Beijing and the Great Wall – The Forbidden City Welcomes Me

I visited China back in 2012, long before the election of Chinese strongman Xi Jinping. At that time I views the Asian country as a ripe candidate for a slow transition to democracy. Clearly I was wrong, the formally open and transforming Chinese panda has once again begun to shut its doors to the outside world. Still, I cherish the sweet and curious Chinese locals I met during my visit. They have a hard life but still show a joy of life that is refreshing. The people still hold promise and one day I hope that they be granted greater freedoms.

Table of Contents

• Regional Geography
• A Semi-Brief History!
  • Early Imperial History
  • Ming Dynasty Power Center
  • Qing Capital
  • Republic of China and the Modern World
• What to do in Beijing?
  • Release Your Inner Athlete at the Olympic Stadium
  • Visit Tiananmen Square
  • Marvel at the Forbidden City and its Endless Palatial Courtyards (With a stop at the top of Jingshan Park!)
  • Explore the Last Remaining Hutongs
  • Try Peking Duck
  • Walk the Grounds of the Summer Palace and Enjoy the Delightful Gardens Like a Qing Emperor
  • Find Your Inner Spiritualist at the Temple of Heaven
  • Make it Out of the City and Walk Along the Great Wall!
• View Priceless Art
• Visit a Chinese School
• Stop off at Pearl Shop
• Take in Architectural Artifacts from Ming, Qing and Early Imperial Era
  • Ming Tombs:
  • Tianning Temple Pagoda:
  • Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception:
  • Old Summer Palace:
  • Beijing Ancient Observatory:
  • Qianmen Avenue:
  • Bai Ta:
  • Drum Tower:
• Conclusion

Regional Geography

I arrived in Beijing from Canada via the the international airport. I was stunned at the massive newly built (for the Olympics) structure that greeted me. If you were to observe the city from the air you will find it in the north-east corner of China, not far south from the plains of Manchuria. This area is the historic heartland of the Manchu people, one of the important ethnic minorities of ancient China. It is from this region that the Qing Dynasty hails from and as you will see in the history section that dynasty would be China’s last. The Qing themselves are ethnic Manchus and not Han Chinese like the dynasties before them. Hailing from the north, it would be up to them to renovate Great Wall and as one of the first cities to fall to the Qing it would benefit greatly from their rule.

A Semi-Brief History!

From lowly prefecture capital to the center of a great nation, in this section we run down the various stages of Beijing and how it came to be.

Early Imperial History

Although Beijing (Peking) may seem like the logical super city to lead china, it was not always so. Early in its history, when the first Emperor of China unified the country, the city was but a prefecture capital called Jicheng. It suffered an early setback under the Jin dynasty when they moved the prefecture capital to Zhuozhou.

Under the Sui Dynasty, Beijing regained importance as the northern terminus of the Grand Canal, the longest canal in the world and an engineering marvel linking the Yellow River and Yangtze River. Under the Tang the city served as a northern military outpost but under the Later Jin dynasty it was overtaken by Khitan Liao, a mongolic khanate. The city was renamed Nanjing and served as the “Southern Capital”, one of four secondary capitals in their kingdom. The city again fell to the Jin in 1122 but was traded to the Song and retaken shortly after in 1125. The city briefly served as the Jin Capital of a divided China.

In 1213 the city was razed to the ground by the Mongols. It would be rebuilt and served as the capital of a diminished Mongol Chinese state called the Yuan.

Ming Dynasty Power Center

In 1368 the founder of the Ming dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, pushed back the Mongolians and took the city. Under Ming rule it would eventually become co-capital along with Nanjing. During the 15th century the Forbidden City was constructed and the capital city label solidified in Beijing. Much of the ancient sights you will visit in the imperial city date from this era and the city was renamed from Beiping to Beijing.

The new capital was a power center and from the 15th to the 18th century it was the largest city in the world. During the 17th century Christianity was established as a minor religion in Beijing.

Qing Capital

When the Qing dynasty took the reins from the Ming, Beijing became the sole capital of China. The Manchu made very little changes to the Ming city but they did make themselves comfortable building magnificent palaces.

