gate to SNP Square, where he would make an oath to be faithful to his people. He would end his journey at the Danube river, wave his sward at the cardinal points and swear to defend his kingdom form all direction. I have structured my post to follow the coronation route.
The Castle
You should start your first day in Bratislava on Castle Hill. This white rectangular building that you see at the top today is built in baroque style and dates from the 10th century, although occupation of the site can be traced to the prehistoric times. The site was an important one for the Slavic kingdom of Great Moravia, the precursor to Slovakia. Before Hungarian and Austrian rule it housed an important Moravian basilica. The building has seen significant changes since its inception, including a transformation from a purely defensive Hungarian building to a baroque palace under Austrian rule. This major change took place under Austrian Empress Maria Theresa, who in 1740 promised her Hungarian subjects that she would have a residence in both countries, cue the construction of Pressburg Castle. Hence the castle remodel, a defensive building could not serve this important royal function. Maria’s son, Joseph II, abolished the dual residency and ended the tradition of the Pressburg crowning. No longer of any use the castle lost considerable importance and lay almost in abandon.
In 1811 the castle was bombarded by Napoleon. Gutted by fire the castle fell into disrepair. It was not reconstructed from its ruins until 1957. Today it offer a commanding view of the Danube River, including views of Austria, Hungary and Petržalka. Be sure to check out the Rococo (Baroque) interior and the beautiful courtyard gardens. On your way down the road to the old town as part of Coronation Way you will see Sigismund Gate, the oldest part of the complex named after the Hungarian king of the same name. Also check out the temple of St. Nicholas a decaying church on the castle hill.
The Old Town
Separating the castle from the old town is a communist monstrosity of a highway, connected with one of the ugliest bridges I have ever seen, the Bratislava UFO Bridge. Although it looks like a Brutalist Millennium Falcon startling the Danube, it does offer a viewing deck for those who would like to take pictures. From the castle side of the old town you can view the last remaining portion of the cities double wall and St. Martin’s Cathedral, just barely saved from the wreaking ball. The highway was once an attractive boulevard circling around the old town, on each side were attractive buildings. To make way for the bridge the communist destroyed the old Bratislava synagogue and countless heritage structure and due to the heavy vibration caused by truck traffic the church began to deteriorate. To reach the old town you must take an underpass just south of the cathedral, this is where the old Vydrica Gate was located.
Just due north is the cathedral itself. It was the coronation site of Hungarian kings between 1563 and 1830, 11 kings were crowned in this time. On your way to the church you will have noticed an attractive green square with many trees this is Hviezdoslav Square where you can find the Hans Christian Andersen Statue. At the end of the Square stands the Slovak National Theater. Built in 1920, it is considered to be an important symbol for the country. This is largely due to the fact that the theater was one of the first monuments of national importance built after Czechoslovakia took control of the city following the First World War. The excellent and worthwhile Bratislava walking tour runs from this location.
Just two blocks to the north of the theater is the Main Square. On your way to the square, you will pass the iconic “Man at Work” statue, so keep a lookout for it as the little man is easy to miss. The “Man at Work” in question is in fact peering out of a fake manhole! The main square is the most attractive public place in the city and features the oldest fountain in the city. It was built after the coronation of Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II. During his coronation a deadly fire burned down the old town and due to the lack of water authorities could not do much to stop it. The fountain was built to commemorate this event and provide water for future fires. The old town hall has a distinctive tower and now serves as a local history museum.
Behind the town hall is a pink neoclassical building called the Primates Palace. This building is where many important European agreements of the 19th century were signed including the fourth Peace of Pressburg. For those interested in the building check out the magnificent Hall of Mirrors. It was designed by József Batthyány, primate cardinal of Hungary and now serves at the city hall, meetings sometimes being held in the Hall of Mirrors. In the 20th century hidden Flemish tapestries were found and are now displayed. It has been speculated by some (and I have no idea if it is true) that they were hidden from Napoleon’s troops when they came to the Primates palace, due to the looting of European art after his conquests.
