Berchtesgaden and the Eagles Nest – A Sublime Bavarian Town with a Shameful Nazi Connection

Sitting in a lush green valley in the Austrian Alps, Berchtesgaden’s pristine appearance as the model alpine town can be deceiving. A Nazi stronghold, crowned by the famed Eagles Nest – a home owned by that damned political party – its beauty is complicated by this sordid tale of political adherence.

Yet a visitor to the town today has a lot to gain by visiting it. Here natural beauty and history intersect to make for a perfect day trip either from Salzburg or Munich. For those of you who cant get enough it is also a great base to go hiking and stay overnight!

Table of Contents

• Geography
• A Brief History of the Region
• Visit Obersalzberg
• Riding Up to the Eagles Nest
• The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus)
• Berchtesgaden
• Berchtesgaden Salt Mine
• Conclusion

Geography

Sandwiched between the Bavarian alps, this town is headlined by the twin peaks of the Watzmann mountain and Königssee lake to the south west.

The high alpine region is home to a national park of the same name with great views of the surroundings offered at every corner.

A Brief History of the Region

Just like its neighbours, Berchtesgaden starting off as a salt mining town. Although the town dates back to at least the 12th century, its primary resource did not begin extraction until 1517. It served as a Provostry of the Holy Roman Empire, similar to the Prince Bishopric that existed in neighbouring Salzburg. The city was ceded to Austria after the Treaty of Pressburg in 1805.

The city was incorporated into the German state of Bavaria only five short years later in 1810, where it has remained ever since. It was for a time a favourite residence of the Bavarian monarchy and under their rule the town became a calm refuge for artists, especially painters but also authors including Ludwig Ganghofer. The era of leisure would also see the town become a tourist destination.

The town’s unsavoury association, that with the Nazi party began when Hitler started to vacation here in the 1920’s. He installed himself in his house, the Berghof, in the Obersalzberg neighbourhood above the town. This area, built on the side of the Hoher Goll mountain, would see other Third Reich “luminaries” (couch, cough… monsters!), such as Hermann Göring, Joseph Goebbels, Martin Bormann, Heinrich Himmler, and Albert Speer. These fascist suck-ups installed themselves near the Führer. From here on, the party began to purchase land in Obersalzberg.

Visit Obersalzberg

Speaking of which, driving here today, those Nazi homes are almost all gone and land that was confiscated has been returned to its original owners. In their place the Dokumentation Obersalzberg museum and Bunkeranlage Obersalzberg have been created. The first looks at the history of the Nazi’s in the area and the second allows visits to secret tunnels built by the party.

Riding Up to the Eagles Nest

From the Documentation Center in Obersalzberg, a bus will take you up to the Eagles Nest, an alpine retreat on a steep precipice at the summit of summit of Kehlstein soaring high above the region at an elevation of 1,834 meters (6,017 ft). Contrary to popular belief this was not Hitler’s home but one owned by the party and gifted to him for his own use. The structure is accessed by treacherous road that take you on a wild ride up to a tunnel and elevator room. Alternatively, you can head up on foot but it is a two hour hike.

Ironically, the man who thought he was destined to conquer the world couldn’t conquer his fear of heights. Something that I found funny is that they had to seat him backwards so that he would not look up!

The bus ride up was filled with grouchy elderly people (like much of Salzburg and Berchtesgaden!) and I quickly realized I was the only under thirty one there… and these were not the fun wine drinking degenerate grandparents either. Despite being scolded for my excitement, the drive up was magnificent and thrilling!

For the record I’m all about mixed age tourism, too many people of the same age is never fun.

Once the bus drops you off you will be shepherded into a large train like tunnel leading under the eagles nest to the gold pated elevators.

The long tunnels is a marvel, especially when you see the crowds clear out and get to admire its length.

The Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus)

After existing the elevator you will be up in the house, its actual name in German being the Kehlsteinhaus. The house was commissioned by Martin Bormann in 1937 and was visited by Adolf the Fearful 14 times during his life. Due to his dislike of heights these were not pleasant for him. It most mostly used for Nazi social gatherings and meetings. Due to its high elevation many workers were loss during its construction.

In 1945 the 101st Airborne infantrylaid claim to the Kehlsteinhaus. If you look closely at the fireplace mantle, you will find a piece missing, taken as a souvenir just like Hitler’s photo album.

While a full service kitchen exists inside, on the outside of the house you will find a beer garden.

Above the house you will find a lookout point where a cross with a edelweiss flower is currently situated. This alpine flower grows high in the alps and is a symbol of devotion.

This trail leads from the Kehlsteinhaus to the Mannlgrat ridge and eventually the summit of the Hoher Göll.

In front of the structure you will find a pathway with incredible views of the green valley below.

For those with time make sure to walk around the property. The views are incredible especially while the wildflowers are blooming.

Berchtesgaden

The town of Berchtesgaden is not particularly large but it is pretty! That is with the caveat of excluding the House of the Mountains near its center, the new convention center that ruins some of the old town charm.

It is small old town is filled with colourful buildings and a few shops as well as places to eat. Up in the hills are larger cottages and homes.

As you wind your way though the streets you will eventually notice the twin towers of the Collegiate Church of St. Peter and John the Baptist, part of the Royal Castle in Berchtesgaden.

Just before the castle, heading east, you will find a historic medieval square called the Marktplatz. Once the domain of the town’s merchant class, it houses a fountain and the Hirschenhaus, a 1596 building that sports a stunning fresco.

Heading east towards the castle you will pass under two archways.

Revealing itself in all its glory will be the royal castle. Originally part of a monastery complex it was annex by the Bavarian monarchy when the nation was secularized. In 1810 they made it their summer residence. On a mural nearby some depictions of the town over the years have been painted.

Behind the castle you will find the baroque St. Andreas in the distance.

On the west side of the town you will find many shops and hotels, as well as resdiential sections, the latter particularly as you head south towards the river and the beautiful covered bridge that traverses it. This is also where you will find the train station.

On the north west side you will find many colored cottages and a pretty church.

Meanwhile due west, then following the main road south, you will find the Franziskanerkloster, or the Fransiscan monastery. The massive building was established in the 15th century and has seen many owners over those years.

Beside it, is a pretty cemetery with views of the mountains as a backdrop.

Berchtesgaden Salt Mine

Along the river, north of town, you will find the old salt mine complex. Although these are littered throughout the region, this one is by far one of the most interesting. The illuminated caverns date from the 16th century and have been retrofitted for a great experience.

Conclusion

Whether you are staying in Salzburg, or spending a night the town, this is a region that is sure to impress. From the high peaks and verdant valleys, to azure streams, it is hard to find fault in the stunning landscape!