During the Second Opium War the French and British forces took the outer suburbs of the city, burning the old summer palace. The result of the war was the opening of Chinese ports to European trade and the establishing of permanent diplomatic relation in Beijing. China was now open to the western world. In 1900 the Battle of Peking was fought here during the Boxer Rebellion as a reaction to the concessions made during the Opium Wars.

Republic of China and the Modern World

The unpopular and deeply weekended Qing monarchy was deposed during the Xinhai Revolution ushering in the new Republic of China, the capital was returned to Nanjing and China would enter a new and deadly phase in its history. In 1928 Chiang Kai-shek became the head of the Nationalist Chinese nation and had to navigate a difficult path between fighting the CPC (Communist Party of China) and the creeping Japanese encroachment on China’s sphere of influence. At first Korea was invaded and then in 1931, Japan invaded Manchuria the traditional northern heartland of China. This left Beijing exposed and in 1937, the Second Sino-Japanese War erupted and Beijing, along with large swaths of China, was occupied by Japan.

After the Second World War the fight against the Japanese gave way to a continuation of the brutal Chinese civil war. Beijing was finally captured by the communists in 1949 during the final phases of the war. Mao Zedong, one of the most backwards and repressive men in history declared People’s Republic of China from atop the Tian’anmen.In the 1960’s Mao instilled the Cultural Revolution. This program seeked to obliterate the Four Olds; Old Customs, Old Culture, Old Habits, and Old Ideas. To do this he enlisted the Red Guard, militant communist students (similar to Hitler’s Brown Shirts). Schools were shut down and massive purges among the city population began. The Ming Wall was demolished, historic monuments desecrated and wide swaths of the old town were torn down to make way for industry. What was one of the most ascetically pleasing cities quickly became one of the ugliest capitals in the world. On the upside the Beijing subway began construction along with the Second Ring Road. Beijing was becoming a modern city.

This devastation created a reaction among the population. In a popular revolt against the cultural revolution, thousands gathered in Tiananmen Square only to be violently suppressed. The cultural revolution ended with Deng Xiaoping and since then Beijing has seen massive growth.

What to do in Beijing?

Beijing is a massive city and many of the attractions are spread out among many districts. To help you find your way about, we have compiled a list of activities to engage in when you visit the city. You should make sure to see all of the Ming artifacts as they represent the zenith of Beijing’s importance on the word stage.

Release Your Inner Athlete at the Olympic Stadium

After checking into my hotel, I was eager to get moving. It had been a long flight from Canada. A ten minute walk my hotel room was the Olympic complex and so I though what a perfect way to spend my first night in Beijing. On my way to the stadium I was pulled over by a local couple, so I could take a photo with them, I am a 6’3″ man and so I stuck out like a sore thumb and throughout China I was pulled into photos. I gladly obliged, thoroughly entertained!

To access the complex you must make it through a guard house. At this time of the year it is cold for China (it is March). But what is cold for China is warm for me as a Canadian. I’m wearing shorts (of course!) and they are dressed in the full communist guards uniform, with the warm fur hats to boot! There is nobody else there at that time of night. Checking my identification they laugh at me and my shorts, a nice tension reliever from the serious demeanor they project. The Olympic plaza is a massive space that crosses a highway. This is the fourth ring road and the view from the plaza overpass is rather impressive. The two most prominent buildings in this area is the National Stadium, lit up in red at night and the Aquatics Center, lit up in Blue.

Visit Tiananmen Square

At the heart of Beijing, at the southern edge of the forbidden city, is a large open public space synonymous with democracy (or the lack of it). In 1989, a massacre took place where Chinese students were crushed by the communist state but its history goes back much further. A Tiananmen (Gate of Heavenly Peace), is the entryway to the Imperial City, the square is named after such a gate. It was constructed in 1415, under the reign of the Ming Dynasty. It stands at the northern edge of the square and is known for its massive picture of Mao. Before the foul portrait was installed, it was Chien Kai Chek who has his photograph on display.

