Banská Štiavnica – Slovakia’s Mining Mecca
The belle of Slovakia, Banská Štiavnica occupies a stunning geographic location. Nestled in the green hills of Slovakia, and almost untouched the by uncaring hand of modernity, it is one of those rare places on the eastern side of the Iron Curtain that has been able to escape unscathed. Like its neighbor Banská Bystrica, Banská means mine and in this case silver and lots of it! It is with this precious metal that the city built much of its stunning structure, much of which still stand today although some of it is half-dilapidated. This is most noticeable at the old Gymnasium, who’s state in indicative both of the decline in the mining industry and the religious turmoil that gripped Central Europe at this time.
Anyhow, I digress! If you visit any part of rural Slovakia make this a stop.
Table of Contents
- A Brief History
- What to do in Banská Štiavnica
- Enjoy views of the city from Nový Zámok
- Stroll Through the Cobblestone Streets of the Old Town
- View the Stunning Plague Column and Enjoy the Public Square in the Centrum
- Pay a Visit to the Mining Museum and The Hereditary Tunnel of Glanzenberg
- Become a Scholar by Visiting the Academies and Gymnasiums (Including the Mining Academy)
- Better Understand the History of the European Jewry
- Explore the Old Castle in Banská Štiavnica
- Climb up to the top of the Kalvária of Banská Štiavnica
- Head Down Into the Mines in the Open Air Mining Museum
- Day Trips
- Where to Stay
- Conclusion
A Brief History
Today, the town serves as a sort of museum city, preserving the heritage of those who came before. Despite this status, history and the town itself is still very much alive and accessible. For those who enjoy museums and cultural activities, this is the place for you.
Celts and the Great Moravian Empire
The Celts had a settlement at this location where they set up a mining operation sometime around the thirds century A.D but were displaced by the Romans.
The Slavs moved here in the following centuries and established a fortified settlement that became part of their Great Moravian Empire.
Kingdom of Hungary and the Austrian Empire
The collapse of Great Moravia, put under duress from the migrating Magyar people (Hungarians), would have the town become part of the Kingdom of Hungary, Slovakia being referred to as Upper Hungary. King Béla IV recognized the potential of the town giving the town Royal Privileges in 1238. This helped the town develop and attract a new skilled labour force, Germans. Known for their deep shaft mining techniques, they soon settled in the city forming a strong ties in the region that would last until the end of the Second World War (see Carpathian Germans). The town would become the lead producer of both silver and gold for the Kingdom of Hungary in the Medieval Era. It was also part of a “League of Seven Mining Towns” together with Banská Belá, Banská Bystrica, Kremnica, Ľubietová, Nová Baňa, and Pukanec.
In later years of the 16th century brought turmoil to the city. In these years the Kingdom of Hungary collapsed under Ottoman pressure and a major loss at the Battle of Mohács. In the years following Upper Hungary was subject to Turkish raids. As such the old castle was reinforced and the new tower (castle) built. This period also saw the city play host to the Protestant Reformation, and in fact it was one of its leading centers. Since Hungary’s old lands were divided between Austria and the Ottoman Turks, this meant that the city was now under the suzerainty of the staunch Catholic Habsburgs who did not take kindly to the new religious movement in their empire.
In the 17th century the town reached its peak technologically, by population and by wealth. This is reflected in the fact that in 1782, Banská Štiavnica was the third biggest town in the Kingdom of Hungary. This feat was achieved due to the diversification of the towns economy and the fact that technology was used to expand both the scope the life of the mines. For example gunpowder was used in the mines in 1627. This was the second time in the world, only beaten by Le Thillot in France. The use of these explosives made the mines deeper and more susceptible to flooding. To remedy this a new system of channels and reservoirs was designed to drain and store water from the flooded mines. A project of Jozef Karol Hell, Maximilian Hell, and Samuel Mikovíny, it was referred to as tajchy, a system of over sixty artificial lakes. The harnessing of the water also provided energy for the early phase of industrialization. In addition the famous Mining Academy, a trade school to help train founded in 1735 by the Slovak Samuel Mikovíny. It was the first mining school in the Kingdom of Hungary and a center of technological advancement in chemisty. This was supplemented the creation of a Forestry Institute founded in 1807 to harness the wealth of Slovakia’s forests. It has been called ‘the first technical university in the world’.
