Berat – The City of a Thousand Windows
Berat is a central Albanian town with a big reputation. Often referred to as “The City of a Thousand Windows” or alternatively “The City of Two Thousand Steps”, the city is one of the best preserved examples of Ottoman Era military architecture, an honour it gladly shares with its sister city of Gjirokaster to the south. It also shares the distinction of being one of the few citadels still occupied by its inhabitants.
To the typical 19th century traveller, Berat must have been quite the sight. They would enter the town through a narrow river gorge, populated by thousands of houses. Linking both sides of the city was a stunning stone Ottoman bridge. Looking up they would have seen the fortified citadel, located well above the town, watching over its sons and daughters just as it always had. This almost impregnable fortification was the pride of Turkish warlord Ali Pasha who used fortresses like Berat and Gjirokaster to control his kingdom of Epirus. His capital Tepelene was located half way between both.
As a modern day traveller, I was just as impressed when I crossed into the city. My furgon ride from Gjirokaster had been long and to be greeted by this massive old town, built right into both sides of the gorge, was daunting for my weary legs. No matter, the old town is impressive and was more than enough to bear walking on my canker ridden feet
For those interested in visiting the ancient Ottoman towns of Albania, this post should be read in conjunction with my post on the city of Gjirokaster.
Table of Contents
A Little Geography
The city is located on the shores of the Osum river and can be divided in three parts. Kalaja, Mangalem and Gorica. Kalaja makes reference to the citadel city sitting on the mountain, Mangalem is located at the base of the mountain and Gorica, on the left bank of the Osum river. Gorica and Mangalem are linked by an old Turkish bridge. Beyond that the new town occupies what is left of the valley.
A Brief History
Antiquity
The settlement was populated by Greeks in the 6th century BC. It was called Antipatreia. It was successively taken over by both the Macedonians and later the Romans. The roman destroyed the settlement and killed off the male population of the city.
Byzantine Era
With the split of Rome into two halves, the city passed to the Eastern Roman Empire. The Byzantines struggled to hold back the hordes of Slavic tribes that were poring into the Balkans and after several incursions it fell to the Bulgarians (9th century). It was retaken by the Byzantines only to fall again to the Bulgarians in 1203. It was then traded between the Latin Despotate of Epirus, a catholic crusader state formed after the Fourth Crusade, and the Byzantines. In 1335 the region began to be settled by ethnic Albanians before being captured by Serbia. The city continued to be traded hands between minor powers until being incorporated into the Ottoman empire in 1417.
Ottoman Era
The city fended off Albanian national hero Skanderbeg in 1455. Under Ottoman occupation it retained much of its Christian character but that began to change with many conversions taking place in the 17th century. The Ottomans offered more favourable tax policies for its Muslim subjects, as well as forced military service for its Christian subjects. Since Berat was an artisan town, many converted. During this time a sizable Jewish population settled in Berat.
In 1809, Ali Pasha took the town from another Turkish warlord and under his reign the town continued to grow, becoming the largest town in central Albania. In turn Berat became an important center in the Albanian National Revival. Both Berat and Gjirokaster were part League of Prizren, an important gathering of Albanian communes seeking more autonomy.
Modern Era
Berat stagnated after the end of the Ottoman occupation. It remained of relative unimportant during the First World War but the town did regain some status during the Second World War. Christian and Muslim families in the city sheltered Jews away from the fascist authorities and the second session of Council of National Liberation of Albania took place here. Enver Hoxha was elected president and after the war he declared Berat museum city, just like Gjirokaster.
Myths and Legends
According to legend, the Osum river is named after a young woman. This young woman caught the eye of two brothers, the giants, Tomorr and Shpirag. She fell for both giants and met both in secret, Tomorr found out and asked his brother to give up his affair. Shpirag refused and the brother fought, both slaying each other. Shprag is immortalized as the mountain that is home to Mangaleg and Tomorr the mountain that holds Gorica. Osum for her part cried for the brothers and her tear created the Osum river.
Where to stay
I stayed in a lovely old stone hostel in the Gorica district of Berat, called Berat Backpackers. It is located at the top of the the Gorica historic neighbourhood, down a narrow cobblestone street. There is a terrace and comfortable beds. See my Balkans accommodation post here, for more information.
What to do in Berat
Berat is short on things to do, after all it is a small center. It’s charm lies in the beautiful Ottoman architecture, cobblestone streets and decaying monument. Outside of Gjorokaster, there is no other place in the Balkans that can match its inventory of Ottoman structures. I will break down what to do by district.