The square has been privy to many important public declarations throughout the ages, although the appearance of it has change greatly since the imperial era. Much of the old square was reconstructed and enlarged by Mao. He called his new constructions his Ten Great Buildings (should be his Ten Ugly Buildings!) and portraits of Karl Marx, Friedrich Engels, Vladimir Lenin, Joseph Stalin, Sun Yat-sen, and himself were added. At the southern end of the square you will find an obelisk, the Monument to the People’s Heroes and another Mao artifact, his Mausoleum. Flanking it are the National Museum of China and the Great Hall of the People.

Marvel at the Forbidden City and its Endless Palatial Courtyards (With a stop at the top of Jingshan Park!)

North of the Tiananmen is a public space with a ritual temple. Past it is a large moat, surrounded by thick walls and ornamental towers. Inside these walls you will find the Forbidden City.

Greeting you will be the Meridian gate, a massive structure crossing the moat.

From here imagine yourself a diplomat from medieval Europe or a petty Asiatic kingdom, on route to Beijing hoping to meet the emperor. After passing though the Tiananmen, foreign dignitaries would enter an endless and imposing series of courtyards and palaces. This is a place built to impress. Its grandeur is intended (by design) and is meant to intimidate the visitor, instilling respect and maybe even fear. After passing the gate you will enter the first of many courtyards. These open areas are vast and wind swept, they make those wandering it feel small, again relating to the theme of intimidation.

Construction on the complex began in 1406. From 1420 it 1924 it served as the residence of the emporor. It contians over 980 buildings and over 72 hectares. After the revolt of 1924, and the transition towards a nationalist republic, where it was turned into the palace museum. Construction took over 14 years and required over a million laborers.

Be on the lookout for the painting of the Qianlong Emperor (featured later in this post), this priceless piece of art is a hybrid of both European and Asian styles.

Be sure to stop off at the concubine quarter, where the emporor kept his harem of women (up to 10 000). The offspring with these women were often elevated to important positions withing the imperial court.

After visiting the endless series of courtyards be sure to pass though the 17th century the Gate of Divine Prowess to climb up Jingshan Park. This 57 acre park on a hill offers sublime views of the palatial complex.

Explore the Last Remaining Hutongs

Beijing is a modern metropolis and it can sometimes feel like there is very little left of the old imperial city. As such you should make it your mission to visit the Hutongs, the last remaining traditional neighborhoods of Beijing. They are known for their concentric design, narrow alleys and communal courtyards. Most buildings are low rise and made of grey masonry. The best way to visit them is by rickshaw. These man powered bicycle carts will give you a quick overview of the neighbourhood and can be had for cheap.

Since the 1950’s much of the wealthier residents moved into newer suburbs and the Hutongg were left to demolition and neglect. Fortunately things are changing and the tiny Hutong houses are becoming hipster paradises. This gentrification is slowly saving the Hutong but is changing the character of the neighborhood. Come see it before many of the local residents move out!

Try Peking Duck

My favorite Chinese delicacy shares a name with the capital city, as previously mentioned Peking is the old name of Beijing. For those of you who have tried duck, you will realize that it is a fatty meat, especially if you have it as a cold cut as is customary in many parts of China. After 65 days the duck killed. Then it is roasted and prepared in a way that emphasizes the taste as well sell as the presentation of the skin, seasoned and crispy. It is presented with as much skin and with as little meat as possible. The tradition dates from the fourteenth century, when it was prepared for the Yuan Emperor of China. The dish is considered a national symbol of the country.

Walk the Grounds of the Summer Palace and Enjoy the Delightful Gardens Like a Qing Emperor

When examining the Qing Legacy in Beijing, one building springs immediately to mind, the Summer Palace. Built around the entirely man made 2.2km Kunming Lake, the complex is one of the most impressive Qing buildings in chine. At the time of my visit, in March 2012 the lake was entirely frozen and as such the rock and greenery gardens were not the focus of my visit.

In 1749, the Qianlong Emperor began construction on the palace. As is typical of these buildings, extensive rock gardens and statues were added as well. Like most buildings in Beijing, you enter though a covered portico.