Austro-Hungarian Empire and the First World War
Despite its diversification, the city had experienced the decline of its mines in the 19th century. After long centuries of service, they had finally exhausted themselves. After the compromise of 1867, following the revolutions of 1848, the Austrian Monarchy embraced the dual monarchy and the Kingdom of Hungary once again ruled the land from its diet in Budapest.
No only did the crack down on Lutherans and their education hurt the town but the newly empowered Hungarians began to discriminate against the Slovak majority closing their gymnasiums and trying to culturally eliminate them. This would only end with the creation of the Czechoslovak state after the end of the First World War.
Czechoslovakia, Soviet “Liberation” and the Modern Era
The towns importance continued to be minimal in the Interbellum years. The Second World War brought a collaborator government in Slovakia and the extermination of the Jewry. Of the 400 Jews in town only 1 remain. The Red Army would cause some damage on their capture of the town in 1945.
Today the town is a major domestic tourism site, although its reputation continues to grow.
What to do in Banská Štiavnica
There is plenty to do in town, here are a few things to got you started!
Enjoy views of the city from Nový Zámok
Added as a defensive structure in the 16th century, this fortified tower now serves a city museum with displays including the mining industry and warfare.
It also offers fantastic views of the city! Probably the best views in town!
As you walk down from the tower and into the city you will be privy to equally impressive views from the different vantage points.
Stroll Through the Cobblestone Streets of the Old Town
In the crook between the hills you will find the commercial core of the old town, centered around St. Catherine’s Church and Kammerhofská street. This 15th century gothic structure with a green roof was commissioned by wealthy mining families.
A stones throw from it you will find the Banska Stiavnica Nativity scene as well as a public square beside government offices.
This is where Kammerhofská street flows downwards in an easterly direction past the evangelical church and town hall.
This is by far the most attractive street in all of Slovakia.
And the site of many of its hotels and cafe’s.
View the Stunning Plague Column and Enjoy the Public Square in the Centrum
Just behind St. Catherine’s Church you will find the primary public place in the city.
In the square you will find a few care’s sure but also much of the towns art galleries and museums.
At its center is a plague column that may be the best in the whole of central Europe. In the 18th century a plague wiped out half of the towns inhabitants and this massive monument commemorates the abatement of the disease. A strange fact about the baroque beauty is that the statue has slid 4.5m from its original position as a consequence of the frequent rains as well as the steep pitch of the road.
Pay a Visit to the Mining Museum and The Hereditary Tunnel of Glanzenberg
One of the most popular attractions in town, the mining museum is host to tunnels that formed part of the city’s first mine.
Nearby you will also find Glanzenberg, a drainage tunnel running under the main street that has hosted numerous famous visitors including Austrian Emperor Joseph II and Prince Albert of Monaco.
Become a Scholar by Visiting the Academies and Gymnasiums (Including the Mining Academy)
To find the educational quarter of the city, look for the baroque church, Nanebovzatia Panny Márie, a beige and white structure on the east side of the city, just off the main street Kammerhofská.
Here you will find the slightly dilapidated but iconic yellow colored mining academy, with its tin roof. This was once one of the leading centers of learning for chemistry applications in mining and its knowledge flowed out to the rest of Europe. It forms a large complex with the buildings around it, also forming the forestry college.
In recent years these have been repurposed by other schools such at the technical university in Bratislava.
Better Understand the History of the European Jewry
In the old town you will find the recently restored old synagogue of the city, a reminder of the progress made in Slovakia in its acknowledgement of the horrors suffered by the Jews who were banned from living in the city until the Jewish residence in mining towns was rescinded in 1859. This is reflected in their abandoned cemetery and chapel elevated in the hills away from the city. This crumbling cemetery could make for an interesting stop if you have time.
Explore the Old Castle in Banská Štiavnica
Overlooking the town on a flat ledge in the easterly direction is the old castle. It can easily be found due to the distinctive blue bell tower that adorns its gate.
The pentagonal shaped walls of the building are now home to a museum that can be entered for a small fee when you pass the gatehouse.
Inside the gates you will find the uniquely shaped gothic castle, one of the most interesting defensive structures in Slovakia. The religious origins of the structure is plainly visible where the square castle has a strange oblong piece jutting out. This is the original Romanesque chapel that was incorporated into the later castle. The building has been called by some “stone chronicle of the town“ and this is a name that fits. The structure has a long history and as the city grew the people of the city re-adopted their castle and made it a place worthy of renovation as well as worship. A full time castle-church if you wish!