Finally continue roaming the old town until you hit St. Micheal’s gate to the north. This is the last remaining town gate and one of the most attractive sights in the country. If you would like a great view of the old town, take a view from the top of the spire.
If you have the time, stop and eat at a local restaurant. Due to Slovakia’s complex history, there are dishes from all over central Europe available, including Hungarian Goulash, Austrian (German) Schnitzel and Local Specialties like Tripe Soup.
Statues
Many cheeky statues can be found spread around the old town. The most famous of them is the Man at Work Statue featuring a laborer poking out of a manhole. Others include a peeping paparazzi, a leaning Napoleonic soldier and a statue of Danish author Hans Christian Andersen along with some of his fantastic creations. The last statue is an odd one since the author only visited Bratislava once, in 1841.
Outside the Old Town
Just outside Michel’s gate, north of the old town, you will find a large square with a working fountain. along with the Presidential Palace (Grassalkovich Palace). The neoclassical building is the focal point of the public space. Behind it you will find the the Summer Archbishop’s Palace, no longer serving in that capacity. These buildings are both now government offices.
After you are done looking around the presidential palace make your way around back to check out Námestie Slobody. This square dates from the communist era and used to feature a statue of Gottwald, the Stalinist dictator of Slovakia and one of the most hated figures in the country’s history. The statue was torn down after independence but the strange fountain at the center of the square remains while the circular concrete footprint of the square remains as an eerie reminder of his rule. The previously mentioned Summer Archbishop’s Palace is located at the back of this square.
One last place to check out on the coronation way is the Námestie SNP, as mentioned in the coronation itinerary. I had some craft beers with locals in the sitting park triangular area.
The most important sight outside of the old town is the so called “Blue Church”, it is one that all walking tours will stop at. The real name of the structure is the”Church of St. Elizabeth”, a former Hungarian denominational structure it is known for its soothing baby blue colour. Although it did not know it at the time, the intricate design is a great example of Art Nouveau style, something I would not truly appreciate until I visited Riga. It is located in the eastern suburb, adjacent to the old town.
Finally if you wish to learn more about communist times in Slovakia, venture across the UFO bridge to the other side of the Danube. The endless horde of prefabricated and uniform buildings are truly oppressive and make for a unique Cold War experience
Slavín
Built on a hill behind the castle, Slavin sits at the center of a neighbourhood steeped in history. It is set in a wealthy district of the city, in which many embassies have established a footholds in the old villas dating from the Austro-Hungarian period. There is also a stock of interwar housing mixed in with the newer edifices of the Slovak nouveau riche. Alexander Dubček, the Slovak politician who was deposed as Czechoslovak leader after his role in trying to reform the system leading to the Prague Spring, lived here in exile of public life. He lived in a modern structure, where the promise of his rule faded as the Soviets bore down on the Czechs and Slovaks, a beloved but tragic figure if there ever was one.
From its lofty heights you will have a great views of the city, including the castle below.
Slavin itself is a memorial dedicated to the Soviet “Liberation” of the Slovak lands. As such it houses the graves of 6,845 Soviet soldiers who died in battle. Again my first instinct is to spit on Soviet graves but I did refrain from doing so, no sense in causing an international incident. Built in 1960, the space revolves a central obelisk on a colonnaded base. The structure mesures 39 meters in high, and is topped by an 11-metre tall statue, crafted by Alexander Trizuljak, of a Soviet soldier carrying a flag. Around the base are inscribed the names many Slovak cities “liberated” by the Soviets in 1944 and 1945.
Conclusion
Although I would not spend a full week in Bratislava, do make sure to spend a weekend in the city and experience the pulsing Slovak nightlife. During my first evening here, I attempted to karaoke in Slovak and I had a whole bar full of people laugh at me, then I thought maybe I should hit a club and party like in the movie Eurotrip. Just remember when you have seen the city, and need a break from the nightlife head out into the Slovak countryside and experience the wild untamed heartland of the country. The Slovak heartland is home to the Western Carpathians, an authentic area with historic villages, thick forest, vertigo inspiring mountain castles and stunning views. Slovakia may be small but there is a lot to do!