The palace itself is meant to represent several natural and man made attraction from around china. The construction of the palace lake was based on the legend of the three sacred hill, represented by three islands.

The centerpiece of the palace is the lake itself. To its side is Longevity Hill where the majority of the palace buildings have been constructed. Near its peak stands the monumental Foxiang Ge, or tower of Buddhist incence. At the peak you will find the Paiyun Dian (Hall of Dispelling Clouds). Renovated in 1892 it became the place where Empress Dowager Cixi received guests.

At the base of the hill you will find once of the strangest, most perplexing, yet compelling pieces in the complex, a stone boat. As the name would suggest it was constructed from stone in 1755 and reconstructed in 1860 after being damaged during the Second Opium War. Ironically Empress Dowager Cixi embezzled funds earmarked for building an actual Chinese navy to built a useless stone boat.

Be sure to check out the The Wenchang Pavilion before you leave.

Find Your Inner Spiritualist at the Temple of Heaven

Another Ming masterpiece, the temple of heaven is built at the base of what is today a massive public park. Here you will find many of Beijing’s rapidly increasing population of elderly citizens engaging in games of badminton, Tai Chi, Mahjong and even Dominoes (sitting in the covered walkway leading to the temple). The residents of China are often forced retire early to allow younger people to take their place in the workforce, as such many have found clever ways to pass the time.

The dominoes mentioned earlier take place in a long covered walkway to the side. I could not believe the sheer number of people smoking cigarettes and playing dominoes…. I mean dominoes! You would think by the look of things that it was the 1950’s.

The Temple itself dates from 1420 and began construction during the reign of the Yongle Emperor, the first of the Ming Dynasty. Construction took place alongside the Forbidden City. To the south of the temple is Danbi Bridge, a stone walkway leading to the temple itself.

The central cylindrical structure contains symbolism linking the heavens to the earth. The circular shape represent the heavens while the rectangular base represents the earth. The structure is supported by four dragon pillars, each representing a season.

Make it Out of the City and Walk Along the Great Wall!

North of Beijing, past the manchurian plains, you will find a long chain of mountains. It is here that the Emperors of Northern China decided to construct their defenses against the invading barbarian hordes from the steppes of Mongolia and central Asia. From the mountain top you will observe an endless series of towers stretch out as far as the eye can see, the wall zigzagging up and down as it does. These section of wall are eventually rejoined at a evenly spaces bastions, fortified outpost to house men and material, much like a larger scale recreation of the Roman constructed Hadrian’s wall.

The length of the wall is estimated to have been 21,196 km (13,171 mi). It began construction from 221 BC under the Qin Emperor and beilt of stone and rammed earth. This was all expanded and thoroughly renovated under the Han Dynasty where it would reach its largest extent.

This wall extended from Korea east along the western length of the Silk Road to the inhospitable reaches of the Gobi desert and terminated near Yumen Pass, the location of the Jade Gate. This allowed the Chinese to extract bountiful levies as well as protecting trade.

The section of the wall you see today (in most pictures) dates from the Ming Era when the wall was renovated and reinforced. Unlike the decaying earthen mounds of walls found in western china, the Ming wall is built of stone and in much better shape. This wall in itself is a feat of engineering, 8,850 km of high grade stone work rebuilding over the existing fortifications. The construction began in the 14th century, when the threat of Mongol expansion and raids from the north was ever present in the mind of the Chinese Nation. This construction stopped again under the Qing Dynasty when the boundaries of China were pushed further north.

From Beijing the most visited section of the wall is located in the Mutian Valley, this is the section I visited. For those interested Jinshanling is another section that tourist flock to.

From the base of the wall, you generally have a steep climb upwards. The renovated section will end after a few hours of walking but if you want to hop the fence and continued that is your prerogative (I did). In this part of the wall you should watch out for loose stones.