If you do any museum in the city, make it the castle. Here exhibits ranging from mining to art make a comprehensive picture of the history of the city and its people.
If you follow the numbers on the tour map you will likely start on the bastion walls, where you will get a great view of the bell tower. These bastion walls were built to compliment and surround the existing structures, both a church and cemetery, at this location after the Turkish raids began to ramp up.
You will also get views of the new tower (Nový Zámok) in the distance.
Along the back wall you will find a small cemetery and the complex water well.
One of the bastion towers is also home to the exhibit on smiting and upstairs a collection of iron objects.
Inside the castle itself you will find a boatload of religious art, stone carvings and even carvings adorning tombs.
You will also find Austro-Hungarian era painting and family trees!
The highlight of the visit however is the collection of religious art saved from the Cavalry. Hopefully it will be returned one day but in the meantime this has allowed it to be preserved and to escape vandalism.
Just as an aside, if you look up at the castle you can tell that there is a large variation in the stones used to build the different additions to the original dungeon, inducing carved reliefs. This leads me to believe (unconfirmed) that a lot of the stone used to build it was borrowed from elsewhere.
It is possible to climb up the blue baroque monastery tower. This was originally a castle tower but was reconstructed in 1777 to make it a baroque bell tower!
From the clock-tower you will have the second best view in the city.
Climb up to the top of the Kalvária of Banská Štiavnica
A Calvary is a christian religious site that refers to the skull-like hill on which Jesus was crucified; hence those who climb it walk the Way of the Cross. Located opposite to the old town, to the north, it offers sublime views in all cardinal directions.
For those coming by car, come early as like everything in town the parking lot fills up quickly!
The ensemble of buildings dates from the 18th century and many individual structures can be visited on your way up. It is considered to be one of the most important baroque Cavalries in the former Kingdom of Hungary and one of the better ones in Europe. This is due to the number of stations on the climb up, displaying artwork. It was promoted and designed by the Jesuit order, who wished to suppress the protestant movement by developing religious art and architecture to contrast with the simplicity of protestant structures. Construction began after approval by the Archbishop of Esztergom, then a resident of Trnava. The cavalry was heavily damaged during the Second World War as the Red Army approached in 1945, and only pitiful efforts at restoration were attempted during communist years. Since 2008, the conservation of the buildings and especially the artwork has accelerated.
For those who have visited the castle, much of the paintings that had once adorned the chapels has been put into storage for their restoration and preservation. This is due to the damage incurred by both nature and by senseless vandalism or theft whereby much damage was done to the artwork.
Overall this cavalry consists of 3 churches and 22 chapels so it should keep you busy for some time. The complex has been home to many festive masses and at the time of its opening these were preached in both the German and Slovak tongues.
At the top of the cavalry you will find the main chapel as well as a small half wall that almost looks like it would have a defensive purpose.
Head Down Into the Mines in the Open Air Mining Museum
This outdoor exhibition and museum offers a tour of one of the former mine shafts dating from the 17th century as well as other exhibits on the surface.
Day Trips
There are many daytrips that you could do from this city. Here are but a few to get you started.
Banská Bystrica
Equal in importance, but differing in material, Banská Bystrica was a hugely important center for the production of copper and from it arose a beautiful and lively old town. It was also home to a massive anti-Nazi uprising.
Kremnica
One of the smaller mining settlements, Kremnica was no less important to the region. Its medieval old town is one of the best in Slovakia.
Svätý Anton
This Neo-classical/Baroque manor house south of the city was once home to a wealthy nobles. Now an obscure museum Svätý Anton is still worth a visit
Where to Stay
You could do one of two things. Either stay in town at one of the many beautiful Austro-Hungarian Era hotels and enjoy the cafe life as the tourists filter out of the city.
The second option is to stay in a Penzion, basically a local in on the outskirts of town.
These places are a great place to stay the night in nature and enjoy a local home cooked meal. If you have not yet tried traditional Slovak food then you should give it a try.
Conclusion
This is by far the prettiest town in all of Slovakia, and despite its small stature it will take you forever to explore its many nooks and crannies. Spend a few days here and loose yourself in a place that seems to be timeless, a throwback to a time where silver ruled the land.