Gorica
This is the smaller of the three old town districts and, traditionally, a christian area even after much of the rest of the town converted to Islam. The narrow streets are just as impressive as those in Mangalem, while offering a view of the citadel and Mangalem as well.
One one side of the district there is a church dedicated to St. Thomas, I somehow got dragged out to it by a native Berater (Berati? I don’t know) who wanted to show me the church (for money). I didn’t want to but fuck it… it was already too late so I ended up going into the church and seeing 8000 (or so) pictures of saints.
Mangalem
If you fancy some good food, Mangalem is the place to eat. At ground level, where the paved asphalt road meets the inclined cobblestone are some of the best Albanian restaurant in the city.
Mangalem, like Gorica is composed of stone with typical Ottoman exteriors. This is the traditional Muslim quarter of the city. Like Gorica the buildings have many windows, a sign of status and wealth. Mangalem is quite a bit steeper than Gorica and is the more impressive side of the river. You can find the Bachelors Mosque, the ethnographic museum and the Hotel Mangalem in this district. Rruga Mihal Komnena will lead you up to the citadel.
Kalaja
Its a long way up to the citadel but once there the view is unparalleled. You first pass though what is left of the gatehouse to reveal a still inhabited citadel. The population has dropped in recent years, judging by the ruined and abandoned houses but don’t be fooled. This is one of the last remaining inhabited citadels in the world. Every morning you will see the villagers bring down their flock from the mountain and every night they return up with them. Although cars are permitted, you will only see very few up here at these heights.
One of these ruined buildings is the Red Mosque but all that remains are a few walls and a minaret. At one point the citadel was home to 20 churches and a mosque. The walls date from the 13th century but the buildings vary in age.
At the center of the complex at the highest point are the remains of the castle portion of the citadel. They are in relatively good condition. Just bellow the fort, on the south side, make sure to walk down to the outer fortification towers. From here you will find a small St. Theodore’s Church, a wonderfully preserved orthodox shrine.
Once you are done your walk around the complex, make for the eastern edge of the citadel where the circular tower with the Albanian national flag is located. From there you will get a complete view of the valley below. Just as I had peaked at the view of the New Town, the overcast skies opened up and a torrential downpour began. The lightning that came terrified me. It was an impressive orchestra of light with the deafening sounds of thunder and hard rain hitting the ground. The lighting strikes began moving closer and at one point the lighting struck the flagpole. I was now running at full pace, ripping though the citadel. I found makeshift cover when an old lady tending to her shop spotted me and invited me in for tea with her son. It was difficult to communicate due to the language difference to was a very unique experience.
New Town
The new town is rather bland in comparison with the rest of the city. A few buildings that stand out are the Lead Mosque of Berat, named after the metallic rood of the structure and the orthodox cathedral of Saint Demetrius. These can be both found in a public square called Muzaka where a tourism information center is located.
Another building that stands out is the Ex-Berat University. This building cant be missed due to its architecture, it is a large white domed building that looks like a miniature capitol building in Washington. The university of Berat was shut down by the government during a corruption scandal as it was accused of giving out diplomas for cash considerations.
Nightlife
At night, both Gorica and Mangalem are light up in both blue and white from the Osum river for a beautiful effect. This is best observed from above either district.
Most bars close early and the latest hours of operation for such establishments is midnight. Most of the nightlife in Berat revolves around the cafe’s. The most important street for nightlife is located on Boulevardi Rebublika, but I warn you it is a bit odd. After 5pm you will not find a woman on the street. The Dusk hours in Berat are inhabited by a long string of old men sitting on the outdoor terraces and giving you odd looks.
Conclusion
Berat is not London, it’s not Los Angeles, hell… its not even Tirana. Berat is a city that holds no cosmopolitan flair, it’s feet are firmly planted in the old world, one that is disappearing fast. Yet, it holds a certain charm. The faces of Berat are mostly old and worn like leather exposed the rays of the burning sun. The men dress nicely, their Sunday best even, to drink their Rakia at tables along the town promenade. As for the women, they wear headscarves at a time when most Albanian women don’t anymore. The young have deserted the city – but underneath it all the Balkans of Biron remains; One that is wild an untamed as ever. The warlords may be gone but the feeling of freedom and adventure endures. Berat is the Albania of old and may yet be part of the Albania of new if tourism brings in new opportunity. Only time will tell!