View Priceless Art

As an imperial capital, Beijing has always been at the center of the Asian art world. This is reflected in the ancient rock sculptures and the usual palace fare. But Chinese art has come a long way since then. During the years of European exploration eastern and western painting styles often mingled creating a unique variety of Art. A good example of this blending of styles is a piece I saw at a Beijing gallery depicting a young (29 years old) Qianlong Emperor dressed in his ceremonial armor while on horseback. The piece was created by Giuseppe Castiglione, a Portuguese jesuit, that lived in China. He is considered to be a master of this style.

Due to Beijing’s fractured 20th century history, a wealth of contemporary galleries have cropped up in courtyards or structures in old industrial area’s of the city. They are worth a look.

Visit a Chinese School

During your visit to the city, you will find a few several tourism schools open for visits from tourist. This presents an interesting opportunity to interact with young Chinese students. This is also an opportunity to learn about the difficult and vexing art of Chinese calligraphy.

Stop off at Pearl Shop

In Beijing, you will have the chance to purchase authentic river grown pearls. China has a long history of pearl production and purchases of these fine quality products can be authenticated though government certificates.

Take in Architectural Artifacts from Ming, Qing and Early Imperial Era

The capital has a large assortment of attractions spread across its area. If you still wish to visit a few more attractions during your stay in Beijing. I would recommend the following.

Ming Tombs:

This collection of underground tombs makes for a unique look at Beijing. Built into the southern slope of a mountain based on the principles of Feng Shui, it contains the mausoleums of 13 emperors. Missing from these is the tomb of the first Ming emperor, buried in Nanjing.

Tianning Temple Pagoda:

Once of the few artifacts surviving from the early imperial era, this 8 sided and 13 story, temple dates from 1120 during the reign of the Liao dynasty. It is a Buddhist temple. Its look inspired the construction of the Pagoda of Cishou Temple. An almost exact replica. For your money go see the original!

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception:

Founded in 1605, this Roman Catholic place of worship is better known to locals as the Xuanwumen church. Constructed by Jesuits during the Ming era it was rebuilt four times since then and the latest iteration dating from 1904 is constructed in stone and includes a baroque facade.

Old Summer Palace:

Built over the 18th and 19th centuries, the old summer palace was where the Qing Emperors conducted state business, reserving the Forbidden City for ceremonial events. In 1860, during the Second Opium War, twenty foreign peace delegation representatives were tortured and killed. The Franco-British contingent led by Lord Elgin retaliated by burning the palace. Built over 800 acres, the complex was known for its gardens. The complex was so large that it took over 4,000 men and 3 days of burning to complete the job. Many pieces of art including sculptures and valuables such as porcelain, textiles such as silk, jade and gold objects were looted. Many of those items can be found in museums across the word.

Today a visitor to the complex will find a large collection of ruins, making for an excellent afternoon walk.

Beijing Ancient Observatory:

This Ming era observatory dates from 1442. It latter combined the astronomical principles and instruments brought by Jesuit priests to become a cutting edge facility. It is one of the most underrated attractions in Beijing.

Qianmen Avenue:

Directly south of Tienanmen Square you will find Qianmen Avenue. Leading into the square from the historic (and massive!) Zhengyangmen gate. This pedestrian street was once the most cosmopolitan of them all, with a tram running down its axis and heritage buildings flanking it. Today the street is a contemporary replacement of the original. Although not as pretty, come here to imagine walking from here into the Forbidden City, an intimidating prospect for any newcomer.

Bai Ta:

This Tibetan Buddhist is part of the Yong’an Monastery complex. It was built at the top of Beihai Park and offers sublime views of the surounding lake and residential Beijing. It is a stone’s throw from the forbiden Palace and is worth doing as part of that attraction.

Drum Tower:

Located north of the Forbidden City, this massive tower dates from 1272, during Mongol rule. It was rebuilt several times and served as the timepiece of the city until the coup of 1924, where the last Qing emperor was deposed. Today it offers a panoramic view of the city!

Conclusion

The Chinese capital is a great introduction to the history and culture of a massive country. Outside of a visit to the great wall, the standard fare during a visit to Beijing, the old city offers an unparalleled insight into the life of the average resident.